Very fast and accurate. I feel they needed about 40-60 hours of break in for best performance. Also with the plugs you can customize the sound for your liking.
22KevMac I have 2 PC4000’s. After I set them up and had a couple of friends over to listen to music. Both were blown away at how much it changed my original Paradigm S8 set up my old Earthquake 15” sub. It sounded like the S8’s were not even the same speakers! My buddy actually said “F@%k Y@#!” Loudly three times!😂. That was the biggest complement he could of given me. This was the biggest change my system has ever had. I LOVE them!
I already knew you were an excellent reviewer, but this is another video that proves it. I enjoyed how you took the time to show us both the response at lower frequencies from both the room RTA measurement plot and a sound level meter. Thanks!
Thanks man! It's obviously pretty room specific, but still gives a good idea of performance. I've been meaning to email you btw... I'll get in touch soon
the ultimax setup with the 6cuft box is significantly louder than the sealed configuration. the Dayton is very impressive for the price but as stated in this video diy requires some tuning. if you don't want to mess with it id say buy one. honestly though the 18'' Dayton full kit costs as much as svs 3000 series and realistically the 1200watt amp a box and an 18'' speaker for 900$ is a pretty compelling option. one of which few store bought subwoofers can compete at that price. like i said the enclosures do limit these subs it would be smart if they started selling ported kits I think even though the listed spec's are massive boxes people would still buy them. I built the 6cuft box for my Dayton 15 and am very pleased with the improvement over the sealed enclosure. but you most certainly need a lot of space for a box of this size. both are excellent subwoofers and realistically you cant go wrong with either. svs is about as good as money can buy for prebuilt home subwoofers and Dayton is offering a speaker setup that CAN rival the svs but its going to require work from the end user not the small sealed box that ships in the kit
Completely agree. The Dayton Ultimax 18" is once of the best bang for the buck subs on the market right now. If you have the room for a big enough box, they are killer subs. I liked the design of the SVS, and it really did outperform my expectations. For a manufactured sub, I think it has a lot of things going for it. I prefer DIY myself. My 15" Ultimax was taking a beating when I tried watching things at even moderate listening levels due to my large basement. My 24" I build is handling that much better lol.
@@LifeofBliss its really like comparing a modified car to a Ferrari sure you can make another car faster than a Ferrari but its still not a Ferrari. svs is like that, its out of the box performance, sure more performance can be had but if you want all the refinement and engineering that goes into a high end product be willing to spend high end prices. svs aint cheap, truth is they don't have to be. for what they are offering there are few competitors with equal offerings. like I said origionally the Dayton subs CAN keep up, but like a modified car, your gonna have to do the work, and also realize its resale will be very low relative to an svs sub if you choose to part with it.
hm, a sealed 500USD DIY sub vs a ported 2500 EUR (price in Europe) ID sub...wonder who will win😁But off course you get much more nice things, better finish, easy app, smaller footprint, SVS looks just great!
Diy subwoofer is actually 1000usd because you need amp. The problem here is that ultimax is sealed and svs is open. If you would go 18 then it could beat svs sb 16
When you tested the frequency response and output, the svs was firing down right? I'm assuming that helps vs the dayton pointing forward? The dayton in a ported box should be pretty similar I'm guessing. Definitely a better option price/performance. I'm always happy with dayton's performance/$
Have you verified the Dayton's amp has flat output in the 10Hz-40Hz band at high power levels? (volt meter/oscilloscope at speaker terminals shows the same voltage at 10Hz and 40Hz)
I haven't personal tested the crown amp, but others have done so. I don't remember them doing off until closer to 10 Hz or so. Not 100% sure, but I know they did well to at least 20hz, didn't start drooping until under that
You should get a Tascam DR-40 or something so we can hear those subs when they go low 👍🏼 my Audeze’s (headphones) are just getting teased at this point lol
Yea the mic is probably my weakest link at the moment as far as recording. Unfortunately I probably won't be doing any upgrades on equipment for a while as we have a baby on the way and planning to move later this year. Priorities...
