Ender 3 V2 Near Silent Mod / Quiet Fans Upgrade

Подписаться 10 тыс.

Просмотров 68 тыс.

50% 1

A step-by-step guide to upgrading the Ender 3 V2 to use ultra-quiet Noctua fans. This upgrade will make your 3D printer barely noticeable when running.
Please consider subscribing, turning on your bell, sharing, and commenting.
James Moody made a great point by saying the following:
"Looks good, word of caution with the PSU cover make sure it's printed out of something that is safe, the PSU is in a metal case for a reason as this will help to stifle a fire. Do not use PLA as its flammable if making the PSU cover use PETG"
.STL Files:
drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
Supplies Used:
Voltage Converters (Buck) - amzn.to/47Ht8Cu (The tiny ones are unreliable use these)
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
Tools Used:
Mico Crimper Tool - amzn.to/3sxYLx1
JST Connector Kit - amzn.to/3eqhGS7
Solder Station - amzn.to/3pu6BWt
Brass Sponge - amzn.to/3suzJii
Solder - amzn.to/3HhZLtj
Hot Glue Gun - amzn.to/3Eo9Y5u
My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List -
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
Upgrades in order of importance:
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3wuaq1Q
Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR
G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6
E3D V6 All-Metal Hotend - amzn.to/3zcu3wo
Adaptor E3D V6 to the Ender 3 V2 mount - victor-bared.myshopify.com/pr...
Compatible blower fans for the mount above - amzn.to/3tuKfqm
M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy
Install Video of E3D V6 - • E3D V6 All Metal Hoten...
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
Voltage Converters (Buck) - amzn.to/3vZN56W (The tiny ones are unreliable use these)
How to install the quiet fan - • Ender 3 V2 Near Silent...
Dual Z Axis Kit - amzn.to/3AVYAzx
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I...
Detailed parts & Jyers firmware install video - • Ender 3 V2 Assembly, U...
Thank you for watching!

Наука

Опубликовано:

6 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 257

@jamjampoiness8309 2 года назад

Hey Victor, this is awesome. People like you really help the community. I will definitely be doing this upgrade over the coming weeks!

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Jamjam, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Your Ender 3 V2 will be whisper quiet when you complete the mods. Best of luck!

@nn-hx8oe 2 года назад

@@vbared Hey man, i hope you can reply to this, recently i burned something in my ender by making shortcut with the hotend fan cables, now after fully replacing the hotend and fans, none of the fans are working (2 of the hotend and the 1 on the motherboard) but the printer works just fine. I saw online someone said i could try to keep the fans always working by connecting them to the power supply, is this possible? if i connect the black and red cables of the hotend fan where the other black and red cables are in the power supply this wont explode or something? thanks in advance..

@kenstanley6929 2 года назад

Cleanest install of upgraded fans I've seen yet. And I've seen several. Nice work..

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Ken, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Best of luck with your projects!

@pawel7318 2 года назад

It's also the calmest one 👍 I would like to ask about the buck converter you used. It's described as one that can handle 23V input max. Is it not a potential problem ?

@vbared 2 года назад

@@pawel7318 Hello Panel Biel, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Thankfully, I haven't experienced any issues due to exceeding the max input voltage by 1. The ones I purchased from Amazon were a 10-pack some of which were placed into service on September of 2021. No problems as of yet with any of them. Their compact design is what I wanted. Use whichever version of buck converter your comfortable with. Best of luck with your mods!

@miked9959 Год назад

Hi, I wanted to thank you for the video. I followed your guide and performed all the upgrades. It was a fun project, and everything turned out great. The printer is very quiet now, and I haven't had any problems. Thanks!

@vbared Год назад

Hi Mike, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad everything went smoothly. Nothing better than a quiet 3D printer. Best of luck with your future mods!

@Fantastic_Plastic_Designs 2 года назад

Love this I couldn’t wait to get started on this as soon as I saw your video today I started printing the parts before I even ordered the hardware which hopefully is coming in the next two days my ender drives me crazy with its fans

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Gavin, Thank you for commenting and your kindness. You won't believe how quiet it will be. Hit me up if you have any questions. Best of luck with your build!

@SHarris64 2 года назад

Great videos man, thank you. I just bought an Ender 3 v2 (my first 3D printer) and I’m loving the upgrades that you’ve done. I’ll be working through them as I learn to print and to do the mods. Again… many thanks 🙏🏻☺️

@SHarris64 2 года назад

I’ll also be doing your minimalist double fan upgrade at the hot end. I also want to do a direct drive upgrade to the extruder. Do you a video and/or files for the mounting bracket to move the extruder? Thanks. ☺️👍🏻

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Stephen, Thank you for commenting. You just purchased the best 3D printer for the money that can be easily upgraded to perform like $1000 3D printers at half their cost. Let me know if you run into any 3D printing questions so I can save you time and frustration. Once you're all upgraded and tuned up 3D printing will be as easy as loading your model on the SD card, pressing print and waiting until it's done. Congratulations on getting into this amazing hobby, you'll have a blast!

@Arthur_54 2 года назад

hello, best video ever seen to make the E3V2 quiet ! :D

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Arthur, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The stock fan noises on the Ender 3 V2 was unbearable for my family. Best of luck with your mods!

@larryfroot 2 года назад

Excellent job, clearly explained at an excellent pace. Thank you.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Larry, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Best of luck with your upgrades!

@larryfroot 2 года назад

@@vbared Thank you Victor. I am actually waiting for an Ender 3 v2 to be delivered! I did have an Anycubic Mega but it developed multiple issues and rather than sink more money into it, I did some research and came across Creality. I love your minimalist fans mount BTW. I hope I can print it off OK with only one object cooling fan. Can't really complain. For the price it's obvious that sleeves are going to be rolled up and wires crimped.

@DerUnbekannte Год назад

it's so quiet now :) thanks for the stls

@vbared Год назад

Hello DerUnbekannte, Thank you for commenting. You're most welcome. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your other mods!

@kgftw Год назад

With my printer now located in my room due to complaints from family, I have no choice but to do this upgrade to be able to sleep lol. I thank you for the process, today I swapped the mainboard cover completely, for one that can hold an 80mm fan. Tomorrow I will do the one for the PSU. I am using be quiet fans for extra quiet.

@vbared Год назад

Hello KGFTW, Thank you for commenting. This upgrade will give you and your family relief, for sure. You'll hardly notice it after the upgrade. Best of luck with your mods?

@dkgolfnut Год назад

Awesome tutorial. Well done and very helpful

@vbared Год назад

Hello Dennis, Thank you for your kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

@5t1300 Год назад

Great Video; excellent detailed explanations!

@vbared Год назад

Hello Keith, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I have a whole series of upgrades for the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and CR10S Pro V2 to share what I've learned to save others time and frustration. Best of luck with your mods!

@bielespolet4388 2 месяца назад

Great video, thanks for all the info!

