I've been using Castrol Edge High Mileage 5W-30 Full Synthetic for two or three years now. My 2.5L T5 engine was burning about .5qt to 1 qt every 2,500 miles. Since switching to Castrol Edge, I've noticed that the engine oil burning has slowed down quite a bit. The additives in Castrol Edge High Mileage really do seem to work in engines with over 100,000. I've been pretty impressed with it and will keep purchasing it for my car for now on.
My Buick Enclave with 50,000 miles was using a qt every 3000. I switched to Amsoil high mileage and now it’s a qt every 7,500, on the way to a 12,000 mile interval. 😊
How about doing g 1 quart of Castrol 1 quart of pennzoil platnum 1 quart of Royal purple 1quart of amsoil and then half quart of supertech in my engine? That would be the best oil in my opinion. Would that be a smart thing to do orrr?
Great video, factual and honest! Yes, any oils that meet a high standard will work, I feel the same way about gasoline. I have always been a Castrol guy myself but I would not have a problem using any others in your list in a pinch. I have a Honda EU1000 generator with 1300 hours on it and still running strong!
Great review! Im a loyalist to Supertech, although i agree with your video. I have ran Super in a 07 focus for 300k and it still isnt burning any oil, no knocks, no pings. But Great Vid
Pennzoil dramatically got better because they were purchased by Shell, which now provides them with some of the best base oils in the world considering they are completely vertically integrated and produce and refine their own supply on a global scale.
I was 100% Pennzoil. used it for my 2006 kia rio. but now, i switched over the past few years to SuperTech. Yes, its cheaper, but like you said, it passes all the tests like the others, so no need to pay more if you same quality as the others. I do replace oil and filter every 6,000 miles in my cars now.
Castrol Edge Here!! My Toyota Camry has over 300,000 miles and it's still running strong. My local mechanic are impressed how well and strong the car is still running like new
I bought a brand new 2014 Toyota Tacoma and started out using Mobil 1 (5000 mile changes) and have consistently used that oil since then. I'm not a heavy duty driver, but it does have well over 100k miles and still running like new (and no oil loss between changes).
Good video!! As you said ALL the oils are good so it just depends on what your partial too. Me I prefer Valvoline Max Life as Ive never had any issues whatsoever with it. My 2nd choice would be Pennzoil. Ive never used RP, Mobil 1 or Castrol so dont have an opinion on those brands but Im sure they work just fine.
Stay away from Castrol oils. I've used it and it runs hot and kinda rough. Mobil1 is great and what I usually use. This oil change I used Pennzoil Platinum. Seems like a good oil but have noticed the engine temp runs a couple degrees warmer. RP is an ok oil but in my experience it lasts about 2k miles and starts to break down. More of a racing oil that's changed often.
Valvoline has been doing a great job on my Saab Turbo. It’s a high compression four-cylinder turbo with 260 hp.I have the Valvoline place down the street do it. They are always busy and do a good job. I drive it less than 5000 miles a year but change the oil every year.
If I were you I would change the oil twice a year. 5,000 mls a year is not much but you are probably putting those miles in town, so there are a lot of stops and goes, unless those 5,000 are run driving a few long distance trips. Just a recommendation.
@@albertopalma1663 Next oil change I’m going to do an oil analysis and ship it in for the results. If it suggest I need to change the interval I will otherwise I’m going to keep it what it is. I have a feeling that it will be fine Because I’m using their full synthetic
I watched a video with a person putting different brands of oil through a series of hard tests, and in the end it came down to Royal purple vs Pennzoil 1, and the Pennzoil won. This guy knows what he's talking about
Yeah, I have over 303K miles on my '98 CRV and I'm pretty sure I've used every oil shown in this video over the 26+ years I've owned the vehicle except RP. However over the last ten years or so I've almost always used Walmart's Supertech because it's a quality product for a very reasonable price. I buy the 5qt jug which is an even better deal.
I use Pennzoil 5W30 Full Synthetic myself. It goes into a BMW V8. X5 to be precise. At one point BMW was recommending Castrol Full Synthetic. But now it seems that Pennzoil is the prefered brand. I remember the yellow M3 Pennzoil used as an advertising catch. In tests Pennzoil has done better than Castrol at heat dissipation and thermal expansion as well as breakdown. It is also created using 100% clear synthetic base oils derived from natural gas. It is the Best... What do you think. ???
