SV220 Dual band Narrowband Filter Review 

Glad you enjoyed it!

As soon as possible

I don't even have a tracker 😅 only my camera and cheap 100$ tripod 😬 I still try astrophotography though 💪

Thank you. That is high praise indeed.

Its wide enough for sure however you would have to place it closer to the sensor.

If the STC is coated for reflections it will not have any halos. I do not think I remember ever seeing any with that filter.

That is interesting. Do you know if there is a difference in the distance of your filter from the sensor? Also is there a difference in the f ratio between them?

@@TheNarrowbandChannel distance is identical both 55mm and both scopes are f5, weird, maybe the CC is better coated?

Simply put you have to treat your OSC camera likes its a mono camera and user very long exposures. This is a good thing though the mono camera can do it with greater resolution.

Ok, I'm using zwo 533mc pro (color), in bortle 8. With this filter (guiding aside), how long would one recommend my subs be?

Yes you get to take very long exposures with this which gets you way more detail in a single exposure.

I do not have a 294mc. I have the mono version which is an all together different sensor.

It does not. What it does is slow the frame rate so longer exposures can be taken giving a better view in the dark.

@@TheNarrowbandChannel so 20 seconds shutter actually becomes more like 30 seconds when using it? If I understand correctly 😬

@@bamsemh1 More like 300s exposures. But trust me that is a good thing. It's mean 10X as much signal in a single exposure without getting overexposed.

This hobby is a very gear hungry one.

Yes. Its a wide enough band pas.

I think what you need then is a mono camera. :) Hydrogen just about always overwhelms all other colors in space. Even Hubble which has 0 light pollution still uses narrowband imaging filters.

@@TheNarrowbandChannel oh that would be ideal... after getting an actual telescope instead of a photo lens, and after a good computerized mount to guide and dither, and after the filter wheel cause switching and refocussing manually is yerk, and after selling my car, my house... but I need to buy a car and a house before that :D

First never be sorry to write a comment. All feedback is good. It is how we learn. Second where did you hear that filter distance changes QE? I have never heard of this before and using different filter distances has never affected QE noticeably for me. Halos come from reflections of the filter. It is not an AR coated filter so it has them but like I said in the video you can minimize them by placing the filter such that it is defused enough to be less noticeable.

@@TheNarrowbandChannel to complete in details : a filter at the input of a corrector causes you to lose a more or less significant EQ, depending on its design and initial restrictivity. A filter is designed to filter the light signal at a specific, well-defined angle (with a margin, of course - the physics of optics and wave propagation through a solid). If you attack a filter with an unsuitable angle (before a corrector, for example), at best your filter will simply have a drop in its EQ, and with bad filters it will have additional aberrations (filter shift, signal fadding, etc.). - If there are halos when the filter is in the right place (close to the sensor), it's because the filter isn't perfectly designed, with halos generated by a small diffraction of the waves linked to its design, but this is to the benefit of a theoretically guaranteed filtered wavelength - yes, depending on the angle of attack, the filtered signal may shift a little too (a fairly negligible aspect most of the time) - antlia or nbz, for example, don't produce these halos, but they cost 2 to 3 times more than the others: / ) unfortunately we have to pay for quality :/ . However, using it as a corrector input will give you a result, and it still works more or less correctly until you put in a filter drawer. That's why brands have developed filters with adapted FD ratios, below FD3 for example for "fast" filters and above FD4 for the classic category, because their design and the deposits of the "filtering" layers are arranged differently in order to maintain the desired EQ and characteristics according to the FD of the instrument and the angle of attack on it.

Oh I am putting the filter behind the corrector not in front of it. Also light in front of the reducer will be less acute since the F number is higher at that point. So really if it was set up that way it would not be an issue. Also most of what you are talking about only applies to very narrow files in the 5nm and narrow range. Not for filters as wide as 6.5nm You can watch Cuiv the Lazy Geek, he has some good description of how this works.@@ShipmunksPix