Funny story, this trick is how I used to beat the pants off of people in the old video game Gran Tourismo. It was billed as a "driving simulator" and bragged about a realistic physics engine. That's what got me interested in it, and I wasn't disappointed. In that old game, sway bars and lightening were the under appreciated modifications that could turn a boring compact into a consistent winner. My general tactic for cheapest results was to fit the "racing" level bars, both front and rear. These offered the greatest adjustment range, and I'd start with the front on full soft, and the rear midway. I'd consistently beat far more powerful cars with little effort. It would rotate very fast in low speed turns, fairly neutral in faster turns, and allowed full power on corner exits a lot earlier than my overpowered, understeering, rear drive competitors. Works in real life too.
This is something I’ve tried to tell people for years. Easily one of the best bang for buck modifications you can make to your car. Every time I modify a car, one of my first purchases is an upgraded rear anti-roll bar.
It's good for smooth roads... It makes the ride much rougher on bad roads though. The double edged sword of stiffness. It does take away some comfort. Depending on where you live, If comfort is the priority, don't do it. Otherwise it definitely helps in cornering handling and stability
I thought that was common sense, it’s pretty well known in 4x4 when you raise the car more than 3 inches to not just lose all steering or rolling over in the first sharp turn
The ND Mazda MX-5 might be one of the exceptions among modern performance cars, very soft suspension setup and pretty good handling balance from the factory.
It also benefits from 50-50 weight distribution and very low overall weight :) I would guess these factors allow it to have a soft suspension and maintain good dynamics
This is the exact problem I'm fighting, and while I found the answer myself through hours of research I'm glad to have the confidence of this video backing it.
As the wise man once said: "even the worst suspension can be improved by preventing it from operating." Mostly necessary due to roll center and how high cars are. If you have a low car, or one with low center of gravity (EV?) may not be necessary? As the owner of a string of VW cars I always found it hilarious I was undoing the semi-independent trailing arm rear suspension. It's also neat when the torsion beam can house a splined torsion bar of varying specifications, without needing any linkages.
It's even better than that! It's true that the sway bar increases outer wheel load on the axle it's mounted at, reducing that axle's cornering grip. Additionally, it also increases wheel load on the diagonally opposed wheel on the other axle, as long as the body is stiff enough. So you are not just making one axle worse, you are making the other better! Good video! I'd love to hear your thoughts on horizontally mounted chassis dampers like the SARD motion control beam.
Excellent presentation, sir. To your point, I have posted the fastest time at many SCCA autocross events over the past 14 seasons while running either an NB Miata with no rear sway bar, or a Subaru WRX with no front sway bar. I actually won the D Street class regionals in my 2017 WRX with no front sway bar and bone stock springs/ dampers. I only tuned the car balance with alignment, tire pressure, my right foot, and lots of second-hand knowledge from books about Autocross suspension theory (Dan Watson is one of my favs). After looking through your videos tonight, I’m looking certainly forward to adding your book to my collection next.
When VW worked to set their Nurburgring lap times for the MK2 Golf It was faster around the track with no front sway bar. The rear doesn't run a separate sway bar but the rear axle itself is effectively one.
I have a Pontiac Grand Prix. The suspension is exactly like a 68-72 GM A-Body (Chevelle, GTO, 442, GS). I did the poly bushings, cut one full coil from the front coils, added a 1" rear bar and gas shocks. The MOST PROFOUND result was replacing the stock 1" front bar with a 1-1/4 bar from a WS-6 Trans Am. The car rides firm but not harsh. However, it corners very well. It is fun to drive in twisty roads. The last change I need to make is to install a bump steer correction kit.