@vbared 2 месяца назад

Thank you friend, I'm glad you found value in the video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

@goliat17120 2 года назад

Salvation ! very good work ! Thank you so much for sharing ! I love ! I will follow you very closely!!!

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello goliat17, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Best of luck with your projects!

@euroriderdk Год назад

Great video

@vbared Год назад

Hello Euro Rider, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods!

@warfare313 2 года назад

Hey Man, really appreciate the vid. Not the best production, but all the info is awsome. Leaving the zip file with all the stl is such a bonus. Keep up the good work. I just got my Ender 3 V2 3 days ago and already planing on the mods, plus changing both fans on the heating element with noctua 4020, just printed the fang to make the upgrade. Your vid will help me a ton changing the MoBo fan and PSU fan. Thx!

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Juanfri, Thank you for commenting a words of encouragement. My camera work and lighting definitely needs improvement. Any advice on gear or video techniques would be greatly appreciated. Best of luck with your projects!

@jakeh8366 2 года назад

What fang file did you go with? I've found plenty with dual 4010s, not many that support 4020.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@jakeh8366 Hi Jake, I found that the stock Ender 3 V2 fan assembly is extremely efficient and quiet. I did create a fan assembly that uses dual 4010s modeled after the stock Ender 3 V2 parts cooling duct. In my opinion the extra noise from the second 4010 wasn't worth the gain in cooling for me. Link to that video below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TJxpiLG73dM.html

@XCF33t 2 года назад

Nice video! Thanks!

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello J Y, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Best of luck with your projects!

@AlexSwan Год назад

As previously stated, this is the best video on this mod. Re PETG vs PLA… I’m actually thinking I will directly modify the original PSU cover via hole saw and also dremel additional air vents. Not sure how hot the PSU gets, but I’m a bit extra cautious now.

@vbared Год назад

Hi Alex, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I've been running my two Ender 3 V2s without issue since doing this mod on them. The small stock 12volt PSU fan was loud and ran constantly during prints. The big fan runs for a bit and cools the PSU so much that the PSU cycles the fan on and off during prints. The transistors are bolted to the aluminum PSU chasis so it's essentially one giant heatsink, doesn't get hot at all with the big fan. Best of luck with your mods!

@AlexSwan Год назад

@@vbared Thanks Victor, that does sound like one could get away with PLA as well... seeing that none of the transistors are actually touching the printed cover and the cooling will be improved. See how we go... modifying the metal cover is pretty straight forward too. Cheers

@vbared Год назад

@@AlexSwan Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of experience with PLA. What I would check is flammability. Take a piece of filament outside and light it to see if it behaves like fuel. The SUNLU black PETG doesn't stay burning when lit.

@AlexSwan Год назад

@@vbared OK wow, that's a big difference then. PLA loves to burn and will keep burning down to nothing. OK unless I'm gonna get into PETG for this, I will rather modify the existing metal housing. Easy enough to do. Cheers

@Rancid_Ninja Год назад

I printed these in pla+ and it's been over a year no issues

@user-ih5nn1we9g 2 года назад

The loudest sound is produced by the turbine - fan of the model. That's what it needs to be changed in the first place , naturally by printing and installing before that a double blowing of Crows , or Briss fang Ender3 v2 V4.4. On Fang Ender3 v2 V4.4, you can connect 2 SUNON 12V fans to the circuit in series. And also sequentially you need to connect 2 12V SUNON fans to blow the hotend and do not need any lowering modules, which by the way can fail and a plug is formed in the radmatope of the hot end

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Александр Персов, Thank you for commenting and valuable feedback. I learn new things from people like you in the community every day. I appreciate your contribution. Best of luck with your projects!

@patricijaskraba4066 Год назад

Thank you for the detailed video. I’m wondering why you used two buck converters? Most videos I’ve seen use the second one only when they change the hot end fan as well. Is the fan speed adjustable after doing it this way?I’ve also heard that you shouldn’t plug the the motherboard fan back into the same place but screw it into the hot end terminal?

@vbared Год назад

Hello Patricija, Thank you for your kind comment. I did upgrade both 40mm fans from the stock 24v Creality ones to 12v Noctuas. Since making this video I've eliminated both the buck converters for a more reliable series wiring of the two 12 volts fan. I made this diagram to help you understand how they are wired. All 5 of my printers are wired this way and running reliably going on 2 years now. Having a few buck converters can come in handy for other projects or like in the case that your power supply fan might run on 24 volts. A few people have reported that their power supplies had 24-volt fans instead of 12-volt. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A0vZgcqS16njSt77VM5OC3fgPrFb6xpo Enjoy your weekend :)

@AlexSwan 2 года назад

Legend.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi Alex, Thank you for commenting and kind word. Best of luck with your noise reduction mod.

@AlexSwan 2 года назад

@@vbared Thank you! This gave me the confidence to have a go at it. Cheers

@Rancid_Ninja Год назад

I did a noctua fan on my psu but some random brand brushless 24v on my motherboard so I didn't have to add any additional components. Still a ton quieter

@vbared Год назад

Hi Chrispfankuch, Yeah, I hear you the stock fan setup is crazy loud. Switching up any of those fans for quieter ones will improve your sanity.

@SpencerKaup 2 года назад

I also did an 80mm fan for the mainboard, and did a 4020 fan for the hotend.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Spencer, Thank you for commenting. I agree the big 80mm fan is the way to go for the power supply. Quiet with lots of airflow. The 4020 for the hotend is a better choice as well. Best of luck with your mods!

@SpencerKaup 2 года назад

@@vbared although the buck converters you used are not rated for 24v... Many reviews say they blew up after a bit. But I loved how you wired it and the housing! Other than the bucks, you did a great job

@fjpdu625 9 месяцев назад

The best video, I should take your methode because it's doesn't take lot of space and it look professional, However it is a lot of work. Thanks for your video it going to help me a lot. I think I going to mix up your video and the Kelpy 22 one 😁.

@vbared 9 месяцев назад

Hello fjpdu625, Thank you for the kind comment. Yeah, it is a huge time commitment. I broke it down to different stages and did over a few days. This could have been a 3 part video. Send me a link to your remix I'd love to see a new take on it. Enjoy the silence once it's done :)

@fjpdu625 9 месяцев назад

@@vbared Thanks, yeah when it is finished I will send you 😉.For yet, the biggest problem is the fact that I need to print all my part in advance(i only have 1 printer) all the more that I going to add the CR touch at the same time.

@fjpdu625 9 месяцев назад

@@vbared An other question, can I print all the piece with PLA or will it melt ?

@vbared 9 месяцев назад

@@fjpdu625 Awesome, thank you. The CR-Touch will allow you to use the super light weight G10 Garolite as your build surface, it's a game changer. No more scrapping, stick glue or tape needed to get parts off or to stick. amzn.to/45PYGpl

@vbared 9 месяцев назад

@@fjpdu625 I use the SUNLU black PETG for everything, it isn't flammable and holds up to heat way better than PLA.

