I have watched all of your SX4 videos. I can't thank you enough for posting these. There aren't a lot of resources out there for us SX4 owners. Your videos are super easy to follow. Thanks for putting the time in to produce and post these videos. I, and I am sure many others, certainly appreciate these!
Just finished this job. Thank you for the video. Hardest part was removing rust around base of spline. FWIW, Ended up soaking flange and all 6 nuts in white vinegar and baking soda overnight and most of the rust came off. Made reassembly very easy since nuts and post threads were clean Also ended up torquing each flange nut to 36 lb-ft (per Suzuki spec on 10mm diameter bolts).
I've just started working on my vehicles in the last year & my in-laws gave me a sx4 in the last few months. Your videos have been a godsend. With all sincerity, thank you so very much!!! I wish I found your channel before I had my tensioner, idle pulley & belt fixed by a mechanic. You would've saved me another $450 (I had the water pump done since he was already working the area). Godbless brotha from America!!!
Excellent video. Thank you. My seal still leaked as shaft was pitted. Cured by fitting a Speedi-sleeve 99139 35mm by 13mm and new seal 35mm inside, 52mm outside, 8mm deep. You will need a pipe about 36.5 - 37 mm inside diameter to drive on sleeve as one supplied is too short.
I need to do the same thing in my Suzuki Grand Vitara because of the leaks, so thank you for this tutorial 👍 I think it is just a detail but car should stay flat on the ground when you are pumping oil.
Once again great stuff that made the job so much easier. I had the same pitting but rubbed it down with #0000 steel wool then added a thin layer of Hondabond (RTV gasket) to hopefully guard against the new seal (passenger only) leaking.
My right rear axle was pulled out of the transfer case today by a Dodge Ram work van. Almost pulled my rear tire off too! I think the car is a write off. I'll find out tomorrow when I speak to the adjuster. I made a video about it. "SX4 Accident and Mac 26D lights" The only damage to the van was his hub cap! Yea!!!! Hub Cap. (Air bag too.) We are all fine. I'm really hoping that my car gets fixed. I miss it already. Thanks for the videos!
I was able to purchase the updated parts from Japan that solve this issue more permanently PN 27780-79J10 and 09283-35064 worked great on my 2012. Thanks for the great video.
What about the ring that you broke by pulling the rear axle, there is no need of replacement ? All the chip metal staid there and it didn't dammage the gears ?
Hi what is the sx4 like for corrosion n General on the underside, for instance suzuki jimnys tend to rot, is the sx4 any better would appreciate your views. Thank you great videos by the way
Had to perform this repair on my daughter's '08 Suzuki SX4. I chose to replace the axle spline (yoke) and the seal at the same time. So far, no leaks. Car has 103,000 miles. For those of you who are debating whether to do this repair yourself, or pay someone to do it for you........don't delay. The small leak from the differential may not look like much, but when you drive the car, the oil leak is blown back, toward the muffler, and could catch the car on fire.
Oil is much less flammable than diesel which isn't flammable at all, unless it's under extreme compression. (Put a cigarette lighter over oil and/or diesel, you'll never ever get a fire)
Why don't you show us front axle boot replacement video.....Ya i have seen rear axle boot replacement video but i need to ask whether is it same for even front axle?
Hey!!:) hope you’ve been well since we last talked, Ok so I have a question Hoping you can help since it looks like I’m about to do this job myself both sides of the rear are leaking. I have a question the Spindle? is the part of the rusted part shown on 4:55 mark?? Did you clean that Deteriorated rust with light sanding it ? Or you Left it alone? I want to know before doing this and putting everything back together. Thank you
Разобрался и сделал, оказался наружный на 52мм Обработал коррозию эпоксидкой , поменял масло, самое трудное было открутить заливную пробку ;-) должно продлить жизнь сальника.
Спасибо за видео ! Хочу тоже менять ,так же потёк сальник ,но точные размеры не известны внутри 35мм а наружный 52 или 55 или 62 . У меня SX4 Bj.2012, 2.0 DDiS 4x4 Magiar. И никакие страницы правильного ответа не дают. Так же как и на задние амортизаторы. Получается разбирать придётся наугад.
I had to pay 500$ dollars for mines at a mechanic.. I didn't have the tools to do the job myself. So I just bought the water pump and had them installed it... wasn't easy finding a mechanic that was willing to the the job also :( ..
Hello, I appreciate all your SX4 videos, it has helped me a lot. Are you going to do rear wheel hub bearing assembly? Do you know where I can buy these seals I need both left and right.
Hey thanks for the video. One question though... you mentioned the dealer told you to replace the axle shaft (part with the worn down metal) but you did not end up replacing it?