I was driving on ice tracks last winter. Got annoyed by the tremendous oversteer my E30 318is offered. Removed link from the rear sway bar and car immediately felt faster. Thinking about improving front tire contact patch later. Previous owner has increased caster, which means that the front wheels tilt heavily with greater steering angles and in the slow sharp turns the car understeered before and still does, by a lot. Of course the limited slip in the back is probably also to blame, but compared to my brothers E36, my car is a lot slower in the sharpies and we used the same tyres. It's nice to see that car videos are not all about wide wheels, turbos and lowering, someone actually speaks about making cars better. Thanks for giving the insight. Greatly appreciated.
@@JulianEdgar in most cases, I would agree. But my theory is that on flat ice with streetlegal studs and almost no body roll in slow sharp turns, any camber over stock most likely worsens contact patch or pressure on the studs. I can even see on the trackday photos how unevenly loaded the front tyres were in the tight corners. Having tried similar cars which did not understeer as much, I'm fairly sure that extra caster is the problem.
@@JulianEdgar Increased -ve camber on the inside tire will decrease it's grip (as the camber is actually +ve as far as the tire is concerned) which could come into play at low-speed, low-G pivoting kind of motions like hairpins or an ice track. E30 has quite high caster, so it could be a real factor. Camber will also make longitudinal grip worse, which will just exaggerate the issues if braking is applied.
I too have an e30 but with the e36 328i engine and 3.46 plate lsd. The standard sport dampers, very slightly lowered springs, increased front caster with ever so slight toe out made my car very quick on our rough roads. Sometimes literally driving around other cars that had too low and stiff suspension. My one issue was low to mid speed corner exit oversteer. I thought it might be a combination of too much torque and relative light weight but now I'm thinking about trying to tweak the balance via the anti roll bars... Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience everyone 🙏
Back in the day, it took me a long time to understand why sway bars change the car's balance because I couldn't find a clear explanation at the physics level. You've nailed the simple but correct way to explain it!
Thank you for saying this. This rings very true for us in the bmw community - i see alot of people putting very stiff springs on their car. These aftermarket coilovers: ruin ride quality compromise chassis in suspension mounting points (in particular this exacerbates issues on e46 and e36 3er chassis) sometimes cost far more than oe options provide minimal handling improvements over factory sport suspension options. But when you bring up that an upgraded antiroll bar will make a bigger difference you are shut down and told you dont have an understanding and that the coilovers are "worth it" - I dont know what is causing this, potentially marketing by coilover manufacturers. The other belief is that lower = better handling. It just doesn't but that's another issues.
I think the lower is better thing comes from modern race cars producing more downforce the closer they are to the floor, which obviously doesn't matter even slightly in a normal car context.
I think many people want coilovers because the ride height is adjustable to their aesthetic preferences. It's less about the performance improvement, and more about replacing old stuff with new and making the car look better. If you have a beat-up old E36, a cheap set of coilovers will still be an improvement from stock 30-year-old blown out shocks and springs. Personally, I would rather keep it simple with new shocks and lowering springs, but I understand the appeal.
I had a 2014 Toyota Prius and adding the TRD rear sway bar was a game changer. The car felt so much less floaty when changing lanes around the speed limit. It took corners surprisingly well!
Fitting a stiffer sway bar at the rear on my normal cars has always made them just 2x more enjoyable to drive. They are boring cars by default, but this has always been the minimum for what I would change to my FWD super understeery cars.
Have done a bit of experimenting with the Chevy Cruze and autocross racing. Car started racing on stock suspension, then eibach lowering springs, then bolted a stiffening element to the rear twist beam, then got Koni yellow shocks for the rear, then got rear spring stuffers (rubber between coils) and finally the car began to rotate in the turns with 8 psi higher rear tire pressures vs front. This became my daily driver setup when not racing. The next incremental improvement [for autocross times] are the stiff spring option ISC coilovers, with 12k front and 10k rear springs, rear motion ratio 0.66. It rides terrible and gets into a harmonic on some roads while traveling at freeway speeds which bucks me like a bull ride. The car more easily rotates on the race track with less difference in rear vs. front tire pressure and less body roll. This season has more mods. I ran the calcs and got a set of 6.7k front springs to mate with the 10k rear springs giving a calculated frequencies of 1.9 front and 2.1 rear to try and achieve flat ride. The front shocks will be replaced with the standard ISC valving. Because of the soft front springs, I opted to get both the front and rear [adjustable] sway bars, front bar logic is to reduce body roll from the softer springs.
