A three-minute review of the Svarog Paradox Slug Mould. Interested in purchasing the Paradox or other slug moulds and tools? Check out my site at www.tatvcanada.com Music - Pop Tune by Audioautix
прикольные девайсы у вас, земляк. хорошо, что вы находитесь в Канаде, как и я и многие мои друзья охотники и стрелки. пересмотрю всё и отправлю ссылки некоторым из друзей-коллег.
For 10 GA? Or for 12? In 12 ga, I would be concerned about how tight that would be in the bore. They are intended to be full bore for the bore riding principle and to take advantage of rifling.
@@pacman10182 you misunderstand. Birdshot compresses. Normal slugs fit in the shot cup, may already be to tight for some barrels. This combination would be too fat to fit down the bore safely.
@@TATVCanada Rolled up Emery cloth will do the trick if you can't find a rat tail file small enough. Makes a big difference in the performance of the mold.
I'd love to see a 50 yard accuracy test with these! I know Fortune Cookie just did his and with separated wads they were spraying all over the place at 50 yards. Went from 2 in with the pressed fit wads, to multiple feet group with no attached wad. Though you are using different wads, with a different gun, so I hope you have better results!
It's Winter here and believe me when I say you wouldn't want to be outside shooting. Come Spring I will resume my work with these; expect to see a *lot* of testing this year.
After owning a few Svarog molds, I've found that they are actually kind of fragile. If you smack the sprue cutter open with a mallet, you will wind up with a stripped out bolt hole soon enough. The bolt that holds the sprue plate on is too short. After my first one failed I used a longer bolt for a while, that would grip a few extra threads, but it also wore out after a couple hundred pours. On two of my Svarog molds, I have drilled and tapped new holes for the sprue plate, using a full inch long bolt for the one that holds the plate on. I have over 5000 pours on the repaired molds, and they are still going strong. The core pins are a whole other issue. Keep the screw at the bottom snug, or you will be sorry. If you want your Svarog molds to last, don't use a mallet on them at all when you don't have to. Open the sprue plate with the push of a gloved hand. A 17mm deep-well socket slipped over the lever makes opening a breeze. All that being said, these make some of the best slugs on the planet.
I've never experienced any issues beyond the 'normal' loosening/backing out of the sprue plate bolt, but that happens on most moulds in my experience. That said, I definitely don't have 5,000 pours out of any of my slug moulds so maybe that's in the future.
The only problem I’ve ever experience was the wood knob drying and splitting I made a silicone mold and used jb weld to fill it and have not had a problem since
@@TATVCanada Yeah, I'm definitely getting commercial grade life cycles out of these now with more care. I average pouring between 1500 and 2000 Svarog Zveroboy slugs most weeks. I know I have over 12K pours on one modified mold now, and it keeps chugging.
@@elpatonego8392 I've had that problem on every Lyman slug mold I own, but haven't experienced it on a Svarog yet. The problem I have with the core pins is the steel bolt that holds the knob to the aluminum "nosecone." It only catches a few threads and can strip out if you have to pull too hard to free a slug. I check mine frequently to make sure they stay snug.
Winter is not a fun time to be outside here, so I haven't had the time to do the kind of in-depth experimentation necessary to definitely say 'This is better than that.' I will however say that the of the data I did get last Fall, the Paradox slug appears to perform better than the classic Lyman and Lee slugs most of us have used for years. Once Spring finally gets here, expect to see a *lot* of videos about my experiments with these new styles of slugs.
I use a green BRP-12 wad from Ballistic Products attached to the slug with a #6 3/4" wood screw. Using a 2 3/4" Cheddite hull, I use a nitro card over the powder, drop the wad/slug assembly in and fold crimp. 34 gn of Longshot will push this slug over 1400fps.
Vibratory. Usually I use crushed corn cob (it's larger, cheaper and cleans up faster), but I was doing some of the Svarog 'Italian' slugs as well and the ground walnut doesn't get stuck around the seating stem the same way the cob does.
@@TATVCanada you seem like an excellent candidate for powder coating given that they actually are intended to swage down the bore. minimum I would cut them with alox or 45 4510 to reduce leading.
Curious how well they shoot? dimensionally are they longer than your standard Lee keydrive 7/8ths? I wonder if they could be shortened slightly, if needed, with a copper or aluminum insert or something? I'm thinking for DIY Roll-your-own 1.75-2.00 inch Mini-shells.
They shoot quite well, of course the amount of accuracy you get depends on the components/load data used as well as your gun obviously. I am currently experimenting with 1 3/4 and 2" mini shells so you'll probably see some videos on those come Summer.
@@TATVCanada Awesome to hear. I'm a fan of mini-shells. I've always felt that 2-3/4 shells were a bit too tall for what a general purpose shotgun really needs. I'd think just under 2 inch shells that can be fed reliably would be the sweet spot. I'm just getting into shotshell reloading and seeing the wads I just don't understand why there's so much space taken up by those long shot cups, other than for the sake of fitting in the shell.
@@TATVCanada it does, copper, brass, all then are around 15-1700 f. need a steel mold if you work those metals. just researching right now, but thats what i have found out so far.
@@TATVCanada You can say that about a round musket ball, lead mould from a wrench socket, anything will fly. How accurate is it? How stable is it? If you dont know maybe you should do testing or send it to TAOFLEDERMAUS for real testing
@@TATVCanada have you accuracy tested them in smooth bore? I want a slug that isnt designed to split or expand for hunting. I want a solid slug for bear protection that penetrates
Have you ever had issues with extraction on the ‘special’ pin. I cannot remove mine at all and have to remelt into my pot. Have nearly broke the handle off the pin.
Yes, they are awful. SO fragile. If you don't keep the screw at the bottom tight, it allows lead to seep under the nosecone making release difficult or impossible. All the smoke and silicone in the world won't help. If you pull hard enough to make them release, you put undue force on the threads of the soft aluminum nosecone, and they will rip out. Good luck ordering a new pin. Lee Precision, while not as "elegant," makes much more sturdy and practical molds.