Nice idea in certain applications but for most..... I think they have just fixed something that wasn't broken. Earth rings are cool too, great video matey.
Quick tip. When using an adjustable spanner the fixed side should take the strain. Thus fixed side on left to undo and on right when tightening. Does 2 things. Reduce slippage. Reduces chewing. Nice idea on over priced gland
7:19 'give it a twist to splay out the armourings' - 'Houston we have a problem, pause video and DO NOT start filming again till I get it to look like it goes on first time with no problems'
Just seen this, amazing gland so well thought out. Then just looked them up on my CEF account, £11.50 + VAT for a 2 pack?!?! Its a real shame, I'm an electrical contractor who does a lot of outdoor lighting installs and would happily switch to these if the price would come down. Its worth noting a standard IP external gland will not leak water when installed properly and I get a pack for £2.50.
Just seen that, they do come with those wiska earthing nuts though, which again from CEF sold in 10s work out at £4.19 + VAT for 2. That leave's £7.31 for the glands (11.50 - 4.19), still pricey but I guess it depends how much you want those extra rubber seals. As you say, I'm not aware of water ever getting in through any of my old glands.
Forget trying to seal a connection box by the glands alone as soon as it's opened next time the clips are f'd and it will leak, so best just use gel and normal glands
It's fixed with the wiska clip, you can just push them on, I've always thought they are a bit jank, but on a concrete post like that it can be very useful
According to my NICEIC assessor The inner sheath of the swa cable needs to be inside the box and not insde the gland. Petty I know but that's what he said, sharp edges and not the correct type of mechanical protection??
The inter sheath should ideally extend slightly past, even if only by 2-3m, the internal part of the gland. I don’t suppose anything will happen if not, but it’s good practice.
Very thorough and informative video, with an amazing amount of product knowledge, but the inner casing (housing the conductors) should always pass through the gland by a minimum of 10mm before being stripped.
You can buy a pack of 2 CW20s for around £2.50, the cheapest I've seen these are around £12.00, they are just to expensive & they are not even that quicker to fit. If you fit a CW gland properly with a fibre washer, you will never leak, Good idea, but to expensive & to bulky.
look good but at twice the price of CW glands not sure how popular they will be, seen this sort of thing before and they don't take off and fizzle out until you can't get them any more.
I find the earth bar grub screw is sometimes too short to tighten against the gland on 25mm with reducer ( the other piece that comes with the earth bar which is utmost annoying, I tend to put my own 4mm brass bolt in)
question for you why is all the 3 core swa colours brown black and grey the phase colours in ireland we use brown blue and yellow green is that not available in uk as we are not permitted to use phase colour as neutral it has to be blue thanks gavin .ps great youtube channel keep it going
For some reason most cable manufacturers here assume 3core cables will be used for three phase installations, really they should offer both three phase and single phase colour schemes, but from what I can tell that's rare.
@@stevehirst536 good to know, looks like they mainly only do small sizes (up to 4mm²) though. Looks like Wickes have a similar offering. If you're willing to shop online there's a few wholesalers listing single-phase 3 core armoured (swacable & armouredcable list several sizes, for example).
Easy to install the first gland, however installing the adjacent gland is a slower process due to limited room for spanner turns. I note you didn't include that in your video.
Thats a good shout. My thing about glands is always how to find an easy way tighten them and tighten the lock ring. Ive just invested in some lock ring spanners from ebay. Lets see how well they fit in to a rotary isolator! Although i quite like the earth bar instead of the lock ring. I would hope for a bit beefier mechanical connection though with that little brass screw, and would it fit in standard branded isolators and not just wiska box
CW gland, bottom entry, and a drain hole. Job done. If this was cheaper then I'd use it. I use dozens of wiska boxes, but on revisits they show signs water ingress.
Mmmm think I would have left a little bit more of the bedding on that cable. Good glands but if your were fitting loads of glands the cost would too big compared to a CW
Those wiska boxes are over priced garbage, they’re made from cheap brittle plastic, let in water, have limited room from the stupid back design and don’t even get me started on the wall bracket, just like in the video they arnt suitable to hold the box and easily fall off, iv seen countless box’s hanging from walls. absolute trash.
Nice one Joe, would still go for an swa compression brass gland which is also much easier to install than the traditional variety, and gives as good as... if not better/stronger seal. Tightening those plastic glands, na, easy to score / damage/split etc - alot of heavy handers out there. Good vid all the same always nice to see whats hot on the market. Steve sparks.
Used these before there awful. Once installed they look good however the thread often breaks and the outer plastuc scores when trying to tighting. On top of this there way overpriced. Stick with the classics.
I’ve been in this game for 35 years and I still prefer using a hacksaw , I tried the ck armour slice but thought it was overrated and I can still strip a cable quicker using a hacksaw , as for the glands , they look ok but are expensive if you fit hundreds a year like I do....👍
Great Vid..been tempted to use them, and will give them a try now...here's a hack another Sparks taught me, instead of spending £3.00 to £5.00 on the wiska Earth bar, the Demo Guy said when cutting the SWA there's always 1 strand of Armour not playing the game! ...if you make it 3 or more strands next to each other and push it through the gland and sleeve it up with Green & Yellow & connect to ongoing CPC...money & time saved, it saved me money on a project with 20 odd external garden lights
@@efixx it always test well on my projects as you can use your Armour strands as your CPC and all strands are bonded together swirling in the cable length as it should have good continuity through out the length of cable as the strands are tight together ...as if the screws on a earth bar have not been tighten etc.. you will alway have a better connection with the strands as the Should be going from point A to B...BTW I'm just a Sparks who works on what works for me & if my testing values are Tip Top ...Job Done Regards Tony
Hi Joe, thanks for the video - I see mixed reviews. Would you drill a drain hole? Would you drill the box to fix onto plugs in the wall etc rather than use the mounting bracket supplied? What about the IP rating then?