A rear sway bar was my first modification to my car, it sharpened the handling on my FWD car in a lovely way. After that every other suspension and wheel change just compounded the sharpness in a complimentary way. Best value/dollar modification that is noticeable right away in my opinion.
Sway bars are good and easy modifications, just be careful. On one of my cars I went from a hollow 19 to a hollow 25mm in the rear (from the sportier trim level of the car) and it snapped the mounting point off the subframe after some excited driving. After re welding it stronger its snapped in new places about 5 more times and now I have to drop the subrame and reinforce everything for it lol. but if you have a car that isnt made of cheese it shouldnt be an issue
Extremely nice video. I am building a drift E30 and i have fitted a rear sway bar (stock) because it wasn't choosed on the initial car. I have also fitted an inline 6 engine instead of the inline 4 it had and not changed anything about the front sway bar yet. I will try driving the car without sway bar in the rear as in drifting you want all the available traction on the rear. Thanks for your nice videos. Greetings from Greece!
I will now be sharing this with everyone who asks about the first mod on a car. I changed both on my stinger, mostly because the stock swaybars are fixed bracket units, but I did stiff setting rear and soft front to get the same effect you are preaching. The change to a floating bracket alone made the ride more compliment to bumpy roads, and the stiffer bar in rear pulled the balance just slightly to oversteer. Great breakdown!!!
Yes this man knows what he is talking about. Followed his suggestion on a Volvo xc70 witch is very soft and has a lot of understeer from the factory. Replaced rear from 20 to 25mm and also replaced front from 24 to 26mm. Amazing difference. Of course loosing a bit traction in off-road and full out suspension travel limit, but not hardly any noticeable compared to gained feel of handling ferormance👍
@@LateralTwitlerLT Well yes, but why was there the need to upgrade the front swaybar then? Perhaps he felt the car was rolling too much as well? If he ONLY wanted to reduce the understeered then there'd be no need to upgrade the front also. Was just gonna ask him about it.
Glad I found this video. I've read on the Honda Fit forum I frequent that this mod makes a world of difference for our plucky little hatches and I can't wait to buy mine.
Sway bars almost seem too easy, but when you experience the before and after, it seems ridiculous not to do it first. Great explanation! Interested in buying your book:)
One thing unmentioned is that sway bars also add to the spring rate somewhat, or whatever it does to make the car more bumpy on poorly maintained roads. I've installed sway bars on my F10 BMW and the performance difference is amazing. You know what else is amazing? I'm now able to feel every change in the road including a small pebble. Trade-offs obviously, but i'm not going back to stock and I'm keeping both. I'm coming from a subaru which feels neutral in corners. So the bmw initially had an oversteery feeling and upgrading both gave me the balance I needed.
Amazing advice more people need to hear. It's almost better to be modifying on a budget at first, as you look to really effective solutions like sway bars before someone can sell you a set of expensive coilovers or suspension 'stage' tuning kits that make any modern car far too stiff,, too low, and disconnected from the road.
Oright, I think I understand. It will apply to people that have an issue with the way a car is driving, which I had a slight complain with my Honda back in the day where in original form it was way too tail happy, after I fitted my coilovers it drove way better and much more predictable but now it had a little bit too much understeer sometimes, nothing that I couldn't control but it sometimes was a little issue. I was messing with coilover dampening in front to counter it, but never felt any massive difference. Sway bar was on my list as many used to says it makes the car drive even better, but no one ever really went deeper into why that's the case. I have a brief knowledge on car suspension but far from expert. Now this helps a lot. My MX5 currently has the same issue on stock suspension, front will start understeering, with it it's a little different tho cuz often it will oversteer after correcting it, makes it fun, but it's an odd behaviour. Obviously it's an old ass car with 20yr old bushes and so on, but worth knowing this for the future, especially when I'll be setting up my 370Z. Thankfully that doesn't have any of these issues, it grips hard and is definitely a little more on the oversteer side, but very controlable and pretty predictable. Again that's on stock suspension, and I don't push it that hard so I didn't run into limits of the oem setup, I do want stiffer setup tho, purely for the driver feel, also to reduce the body roll as it's a little more than I would like. I would love to see next video on stuff like suspension dampening and spring rates in greater detail, I may even get your book, or an audio book if that will be available!
