I drilled 2 holes in the shroud exactly where the PSU vents are located. I used a 1.5" hole saw. This way only the PSU breathing vents are exposed, but everything else (the rest of the PSU, terminal block, wires, etc...) is still fully protected by the shroud. It worked very well. Also, I used a Sunon fan instead (the next best/quietest thing to a Noctua) since they use MAGLEV bearings. The Sunon is a 60mmx60mmx15mm (same dimensions as the stock fan). The model is MF60151V3-1000U-A99, puts out 17.6CFM, and 21.3dBA. If you cannot find Sunon, CUI Devices has a re-branded Sunon (they're identical in design and specs), model CFM-6015V-130-213, which also uses a Magnetic Levitation bearing, puts out 17.6CFM, and 21.3dBA of noise.
Just watched this video, so I'm late to the party. Drilling holes was my first thought also. It's not rocket science. Even if a guy doesn't have a hole saw, a bunch of 1/4 inch holes drilled would be far better than nothing at all.
After your recommendations for the hot end and main board fans I did that upgrade, thank you for the tips. My hot end fan was LOUD. Those fans made the printer almost silent, and the power supply fan is the noise maker now... I need to do this still. HOWEVER. I will be prepared to take the machine down, mark the exhaust area with some careful measuring and marking and take that shroud to my drill press. That is some insane design / manufacturing to not provide for exhaust air in the shroud. File that one under what were they thinking....
The fan you removed was not designed to move a lot of air, the shallow angle of its blades are for higher static pressure so it can push air through that little exit gap. The more angled blades of your replacement fan are for increased air flow, the trade off is it has lower static pressure.
Yes, you also see this with watercooling set-ups on the PC. You need more static pressure to push the air through the radiators, more so than passing air in and out of the PC case. And PSU manufacturers are also big fans of of these chunky fans. I suppose it's to move the air down through the heatsinks, wires, capacitors, etc, so that you don't get any hotspots...
Just did the other fan swap and was looking to replace this one but couldn't find out what I needed! You're one step ahead man. Thanks for coming in clutch yet again!
I love you man. Swapped all my fans and now it's dead quiet. Was blasting music to cover the noise so I could print overnight. Bought the printer after seeing your vids and being too cheap to buy the Ender 3v2, and just finished my first roll of filament. Probably the best $200 I've spent in a long ass time. Thank you for your your vids on this printer.
That winsin psu legitimately sounds just like the stock. Its defiantly moving more air though. I did put the psu cover on to see if it quieted it down and that was a very clear no. Still, for the price and how much more air they move. Worth it.
i'm doing these changes with an, as yet fully assembled printer. i figure it would be easier, and increase familiarity with components. thanks folks! graze millione
Did this tonight. Just like you said in your video, the PSU fan you linked isn't much quieter. Possibly a little bit but I was hoping for a bit more silent. As I said in the other fan video, those 40mm RGB fans made all the difference in the world! All in all with all the fans done I'm happy. Thanks for your videos!!!
@@3DPrintSOS Just an Update. I ordered the Sunon MF60151v3-1000u-a99 12v fan as suggested in a redit thread and it is actually quieter. I wouldn't say silent, but noticeably quieter than stock. Burnt my hand soldering the leads on though, and its an expensive fan. LOL Personally, I think just leave the stock fan. Its never going to be silent and still move air.
Could the shroud not just have a square cut into it at the vents relatively simply? So still allowihg the cable management and enclosure whist allowing the air flow?
Thank you Fedor for another great Aquila video, I went with the Winnsin fans also just the non RGB version and my hotend fan makes a loud whizzing noise when I first start up and then quiets down after... Ugh but I will be buying the 60 mm fans because that's the only one I have left and it is noisy little bugger! Thanks Again!
You’re not the first to mention that with the non rgb fans actually. I wonder if they are slightly lower quality or just some bad luck. Sounds like they died in the same way as the stock fans.
@@3DPrintSOS guess I will try the RGB ones, they're cheap enough. Have you used or seen the custom firmware for the Aquila? Its great and gives you alot more menu options...
The motherboard fan is controlled by the parts cooling fan. That's why it wasn't coming on. Set the parts cooling to 50%, the mother board fan also runs at 50%. It's a bad system especially if you are printing something that needs minimal cooling because now your motherboard isn't cooling well. A common fix it to rewire the fan to the 24v input going to the motherboard and that way if the printer is on, the fan is always going, albeit at a constant 100% so that will be louder.