Awesome video , I just happened to always use Pennzoil, and now I know actually very good oil. I use it on my jeep wrangler sport unlimited 2014 ,and I also use it on my acura RL 2007 , works great
I have used all of those oil with no issues at all. I have always been inclined with Valvoline full synthetic because they were the first brand I used when I started to drive plus its an American owned and operated company. At the same time, ExxonMobil is also American as well as Royal Purple but to me RP is not worth it for me. Motul has been the absolute best oil I have used and I've used pretty much every oil that's on the market. Great video.
I'm odd I use Valvoline because there one of the few that still have simple easy to open bottles that don't have a foil seal and still use the small cap that don't get stuck when you try to open it.
2018 Impala V-6, I use MOBIL1. I get it on sale at Costco for $30 and buy 2! I did use Royal Purple onetime, but I stick with Mobil 1 since. Make sure you use a quality filter with any good oil.
Well I appreciate your opinion. I'm going to switch from Valvoline to Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-20 so I can get the best performance out of my 4.6 liter 2v
Pennzoil Platinum is way better than Mobile 1, it was not shown here but it is better than Mobile 1 and about the same price, a better base oil makes a better oil and no oil it the world has a better base oil than Pennzoil platinum, the base oil is made from natural gas, not crude oil, Mobile 1 can not compete
I'm a huge Pennzoil Platinum fan myself! I use to Castrol Synthetic for many years without issues! But, in the past year and a half I switched to Pennzoil Platinum. I've been and Enthusiast for ever, and have worked in the car business. But;, I have Travel across country many times buy car, and have tried different Oils, and additives. So, I've come to believe Pennzoil Platinum offers the best bang and protection, at a good price!
yes the best base oil makes the best oil, all the others have to have more additives to keep up but just like drugs in people those additives have side effects
I've worked in the auto industry for 30yrs and diagnosed many oil pressure and/failed engines traced back to Pennzoil (sort of). Let me explain. People do not change their oil on a regular basis and deposits and sludge build up in the engine. This is bad but not engine failure bad. The examples I've run into were all engines that were not maintained properly and had significant deposits/sludge build up and all had recently been to Jiffy Lube and had fresh Pennzoil in them. Pennzoil is very high detergent and washed out the engine and caused the oil pump pick-up screen to clog and starved the oil pump causing the loss of oil pressure and in some cases where the owner did not stop driving when the oil pressure warning system told them there was a problem it caused complete engine failure. I believe these customers were probably not using full synthetic and most likely the base Pennzoil (I had heard it was paraffin based). Had they used a less detergent oil all of the deposits would have stayed where they were and not washed into the pick-up screen. Not really a Pennzoil problem, but more of an observation.
Just put castrol edge in my turbo Subaru xt for the first oil change since I got it 3 months ago it’s great to here that it stands up to high temperatures because I’m in az
@@overhead440 So you have never seen oil go black in under 500 mi?? Color doesnt define quality at all..Only way to know condition of oil is through analizeing it..polaris or blackstone can do a full break down and tell you whats happening and life long before color change or smell or texture will show issues..
Craig_sez Well, cheap oil from ACE store becomes dark faster, than Mobil 1. So, ACE brand is doing better job than Mobil? Absurd. Oxidation is what , mostly, make them darker. Mobil takes longer to oxides
I worked as a BMW technician - 1999 to 2003. BMW’s used Mobil 1 synthetic oil, for their “extended” life oil change interval. At 15,000 miles, the oil looked like runny tar. It was absolutely awful! The oil filter element rarely came out in one piece. The filter resembled brittle plastic at 15K miles! Regardless, it wasn’t filtering anything for many thousands of miles! I told customers to change their oil every half-interval, as displayed by the oil indicator lights (or mileage counter) located in the instrument cluster. And damn right!! It is a free Country!!🇺🇸
I've used Castrol for twenty years and never had any issues always clean motor when broken down and not much wear when broken down either I'll stick with my proven Castrol
Very good video. I love the way you explained things. Very easy to understand. I'm currently using mobil1 full synthetic oil. I pay $11.49 for 1qt, and $38.99 for a 5qt.
I use/used SuperTech in my lease, I have to say, 6k mile intervals and the oil is still dark honey color on the rag, meaning it hasn't fully broken down, quite impressed, especially for the price for a 6qt oil change, pennzoil/ supertech are my go too's
I heard that the only true synthetic oil is Pennzoil Platinum because it's the only one made from natural gas, while the other brands are treated with chemicals, etc.