@samirjaffer1351 Год назад

Awesome video Victor! Just to confirm, the reduced airflow CFM from the 4010 noctua fan on the hot end can be neutralised by using thermal paste on the heat block etc and by using a Spider V3 hot end? I would like to keep the oem look but the noise is driving me insane as the printer is in my bedroom and I regularly do 30 hour prints so don’t want to reduce the efficiency of the cooling. Thanks!

@vbared Год назад

Hi Samir, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I haven't tried the Spider hotend but can tell you for sure that heat creep is a non-issue if the heat break sleeve that fits into the heatsink has a thin coat of thermal paste. One other thing that is needed is a fan bracket that channels the heatsink fan's airflow to the heatsink. The stock hotend assembly of the Ender 3 V2 works flawlessly with the Noctua fan and thermal paste. The original Ender 3 with the little metal box cover does a poor job of directing the airflow. I highly recommend that this type of hotend bracket be upgraded as well along with the addition of the Noctua.

@samirjaffer1351 Год назад

⁠⁠@@vbaredthanks for the fast reply! My printer is the Ender 3 V2 so you’re saying the stock hot end assembly with a NOCTUA fan and thermal paste in the correct places will be all fine? With no other modifications? Thanks so Much!

@vbared Год назад

@Samir Jaffer Yes, the Noctua, and thermal paste on the stock Ender 3 V2 plastic cover works perfectly. Keep in mind that will need either a buck converter to reduce the voltage from 24 to 12 for the one Noctua or you can buy 2 Noctua fans. One for the heat sink and the other to cool the control board, just wire them in a series like the picture in the link - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A0vZgcqS16njSt77VM5OC3fgPrFb6xpo

@narf444 2 года назад

thank you for that awesome video. i changed everything according to your guide BUT my PSU fan has indeed 24v (Ender 3 V2). Is your PSU cover somewhere in thingiverse / is there a remix that has space for the buck converter, too? i already bought the 80x20 (12v) fan, so my options are limited

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Narf444, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. Meanwell must have changed to a 24v version at some point, both of mine have the 12volt fan inside the power supply. This link should have the files you need. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14DkcnrhTMqislPwqzmDAUNyQAtijmMfC Tiny buck - amzn.to/2YK5pUw Use these buck converters linked above, that are super tiny and will fit anywhere. Just make sure they get some airflow from the fan it powers to cool it down. Best of luck with your mods!

@Rancid_Ninja Год назад

Mine is 12v as well, odd they would change that

@greenvspurple1 Год назад

Hey big boss, I am preping this mod right now, and I have a question for you. What size screws are you using for the mod? Specifily for the PSU support piece and ball feet?

@vbared Год назад

Hello WARjen, Thank you for commenting. I just took a look at the model the screw is M4 x 8mm long and 4mm t-nut. The little L bracket support piece uses M3 x 6, you will also need M3 nut, and washers. Best of luck with your mods!

@pasqualedinaux1574 8 месяцев назад

First off : thanks for the video! Then the question : The yellow wire in the psu fan is for the RPM speed signal, isnt that needed to cool the power supply more/beter?

@vbared 8 месяцев назад

Hello Pasquale, Thank you for the kind comment. I didn't use the yellow wire because there was no place to connect it. If your power supply has the sense wire connection point then use it. Best of luck with your mods!

@SneekyFab 2 года назад

So maybe I missed something but it doesn’t look like the psu fan had to be run through a buck converter. Is the stock psu fan 12v?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Soren, Thank you for commenting. You're correct the PSU fan is 12 volts. There are two buck converters in the video one for the control board fan and the other for the heat sink fan. Best of luck with your projects!

@FergalByrne 10 месяцев назад

Currently halfway through doing similar on a brand-new Elegoo Neptune 3 Max, just replacing the main board and PSU fans took it from 68 to under 50dB. Replacing the part coolers with 5015’s next.

@vbared 10 месяцев назад

Reducing the noise was important to me. Those stock fans are crazy loud. Are planning on running the 5015s at less than full power? I'm sure those can put out a lot of air flow.

@AZWildk4t 2 года назад

@Victor Bared have you thought about registering on Makerxyz? It would be awesome for me to request you to print the PSU grill as I only have 1 printer and it's busy printing my B737 Throttle Quadrant parts. I did the hotend housing that i purchased and it works great but having a quieter PSU fan would really reduce the noise.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi AZWildk4t, I haven't but let me check into it. Will message you once I'm ready.

@AZWildk4t 2 года назад

@@vbared I just uploaded to see what it would cost for the "Ender 3 V2 Silent PSU Without Grill" print. $42 using ABS and $65 for PETG. May be a way to make some extra cash to buy more printers 🙂

@Michael-Martell 6 месяцев назад

Noctua has the 24v fans now. Would there be any downside to running those and bypassing the need for Buck converters?

@vbared 6 месяцев назад

Hello Michael, Thank you for commenting and the wonderful news about Noctua's 24 volt series of fans. Eliminating potential points of failure and simplifying upgrades is the way to go so in short, yes, use them.

@sebastianstachurzewski5078 2 года назад

Great project, thanks. In the STL files you have shared, the PSU Main is not separated from the PSU part 2, but as a whole large element. I have a big request, could you please share the PSU Main STL file as the first item without merging with PSU part 2? Thank you in advance.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Sebastian, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Great catch, I didn't realize that the original mesh it was remixed from was still there. Redownload the files and the Main should be fixed now. Best of luck with your projects!

@vbared 2 года назад

This one should work. Not sure why this gave me a hard time. Let me know if it works for you. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14DkcnrhTMqislPwqzmDAUNyQAtijmMfC

@sebastianstachurzewski5078 2 года назад

@@vbared Thank you very much, now it looks like everything is fine, PSU Main and PSU part 2 are two separate models. I'll be printing later. Thanks again.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@sebastianstachurzewski5078 It's an awesome upgrade. The other solutions I've seen to address the noise and improve airflow either didn't work well or looked poor or both. The squash ball feet absorb all the shock and look super cool. Best of luck with your upgrade!

@PeckNizzle 9 месяцев назад

I don't suppose you know if racquetballs will fit instead of squash balls. ALSO, is there by chance a separate file for the different sized buck converter? Thank you for the awesome vid! It was Super helpful so far.

@vbared 9 месяцев назад

Hi PeckNizzle, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Squash ball dot number and color determine their level of bounce so the idea is to have them dampen vibration by using the least bouncy squash balls. Single yellow dot is next to the least bouncy and double yellow dots is the least. Either one of these is excellent at absorbing vibration. A racket ball is super bouncy and would be counter to what are trying to accomplish. You can eliminate the buck converters for the hotend and control board by wiring them in series (see the link) drive.google.com/file/d/1A0vZgcqS16njSt77VM5OC3fgPrFb6xpo/view?usp=drivesdk

@csenior10 2 года назад

Those JST pliers seem to be a lot better than the iWiss set I have. I don’t think mine will hold the connectors like this

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Csenior10, Thank you for commenting. Yes, I think I got lucky with the model I chose. I saw many of the other ones that iWiss makes and thankfully settled on this one. Best of luck with your upgrades!