Loving all your videos mate! Awesome resource bank for Aquila/3d printing beginners. Can I just ask, did you flip your glass bed over? Is there a benefit to doing so? Mine is working well but I've already got plenty of scratches across the whole surface
Sometimes I like a smooth finish on the bottom. And you can flip your glass for that. Just make sure you clean it really really well and it will stick great.
On my aquila the main board fan actually followed the part cooling fan output which made no sense to me so I changed it to the same output as the hotend fan. Now it runs when ever the machine is running just like the hotend fan. I also nodded both the psu and main board fans to 92mm noctua so you don't even notice it on all the time
Hard to say. They changed manufacturers for an unknown amount of machines. Some say theirs is 24 some say theirs is 12. Mine was 12. You’d have to check.
Hi Fedor. The link to the Winsinn RGB fans are for the 4040 24v ones. That might have been intentional, or perhaps the link no longer has the 6010 12v ones? Looking again, it might just be that you didn't have a link to the 12v ones?
So two things happened. One, they changed the fans in their listings. And two. Voxelab changed their power supply. So the only way to know if you need a 12 or 24v fan is to take your apparat first and look.
Interesting that the original PSU fan is a 12V variant, considering that the PSU itself is 24V. This means that there's likely a 24V-to-12V step-down converter in the PSU, just to power that fan. If this is the case, I wonder if one could find the converter circuitry and tap directly from that same 12V output to power the hot end fan and the mainboard fan (with 12V Noctuas for example, without having to buy a separate step-down converter). The reason I mention tapping directly from the converter's 12V output (for those 2 other fans ONLY), is because you will want to avoid the PSU's temperature-regulation-fan-switching circuitry from trying to control the hot end fan and mainboard fan. Those 2 other fans should not be turned off/on based on the PSU's cooling behavior.
Installed a 80mm Noctua fan (needed to print out new psu cover and feet risers) Can't hear it at all. Need to stick my hand under to make sure it's actually working With the Noctua and with Winsinn RGB's in the hotend and mainboard, the part cooling fan is by the loudest and drowns everything else out. Thinking about doing something about that one too. Might need new fan shroud
Hey Fedor just a heads up, when I upgraded my PSU fan today on my Aquila X2 purchased 12/2021 I noticed it has a 60x10 24V fan installed and not a 12V one like the one in your description. Be careful folks, I didn’t notice until after I plugged in the wrong fan and released the magic smoke 😳
I was just about to comment the same thing on my X2, too - luckily I caught it before the magic smoke released! Thanks again to OC for confirming and to Fedor for helping all us newbie Aquila owners make the best of this machine!
and just an add-on to this too - don't bother with the the 24v Winsinn fan for a 'quieter' X2s power supply fan either - it's even louder than the stock one hehe - just wasted an hour pulling it all apart and putting back the original fan (glad I didn't cut it off). Guess will have to do a PSU mod now to install a 12v one :)
@@3DPrintSOS yup plug and play on the main controller.. I think a cover over those terminals would be a good idea because there is 120VAC in there or possibly 220VAC in Europe.. I would mod the steel cover or use a printed PLA cover to at least cover the exposed wiring..
I know this is an "old" vid, but its exactly what I need...I was about to buy these fans, but all I can find are the "Dual Ball-Brushless" fans.. you say we shoulnt go with the brushless, but with the Dual ball.. but amazon call these fans dual ball-brushless so? ... Also, wondering if a 6015 would be a better option? thanx for your help "WINSINN Dual Ball Bearings 60mm Fan Brushless Cooling 12V 6010 60mm*10mm"
All the fan listing have been changing so often, it’s hard to keep up. Haha. A 6015 would be good. A direct replacement. These aren’t totally silent though. You could do a 120 with a printable adapter to go full silent. :)
Great content. I'm total amateur to 3D printing so your content has been very helpful. I've been watching all your videos on this 3D printer. I have one question. Am I missing or overlooking something? I ordered the 24v Hydraulic fans for the PCU fan replacement. When i went to swap, i noticed the stock fan was 12v. Did i get the wrong fans? The RGB fan swap was perfect those were both 24v. Is there a preferred replacement fan for the fan on the side of the hot end? Sorry, that was more than one question.
The supplied link took me to 24V fans...is that correct? I haven't taken the psu apart, but I would have expected 12V fans. I know Amazon and its affiliats change the contents of a link from time to time.
@@3DPrintSOS Yeah, I wanted it to breath. I think it may be louder, actually. I should have done a before and after. Uploading a vid of how loud it is right now. Will link when finished. About 87% uploaded now. Wow, it just went 100%! Please excuse the workbench clutter. lol Here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gkWNkLIsXhE.html
On your video about changing the fan in the power supply instead of leaving the shroud of wouldn't it be better to mark the exhaust slots on the stroud and drill some holes and then you can put the stroud back on with no risk of any shock.
