These brake bleeder vac pumps are a great tool, even more so when working alone on cars. But you may find that they suck in false air around the bleed nipple, so I always remove the nipple and conservatively coat the threads with silicone grease, this along with an o ring or petrol pipe clip around your bleed hose helps stop false air entering the bleed set up. This I have found speeds things up no end and saves wasting alot of new brake fluid. If you have a particularly difficult brake to bleed, try bleeding from the caliper upwards, using a large syringe to chase the air upwards, which of course is really the way the air would prefer to go. Remove the excess fluid at the reservoir with another syringe.
You are one of the best assets in the SV community. Thank you so much for sharing your technical journey with us. I love how much you are truly passionate about learning to do so much technical stuff, and then also share it with all of us. You are a blessing. Hope you've been well =)
Thank you for a really good video that anyone can follow, explained step by step. And it's always good to see a lady working on her bike. Take care and ride free.
Thanks For this video, Done this to my sfv650 last week followed steps and worked like a charm, The brakes now have so much more bite to them and character especially under heavy braking conditions
Your videos are so helpful; I don't have an SV but the principles you explain are largely generic and apply to most bikes. The caution you noted about the differing thread sizes on the banjo bolts will make me check when I replace my hoses on my Bandit. Keep posting these straight forward no-nonsense and informative videos; they encourage others to tackle jobs on their pride and joy. Any ride out videos coming? Kind Regards.
Hey Paul, really positive comment thank you, knowing that people are enjoying the videos out there is such an incredible feeling. I really want to empower people to work on their own bikes, I think it is about knowing your limits, growing your confidence and knowing when to call in experts if you get in over your head! I have a Go Pro mounted on my chin so I would be happy to do some ride outs, Cornwall certainly makes for some scenic filming (if I can get it to stop raining!)
Hi! Thank you for your videos, keep them coming! No nonsense, plain, professional explaining, well done! I have a 2002 N, before i do anything on it, first thing to check your channel! Saved lot of headache already! 👍👍👍
Wow! What a lovely comment, thank you! You have made my evening! More videos are being posted over the next couple of weeks, I hope you enjoy those too. Thanks for watching.
On the back of this video I ordered a set of Hel race set up for my Hornet, was delivered last week. Laughed when I read the info regarding Suzuki using a different thread pitch in one caliper :) Fitted a Venhill rear line a year ago but was rather annoyed to find it a good 8 inches too long especially as it was supposed to be bike specific
Yeah I couldn't believe the damage I had done by using the wrong bolt, when I put the 2 side by side, it looked so obviously wrong, I just had not realised before I started!
I'm recreating the original style front on my 2002, on mine the brake line had been connected to the right hand side of the Splitter, reason no clue, so watching your video have now reconected the brake line from the Reservoir to the left hand side of the Splitter.....I change all bolts I come across for new ones from eBay and grease all bolts.....
Very clear instructional video - thanks. I've got new pads and lines for my '06 SV to go on shortly. Can you remember how long it all took, specifically the bleeding process?
Thank you, it didn't take long, the system will empty pretty quickly, and then once the lines are fitted its just about pressurising the lines again, could be done in 20 min, but if you like to take your time maybe up to 45 min.
Great video Tamsen, I didn't know about leaving the brake lever under tension overnight! Suzuki UK could use you to train some of their mechanics properly haha :>)
LOL, beat me to it. I was just going to comment that the front brake fluid looked a bit dark in the reservoir then you went and changed the whole lot. Was going to change to Hel braided hoses when I put on new pads in the spring so extremely relevant to my Speed Four. Good video. BTW, what brand are your levers? I need to get a new set for my Speedy. Cheers! Mike
+Michael Rench Yeah when I put the picture in picture to compare the difference in fluid it was quite dramatic! They are CNC levers, I prefer the long levers but I think they do short ones as well. £52 online auction. You can choose different coloured handles and adjusters. Tip: if you have adjustable levers, change the settings for maximum grip length when you are pumping the break, it will will take fewer squeezes!