Yes you do see and read the fact that more unequally balanced left to right tires have less maximum grip potential, compared to more equally loaded tires. That’s what it’s all about!
This is incredible, thank you!! I just bought some cheap coilvers to stiffen up my pillowy soft suspension, but it understeers badly too. Assuming the new parts don't fix that, i see a sway bar in my future!
Lovely video, I intend on getting into motor racing be it time attack or wheel to wheel in IPRA or similar, these videos are amazing to watch. Thank you for the time you take to educate.
Great informative video 👍 To somewhat bolster your explanation, but also contradict the point about kits, is that kits I’ve seen seem to significantly increase the size of one bar over the other with aim (I assume) of the manufacturer to restore the balance and reduce undesirable driving characteristics. Assuming the manufacturers actually R&D their products, surely when sold as a set, it’s in their interest to deliver a neutral/balanced feel, unless of course they’re relying on uneducated/inexperienced customers. Again, great explanation and not disagreeing with your overall message 🙂
Thank you for the wonderful and concise video. I can only speak from off-road community, but this kind of clears up why disconnecting front sway bar can improve cross axle articulation, more effective than removing both sway bars. I also read above in comments that a pair of stiffer rear coils achieve similar effect to a stiffer rear sway bar, but can it potentially improve cross-axle articulation, on 5 link solid rear axle vehicle? If you draw a simple diagram, coil springs on a 5 link solid rear axle are also pushing down opposite wheel as the fulcrum is the other wheel.
I think there needs to be a follow up on how stiff suspension interacts with stiff or soft. Such as what happens if you have radically soft suspension on stiff anti sway bars.
Really good video and info. Nice and succinct but gave me a much better insight into how swaybars affect dynamics. I appreciated how you mentioned the limitations of stiffness as a general solution too. Felt like enough info to make help make decisions with less chance of wasting money and time on something that ends up not actually fixing problems or making the whole system perform worse. Might have to pick up that book hey? And see what else you've written. While I'm happy enough following the pack with modding my cars I've always admired the guys who aren't just kind of cargo culting a set of proven upgrades and truly understand the decisions they're making or the more complex projects they can take on. But it's always seemed pretty impenetrable to me, just as far as access to info and theory, so a couple of good books might be the right place to get started.
Obviously I recommend my own books but there's truly very little thorough and expert-vetted information out there. Just lots of noise and misinformation... especially if you're modifying an unusual car.
I never knew-probably due to inexperience-exactly why many road cars have both front and rear sway bars if having only one could compensate for the steering imbalance after designing in flat-ride spring rates. The drawback of having a sway bar is that the left and right sides become coupled, reducing grip on one-wheel bump scenarios. One thought is that having both sway bars might be necessary because designing the control arm nodes to have enough camber gain and enough travel while hitting ride frequency requirements could be challenging, so the easy way out would be to add roll stiffness by putting stiff sway bars. Another idea is that higher roll stiffness feels more responsive; thus, it appeals to younger folks.
Been thinking exactly this. I've got an understeery Golf, and learned about ARBs. Every video I watched, changing the rear ARB looks super easy. Why don't more people talk about it?
(1) Because they're companies that want to sell lots of expensive stuff. (2) Or because they're people who don't understand much about suspension but who have learned lots of technical sounding terms. For relatively modern cars with stiff damping and stiff springs (like they nearly all have), a single sway bar change is usually enough to radically improve road car handling.