I've been changing oil for 45 years.... Valvoline back in the 1970s was my brand. Then I switched to Mobil 1. Back 40 yrs ago Synthetic was $1 qt vs Dino at 25¢ qt. Today the difference is less than $10 per 5 at jug. IMHO as Old Man I prefer true synthetic base oils (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline) vs Hydro Cracking oils (Castrol). However one aspect of oil nobody can tell is the strength / quality of additives. So in conclusion, change oil with synthetic oil filter regularly. Less than 10k. 🇺🇸
Supertech Full Synthetic 5w30 is available in 5 quart jugs for 13.97 at my local Walmart. I love the stuff. They even have the high mileage variety for the same price.
Another Oil I’m also trying out is Redline 0w40 . (Have a feeling it’s gonna be neck and neck between the two) I’m running it in my Son’s 2020 CanAm 570 Factory Oil was drained at 500KM We ride hard with our Quads in the Winter here in Canada so I’m excited to have a sample tested in the summer from my buddy at the University. I will report back with results
I’ve been changing my own oil since 1965. I have been very cognizant of what ratings are on oils. I follow all ratings and purchase oil based on those ratings. My oil changes originally (1965) started at around $3 (including filter). Today I’m doing between $15-$18 (including Supertech $3 oil filter or Toyota $5 OEM filter). I purchase oil that’s on sale only, brand doesn’t matter, ratings do matter. In the 60’s and 70’s any engine that went over 100,000 miles was a rarity, we just didn’t keep cars that long. Even in the 80’s, cars didn’t go that high of mileage. My first car that went over this was a 1990 Lincoln Town car, bought used from a lease at 33,000 miles, and sold at 157,000 miles, because the wheel wells were starting to develop rust (Chicago area salt). After I switched to Honda’s, every one lasted at least 150,000 miles average. In 2006 I changed to synthetic oils, and that 2006 Accord 4 cyl. lasted over 200,000 miles before a black ice accident totaled it. I changed oil every 6,000 mile intervals on that Honda. I now change at 5,000 mile intervals & use Supertech oil filters. I use car mfg. oil viscosity recommendations and buy oil on sale, any brand that meets API, etc. ratings. Thanks....Jim.
I mean just changing the oil regularly with ANYTHING is hard for people apparently. So I think if you change the oil with some brand at 3-7k miles you are probably doing alright.
Good chip. Brand biased for oil or car brands at this point is just a lack of intelligence. The information is out there, do the research. It's not 1985 anymore.
Car brands still are a truth. Just look at the Dodge, GM and Honda, Toyota resale values. Some brands are more reliable than others but not much difference in oil brands as you said.
I was using Pennzoil Synthetic until my truck started burning it (it does have 199,000 miles though). I ended up changing over to Mobile 1 and noticed it didn't burn it as quickly.
Try replacing a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, as someone who has used it for years and knows plenty of people that do as well it’ll help that burning of oil and prolong the life of the engine
Very informative and well taken... I also am a Pennzoil man but just recently went to Valvoline, due to location of oil change shop. But, I agree with you you really can't go wrong with any of them...Also Amazon has thrown its hat into the oil fight and their oil is really good also.
I've gone to NAPA full syn and their filters. Their oil is Valvoline and their filters are Wix. Until I watched a lot of break down videos, I didn't realize what a huge difference there really is between filters. Oil change and tire rotation every 5k.
I am considering napa oil. you can right now buy napa 5w-30 fully synthetic for $18.99 (5 quart). but how long can u drive between oil changes? I typically like to go 15K miles. it doesn't say on the packaging. lots of synthetic oils will tell you right on the packing how many miles you can drive between oil changes.
@@wasatchm that's too long, oil is cheap enough that you should never go over 10,000, just inviting trouble. Claiming such long change intervals is simply a marketing strategy, while your engine may not blow up it's definitely not good for it. Engine oil is continually being contaminated through intake air, combustion, condensation. Some engines can tolerate that type of abuse better than others.
thanks. I've just talked to 2 mechanics and both said the oil will never go bad just sitting their in your vehicle. I use amsoil fully synthetic which is suppose to go up to 25K miles. it is very expensive that is why I ask. if I had cheaper synthetic oil, I would probably just change it out. my truck I never drive (maybe 500 miles/year). so I will not waste money changing the oil in that unless it looks dirty. my car (which also uses amsoil) will get an oil change at the 24 month mark (I am currently putting about 5K miles on it per year) unless it looks dirty. I understand your point about how cheap oil is. but personally, I just think it is a sales tactic used by the oil manufacturers to sell more oil. but, I don't drive anything expensive. if I had a more expensive vehicle, I may agree with you. my vehicles are usually only worth 2K or 3K.
by the way, I think high end synthetic oil (such as amsoil) can make your engine last a long, long time without frequent oil changes. I bought a 2001 nissan frontier with 59K miles. immediately started doing 25K oil/oil filter changes using amsoil products. had no engine problems whatsoever until I hit the 327K mile mark when I blew a head gasket.
