Choosing the correct engine oil is critical to engine life with Pat Goss from Goss Garage 

Hey Pat, Just wanted to ask your opinion is on Amsoil Signature Series Synthetic Oil and Amsoil EA Filters?

Alex: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Can’t help you on that one because due to scary abusive comments and threats from some of the AM distributors over the years I have never tested their products. Sorry!Pat

So true, and yes we do change types and weights of oils on tired engines to keep the going a bit longer. But not on good engines as that can make a good engine tired. Pat

Jeeten: Thank you for letting me know, I appreciate it!Pat

Hi Deem: Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

Erik:Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

Absolutely right and a lot more great information but that’s a different story that we will do shortly. Pat

Thank you for watching! Pat

Mohammad: Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Pat

Scott: Yep, good product! Pat

Thank you very much!Pat

Mr S correct

Mobil 1 & Mobil 1 EP is an awesome all around full synthetic motor oil for ANY car or truck! Pennzoil Platinum is another very highly rated full synthetic. Use either with full confidence!

Yes... Mobil 1 and Valvoline have worked well for me.

Mr S i have used mobile 1 and castrol. Castrol does not come out as dark as the Mobile one during my 10k oil change.

Nesh Prasad I would guess it's not doing as good of a job removing carbon build up if it's coming out cleaner than the Mobil 1.

Thank you very much!Pat

Kyle, Glad it works for you! It’s highly unusual to see that much difference between oils. Pat

Jahan: Absolutely correct and if either require a change in viscosity it will be listed in the chart in the owner’s manual. If the manual lists one viscosity across the temp and service duty spectrum you would probably do well to stick with what the engineers recommend. Pat

That it true to an extent, if you are using your vehicle for AutoX or track racing sticking to the manufacturer oil might not be the best case scenario. The RU-vidr SavageGeese took his Scion FRS to the track with the manufacturer recommended oil (0w-20) and when with an additional oil cooler the temps skyrocketed and his oil pressure dropped drastically. I bring this up because maybe someone looking to take their car to the track should be informed how oil reacts above temperatures that the manufacturers state in the manual.

Could be, I don’t even try to generalize about specialty situations that require individual per case evaluation. So as far as I know you could be 100% right. According to some of the drives and pit crew members I’ve interviewed some race cars qualify on special 0 weight and run their 500 miles on 0W20 or 20 but I don’t know how common that is. Sorry but this is outside my field of expertise. Pat

I don’t subscribe to the idea that synthetics can be left in the engine for significantly longer periods of time as it is engine design (contamination, etc.) that determine oil life more than the oil used. Plus leaving oil in longer than required voids warranties.Pat

I couldn't have said it better myself. "IF" you go overboard and start measuring the abrasiveness and active ingredients remaining after oil changes you can find out how much life is left for your specific usage scenario and engine. How ever that will change over time as the engine wears and ends up being more expensive than just changing the oil with good oil every 3000 miles or what ever the manufacture recommends. After all, they already spent millions of dollars researching the best oil maintenance schedule for your car.

Not only don't you subscribe to the idea, the manufacturers of "synthetics"...at least Mobil and QS, the last time I looked, specifically so stated on their web sites. People see meaningless statements like "12,000 miles of protection" on containers and actually leave their car's oil in that long. Very foolish.

Hi Dyno:Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Pat

Hi Virginian: I am so glad you believe that. I just hope the vehicle manufacturer believes it if you have gone way past the maximum oil change intervals and have a normally warrantable claim. Yes, I know the requirements under the law for invalidating a warranty but legal and practical are vastly different. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

No where did I say to exceed the manufacturer's recommendations. Some manufacturer's have different recommendations for synthetic versus conventional oils.

Virginian:Sorry, I thought I was pretty up on oil change intervals and owner’s manuals but that’s something I have totally missed. Have never seen a different oil change interval spec for using synthetic in a conventional oil car. Thanks for the info I’ll look for it.Pat

Darksyne: If you 100% peace of mind on the product but not necessarily on the hands and brain installing the product. Pat

Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Pat

Adrian, Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

Clearance: You are so right. When I discuss maintenance I’m speaking to the driver who wants a minimum of a quarter million miles without major problems not the drivers who trade when the car needs tires.Pat

Sylvester: Thanks for watching and sharing! I wish more people would use their brains and perhaps old time myths like “thicker oil is better oil” would go away. Unfortunately way too many mechanics still believe and way too many drivers suffer the consequences of the bad information. Most of them mean well but their good intentions don’t lessen the shortened life of modern engines running on thick, gooey oil. Pat