You are more than welcome to do that. In fact, if you are worried at all, I think you must. In my case, there’s no risk. I’m the only one doing work on my machines that are all in enclosures. it’s very rare that I need to move the machine and I don’t put my fingers there when the machine is powered on. so no risk here.
It’s a super close fit. I have one installed on my “orange” printed and the fan touches something inside but you can still get it to close and the fan blades still spin. With that said, it doesn’t feel clean. If you want the noctua in there, I’d print a cover with better spacing.
Well done...keep up the good work. The issue I have with Winsinn and a lot of these Chinese fans is they don't publish any of the spec's. CFM, dB's and in most applications involving 3d printers the all important static pressure! Even if they do some of the published spec's are suspect. Also giving access to the power supply vents (noticeable difference in the cycling of the fan) after printing a new PS shroud off of Thingiverse with the vents exposed. Even better performance and increased duty cycle with a 80mm fan. Beyond me too why a lot of these manufactures design a enclosure that defeats the cooling design of the power supply case. Promoting poor cooling, reducing longevity and maybe reducing noise very slightly as the only benefit. Without opening it up and giving the power supply the ventilation it was designed to work with is not smart. A 60mm pancake fan isn't capable of generating enough static pressure to overcome those blocked vents efficiently.
@@3DPrintSOS I am totally in agreement with you and that was my main point. There is no way the stock fan with blocked vents could produce enough static pressure to cool efficiently with almost no space to vent. Why they go out of their way when designing that shroud to block the vents is beyond me. Some quick calculations estimate a efficiency gain of 35% by unblocking the vents. I guess when they copied the Ender 3v2 design they just copied that fault exactly. I have done some testing on a Ender 3v2 with the vents opened up 60mm and 80mm fans. IF you are willing to do a few additional mods the right 80mm will be the most efficient in cooling with the least cycles was my other point. However just freeing up the air flow and and adding a better 60mm fan like you did provides a large noticeable improvement with the least amount of effort.
I'm totally blind and got two of these printers now, and one is modded with fan shrud with winstion blower 4010 and the other fan, two z motors, next the dirct drive when it comes in, order the 6010 fan and printing out the cover. once I mod the one, I might start modding the other its all stock and now I know what I'm doing I can level and print without even needing a bl touch like on the other unit. Thanks your video helps out a lot. Now if I can figure out how to get Idea Maker to work on the blasted thing, the G files are all screwed up, anybody made a .printer file to inport for the voxel?
Congrats on getting all that done while being totally blind. You’re amazing. Would be neat if you keep one totally stock and just keep it tuned. That way, you can compare all the mods to the performance of the it stock.
@@3DPrintSOS I think I'm going to do that, just finally figured out why my idea maker files wasn't working on the stock, had to reset the x and y back to 0.0 was useing voxel maker since it was at the time only one that I could use with a screen reader. Just found out two days ago that I can use Idea maker, and dang, the printing right now after fixing my centering issue is way, way different then voxel maker g files do. useing Octo Print to be able to go into the machin and change any of the code helps a lot. Might still change the fans on the new unit, just to make it a bit hush hush :P Thanks for your vides. Now if I can find some dan stl files of full detail in and out of tesla cars and the truck I would be happy, already printing out the 1/48 scale of the Sn10
I have no electrical training so this might be a really dumb question, but instead of swapping the wires in the clip, could the fan just have been flipped?
The label side of the fan has _some_ intrusion protection (i.e. from loose cables). The rear side is all open and moving. Swapping the wires is the better choice and it's a quick fix.
Thanks guys, sometimes the simplest things can escape me, but looks like there's no better way than what you did. Thank you for these videos. I am just getting into printing and am watching everything I can
If the wires to the connector are opposite to the current fan would it not be quicker and easier to invert the fan when afixing it to the base plate? the wires being opposite would just have the fan running the opposite way so just flipping the fan would fix this.
The fans you linked are 24 volt and in the video you state 12v. Are you just running the 24 volt at a lower voltage since the airflow isn’t critical without the shroud?