@orange_district Год назад

You are lucky. I have a 24V fan in my PSU.

@vbared Год назад

Hello Mario, Thank you for commenting. I would just use a buck converter to lower the voltage from the power supply to 12 so I could run the the big Noctua fan I use in the video. These buck converters have been extremely reliable. amzn.to/3R7uRsB Best of luck with your mods!

@orange_district Год назад

@@vbared thanks! Thats what I just did. Now I have a buck converter installed inside of the PSU. I definitely not intended to do so. There is a major issue with the buck converters. They convert dc to dc. All stock fans (maybe except from the PSU) are regulated by PWM signals, which frequently lets the buck converter turn on and of again. Maybe you have heard that clicking noise when running the MoBo fan on half speed. The only solution I found is to take the positive from a stable 24v converted to 12v and only the negative from the fan connectors. Still the DC fan gets a PWM signal. I am not so happy about that.

@denvermatt Год назад

Have you had any clogging? The noctua heatsink fan doesn't scheme to have enough cfm to cool it.

@vbared Год назад

Hello Denvermatt, You're 100% correct, the Noctuas flow less than the stock 24v Creality one. The key to improving heat transfer efficiency away from the stock stainless steel heat break is the use of a good quality thermal paste on the sleeve that slides into the heatsink. Doing that will ensure that all of the sleeve has good thermal contact to the heatsink. Without the paste the only contact areas would be the back of the sleeve that is pressed against the back of the heatsink and the grub screw. I had all kinds of heat creep issues during long back to back prints before adding the thermal paste. I haven't had to touch the hotends in 6 months after adding it. I made this video on how to apply it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3v_cEldgT4U.html

@doctrainsmodifications5201 2 года назад

Hi Victor, Thank you again for efforts here with these mods. Regarding the Squash Ball Feet, what is the best way to orient the part in Cura? In addition which Support Pattern is being used? Doc'

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Doug, Anytime, my friend. I loaded the model in Cura and took a screen shot (link below will download the picture) for you that shows the setting I use. The only extra thing not shown is that I have Enable Conical Support checked. You can find this setting in the experimental section at the bottom of the list of Cura settings. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=177jS8oDcuQ6ZrKMSM68G3pjaAI0EchZM

@doctrainsmodifications5201 2 года назад

@@vbared Greetings Victor, Thank you for your reply. It is a challenge to look at a print and to understand how to best place it. That in it self is a great lesson to learn, again and again and again, well you know. In your profile the enable conical support was enabled so we are off to the races. I set the print to run and back to the garden. Once again thank you. Doug

@vbared 2 года назад

@@doctrainsmodifications5201 Anytime, Doug, Just let me know if you have any questions. I'd be glad to help.

@CesarMartinez-tp4bx 4 месяца назад

Hello nice upgrades .. what type screws for the footings??? Thanks m5 t nuts ?

@Mrccarter3000 2 года назад

great video how is the 4010 fan on the hotend i have ordered all the parts but not sure on the hot end fan.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Darklink87, You can reuse the stock 24 volts heatsink fan if you don't mind the noise. Should you decide you want the heatsink fan to be quiet as well then use a buck converter to get the voltage down to 12 and get another Noctua 4010 fan to use as a heatsink fan. This is what I did in the video. Hit me up if you have any other questions. Best of luck with your build.

@Mrccarter3000 2 года назад

@@vbared i have all the parts just like to know how your new 4010 is when printing no issues ? i was thinking maybe a 4020 would be better great video thank you.

@dugy40 2 года назад

I am lost. The fan you took out said 12 volt. I didn’t see the voltage on the one going in. I thought the psu was 24 volt?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi Doug, The Meanwell power supply that my Ender 3 V2 came with even though it outputs 24 volts to run the 3D printer had a 12 volt internal cooling fan. The PSU must have an internal voltage regulator that puts out 12 volts for the fan and maybe other internal chips. I encourage you to open up your power supply and check the label in the fan inside for the voltage to confirm. Be careful not to touch any of the capacitors inside the power supply because they could shock you.

@masonsuper 2 года назад

18:36 that stomach growl was the loudest part of this installation

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi Mason, Thank you for commenting. Lol, too funny, it looks like I need to edit out the quiet parts to ensure I don't miss things like this. You put a big smile on my face, thanks for pointing it out.

@masonsuper 2 года назад

@@vbared 😂😂 I edit audio for a radio station and have learned a few tricks. Look up noise gates. "noise gate is an audio processor that works to eliminate sounds below a given threshold in a recording". Once the threshold is set correctly, it will just be your beautiful voice, with perfect silence in between.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@masonsuper Thank you for the tip, Mason, I'm still butchering my way through the software to make these videos. Learning new stuff every day.

@skyfall6686 Год назад

Hi great video could you share the squash ball feet .STL file as I can’t find it on your links? Thanks

@vbared Год назад

Hello Sky Fall, Thank you for the kind comment and for letting me know about the missing STL file. Linked below is what you need just mirror it in CURA to get the other side. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1EWg9jS3Ixdlnp6x3Xe6vOEJvM66O8rpv

@Pantybusters1 2 года назад

I got a question the Noctua 80mm is 12v fan i though it suppose to be a 24v fan like the hotend an blower fan

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Kaleem, Thank you for commenting. In both of my Ender 3 V2s and CR10S Pro V2 the fan inside the power supply is 12 volts. The fans outside of the power supply are 24 volts. Best of luck with your projects!

@Pantybusters1 2 года назад

Thank you for this information .. this video was very informative

@ravkhangurra7522 Год назад

Thanks for your video, I'm going to give this a go.. regarding the buc converters, I noticed the link in your description doesnt appear to be the same buc converters used in your video. Appreciate if you can advise which ones you used., thanks

@vbared Год назад

Hello Rav, Thank you for commenting. The mini buck converters turned out to be unreliable. I had two of them fail after a out 6 months of use. The ones linked have beefier components. I'm currently not running any buck converters for the hotend and mainboard Noctua fans but wired them in a series so the can share 1/2 of the input voltage. I made a diagram linked below: drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A0vZgcqS16njSt77VM5OC3fgPrFb6xpo

@ravkhangurra7522 Год назад

@@vbared Thanks Victor, i'll give that a try, what about the psu fan, do you have a solution for that one aswell,

@vbared Год назад

@@ravkhangurra7522 My stock PSU fan is 12 volts already so I didn't need a buck converter for it. Other subscribers told me that they have a 24 volt PSU fan. I would take the PSU apart and confirm what voltage your stock fan is. If it's a 24 volt fan you will need a buck converter. Hopefully your machine has a 12 volt fan already.