With the new swaybar links that have the balljoint style ends, I just cut them off all together. With the rough rural roads we live on those links, even the best we can find, last less than a year.
@@timtrial3971 Ive done that before, funnily enough that's how I wrote off my 97 Camry. It was fun while it lasted and atleast no one died, pretty bad crash though
@herniagaming I only lfb in hillclimbs and rally sprints. You don't need to on downhill. I rarely get to do it. My truck has the steering column in way
My car is plowing straight in winter. It's really annoying me, sometimes I even handbake a bit to help it turn. I thought that I can fit a thicker rear sway bar from different trim, but this is already the thickest there was. But I never thought about going softer in front, because I hate body roll. There were some thinner ones on this model. After this video, I am thinking maybe I will also give it a go with the softer front. Maybe i will like it.
Great video! I have a question about this topic, I have a bmw e82 135i, which has very little (and not adjustable) camber at the front wheels and zero camber gain, putting the tires in a disadvantageous position when cornering hard, basically loading only the outside of the tire (which wears much faster than the outside). Some people in the forums suggest that fitting a stiffer front sway bar the reduction in body roll allows the tires to have better contact on the ground thus enabling them to produce more grip than with a softer bar. Do you think this could be the truth?
I wonder how far sway bar links can go before they become unbearable on the roads. By that i mean if i were to use a rotating spring steel blade link rather than the traditional ball joint ones.
awesome video as usual! any chance you can do a similar one on Strut-Bars? They were all the rage when I was modding cars 20ish years ago, but I could never get a straight answer on what they were actually achieving (further than looking hot when you open the bonnet)
I agree with the physics explanation except that I think this effect is only transient, meaning it happens while the weight transfer is happening during and after changes in cornering. At steady state during a turn I don't think the weight on the inside and outside tires would be different with or without sway bars. This is just working off of my intuition on physics.
You'd better buy the book when it comes out - there's a detailed explanation in it of how sway bars change weight transfer on the front and rear (it doesn't change on the inner and outer tyre pairs). And it's not a transient thing.
Thanks for the video! Any chance you have a playlist explaining racing setups? This sway bar video helped me understand it incredibly easily, I still don't understand a lot of the setup options in Racing simulators like ACC and iRacing.
what people think when they see a racecar with most of the original suspension rebuilt/swapped/upgraded, they immediately assume this has to be the best and only way to make ANY car “good”. they often forget that in motor sport uses (any kind for that matter) these cars are purpose builtfor said uses. for daily driving/street uses changing one or two things (suspension-wise) is most of the time something more worthwhile and more effective than completely reworking the entire suspension. since your “dailies” come from the factory pre-set for road applications, there’s no real need for a complete overhaul, really. sure there are some flaws here and there, and some cars are made to be less about “spirited driving” than others, sure. but overall there’s nothing a simple mod or two such as a new/better swaybar (for example) would/could not fix.
Yes, if the suspension system is in good condition - eg dampers (shocks) and bushes. (I thought that obvious but seeing what some people have written I guess it needs to be stated.)
Great video. I am however left wondering why manufacturers fit two sway bars at all. They pick a handling balance they want and put one sway bar on whatever end of the car thats needed and leave the other end without one it would seem. I mean, I drive a very softly sprung 90's French car. That thing would actually have a body roll benefit from having sway bars. But modern cars like you said don't use sway bars for that
A very softly sprung 1990s French car is at the opposite end of the spectrum to any modern car, that has stiff springs, stiff dampers and stiff sway bars. Manufactures chase very low body roll because the first thing a road test journalist says when a car has body roll is to criticise it! But body roll (or, more accurately, the softer sway bars that give more body roll) has some major advantages.