I use Amsoil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles. A few years ago I kept it in my 100,000 mile, 2006 Toyota Highlander 18,200 miles. In draining it, I sent a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. The report came back that the oil had remarkably little metal in it, indicating very little engine wear. The report also said that the oil was good for more miles. Personally, I don't recommend going 25,000 miles unless you have a late model car and your driving is mostly highway.
Mobile 1 breaks down much quicker than Penn Ultra Platinum. If you have an oil pressure Guage in your vehicle and keep watch over the oil change lifespan, you will absolutely notice the difference. Not to mention the many scientific tests right here on YT that prove exactly what I'm saying. I made the switch after years of using Mobile 1 and I couldn't be happier
Well, after using Mobil 1 for years and years I recently purchased the 12 quart bulk pack of Super Tech Full Synthetic 5W-30 for $2.48/quart. Been using it for 2 years. I change the oil in my vehicles and I see Super Tech does a great job of getting dirt out of the crankcase.
Dirt out of the crankcase, interesting. The oil filter traps dirt, etc, the oil has 3 functions; Clean, Lubricate & Cool. That's what I care about in my oil and I use Purolator One oil filters, change every 5k
I've been using mobile 1 synthetic oil on my cars/trucks for years. My 2008 Tahoe and Silverado both bought new 0 miles currently have 200k+ each. Can't speak for the other oils since I havent used them but I'm happy with what I use so I'll stick to it.
I quit changing oil in my mowers years ago. Never had a engine fail the whole mower falls a part before engine trouble. My current mower is falling apart 7 years old never changed the oil only added when it's low. Engine runs perfect but everything else is almost done.
I love Valvoline and Pennzoil 👍🏻 been using Pennzoil platinum full synthetic high mileage in my 2010 dodge avenger with 142,000+ miles on it and it runs great!!
Thank you for confirming that even SuperTech is highly rated. Happens to be what I use for my 2011 Silverado. My neighbor always gives me shit about using "Walmart Brand" I pointed out all the approvals.
I have 2010 ford fusion 2.5L 4 cy. have used most of oil's in your video and can tell you not much difference in performance and mpg. They all good! go to walmart and save some $$ most of the oil's listed are sold there !! it is a personal preference thing !!
Valvoline makes the best engine oil, ATF, ATF+4, CVT fluid and all gear oils, like 75w90, 80w90 and 75w140... they also make LSAs (Limited Slip Additives) for advanced differentials and lubricating grease.... trusted for 150 years
@@reginaldwilsonviii1446 Oh! I just switched brands to try Valvoline 5w-30, please show me the results of that test, if the oil is bad I'll change right away!!!
I have been using Super Tech last few years but before that I used nothing but Penzoil and changed my oil every 3-3.5K miles and I always had a clean engine when I would drop a oil pan or valve cover. Penzoil works but I saw videos on Super Tech and it lab tested good and I could save a few dollars. I also did a lab test on the High mileage Conventional Super Tech with close to 4k miles and it came back good as well.
I use Pennzoil platinum and sometimes Rotella gas truck in my Ram 1500, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my mustang and Castrol Edge in my VW jetta. I think you really can’t go wrong with any of these new synthetics.
I looked around to find the best oil for a long time. The top of the line oils all seem great. You really can't go wrong with any of them. I use Valvoline full synthetic high mileage in my high mileage vehicle and Castrol Edge in my other one.
I buy Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic and pay between 23-26 dollars for 5 quarts at Walmart! Same stuff at Orelly's and AutoZone was middle to high 30's. Walmart is the winner price wise and a great oil, a win win!
I've used valvoline high milage for a long time.. Had a 93 suburban I bought with 193,000 miles on it . Used valvoline in it since I bought it.. I sold it with 325,000 on it and still running pretty good.. Never needed to do any major work to engine.. Thanks for the videos Buddy!