@ravkhangurra7522 Год назад

@@vbared just one final question, is their a solution for the hot end blower fan. I find the fan also quite loud. Thanks

@vbared Год назад

@@ravkhangurra7522 Good morning Rav, are you talking about the parts cooling blower fan that has the little duct or the one that looks like a box fan that blows on the heat sink? If it's the latter you can switch it to a Noctua. Unfortunately, I haven't found a quieter parts cooling blower fan if you were meaning that one. What I would do for that fan is to run it at 75% speed, which you can do in the CURA.

@proveedoresargelec624 Год назад

hi master! is the noctua a4x10 pwm the same as the noctua a4x10 flx? thanks!!

@vbared Год назад

Hello Proveedores Argelec, Thank you for commenting. The pwm version has 4 wires instead of 3 like the FLX fan. The extra wire is used for speed control. Best of luck with your projects!

@molotovgod 2 года назад

what is the original file for the cover? I can print on my CR10 V2 for my Ender. Awesome job by the way, just ordered all supplies.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Ivan, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I just added the single piece PSU cover file to the download like. Redownload it and it should be there. Best of luck with your mods!

@molotovgod 2 года назад

@@vbared thanks man, really helping people out is Awesome

@J9000 2 года назад

Where did you get the baggie of those frame washer/bracket things you use to pin the legs?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello JI81, Thank you for commenting. These links below are to what I used. Screw Kit - amzn.to/3oMU1AR T-Slot Nut Kit - amzn.to/3GMFNGf Best of luck with your mods!

@J9000 2 года назад

@@vbared ta! printed the feet - and had an adventure hunting for squash balls that didnt cost the earth!

@vbared 2 года назад

@@J9000 I had a hard time finding them inexpensively as well. I'm sure if I would have hunted more aggressively I would have found some for a lower price. I even thought about using a different type of ball but it turns out that the single yellow dot ones don't really bounce so they are excellent at shock absorbing unlike a racket ball that is bouncy.

@shanesteward4488 7 месяцев назад

The link to the voltage converter is broken please post a new link

@vbared 7 месяцев назад

Hi Shane, thanks for the heads up on the broken link. I've switched to these since I had failures with the tiny ones. They are a bigger but reliable. amzn.to/47Ht8Cu

@dugy40 2 года назад

my bottom wire cover glued on. was made that way, looks like yours

@vbared 2 года назад

That's interesting, no glue on mine.

@nn-hx8oe 2 года назад

Hey man, i hope you can reply to this, recently i burned something in my ender by making shortcut with the hotend fan cables, now after fully replacing the hotend and fans, none of the fans are working (2 of the hotend and the 1 on the motherboard) but the printer works just fine. I saw online someone said i could try to keep the fans always working by connecting them to the power supply, is this possible? if i connect the black and red cables where the other black and red cables are in the power supply this wont explode or something? thanks in advance..

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello N N, Thank you for commenting. Please read the disclaimer below before attempting to do use this information. "Disclaimer: Use proper eye, hearing, hand, and respiratory protection. This content is for learning purposes only. Follow these instructions at your own risk." Yes, you can connect the stock 24volt fans directly to the power supply but you may run into adhesion issues with your parts cooling fans being on during the beginning of your prints. Normally they don't come on until after the first layer or two have been completed. I made up this diagram for you to reference (linked below). drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16yztTcdkeuNZwMxby5HkRbj5XhRkDeKL

@nn-hx8oe 2 года назад

@@vbared wow thank you so much, i got the hotend fan to work! should i attempt to connect the side fan with the blue/yellow cables as well? and also do you think connecting the motherboard fan there would be too much and maybe i should get an external one for the motherboard? thanks again!

@vbared 2 года назад

@@nn-hx8oe Your welcome N N, Yeah yellow goes to positive and blue to negative. The power supply powers everything anyway but you just won't have the control over the parts cooling fan. The motherboard and heat sink fans will always turn on when the printer is powered up so being connected directly to the power supply won't make any difference in how they work. The parts cooling fans are supposed to be off during the first layers to help promote adhesion to the bed and then turn on. Their speed is also controlled by the motherboard so if you just connect them straight to the power supply they will be running at 100% from start to finish.

@rileyneufeld7001 2 года назад

The noctua 4010 fans do not put out enough air to cool the heatsink and heat creep will happen on longer prints. If you want to stick with the noctua you need the 4020 one to have enough cooling, but then you will need a different shroud. Oh and the tiny buck converters while probably fine will warm up overtime and potentially quit working they also need cooling. That's why people use the larger buck converters. Oh and btw you can print some helping hands (thingiverse) which I just did today actually and they will make soldering much easier.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Riley, Thank you for commenting and feedback, It's greatly appreciated. I enjoy learning about this awesome hobby from people like you. How long would say my prints would have to be to experience heat creep? I haven't thought about looking on Thingiverse for helping hands, I'll have to do a search. Any particular one you recommend? Best of luck with your mods!

@wasigeorge 2 года назад

@@vbared, did you see those issues that Riley mentioned?

@vbared 2 года назад

@@wasigeorge Hi George, Thank you for commenting. I did run into heat creep with the stock MK8 hotend after about 100 hours of printing with PETG at 230 degrees but solved the problem by adding a thin layer of thermal paste to the outside of the heat break before inserting it into the heatsink and tightening up the grub screw. Lastly add another thin coat of the thermal paste to nozzle threads only before screwing it into the heat block. Don't put any thermal paste on the heat break threads that screws into the top part of the heat block. The idea is to transfer any heat creep efficiently from the heat break into the heatsink but not from the heat block to the heat break. Without the thermal paste the only heat transfer surfaces are the grub screw and the opposite side of the heat break being pressed against heatsink. That's the true cause of the heat creep and not the lower flowing Noctua fan.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@wasigeorge No issues with the buck converters as on now.

@subhamkumar7424 2 года назад

Hey can you please share the psu cover as a single stl file , not in two parts.

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Subham, Thank you for commenting. I added it to the original files link and also below. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14DkcnrhTMqislPwqzmDAUNyQAtijmMfC Best of luck with your modifications.

@subhamkumar7424 2 года назад

@@vbared Thanks

@joaocoelho7799 Год назад

Hi. Have you ever had any problems using just a 40x10 noctua for the hot end cooling instead of a 40x20? I read a few times that the 40x10 may provide insufficient airflow for cooling.

@vbared Год назад

Hello Joao, Thank you for commenting. The 40x10 Noctua fan does flow less air than the stock one. Creality uses 24 volt high flow fans to overcome their poor fan housing design and low hotend to heatsink heat transfer efficiency. It wouldn't be so bad to just use their hi flow fan if it wasn't so loud. After switching to the super quiet Noctua 40x10 fans I started developing hotend clogs due to heat creep but I found the following couple of tweaks that would allow the 40x10 Noctua fan to work perfectly as the heatsink cooler. 1 - Improve heat transfer efficiency from the heat break to the heatsink by adding thermal paste to the outside sleeve of the heat break before inserting it into the heat sink. 2 - Switch the fan mount to one that has a tight tunnel from the heatsink to the fan, like my minimalist fan bracket. I've been running all of my machines this way since last year without any heat creep issues. Best of luck with your mods!