@@JulianEdgarThanks for your reply. It makes sense to me now Would it make sense to add sway bars to my car to prevent some body roll? I intend to keep the springs and shocks ths same. I understand this reduces some grip at least. I just wonder wether it would make the car unsafe. I aim for a little more medium speed cornering comfort The sway bars that I can put on are from a sport variant of my car. That sport variant has stiffer shocks, I believe stiffer springs as well but I'm not sure. Ergo the sway bars were made for a different setup
And also if you add "struct bards" to the rear and from will improve everything. i seen some new brand new vehicles from dealers already putting them in the from struts but i am nt sure if they also put it in the rear.
@@JulianEdgarI will say both because at the end of the day is all about to get rid of that "roll over" i have not try it yet but a friend of mine told me that the struct bars did a huge change on his car. i will try it on my car but the dealer or oem from toyota does not exist so i have to find a 3rd party company to see if some one out there makes them for my car. I need to try them first and see if is true what they say. but i know for a fact that the sway bar and the sway bar links and the sway bar bushing when you replaced them with brand new ones you see a huge change basically the car feels again like when it was brand new the handling the the roll over is not there or is way less.
The statement "Sway bars do little for body roll" is interesting. Is the change due to different suspension geometry in modern cars, something else taking on the role?
Thank you for making this video. I read stuff about the rear sway bar, and this clears things up even more. Just one question. Is there a huge difference between a rear sway bar and a front strut bar? Thanks.
A rear stabilizer and a front strut bar don't perform the same function and are incomparable entirely. One is a spring, the other is an elastokinematic component.
Surely the reason a sway bar works is not because it lifts the inside wheel, it is because it directs weight transfer onto the outside tyre which comes away from the outside tyre at the opposite end. Therefore increasing stiffness at the front increases weight transfer on the outside front tyre and decreases it on the outside rear tyre. This is because the stiffer front end carries a greater proportion of the total weight transfer. If your explanation is correct, just stiffening the springs at one end (rather than the sway bar) would not actually change the handling balance because that would do nothing to lift the inside tyre. However, if my understanding is correct, you can use either the springs or the sway bar to achieve the same thing. I'd be interested in your thoughts?
@@JulianEdgar thanks, I wondered if that's what it was. Glad I haven't been confused all this time, I was getting worried though! 🤣🤣 That sounds like a good reason for people to buy your book, getting a detailed understanding of this is crucial if you want to know how this works.
Hi Julian, this is the first video I’ve come across of yours and it’s very informative just the type of channel I’ve been looking for. I’ve got a fwd car which I’ve had under steer issues with. I fitted a rear sway bar and am still having issues. Would completely removing my front sway bar be of any benefit? Thanks
That's usually a bit of a radical move, but you could do so for some careful testing (assuming that the sway bar doesn't help locate the wheels, of course).
@@JulianEdgar I may try see if the base model of my vehicle has a thinner sway bar in the front and try that first. Very much enjoyed the video mate I’ll be watching from now on.
@@JulianEdgarjust the answer I was looking for! In the states it is getting harder and harder to find a customs shop that ... Ya know... Does actual custom work.
Is there a quantifiable manner with which we can find the necessary increase to the sway bar stiffness to achieve the desired handling characteristics? Additionally, how does one go about getting a custom stiffness sway bar made? I've just stumbled upon your channel and I find your presentation style very informative and concise. Looking forward to your book
Yes it can be quantified however you will need so much accurate information (spring rates, motion ratios of springs and sway bars, centre of gravity height) and use a car simulation model, that it's not worth it. You get a custom bar made at any place that makes custom bars - often also spring manufacturers. Sway bar stiffness goes up as the fourth power of diameter. A educated guess is a good starting point. Happy to do that if you give me details on your car eg f/r weight distribution, existing bar sizes front and back, FWD, RWD or AWD, standard or modified springs.
@@JulianEdgar Is there a formulaic method to get this approximation? I am currently trying to make the car fully roadworthy first before making any changes😅, although I greatly appreciate the offer.
