Theres a yellow label on the top surface of the back of the case: Wachuwan Instrument Repair Co, Ozone Park, NY. Looks like they went out of business in 1976. However the building is still there and it's still a music store, Albertos Music Center.
You're bringing in popularity now on synthesizers,,,, Moog!!! Yes sir. Good to see you again on your videos. The parts I got from you for my Arp Odyssey 2813 worked great. I'm playing the heck out of it. It hadn't played in years.
Yes, cool helpful video, thank you! About 1 hour ago I pulled my friends early 70's Minimoog out of the case and on to my home electronics work bench. So far I've just given it a visual inspection. He had the 4th modulation oscillator modification as well as the fine tuning oscillator rotary knobs. I can see by your video that he also had the blue trimpot mod done, or maybe this some other board but, I bet it was a mod done with the addition of the others. So, thanks to you I'm walking over to my bench and removing the filter and power supply board. Once step at a time so as to get familiar with all things layout and wiring. Thank you for this good video and I"m sure I'll be back for visual references and comparisons.
Nice touch using a more original style power cord. If doing a more elaborate restoration, you want to change the electrolytic caps, the "tropical fish" caps, and any of the carbon resistors. Oh, and if the overload lamp light goes on when you turn it on, your fuse needs replacing. :)
So, I have 2 vintage MiniMoogs in very poor condition, but have zero experience in electronics. One I bought new back in 1977 and the other I bought at a music store. I want to restore both of them, but I have no idea how to start. Watching this video, it looks fairly easy, but then again, you know what you are doing. Should I attempt the restore myself or look for somebody else to do the work? Right now, I'm using a Roland JP8000, which I love because of it's polyphony. But, it's also out of service due to the dreaded "low crackly output" syndrome. Thanks!
Nice Minimoog. But I prefer the previous version of the oscillator board (like in mine). This is the latest version. I don't know if you might have done this out of camera, but it's always a good idea to clean the edge connectors on those boards before reinstalling them. Especially the oscillator board which can be finicky with varying voltages coming from board #2 (keyboard circuit section) sometimes causing erratic tuning. Also the Cinch-Jones connectors beneath the Mod Wheels section are prone to bad contacts and can benefit from cleaning. Again, it might have been done already... Thanks for sharing a glimpse inside this legend, for those who might have wondered what makes the pikachu fatter ! lol
Gee, too bad you missed the inside of the keyboard assembly and the cleaning of the contacts... for that you have to take off the bottom of the synth, though... any other video on that, bro ! Great job.
Isn't it dangerous to touch the power supply circuit? It looked like you touched the DC section of the power supply. Is it that DC is not dangerous? In my electronics classes I heard ac is extremely dangerous and in building computers you never open the power supply.
Just curious why you wouldn’t update the power supply electrolytic caps (at a minimum) while you have it open? Aren’t these 40+ year old caps likely to fail?
Hey, is it possible to remove the minimoog from its woodencase? I was thinking it would be a neat woodworking project to make my own case but am unsure if it’s possible to disassemble the electronics from the case
It's a Wien Bridge oscillator, and it can go out of tune if the passives drift in value over time. There's a trimmer pot you can use to adjust it. This one came in at A443 and needed a little tweak to get back to A440.
Because the hot side should be fused. If the wiring is reversed (neutral is fused) and the fuse blows, the instrument potentially poses a huge safety hazard.
Is this specifically important for the minimoog? I got confused because I see a lot of equipment having reversible power cords or power sockets (like 2 pin roland connectors for example)...
That should apply to anything with a polarized power plug. And be something you're aware of if you're working on a 2 pin scenario, lest you become the path from hot to ground in an instrument you think should be safe because the fuse is out.
In Germany it indeed does not matter, because the Schuko plugs can be put into the socket both ways around. In the US, UK and other countries where the plugs can‘t be turned it makes total sense to wire it up correctly. In fact, as a German, it is beyond me, why we came up with this silly Schuko design, where many other designs are fool proof!
In Germany it indeed does not matter, because the Schuko plugs can be put into the socket both ways around. In the US, UK and other countries, where the plugs can‘t be turned it makes total sense to wire it up correctly. In fact, as a German, it is beyond me, why we came up with this silly Schuko design, where many other designs are fool proof!
Great video. You're underrated af brother 🙏 earned a sub. If you'd like, seek the FB group 'audio expertise'. A group myself and an engineer from Boston admin geared towards experienced engineers. We would have no issue helping you get some more views👍