+Jared Urys from what I remember I just put the seal a little deeper, so it rides on new surface of them part that I did not change. Just a little tip.
could you tell me the part number for that seal or the proper name for the seal. my sx4 has the same leak on the driver side. I've watched all your sx4 videos. they are great thank you!
lt was a design flaw of the flange which would allow moisture to get under the outer edge of the diff seal and once under that part of the seal the trapped moisture would start to pit the metal which would create a rough surface which would then compromise that part of seal and allow for seepage of gear oil passed the seal. That is why they recommend replacing the Flange at the same time and not just the seal since the pitted metal surface can eventually eat away at the new seal as well, even though the new seal is an improved design. The improved flange has a raised lip and a plastic cover which helps to prevent moisture from making its way below the seal which will prevent the pitting/leaking issue. Suzuki was actually doing replacements of both the seal and the flange under warranty (at least in the U.S.) because this was a known issue. The new seal number is 09283-35064 (the video shows the old part and part number) and the new flange/driveshaft number is 27780-79J10. Here is a link as well that references the issue in a Technical Service Bulletin static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10087001-6903.pdf
Hi, I just replaced the rear left differential flange and the seal. the old seal was completely worn out and the old flange was barely hanging on, the retainer c clamp was also completely deteriorated inside the differential case. The new flange and the seal is in place but there is a lot of play. A mechanic friend is suggesting changing the side bearing might fix the issue, he is not sure. Do you know if replacing the side bearing is whats needed? Thanks in advance!
i think your overfilling in previous video caused this leak, just saying. one has to follow the capacities in the owners manual for best results. it says it only holds .8 litre total. That's not much gear oil
that hammer on that rubber seal too bud? lol. get a rubber mallet or light dead blow hammer. other than that great videos & good job keeping your SX4 running in top shape
He did it exactly how it says to do it in the Suzuki owners manual and that is to fill it until fluid starts dripping out of the fill hole. When the dripping stops, that's .8 litres. The gear oil comes in a measured bottle, and once you can fit any more fluid in the diff you will have .20 of a litre of gear oil left over in the 1 liter bottle. Also, the diff has an escape tube so even if it were possible to over fill (which it's not) as the gear oil warms and expands while driving the extra would just drain out the escape tube. That's what it's there for.
You can buy at at any of the online Suzuki parts vendors such as SuzukiAutomotiveParts.com Just keep in mind that Suzuki has an update part so the part number shown in the above video will no longer show up in inventory. The new updated/improved part # is 09283-35064. That's just for the seal. There is also an updated flange although you don't need to buy the updated flange, the new updated seal will work with the old one. The new flange has a new raised lip which prevents moisture/contaminants from getting beneath the outer edge of the seal. That' what was causing the leaks because the water getting under the outer edge of the seal was causing pitting of the metal beneath it which would eventually wear down the seal in that area and allow fluid to leak out.
You can find them on EBay. There’s a seller from Russia that has packages of two seals for $29 (USD) I can send you the link if you’re still looking for ‘em
Austin Wilkosz the link is to a supplier in Russia...due to Covid and borders being closed etc., they will take forever to arrive. I managed to find a set from Performance Imports in Kingston Ontario. They were slightly cheaper at $30 (tax included) They get them from a Suzuki dealer in Toronto. You can email Performance Imports at: sales@performanceimports.ca
That's usually a bad wheel bearing and that was also a somewhat common issue even with low miles. My left from wheel bearing went bad at around 23,000 miles. Was covered under warranty of course. All of the other wheel bearings on my car were fine though even 9 years and 50,000 additional miles later, all are still ok so apparently even though it was not uncommon, it was also a random issue, perhaps related to one batch of bearing that made their way on to some of the cars.
The oil filter does not need to be fixed. lt works fine as it is. The fuel filter does not need to be change and it is built in to the interior of the fuel tank. lt would be MUCH easier to have an external fuel filter installed on your car which you can change at regular intervals rather if you so fancy rather than having to replace the entire fuel tank.
Doesn't make that much of a difference actually. l've serviced the rear diff on ramps just like you see in the video then lowered the car back down and using the hand pump tried to add some more fluid to the diff once the car was level but wouldn't even take half of one pump more once the car was level. The amount that l filled it with while up on the ramps was as much as it would take.
I was working on changing the seals last night. The driver's side would not come out. Passenger side, easy. I even tried using a drift punch from the passenger side but there's the gear spindle shaft in the way. I'm at a loss as to how to remove it since it has the worst leakage. The video kind of skips over the process....... Any thoughts?
@@bryanbambrick4826 Thanks. I sold the car to my nephew. He never replaced the seal and destroyed the rear differential when all the oil leaked out. The replacement that he bought leaks just as bad, so I will make that suggestion......