@joaocoelho7799 Год назад

@@vbaredCould you provide the link for that minimalist fan bracket?

@joaocoelho7799 Год назад

@@vbared and thank you a lot for your reply and your helpful video

@vbared Год назад

@@joaocoelho7799 Hi Joao, Sure thing, linked below. victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing? Thank you for your consideration in supporting my work.

@vbared Год назад

@@joaocoelho7799 You are most welcome (:

@sschriner Год назад

Great video. Can you please confirm the buck converter Amazon link? it points to 3.3v fixed converters?

@vbared Год назад

Hi Shawn, Thank you for commenting. It seems they updated the product to a non adjustable version. Use these voltage converters instead - amzn.to/3vZN56W Another thing you can do is to wire the 12 volt hotend Noctua fan and 12 volt Noctua control board fans in a series. I made this diagram to show you (linked below). That way you won't need the buck converters. I have both of my machines running this way after having two of the mini buck converters failed. The big ones linked above are reliable but will take up much of the space in the control board housing. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A0vZgcqS16njSt77VM5OC3fgPrFb6xpo Best of luck with your mod

@sschriner Год назад

@@vbared Great idea to wire the fans in series. Will the buck converter holder you made fit these different buck converters? I see you have used the Noctua 40x10mm fans. I see other guides are using the 40x20mm fans with the Fang cooling shroud, any drawback/benefit to using the 40x10mm fans with the Fang shroud? Thanks

@vbared Год назад

@@sschriner Hi Shawn, Thank you for your kindness. The new buck converters are much bigger so unfortunately the original buck mount will not work. I'm using a Noctua 4020 to cool the main board and a 4010 on the hotend. A 4020 would work on the hotend as well but I wanted to keep the hotend assembly as light as possible. Best of luck with your mods!

@RJHElias Год назад

I used Papst fan`s, expensive but with needle bearing and my Ender is so quiet you can sleep next to it.

@vbared Год назад

Hello R.J.H. Elias, Thank you for commenting. I'll have to try one of those. Please link the one you're using. Best of luck with your mods!

@jakeh8366 2 года назад

Fantastic job. First video I've found doing this what I'd consider "right" with buck converters soldered, secured, and tucked away. Thanks for putting this together! Looking at the STL files, I see the complete PSU cover, but it's too large for the build surface. You mentioned you split it, but I only see one of the two split files in your linked folder?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Jake, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. There should be three Ender 3 V2 Silent PSU files, main, part 2, and support bracket. Best of luck with your build!

@jakeh8366 2 года назад

I'll look again. Is the filament holder you are using a print or purchased part? I like that much more than the top feed, much more direct feed

@vbared 2 года назад

@@jakeh8366 Hi Jake, it's a print part that is linked in the description of my filament sensor video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_KIff_ZYmXI.html

@jakeh8366 2 года назад

@@vbared awesome, thank you for the reply. I am subscribed!

@vbared 2 года назад

@@jakeh8366 Much appreciated, Jake, thank you.

@runbuh 2 года назад

M5 t-nuts and what length screw for the squash ball feet? 8mm?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Run Buh, Thank you for commenting. Yes 4mm diameter x 8mm length for the screws t-nuts are M4. Best of luck with your build!

@matejjukl7300 2 года назад

Hey, does it matter which kind of squash ball I use?

@vbared 2 года назад

@@matejjukl7300 If you can find double yellow dot (least bounce) for a decent price get those. The next is single yellow dot (which is what I'm using) but bounces 10% more than double yellow dot. The idea is to absorb the movement of the printer so double yellow does the best job of that.

@chopperpl Год назад

WARNING!!!! Some Ender 3 v2s have 24v PSU fan. I just installed noctua 92/14 and it was blowing kind of loud, so I've decided to install LNA adapter. When swapping the connector I forgot which pin was positive (did not trust markings on PCB), so I took the voltmeter and was shocked the output was actually 24v. Checked the original fan marking and indeed it was 24v as well. Luckily I didn't blow up new noctua. Advice for all DIYers, never blindly follow instructions on YT and always check your specs.

@vbared Год назад

Hello Chopper Pi, Thank you for commenting. You're 100% correct, I just picked up an Ender 3 Pro and it it had a 24v PSU fan. The fans usually have their operating voltage on the sticker. Thankfully I had a buck converter and used it to step down the voltage and then just continued with the install. Great job in testing the output voltage and sticker before just plugging it in. Best of luck with your mods!

@chopperpl Год назад

@@vbared I've used the buck converter as well, so no need for LNA. This noctua fan is blowing more air at 10v than stock one... The noise level is now acceptable for the office use :) Thanks for your video and good luck with your next projects. Cheers,

@vbared Год назад

@@chopperpl Enjoy the silence (:

@skyfator Год назад

@@vbaredno. nonono. just no. why did you just type :) sideways. it feels so wrong jesus christ i feel hurt

@ekrem06 Год назад

I’ve 12v orğjinal fan put 120mm 12v fan again

@FlyB4UDie 2 года назад

Can I use this for the voxelab aquila X2 ?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Fly B4U Die, Thank you for commenting. The Voxelab Aquila X2 looks very similar to the Ender 3 V2. I have no way to confirm 100% without printing up the parts and doing it but I would guess, yes.

@FlyB4UDie 2 года назад

@@vbared Next week I’ll be ordering my Aquila X2, as soon as I got it setup I can try and print some things and find out 😂 I’ll keep you up to date

@vbared 2 года назад

@@FlyB4UDie Thank you Fly B4U Die, that would be an awesome contribution to the 3D printing community.

@wasigeorge 2 года назад

do you think a net or some filter is needed in front of that 80mm fan?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello George, Thank you for commenting. You can add one if you want to ensure that someone doesn't catch a finger in the blades but since it's under the printer I feel like it's unlikely. www.coolerguys.com/products/80mm-black-fan-grill-guard?variant=17666698629 Best of luck with your build!

@wasigeorge 2 года назад

@@vbared I don't worry to cut the finger, but how about dust? will it inhale in more dust?

@vbared 2 года назад

@@wasigeorge I think adding a filter fine enough to stop dust will also restrict airflow. The design of the stock power supply doesn't use a fine filter that can capture dust only protection for fingers. I would just blow any dust out using compressed air if I see any of it accumulating.

@ekrem06 Год назад

Hi are squash balls ok after a year? You use yellow dots?

@vbared Год назад

Hello Ekrem, Thank you for commenting. So far I haven't experienced any issues so far using the single yellow dot squash balls on two of my oldest printers that are over a year old. I did add a 5th squash ball foot on the heavy side of the printer due to my filament spool also being mounted on the lower left frame rail. Best of luck with your mods!