I’ve been using Royal Purple since 1993. What it did for my Audi 5 cylinder with a thrust bearing knock. I’ve been called a lier, but that knock vanished within a month of using at that time called 41 a 10/40 racing oil. With using Royal Purple lubricants. The first thing you want is to look to see if the Royal Purple you want to purchase, should have the following preparatory addicted called Synerlec. HPS, for high performance engines with additional additives for bearings, XPR is racing oils & they are outstanding. MaxCycle is RP’s motorcycle oils which have high zinc content. Put the oils on Lubricity tester. The HPS & especially the XPR & MaxCycle are just fantastic. Test all top rated oils on the machine. Have oil analysts done on oils that are in your vehicle to see how well the additive packages are holding up or failing by absorbing by products of a operating engine.
I've used Penzoil and valvoline for most of my younger years (conventional). I've been using super tech synthetics due to buying it in the past for the same price as standard oil from standard brands. Haven't had a single engine or oil related issue with a vehicle since using supertech. 108k miles on my tundra using 0W20 supertech, had a Mitsubishi raider pickup before that made it to 150k no major trouble aside from it being a Dodge Dakota with a Mitsubishi badge. As long as standards and maintenance intervals are met supertech will definitely do the job. Not saying its better but definitely shoots above the belt price wise.
@@teamdada2194never said they were bottled in the same facility. I've owned 6 or 7 vehicles and never had a single oil related problem or engine issue other than maintenance items (coil packs, spark plugs, belts ect.). Always followed the owners manual for viscosity. Sold the tundra at 185k miles, Mitsubishi at 158k miles.
@@trentfranks4507 I know you didn’t say that. I stated that to answer the replys before they all came out and said it. I’ve heard it at least a thousand times. I would never use supertech unless it was a lease vehicle but to each their own.
@@Jake-iw6qm no expert but it’s cheap for a reason. Spend another $5 a gallon and buy better oil. It’s not like you have to drop the oil every 2 mths. I use synthetic mobil 1 and drop it twice a yr. Using supertech for cars and trucks is like using rotella for semi trucks. Completely idiotic. The same guys doing that are the same guys buying china steer tires or walmart china tires for the car guys. Cmon.
I have been using Supertech oil for over 15 years. I have used this oil in 6 vehicles; Nissan, Toyota, Dodge, and Subaru brand vehicles. Never had a problem.
Been using Mobil 1 for years and recently switched to Pennsoil Platinum with great results with compression and performance. What really interests me now is the new Rotella 5-30 that's outperformed Mobil 1 in many tests which I'm trying next!
Since I only change my oil once a year, even though SuperTech may be fine, Mobile 1 is only around 10.00 more. So to know for sure (yeah I'm biased) that I have a very good oil for the next year, that 10.00 more is well worth it to me.
My brand is the one thats on sale or offers a rebate at the time. If none are on sale, I go with Supertech. Its more important to change your oil on time instead of focusing on the brand.
Don't remember what brands I started buying when I first started doing oil changes, but eventually I settled on whatever was cheapest on Amazon when it came to buy oil, so long as I got the right weight. Usually Castrol GTX or Edge was the cheapest and it just so happens that Mazda (car I own) recommends Castrol for its engines. But now I'm seeing Castrol's oil is expensive on Amazon. So for my last oil change, I got Valvoline. I recently found out Havoline sells 6 quarts for $20 which is a steal. Getting that for next time.
Excellent video! Well done! I have a 2016 Honda Accord EXL V6 and I'm pretty darn loyal to Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20. And I use a purilator pure 1 oil filter and change it every 6-7k miles. Excellent oil quality and cleanliness as well as fuel economy and flow/ pumpability! Great engine wear protection!
gabe villarreal, I run that same combo on my ‘17 Civic EX. Engine runs smoothly, and after 7K miles, the oil comes out darker (obviously) but still has a great deal of translucence to it. Can’t beat it!
Very hard to find a crap quality oil these days. I normally stick with what has worked for me. Valvoline full synthetic, Mobil 1, and Rotella T6 for my diesels.