I just received the Aquila X2. I ordered fans when I ordered the printer. I just opened the power supply and the fan is 24v. I had ordered 24v fans for the hotend and 12v for the power supply. I know this video is for the Aquila, but is the X2 different? Does the Aquila have a 12v power supply fan and the X2 has a 24v? Just asking before I send these fans back. Thanks
@@3DPrintSOS I took a photo of it. It is CCHV Model: CHA6024RL-15C / DC 24V 0.10A. I am building the printer right now and will listen for the noise. I will update you. I'm also scared to update the cooler fans. They look like they are in there really good and I am bound to screw something up. Thanks for your response and of course your videos! Ron
@@3DPrintSOS Quick update. Powered it up and the power supply fan doesn't seem bad at all, BUT the cooling fans sound like there is a drone hovering next to me.
Oops. You are right. Sorry about that. I can’t find them anymore. Looks like they must be sold out. Might be a good idea to just go Noctua 60mm and print a cover that will accept the wider fan. amzn.to/3EDiDlK One of my custom machines uses these and they have been running for years with zero issues.
As you mount it without the shroud, and having more openings, It would be better to mount the fan pulling air out of the PSU instead of pushing in?, I think the fan mods are the first I will do to my aquila as soon I got it, I need silence.
Is there or are there advantages to using the dual z axis drive? If so which one would be the best for over all use. The belt coupled or the stepper driven? I have learned alot by viewing your videos. Thanks
Hey guys! I just swapped the PSU fan for a quiteone. I wanted to test it, to see if it worked, installed correctly but after 15 minutes of max heating the PSU fan is still inactive can I somehow trigger it turn on? I am not sure if I am frying my PSU or not... 😮
Thanks for the great video. I am finding it very difficult finding a reasonably priced supply for the fans in Australia. $60 for 4 fans is a bit steep plus postage. Still looking....
@@SenZubEanS No sorry. I could get fans that were 24db and louder, but I was after those that were less than 20db to make sure that they are quiet. But they are either not available in AUS or too expensive. Let me know what you find.
I tried recently, and ended up just printing a new housing to fit a 120mm Noctua. I'd recommend that over messing about with smaller fans. That said, opening up a PSU is dangerous and should be done by a professional if at all.
Both links to these fans statae they are both brushless, and the comments say not to run more than 12 hours. Do you have a link to the other ones you can run longer?
Some say the non rgb are lower quality. Make sure when you are looking these up you check how long they are rated to operate. Some are only 12 hour fans. So if you have long prints, they can fail.
There is no way I wouldn't alternatively drill the holes and reinstall that cover plate. There's simply no upside and all downside by leaving it off instead of drilling holes in 5 minutes. Do know, that if you ever sell that printer with the exposed power supply connections YOU could be held liable for the future owner being shocked. That is a dangerous modification to say nothing of the increased fire hazard. Anyone picking up this printer will almost certainly have their fingers under the outer bottom rails, and picking it up on the left and right side, probably the most common direction is asking those fingers to go right into that power supply connection space.
I appreciate the concern for my safety B. Seriously. Just like I mentioned in this video, do not do this if you’re uncomfortable with it. I am not only not selling this machine, but also, no one besides me is going to touch it. Thanks though. I appreciate it.
“Do know, that if you ever sell that printer with the exposed power supply connections YOU could be help liable for the future owner being shocked.” That’s a bit dramatic, at least in my very personal opinion, but I don’t think I’d be held liable. Just saying. I’m not a manufacturer and don’t provide guarantees or warranties. If YOU took something off YOUR machine and YOU got shocked, blaming that on me via my RU-vid video just makes you a puppet. You’re not a puppet. You’re a very smart person that does research and makes decisions for themselves. Like me. We’re similar in that way.
@@3DPrintSOS If I bought your machine with wiring exposed, there's no need for me to "take something off my new machine" to expose me to the dangers you irresponsibly passed on. Product liability, even for sales of used items has significant legal precedent. Being that you do not have a law degree, you will want to error far on the side of caution, including getting a signed As Is purchase agreement, and ideally documenting the risk in it. There's a reason UL Certification would not be passed without that cover over the wiring. Liability is not restricted to only manufacturers, and there is an implied warranty of merchantability that can be called into question on used sales. From; "Strict Liability for Sellers of Used Products": "Resellers who do not repair or maintain used products, nevertheless, have a duty to warn buyers about product-related dangers or problems. In Sell v. Bertsch (1984) the used machinery seller was found to have no duty to repair a 40 year old rolling machine that subsequently injured a buyer's employee. But the defendant was denied summary judgment when the court ruled that the reseller's possible duty to warn the buyer about the dangerous operating features of the used machine was a jury question." I'd stick to 3D printing and leave the law to lawyers and always, always, recommend the highest level of safety to your viewers (not one here, but was a research assistant to one).