Personally I’ve used these and I don’t like them, they look incomplete, so used to seeing a nice neat shroud cut on, also they’re pretty much the same speed to install as a normal gland, don’t really see the point in them tbh.
As an Engineer and not an electritian, should there not be a nut at the end of the fitting, after the earth block. It may just be me, but it seems that the only thing holding that whole lot in place is the thread at the bottom entry of the plastic box. If there was a nut at the end of it all, it would take more of the weight and any force.
@@efixx Good morning. When I did my apprentice (1972 to 78) water resistant boxes were not as advertised. Filling a box with Plumbers Mait was the way everyone then made boxes moisture resistant. I have some boxes I fitted in my garden twenty-four years ago that are still water tight. Mait is a putty like substance that does not go off, it remains soft and in my garden has worked for twenty-four years.
I fail to see how manufacturers of cable are able to continue to make cable without a dedicated earth conductor. Putting earth tape on a coloured conductor or relying on the armoured sheath is well out of date.
Literally the only way these are justified is if they saved on one step of the terminating process and actually saved time/money. Almost all normal applications don’t require the termination to be IP 68 rated, so maybe in very few circumstances they’d be worth using on an oil rig in the North Sea maybe, then again they’re probably not marine rated or Lloyd’s approved 😂
I work in the water industry, all of the SWA glands we use are E1w. this is to stop the water that can track up the cable in the armour section of the cable. The difference is a second compression rubber seal under the brass cone that when tightened down seals around the inner sheath. Are SWA going to or are doing a replacement E1w gland in the same style as these?
Thanks for the info - we’ll take a look at the e1w glands as we are sure most electricians aren’t aware of them and they could be useful In some applications.
The inner sheath should pass into the enclosure, the sheath should extend 10mm past the base of the gland. This, as is, only has 1 layer of insulation between the earth and any conductor. Its like taking a TFE into a socket but stop short with the outer layer of insulation, and then just have the wires going in. Why not do away with the outer layer and run single cores everywhere... joking on that last bit.
@@efixx Good question. The end section of thread will have a female bush on it when doing a conduit installation, to stop the single core becoming damaged through vibration. Here the rough edge on the gland can cut into single layer and earth-out. (not always rough but not always smooth either) For the sake of a few mm of sheath left on it makes the installation a lot better. I repeat that you would not do this in a metal clad socket or the back box of a sunken socket.
Did that whiska box fall off when you tightened the gland? 😉 Lol. I like these, but I have fitted hundreds of normal outdoor glands with shrouds, for £2.00 a go, they're fine if you know how to do them correctly. Like others say, need to be cheaper really, as not much gain per cost ratio.
sds drill most times blows back of post apart lol then have to nip round and repair lol 😆 Best to use a bisch blue drill bit 💙 👌 😎 and make sure post is secure 👌 🙌 👍 bit iffy fixing to post Napit tech said make a note on EIC that posts were assessed to be of solid fixing
The original one ..so man things wrong ..sad thing is they take the meat away from the billet making it a real pig to fit and disconnect Where you grip the main body it’s not even the width of a spanner or more importantly pipe grips ......the lock nut too is to thin by x3 . When holding the lock nut you usually have to hold it at an angle as the consumer unit or box has a flange so making contact minimal ....all basic faults and lousy designing ....I’m 65 now but it’s been a bone of contention for 40 odd years.....this s one gripe in my industry ..there are many .....so simple to design well if given the right grounding Rant over.....I have enjoyed my chosen path ....the banter is great ..ELECTRICIANS CONTROL THE WORLD. ....LITERALLY .. BACK TO THE DARK AGES WITHOUT US 😀😀😈😈😈👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧. Ps we need to drop the Chinese crap coming in. Buy British 🇬🇧🇬🇧
If I was installing wiska boxes for garden lights I would use the storm gland. The cost difference is reasonable. I like the fact that the swa is 100% protected from the elements. In theory going back to a storm gland in 2 to 3 years, then the armouring should be ok and it should be easy to remove the gland. Going back to a CW gland it's normally rusted to hell. CW shrouds typically deform in the sun. When the storm gland enters the wiska earth bar there is plenty of lengh on the thread, a CW thread just passes the bar and when I tighten the slotted screw it's just on there. For a garden job on display to the customer the glands look the part. Nice demo.
I love all these new things............but when are CU manufacturers going to address the knock outs issues IE lining them up with the main switch and the RCD also how abot including the galds we might need and I mean all of them your going to have to but them any way and so what if there are some left over anyway sorry to hijack your presentation Joe
These storm glands DO NOT FIT 3 core SWA CABLE!! There is no room to push the fitting together once the brass ring is over the armoured strands. Massive design failure! Had to revert to standard brass glands.
Not entirely true, I fitted two SWA 3 core 4mm2 side by side into a 308 combi box yesterday using the 20s storm glands. I did note during my research that the maximum armoured wire size is quoted a 1.2mm, maybe your cables had thicker armouring?
Poor install. The white inner insulation on the SWA should be taken into the box past the brass gland threads, inner cores could rub on the edge of the gland. This would be a code 2 non compliance on an EICR. Classed the same as basic insulation entering a metal box with no grommet.
no way is it C2, doubt it is even worth a C3, it is rounded and smooth so no chance of any abrasion damage, not any different to singles and a brass bush, or would you C2 that as well? lol
I agree, I'd have took the bedding past the brass on the gland but the bedding does not meet the criteria for a sheath like a twin and CPC, which are essentially double insulated. I wouldn't code it on an EICR if no signs of damage and let's face it damage is highly unlikely in that scenario.