@ekrem06 Год назад

@@vbared Thank you very much, I’ll order today. I just print fan covers, I think E3 V2 still runing good.

@vbared Год назад

@@ekrem06 Your going to enjoy the silence.

@PWNHUB 2 года назад

4:15 You need to include a warning how dangerous opening the power supply actually is. Also why in the world do you have a JST crimper but not wire strippers? You have the next tool in line but not the one you need before it come on...

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello PWN hub, Thank you for commenting and feedback. You're 100% right, the capacitors inside can give a nasty bite if caution isn't taken. That why the first 10 seconds of all my instructional videos there is a disclaimer: "Use proper eye, hearing, hand, and respiratory protection. This content is for learning purposes only. Follow these instructions at your own risk." JST connectors are for thin 22-28 gauge wires, tiny in size, and only need about 1/16th of an inch of the insulation removed. The blue cutters that are included with the 3D printers are super sharp and the short tip allows me to get a good look at how much insulation I'm removing. Best of luck with your projects!

@TritoN2807 2 года назад

I'm new the 3d printing. Only had mine less than two weeks.. However I want to under take these upgrades as my wife is already unhappy about the noise at night. I'm curious, how long did it take you to print the cover? I bought some PETG, set mine away and it's 1 day 2 hour just for the fan housing section. Have I used incorrect settings? In cura, it was set for PETG, with 40% infill with supports. I had to print mine vertically. Couldn't get it to print flat. Lastly, which would be the better upgrade on top of this - BLTOUCH or CRTOUCH?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Ben, Thank you for commenting and welcome to the coolest hobby ever. I can understand your wife not being happy with all the fan noise the stock Ender 3 V2 makes. After these mods she or you won't notice it anymore. I added my Ender 3 V2 Cura profile to the files zip linked in the video description an also below. In addition I screen recorded a short video on how to change the bed settings in Cura to enable the model to fit and orient the parts. I didn't add a voice over but you should be able to follow along. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14DkcnrhTMqislPwqzmDAUNyQAtijmMfC If you run into any 3D printer questions don't hesitate to ask, I'd be glad to help.

@TritoN2807 2 года назад

@@vbared That is extermy kind of you thank you for doing that. I have just been comparing your file to mine and its looks like i did have incorrect bed settings. The print that i started which finished after 27 hours (my previous time was way out) was too fused together with supports and on trying to release them ive broken the housing. Im going to attempt to print based of the your example and profile settings -which i didnt know you could change the % that the supports cover. Thats very useful! Ill feedback my 'hopeful' success!

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi Ben, The CR-Touch is more robust, was designed specifically for the Ender 3 V2, and uses a metal probe instead of plastic like the BL-Touch. Best of luck with your mods!

@TritoN2807 2 года назад

@@vbared just wanted to say another thank you for the advice. I have successfully managed to print all the parts, and I must say using your profile helped tremendously. Just waiting for the 80mm fan to arrive and I'm hoping I should be good to go to start the mods. Can't do the hot end stuff yet, but will when the pennies allow.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@TritoN2807 Hi Ben, Great job, printing out all the parts. I'm glad the profile helped. Pacing yourself with the upgrades adds to the fun of it all. Looking forward to the next one adds excitement and anticipation. The stock hotend is awesome and with a few tweaks can be made extremely reliable. It would be one of the last things I would change. Just let me know if you want me to send you the upgrade path list (in the order of importance) I would use today. Enjoy the silence after the mods!

@JustCreateYou Год назад

When will you get the ender 3 s1? I would love mods on that one forsure.

@vbared Год назад

Hello Abel, Thank you for commenting. Are you able to do the silent mods. I believe the bottom of the machine is the same.

@JustCreateYou Год назад

@@vbared well I look up things for it and it's hard to find anything on it ;/ that's the issue I want the silent mods on the s1 as well.

@vbared Год назад

@@JustCreateYou I believe the underside is the same as the Ender 3 V2. You should be able to do the silent mods to replace the power supply and control board fans. You can probably also replace the heat sink fan provided that the wires are the same at the control board. Is the control board a Creality 4.2.2 , it should be printed near the center of it.

@JustCreateYou Год назад

@@vbared so I can practically use a buck converter for the PSU fan but the issue is that it's one whole piece on the bottom it's not like the ender 3 v2 🥲

@vbared Год назад

@@JustCreateYou I just watched a video on replacement of the control board. I see what you're saying it had a big cover on the bottom. The control board is different also.

@ManinBlack86 2 года назад

Do I have to print a support structure for the 3D models?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Sascha, Thank you for commenting. Yes, print with default support settings. Orient the part like it's pictured in the video thumbnail. Best of luck with your mods!

@ManinBlack86 2 года назад

@@vbared Thank you for the answer :-) Then I have to print it over several days as it seems because of the original noice level. I've also bought some PETG filament today like in your description. I'm excited for the implementation :-)

@vbared 2 года назад

@@ManinBlack86 Hi Sascha, If you run into any questions about printing with PETG, just ask. Best of luck!

@ManinBlack86 2 года назад

@@vbared I actually still have questions :-): I've read that PETG should look best at 220°C. Or should I rather use 240°C? And what is the best way to adjust the support structures? Did a test print earlier and it didn't look too good with some loose threads. I use Ultimaker Cura. I set the structures like this: 20% density, ZigZag, infill thickness: 0.2mm, gradual support infill steps: 2 But I'm still quite new to 3D printing and would appreciate any help :-)

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi Sascha, There are a few things that can be causing the stringing. Printing too hot, retraction distance and speed might not be optimized for this material, or the z-offset is set too low. Are you familiar with the calibration parts in CURA? If not check out this quick video I put together. Once you figure out what temperature looks the best for the PETG brand you are using then play around with the retraction distance and speed in CURA. On the stock Ender 3 V2 hotend I run 6mm retraction distance and 25mm/s retraction speed. drive.google.com/file/d/16ay4X2dNqhBtK5U34biLLIT4xIJ1LZfs/view?usp=sharing

@Rainer_Landes 2 года назад

Bad idea to replace the metal high frequency shield by a plastic cover. It will not shield the high frequency from the switching power supply. It will create interferences with all kinds of radio frequency devices. Bluetooth. 433MHz devices. WiFi. Zigbee. Radio receiver and so on....

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Rainer, Thank you for commenting and valuable information. I understand what you're saying. It was important for me to quiet down these fans, since my machines are in my living space, and still improve power supply cooling performance. My quiet setup fans are so efficient at cooling the power supply that it now cycles on and off during prints instead of constantly running as it did stock. Thankfully I haven't experienced the interference you are mentioning or It could just be the combination of wireless components that I use, not sure. Your points are completely valid and I appreciate that you are pointing this out so others can look at all the pros and cons of these upgrades. Best of luck with your mods!

