I thought people were joking when they said these things could shake the pictures off your wall. They weren't lying. LOL. I have them maybe at 40% volume, and it feels like I'm damaging the house.
I own the PB-13 Ultra. I love it but I have had to replace the woofer twice because the gasket or basket seemed to seperate, or something with the air flow possibly, that caused massive chuffing. I also had an amp burn out on me after only about a year of use. They can't be driven even close to their listed max potential. At least as I have experienced. I don't push them past nominal volumes or run them more than two hours, about 5 days a week. But regardless, they have a great warranty on their products. Their customer service was great too and they handled all costs for shipping out new speaker parts.
I bought a used PB13 Ultra a year ago. Amp burned out on me but thankfully SVS covered outside of warranty. How hard did you push it btw? I don't wanna ruin the woofer as it'll kill me to replace that out of warranty.
@@navid617 I think you might be okay with about 1/2 to 5/8ths of its max. I never went past that. My Onkyo reciever would be set at 72 out of 100 with the Sub set at like two or four under its max, plus the sub option on reciever at -6 or -12. Can go +15. I like crisp trebles and tight bass so I was pretty surprised that I ever had an issue, but the thing that did it was Pandora commercials...not even kidding. I would be listening to a song, then a Pandora commercial would come on at just a slightly higher volume and the sub would chuf when I was probably closer to 3/4 or more of the sub's total. It only takes one stupid hit for it to seperate. So, from there out, I never went past like half of its max. My Klipsch speakers can handle close to max on everything. I had a Klipsch Synergy 12 sub on the same reciever, running almost maxxed, in parallel, at the same time, both times the SVS blew, and they were absolutely fine. Either way, besides the hassle, I have been impressed with the clarity and precision of my SVS.
@@andrewl8524 Thanks for the detailed response. I only crank up my sub with Blu Rays, so hopefully it won't be killed by some shitty audio. It's often bad audio sources (clipped signals etc) that ends up doing it for the sub... like some of those bass boosted videos. Also running Klipsch with my PB13. :)
It is impressive,I watched a video about a JL sub and it had like full size amplifier and host said that its a midrange not the higher end but then there is the price difference,but this at that price is well maid,but padding or not still the JL is far better and it should be it's way more expensive
ЯЯЯ!!! в живую слышал этот саб и честно сказать, сути не понял - он подыгрывает, но не долбит, басс мягкий, нет резкости и резвости. Я работаю с ПРО оборудованием и там басс чёткий и конкретный, не слышал не одной такой домашки. Акустика домашняя такая же - звук не чёткий, плавающий, мягкий, без конкретики. Нравится только ПРО акустика
@@Slicknick24-7 Oh yeah i forgot they have that division as well. But I think from my opinion Rel subwoofers are the best for the the actual quality punchy bass experience especially for high end music listening. then the SVS subs are best for loud bass experience or mostly for movie best movie experience. Check this video. I guess it'll help you with that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rEz03XkcslI.html
doesn't no about home audio. but in car audio that peak power or max power rating is inaccurate or fraudulent. RMS Power is what we see and accurate ☑️ power rating & power output. most high quality car audio brands at today just put a rms power rating or burst power rating, no more peak power, just real world power
A) He did actually mention the RMS rating first (1500w RMS) but more importantly, B) peak power actually matters in home cinema. People only care about RMS in car audio because in car audio the primary purpose is to listen to music and the bass in music follows a pattern (or rhythm) and is continuous throughout the duration of the track. Whereas if you compare that to the LFE track in a movie, bass effects are not in a rhythm - they are random and not continuous at all. There will be a lot of scenes in a movie where the subwoofer is dorment and isn't used at all - in other words you don't need to know how much continuous power it can hold because there isn't a continuous stream of bass in a movie like the bassline of a music track. Not only that but frequency matters too. There's a lot of LFE effects that can extend to 20Hz and below and to go from 0 to 20Hz (or sub 20Hz) in an instant requires A LOT of peak power to do that, but that might only happen a handful of times in a 2 hr movie so it doesn't need to sustain that level of power continuously, it just needs that power on tap for when it needs it. That's the difference. In music the bass in continuous so it's more important to have a continuous power rating, whereas in movies that is not the case.
@@t.p.ggaming3884 I'm with you on this one. Yeah if he's actually telling the truth then it will beat the SVS at a lower price point, but I doubt it will be living room friendly, have bluetooth and app support and have a beautiful glossy lacqured finish. Two different markets/demographic of people and it seems he doesn't understand that.
Too bad they use chinese junks. I had a pb13 and had 2 amps to fail along with 1 woofer with normal listening and not many hours on it. Not uncommon with the 16 either.