@@LifeofBliss you should take in account that the PC4000 has a DSP and i am sure there is some EQ added to the subwoofer. Do you use an eq on the Dayton sub?
DIY will always be a better value, but not everyone is able or interested in that. Only EQ was done through YPAO on the Yamaha. Nothing else was touched to try and keep the playing field even. Which really they were all practically the same response until about 32 Hz. I tried to make it as even of a comparison as I could. Honestly the seal Dayton just couldn't keep up down low when the extended/ported tune was used on the pc4000.
Simply not a fair test. Sealed always has less output down low. Not to mention the size box. Or that the SVS used bass boost. Awe come on........ at $2,200 you could build 4 Daytons and still have tons of money left over, even after buying that amp new!
Wasn't supposed to be necessarily fair, just a comparison for viewers to get an idea of what it can do. I'm all for DIY, this was sent for a review from SVS. Not everyone is in the market to DIY their speakers. You would like my SI 24 inch sub builds on my channel 😉
Have a question on subwoofer placement. With a ported design with the port on the rear and a front firing driver, is corner loading preferred? Aesthetically it looks better in the corner, but should I corner load or go flat against the wall (with 8" behind clear of the wall for the port)? I know there's room gain by corner loading but what are your thoughts? TY
Well you can "corner load" a driver without the cone facing the wall. That just means it's placed in the corner firing towards the room. It will still get a slight increase in output in that position. "Corner firing" would have the driver facing the wall. I had to search to find that difference myself :) According to that, I corner load myself. Sub looks best in that area and it's out of the way. A little boost in bass is a plus. I wouldn't face the driver towards the wall though. You may notice some difference, but probably not a huge one. Plus you may introduce some negative effects such as muddied bass. Apparently there are horn-like effects to facing towards the wall. Personally, I like seeing the driver as well lol.
I'm going to add to this with how my subwoofer sounds in my room regarding it facing the wall or into the room. Currently my only way to get a flat response with my BIG subwoofer (see my channel to know which one it is) is too face it into the corner of my room. I'd prefer not to do this, but it's the only way to get the 70hz and surrounding area to sound "correct" If it was facing the other way I'd lose to much output probably because of the size of the enclosure and woofer being away from any surface to aid in bass reinforcement. Since the port on my sub is tuned to 17hz, bass above 30hz isn't really coming out of the Port much, if at all. But with all that said, I believe placement is dependant on the room as usual. If it sounds best in the corner, leave it there. My room just has weird things that hurt the bass, even with my low tuning, 25hz and below gets sucked out because of my closet. (Runs the length of the room, and could fit a couch in it...)
Nice Sub for sure but I think you can make better yourself having your skills, Its hard to judge these subs based on REW cause your room is put into consideration aswell, but I know measurements were taken from the same spot as you can see the same dips and peaks especially on the 40hz range. So a perfect world would be dual ported diy subs both connected through a mini hd dsp, Find the best placements through REW, phase align them and finally adding any EQ if any is needed at all. This is best done pre calibration on the Yammy and then let the calibration do its thing, REW and MiniDSP are like two peas in a pod 😎
Thanks man, and I agree. DIY will definitely give you a better bang for your buck. This was just a cool design and wanted to review a manufactured sub since not everyone is into the DIY thing. And yea I tried to give a fair comparison, but my room definitely had a role in some big response dips. I have a mini DSP HD waiting for me when I build the other 2 boxes for the 24s. That'll be fun to dig into and see how flat I can get everything!
YES!!! 🤘🤘 It was hard pulling the 24 away for a while to get a good feel for this sub, but I was honestly very impressed with the output! It really did walk all over the sealed Ultimax 15.
Not even in the same ballpark. Would take several of these to match 1 sealed 24. More videos coming out soon on it, my schedule is freeing up to work on videos more
@@LifeofBliss awesome! That's one of the best ways to see if they're able to play reference without bottoming! My diy 15 inch only gets to 108dbC in the lowest part. I believe its 8hz