Did it make much difference to the SV brakes? I've got a K4 SV650 and a K2 GSXR600 and the SV brakes are garbage compared to the gixxer ones. I've bleed them , used fresh pads and there's no air in the system but they are just really weak.
Big help thank you, I do have a 04' SV650 w/33k miles and brake lines are stock. I'm about to purchase braided lines, and the manufacture describing their lines show a 2 line system. Naturally I'm thinking, how do I go from 3 line factory, to a 2 line system.
I agree, once you see how it is done it is straightforward, but I had to look into how to do it when I first got the new lines. Have you bought/ fitted the brakes yet?
I finally have, I decided to go with Spiegler. Good reputation, decent price, and they are located close to me. I'm really looking forward to them, for my stock lines have 37k on them. I probably don't know how much they are worn until I change them out.
hi there so just in the stages now of the sv650 cailper, thank god i have videos and new parts ;) i was just wondering what did you do with new pipes when putting headlights back on or did you re arrange the brake pipes after?? thanks again grant
Hey Grant, Pleased you are getting on so well with it. I moved the brake lines to the correct position and then attached my headlight. I could have redone it after, but because the brake fluid had been renewed and the system had epic pressure through it, I didn't want to repeat the work again within a couple of days. Let me know when you get it all sorted!
Hi Tamsen, Thank you for your videos. I'am just replacing front hoses on the same bike as yours (2002, blue but speaking french only :-D ). Hoses are from Hel too but assembled in France and they seems very (too ?) long (Exactly as on your video). My question his : "how did you fit them between the fork and the (front) fairing ? What paths follow hoses ?" Best regards Jean
Well when I bought mine from Hel, I just specified the model bike I had and they sorted out the line lengths and sent them out. I guess if you wanted to try and make the brake lines yourself, you could use the length of the original lines as a guide, however, don't forget that if you do order the lines pre made, if they come with 2 sets of banjo bolts to check the correct pitch bolt to use!
Hello. It is me again. I love watching your videos. When I want to do something I go to your channel and find everything I need) I got a couple of questions if you don't mind) Can I use standart bolts if I buy only lines? It is pretty expensive in Russia to buy the full complect ( or kit. I don't know for sure what word is more correct ) And where is the sensor brake that responses for brake light or rear light? Thank you)
Hey Serega, great to hear from you. Cheap bolts do not always save you money or time. They are more more prone to fail when stressed and may need replacing more often. That said, the bolt thread and pitches will be universal i.e. M8 or M10 etc. So rather than going for manufacture bolts, I have gone for stainless steal or titanium bolts- they should outlast the bike itself! The sensor for the rear brake is behind the heel plate on the right hand side. I will post a link for a forum site that includes pictures to show a little easier. www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115376
hi there, ive been watching this video and decided to get some hell brake lines ;) love the look of it already, where did you get the holder at the bottom to hold the brake lines to the forks many thanks grant keep up the great work cant wait for video on the engine
+Grant Mason ah brilliant!! Let me know when you get them all installed. I looked up the part numbers for the holder, it is called a 'clamp front brake' part number 5926920F00 and the bolt to secure it is 0155006123, I found a site in uk pounds and another in euros, not sure where you are from but U.K. Pound cost wise about £9. Thanks for watching and new videos to be uploaded soon!!
It is the one that came as standard with the bike, although looking at the Haynes manual, it shows different cylinders across different models, sorry I can't be more specific. Thanks for watching.
Yeah there was a little resistance, but the thread pitches are so close in size to each other it wasn't dramatic. That is why I felt it was important to include this mistake, I didn't want other people to make the same mistake again. I am not sure what you mean by 'stay in kitchen' maybe if you picked your knuckles up off the ground and crawled out from that Neanderthal cave you are hiding in, you can join the rest of civilised society ;)