@Rainer_Landes 2 года назад

@@vbared Thank you for your response. I appreciate your solution for the - in my opinion - weak point of the Ender 3 V2: the high noise of the fans. That's why I came to your video, anyway ;-) I also need a solution. I just wanted to point out to other people who might copy your solution, that the metal covers are there for reasons. I would prefer a solution that keeps them in place - maybe modifying instead of completely removing. Or adding some printed parts.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@Rainer_Landes Yeah, for sure the noise is super annoying and in my opinion it doesn't have to be. Not sure if this helps you or not but the shielding cover that I removed faces down when the power supply is remounted. The shielding is still there on the top and sides. You might be able to restore the shielding by lining the inside of the printed cover with aluminum foil, just take extra care to make sure it's well secured to the underside so it can make contact with any of the power supply components. Another thing that I didn't mention in the video but did was to print it using PETG which isn't a flammable filament. Best of luck with your mods!

@jamesmoody2461 2 года назад

Looks good, word of caution with the PSU cover make sure its printed out of something that is safe, the PSU is in a metal case for a reason as this will help to stifle a fire. Do not use PLA as its flammable if making the PSU cover use TPU or PETG

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello James, Thank you for commenting and bringing up that great point. I should have mentioned that I printed it out of PETG. The original .STL file was very well designed and provided even larger vents than the manufacturer used. Before doing this upgrade the PSU fan would turn shortly after a print was started and continue to run non-stop until it completed. Now the larger 80mm fan combined with the longer vents, and extra distance from the surface the PSU fan again turns on after a print is started but then cycles on and off during the print which indicates the temperature is dropping below the trigger temp for the fan. I'll add this information in the description. Best of luck with your projects!

@gudelauneee 2 года назад

@@vbared If you Cut out the vents on the black cover the stock Fan will also Turn on and off during the print

@vbared 2 года назад

@@gudelauneee Hi Chris, Thank you for commenting and sharing your super simple solution. Creating additional vents to the stock case would definitely improve cooling performance. I was surprised that the Creality design team chose asthetics over function. Best of luck with your projects!

@Rancid_Ninja Год назад

Did mine in pla+ over a year ago with tons of prints on it, no issues

@PeterM-PeterM Год назад

Where can I get one of those butt converters? Might need one for the wife.

@vbared Год назад

Lol, I have just the thing to help you solve that problem - www.amazon.com/SEASUM-Control-Slimming-Leggings-Workout/dp/B07F6FCDPP?tag=readerwp-20

@dugy40 2 года назад

did u just say psu is 12v? first ive heard that. i am using 24 volt fan

@vbared 2 года назад

Hi Douglas, the only thing that was 12 volt is the PSU fan. The PSU outputs are all 24 volts.

@dugy40 2 года назад

@@vbared oh ok. Thank you

@Dislike4Life Год назад

Im fucked up... My ender 3 v2 power supply fan is not 12v.. I dont have enough converter.. Im going to explode

@vbared Год назад

Hi Dislike, Dang, I just went through the same thing with a power supply from a Ender3 Pro also having a 24v fan. What you can do is use the buck converter on the power supply fan and then wire the heat sink fan and mainboard fan in a series. Give me a call 478-227-3301 if you want me to walk you through how to wire it.

@BEG_Bueno 2 года назад

wait do you not need a buck?

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Beg Bueno, Thank you for commenting. Since I changed the two small fans from the loud stock 24volt to the ultra quiet Nocua 12 volt fans I needed to reduce the voltage from 24v to 12v, that's where the buck converters come it. The big power supply fan didn't need one because the original fan was already 12v. Best of luck with your mods!

@BEG_Bueno 2 года назад

@@vbared thank you very much for clarifying much appreciated

@thomasbrosset7794 Год назад

I don't understand you because you bought an ender 3 v2 and soon after you make a lot of changes that are pretty expensive when you do the math so why buy an entry-level printer to have a mid-range one is not very logical because you might as well buy a mid-range one directly

@vbared Год назад

Hi Thomas, Thank you for commenting. I understand what you're saying. It seems to not make sense. The first printer I bought was a CR10S Pro V2 for just over $700. I thought the same thing, a printer that already includes all the bells and whistles will be less expensive and less hassle than upgrading one, boy was I wrong. The fans were very loud, the build plate won't grip the prints without stick glue or tape that later required scraping or cleaning, and a hotend that would clog. The only way to resolve these problems was with more spending. New build plate $95, all metal hotend $65, Noctua fans $60, and the list goes on. I chose the Ender 3 V2 because is has a strong inexpensive 32-bit foundation to build on. It has the important things I need and few of the things I don't. I've seen this printer on sale during Black Friday for as low as $179. My essential performance upgrades will run an extra $190. In my opinion, starting with a strong budget printer, adding the right parts, and self-printing other upgrades makes for a reliable printer that consistently produces great prints. In many cases, it'll run circles around the premium printers like my CR10S Pro V2. Best of luck with your mods!

@GLST1977 2 года назад

Downgrade...proven downgrade

@vbared 2 года назад

Hello Rob, Thank you for commenting. Please elaborate on why so we can all learn from your experience. Best of luck with your build!

@GLST1977 2 года назад

@@vbared Noctua fans are 30 % lower in cfm efficiency than stock fans. This is something that we went to a lot of trouble to show last year and we thought that this was now common knowledge. I'm not building, our company is the biggest 3D printing company in the UK, and we heavily researched many claims on RU-vid, it does seem that Dunning-Kruger is everywhere nowadays.

@vbared 2 года назад

@@GLST1977 Hi Rob, Thank you for commenting and I appreciate your feedback. I can't tell you how many times I've been told this. The trouble is that Creality needed the extra CFM to overcome the biggest short coming in the design of their hotend. The MK8 should have a threaded heat break and heatsink like the E3D V6 (which btw uses a tiny fan and yet doesn't have any heat creep issues) instead of the sleeve that is pressed up against the back wall of the heatsink bore by a tiny grub screw. Essentially 3/4 of the heat break isn't making direct contact to all of the heatsink bore surface so it's unable to transfer all of the heat build up efficiently from the heat break to the heatsink. How I solved this problem was to apply a thin coat of CPU thermal paste to the sleeve before inserting it into the heatsink bore and tightening the grub screw. Another point that I added the thermal paste was to the threads of the nozzle only being careful not to get any on the threaded part of the heat break that screws to the heat block. This way I have excellent heat transfer from the entire heat break sleeve to the heatsink and excellent heat transfer from the heat block to the nozzle. The last points I added thermal paste to is the two ends of the heat block screws before they screw into the heatsink. I've been printing PETG at 230 on my Ender 3 V2 stock MK8 with a Capricorn bowden tube trouble free since applying this fix while keeping my super quiet Noctua fan on the heatsink. Before adding the thermal paste I found myself having to address underextrusion and clogs every 100 hours of printing. Best of luck with your 3D printing journey.