Back in the late 80s/early 90s I read a couple studies/Consumer Reports type articles about Pennzoil causing horrible sludging. I've sworn off that brand and avoided it like the plague. I'm actually very pleased to hear that they have totally changed. I will do a bit more research on them and maybe add them to my preferred oil list. I've long been a Castrol GTX fan. Got my first car in '87... a 1978 Honda Accord hatchback, 5 spd. It was an awesome little car. I used Castrol GTX in it. I've had a few Hondas (Accords and Odysseys)and a few Toyotas ('84 Xtra Cab pickup, 3 Previas) and they all got Castrol oil. Then I got an '02 Saab 9-5 Linear. It required full synthetic. Manual called for 0W-40, but my Saab mechanic said that was BS and way to watery/thin. He recommended 15W-50 or 20W-50 in the summer and 10W-30 in winter. I always used Mobile 1, Castrol Edge or High mileage Blend (which ever was on sale). He actually recommended Royal Purple but I stuck with Castrol or Mobile 1. Just bought a 2016 Ram 1500 4x4 Laramie Longhorn/Limited, with ~109k miles. I've been watching a ton of RU-vid videos on engine oils. Mobile1 High Mileage Blend actually scores very high in the various parameters... better than Mobile1 full synthetic. So I'm kinda leaning toward that or the Castrol High Mileage Synthetic Blend, in 5W-30... But I'm going to take a closer look at Pennzoil and consider that also...
I was a long time Castroil fan. Even the mechanic I used to go to swore it was one of the best brands. But I would have to say that with the newer standards all of them are going to be close. I noticed you only focused on oil for gasoline engines. I had to switch brands when I made the change to diesel engine ten years ago. Shell rotella t6 has been working well for me as a full synthetic diesel engine oil. My next vehicle might be gasoline again so I will probably choose a brand that meets the vehicle specs and is priced fairly and reasonable available.
I personally go with the 5 thou' mile/6-month oil-change, and get the cheapest synthetic motor oil, as long as it's classified "SP"/"GF-6A". NO PROBLEM!!!
I bought my wife a 2012 VW sportwagen a few months back and just did the first oil change yesterday. I bought the castrol edge European car 5W-40 to use with a wix XP filter. You validated my decision to buy the castrol over generic. My feeling is they pack a lot more technology into the oil to prevent bad stuff from happening during demanding conditions. I feel more confident that I’m protecting this investment when I use the premium products and follow the maintenance schedule to the letter.
I like Project Farm’s videos. However, he failed to mention that the top 4 oils in his competition videos does not have the API donut seal. Why? Because those oils have exceeded the amount of additives, specifically, ZDDP additive, which API thinks prematurely destroys catalytic converters and puts out more harmful fumes out the exhaust. Without the API restriction (and the donut seal), obviously, those oils came out on top because they have more anti-wear and detergent additives.
I switched to Pennzoil Platinum recently and I may be crazy, but my car loves it. It seems to idle smoother, and is definitely quieter than before. That said, nothing wrong with my engine, just noticed the subtle difference and I’m sold on the Pennzoil Platinum. It’s a Ford and I was using Motorcraft Synthetic Blend which is good oil, but nowhere as good as the Pennzoil Platinum. In years past I ran Mobil 1 synthetic or Valvoline synthetic. I bought the Pennzoil because it was on a great sale, and have already bought more to do my next oil change.
Your not crazy, many will say you can't feel or really hear a difference but I beg to differ, I've had so many rides from 4x4 s to 4 banger high rev drifts to the most admired muscle cars with v8's and even now am enjoying an 06 mustang with the v6 and mild bolt on mods and most cars if you love your ride like I do let's ya know which oil it likes, but then again I'm crazy to :)
I buy Valvoline or Mobil 1, whichever is on sale. Project Farm has done numerous oil tests that have shown there are differences in the additive packages and cold flow and temp stability in these oils. Worth watching those too.
I stopped using Valvoline high-mileage back in the late 90's because it didn't carry the API Service 'doughnut', I switched to Castrol, but these were petroleum oils. Now that everything is just around 100% synthetic, it's an entirely different ball game, and as he said, with marginal differences. I knew about Pennzoil's issues back in the 70's and 80's with regards to sludge caused by the naturally-occuring paraffin in oils from the State of Pennsylvania.
I have a lifter tap and I used super tech 10w-40 and it didn’t go away and I used mobil 1 10w-40 and it went away for a while and Royal purple is so far my favorite proven results it cleans the inside of your engine
FYI - SuperTech Engine Oil Filters are also good, which are comparable to Fram's Tough Guard. Been using them with Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 Synthetic Blend (Red Bottle) for years with zero issues. The key to long engine life is to use great products and follow the owner's manual guidance in regards to Engine Oil/Filter Change Intervals in accordance with respective operation environments (at the most), such as regular and severe conditions. Personally, I change both between 2,750 to 3,000 miles max without fail.
I won't touch anything fram unless its not my own vehicle, and only under another persons request. I wouldn't recommend using them either if you are, especially oil filters.