I truly envy your imagination. The story you've envisioned so clearly of you buying something from me (allegedly without me disclosing the danger of my personal modification) followed by you powering on your used, as-is, machine and then moving it, not by grabbing the top of the machine, but rather placing your fingers under a half inch gap! That's wild. Especially, because you'd know from assembling the machine that the cover wasn't present...I mean, at that point, you should just stick a fork in an outlet. It sounds like you'd listed to that advice as well. Preposterous If you want me to "stick with 3D printing and leave the law to lawyers" you should consider being a storyteller. I think you'd do really well.
Very nice comparison... The question is now why Voxelab doesent put quieter fans in from the start and covers 15 bucks more??? Must be chinese thing I guess.🙄
They are likely cutting all costs to keep the price as low as possible. Mostly to undercut the Ender. Which they did. Must be a similar scenario to when one of the larger airlines cut out olives from their salads but in return saved a million dollars annually. Haha
My motherboard failed within the first 2 weeks, i think it was just a dud. Got a replacement from the manufacturer and it has been chugging along now for 2 days since I replaced it. Will update if it breaks again
Hi 3DPrintSOS.. I have another problem and sorry I am can't talk to you on the discord, But you know I having a issue to do with Discord at this time anyway! Well, this is the new problem, I got myself the extra fans the extra tools and soldering iron etc. to redo the printer where the thermistor cables from the old original plug had to be soldered together with the new thermistor cables as the new thermistor cable I brought did not have that small white main board plug fitted on the cable end. So I cut the thermistor cables and managed to solder the two pairs of the white cables together and had to cover the join area with electrical tape as the shrink plastic tubing I had was not small enough to shrink down over the fine white wires. So that was done, I then changed out the main board cooling 40 mm original fan with a new brush less fan and just took out the white plug and plugged in the new fan. That all was fine and working I even checked the cables inside the main board from the plugs and connectors were all in and not loose. I re-closed up the main board cover and put back the screws then routed the cables back outside the underside of the printer so no problems with crushed or trapped wires or cables! Then here is the problem, All of it working But the Extruder motor will not work now? When telling the system to auto load the filament, it heats up fine the hot end But the extruder motor does nothing when the temperature for the lading of the filament is reached? I cooled the printer down and unplugged it and carefully turned the printer over and unscrewed the control board screws and checked all the wire connectors and white small plugs and all were fully in no loose ones. The white Extruder motor plug on it is fine and still in and so is the small white one on the board. So why does the extruder motor not now work? Any Thoughts of what is the problems? Thanks for your great videos as normal. if you can do some more on the step by step checking of the connectors and wiring of the main board later on that be great help to us Newbies 8 )
Hmmm can you move the board in the move settings in the menu? You can also try plugging in a different motor wire and trying to move the motor. Just to see if it’s the motor or the wiring.
@@3DPrintSOS After I installed the winsinn fan it seemed to be louder than the original fan so I put the original fan back in. Are there any other brands that you would recommend for me to try.
Strange. The PSU looks as if the fan should be blowing OUT, i.e. if mounted as on the Ender 3 Pro, it would push out the hot air near the top and that sucks in fresh cold air via those vents at the bottom ... The way it is mounted here seems pretty inefficient. Even if the fan is set to blow air in, you'ld then want the air to exit near the TOP at the opposite end of the supply, not via those vents which are at the bottom in this orientation ... Then again, it is all metal, so just having the fan circulate the air inside, may be sufficient to then have the complete metal casing act as a heatsink.
Yeah, when I took it appear I was a bit confused. My guess is that these don’t need much to work perfectly. So, as long as there is air moving, it’s likely perfectly fine. I’ve seen these work fanless after all. Either way, when you take the shroud off, this fan moves plenty of air.
@@3DPrintSOS not a bad idea. Are the stock fans very loud though? If they are, then I will probably end up putting the fans on immediately because I will have the printer set up in my room. Also, I subscribed to your channel. You have a lot of very helpful videos!
I just have some spare good 9cm fans from the pc and want to use them... But maybe, ye just order the 6015... It would be nice maybe to take also the motherboard outside together with the psu, dono how much easy it is
@@3DPrintSOS is there a way to measure the actual dB difference? Because your values make it pretty confusing. Plus most fans are rated at certain CFM and dB so we have no reference for your new values
Of course there is a way to measure it. I don’t have access to a decibel meter though. There’s no values though, it’s just equally turned up some so you can hear the sound better when your listening to the video. I guess you’re looking for a more scientific answer and this vid is super casual. :/
Dang, now I gotta go catch up on some Leno and admire his car collection. I did just see he got a chance to test the new Tesla Model S Plaid. I’ll check it out. Haha.