Yes, you can do that. However, it will typically change ride quality (pitch and bounce) and is more expensive than changing sway bars. Also, it will usually need a damper (shock) change as well - so even more expensive.
@@JulianEdgar cost aside, the way I see it is changing spring rate tuned to the suspension frequency of your application would be more effective at improving handling, because it not only creates neutral handling during lateral loads i.e., cornering, but also, as you mentioned, vertical loads affecting pitch and bounce. it's more expensive, but it will improve more aspects of a car's handling than just tuning with larger front or rear sway bars.
Well, if you spend five times as much, and have much greater complexity to get right (or wrong), of course you can potentially get better results. I am not sure what point you are making?
@@JulianEdgar the point I am making is that for those who want to improve handling of their car, it's better to first start with damper/spring rates, and THEN fine-tune with sway bars if necessary. There are lots of people I know who do the other way around, by changing sway bars first, and then modify the rest of their suspension, where the original sway bar modification becomes unnecessary or overtuned.
You seem to be unheeding of the title of the video, and the content of the video! Anyone can make up any premise they want if they ignore what they’re commenting on.
@Julian Edgar, what will be the title of your book? I would like to buy it. As an electrical engineer who loves cars. This is not something i learn in school or a work profession i can get into and learn. Do you also explain the sway bar concept for either a fwd or rwd car?
The book will be called: 'Vehicle Ride and Handling - Testing, Modification & Development'. Sway bars are covered, and FWD and RWD cars are covered in specific chapters.
call me crazy but im running a 93 subaru legacy (inside a 1980 BRAT chassis) with no swaybars front or rear and it handles really well with surprisingly little body roll. they did not come with rear swaybars from the factory and are known to understeer so i figured it wouldnt hurt to test drive it without the front one installed and sure enough it makes a ton of mechanical grip! so heres a question: do different suspension setups cause more or less body roll? like is macpherson going to resist roll more than a solid axle for example? or am i only getting away with this cause my cg is super low?
Hi Julian, also Julian here. What do you think about the idea of removing the front sway bar for improved performance? I race my car (2012 VW Golf R AWD) and did this with the advice of my mechanic who has many years experience racing FWD VWs and hes built some very fast race cars for himself. I found that it did improve the front grip however it did become a bit "numb" feeling and was susceptible lift off over steer and sometimes unpredictable over steer mid to corner exit. Should i re install the front sway bar and put a stiffer one in the rear? Are further underlying issues with completely removing a sway bar? Ive also heard of drifters doing this to their front sway bars too. Is there a way to change the balance predictably or is it just trial and error with the diameter of the bar and also the end link mount location?
Julian I am confused because you recognize that a stiffer sway bar results in a net reduction of grip when cornering for the side of the car with stiffer sway bar. So would adding a stiffer sway bar aways result in less grip, and therefore a less capable car? Would the ideal be to always install a softer sway bar on the side of the car you want to change the characteristics of? I have a front wheel drive car that understeers, so my understanding is compared to stock if I add a stiffer rear sway bar I will have less total grip at the rear but better balance, but if I add a softer front sway bar I will have more total grip at the front end and better balance which is ideal. Pleas let me know your thoughts, Thank you
For a 10 min video I deliberately simplified how sway bars work. They also add grip at the other end by causing a diagonal weight transfer. If you have a typical fwd, stiffen the rear sway bar.
Would moving to softer sway bars (front and back) improve ride quality? It would be a relatively easy way to improve ride quality. Or even deleting them entirely, but not sure if it would be safe even if you drove gently.
Thank you sir! This was very helpful! What if the car has 50/50 power distribution? (2022 WRX) Also, is a stiffer sway bar makes the ride quality worse? The car is already very stiff.
Okay, so I have a 2016 Ford Focus SE hatchback (as you can see in my profile picture). I noticed recently that my car has started to have more body roll (not too much, but just enough to be annoying) when making turns, and I also noticed that the rear feels much looser than the front when I travel down a gravel/dirt road at around 50 MPH. Are those important clues that I should change my rear sway bar and links with high quality, aftermarket replacements, or could it be something else?
Thanks for the video. In my case I have a fwd which generally understeers a little. The thing is that it has a rear dead axle, so both wheels are continuously connected, I don't actually believe there's a rear sway bar. The understeer is minimal and it easily changed by having the rear of the car sits a little higher, low speed entry corners are much better, although high speed stability gets compromised a bit on track and can oversteer. So at the point I just need a stiffer away bar at the front to combat that again right?
If high speed oversteer occurs, do some aero changes - www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Aerodynamics-Modification-Development-alternative/dp/B0C87VYVL8 or Amazon in your country. Very easy.
Your rear wheels are connected, but they're not *also* coupled to the chassis like what a stabilizer bar would do. So you can still use a rear stabilizer bar to tune handling.
Quick question: Will a stiffer rear sway bar help drifting a open diff RWD? Cus im kinda thinking it would have a tougher time sliding, since the "open diff/stiff rear swaybar" setup, lets the lifted wheel spin even more, but idk. Any help much appreciated🙏
Stiffer usually means fatter, but it could also mean changing the lever arm length, or (to a lesser degree) changing the sway bar bushes to firmer ones.
Like Julian said, changing the bushings will change the wheelrate, but not very much. Bushings are components in installation stiffness, which is a second spring that works in series with your suspension spring. Making that second spring stiffer will mean you have more rate "left over" and less of it is "lost". This of course will come at the expense of more wear on the mount that the bushing is attached to; solid metal ones might snap the mounts off. Bushings, even rubber ones, are very stiff, but the wheel assembly is typically stiffer, so it's a bit effective to increase the rate of the bushings for higher IK (installation stiffness). The catch is that how much IK affects your wheelrate depends on the input rate of the spring itself. Very soft roadcar bars might only lose let's say 2% of rate between OEM bushings and metal ones, while stiffer racing ones might lose 20% and so on. What stiffer bushings WILL do is generally decrease slack in the system, which reduces the size of the "dead zone" where the bar isn't activated but the wheels have deflected.
Would be good to have more empirical data. How did you know what specifications to make your new sway bar? If it's 50/50 weight distribution, did you make it 18mm diameter to match the rear? If not, why not?
My approach on the MG4 X-Power was as follows. (1) Test with front bar disconnected - as expected, too much oversteer. (2) Get two bars made - 24mm and 27mm. Sway bar stiffness changes with the 4th power of diameter. (3) Test the bars (in fact I fitted the 24mm first and I was so happy with that I didn't bother testing the 27mm). I didn't go with an 18mm bar like at the back because I still want a final understeer characteristic.
I have been trying to get a better ride for my 2020 Nissan Maxima Platinum which I don’t drive much because I don’t like the way it drives in Maryland. I only have 14K miles on it. Now I need find which one or both sway to make it work like a better riding car for me.
@@JulianEdgar Thank you, Mainly when I take off the car front wheels turn a little to left or right depending on road i am on. Secondly, when cornering, it leans a bit more than i want to. I assume a rear sway bar would help that.
So I have a 1st gen Celica and it doesn't have a rear sway bar. There's a kit to get a rear sway bar installed on the live rear axel, is that going to serve the same effect as stiffening a rear sway bar?
@@JulianEdgarThanks, so quite a reduction. Does it now oversteer or feel nervous, or do the electronics cope okay with the change? I've driven a MG 4 Trophy (UK spec), and it does drive very nicely, so I can only imagine what one with much more power is like!
The f/r roll stiffness of the X-Power is very much more biased towards the front than the standard MG4. My change has brought f/r stiffness ratio back much more in line with the standard MG4. No, now it handles quite well. I'd like electronic control of the damping, but unfortunately that's not available.
@@JulianEdgarThanks - like many others, I''m sure, much appreciate that you respond to questions. I have purchased many of your books, and look forward to buying this one as well (UK) later this year.