Hi Zach: Thanks for watching and taking the time to correspond! I’m a bit puzzled as to your statement about the 2 oils being interchangeable because all my literature says they are not. Everything I come up with says 5W30 can be used if 5W20 is not available which in the automotive world is very different than either-or. API Certified ....................................................... SAE 5W-20 Meeting Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395. Refer to your oil filler cap for correct SAE grade. SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to MB 22931 or MB 229.51 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil is not available. As far as the heavier oil giving better protection that most likely is not the case for a number of reasons not the least of which is if it did it would be the primary oil not just one to be used in an emergency. Additionally what determines the proper oil for any given engine is how much space between moving parts is engineered in its design. In other words there is a small clearance between moving parts built into every engine. That clearance is for oil because all moving parts inside an engine move on a thin film of oil and never actually touch one another. If they do touch they are instantly damaged. Also that clearance between parts changes between hot and cold due to expansion and contraction of metal parts. How much clearance is there when the engine is cold determines the first number, in this case 5 weight. Then as the parts warm and metals expand the oil has to become thicker or in the case of your engine 20 weight. The trick is to match the oil viscosity to the space between moving parts at all temperatures. By changing to a thicker oil it can and usually does reduce the amount of oil that can move between the parts. Reduced flow means less lubrication but more importantly more heat. There is no coolant that touches the lubricated moving parts of an engine so every bit of cooling comes from the oil that passes between the moving parts rather than the coolant in the radiator. So less oil flow means less heat is dissipated and hotter moving parts means shorter life. Remember, that as technicians we can change oil in client’s cars a hundred times a day which will make us oil change experts but it will never give us the knowledge to become an oil engineer. Vehicle manufacturers employ hundreds of engineers to determine what oil works best. Then manufacturers perform millions of miles of testing to determine what works best. I don’t have that kind of resources at my disposal so I rely on the tens of millions of dollars of engineering and testing that has already gone into selecting the proper oil grade and viscosity by the manufacturer. Pat

NAT: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! In most cases you should be fine as far as the shelf life goes but that would bring up big red flags for me. Why has it been sitting so long? Hopefully you bought it from an individual not a business.Pat

Hi Lionel, Here is what our Alldata System shows: TYPE .................................... SF, SG (Motor Oil, API Service SF, SG) 1990-93: Above 68°F (20°C) ........................................................... 40 32° to 86°F (0° to 30°C) ...................................................... 30 Below 23°F (-5°C) .......................................................... 10W 14° to 50°F (-10° to 10°C) ................................................ 20W-20 Above 14°F (-10°C) .............................................. 20W-40, 20W-50 Above 5°F (-15°C) ............................................... 15W-40, 15W-50 -4° to 60° F (-20° to 15°C) ....................................... 10W-30, 10W-40 Below 14°F (-10°C) ................................................ 5W-20, 5W-30 1981-89: 68° to 104°F (20° to 40°C) .................................................... 40 32° to 86°F (0° to 30°C) ...................................................... 30 14° to 86°F (-10° to 30°C) ........................................ 20W-40, 20W-50 14° to 50°F (-10° to 10°C) ................................................ 20W-20 5° to 86°F (-15° to 30°C) ......................................... 15W-40, 15W-50 -4° to 50°F (-20° to 10°C) ........................................ 10W-30, 10W-40‡ -4° to 23°F (-20° to 5°C) .................................................... 10W -22° to 14°F (-30° to -10°C) ........................................ 5W-20, 5W-30 ‡10W-40 not recommended for 1986 models

ddanster: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Apparently it has worked well this long I would continue doing what has been proven to work on your car.Pat

Livsimple: Typically no! Not unless the owner’s manual allows it. You would typically be safe switching to 5W30 which would allow the oil to circulate faster following cold starts. But dropping the higher (hot operating temp number) could mean the oil “might not” (the only way you ever know that a swap like this doesn’t work is when it damages the engine and then it’s too late) be able to properly fill the space between moving parts leading to more wear. Pat

Hi Green: Better use it if you have a GM that requires it! Fortunately nearly all major brands now meet the Dexos standard so just look on the back of the bottle for the qualification before buying. Pat

Deekay: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! I have no way of knowing, as there are no tests to confirm or deny the claims. Mobil inhouse testing or sponsored testing does not qualify as it isn’t completely independent. But like Mobil says in their disclaimer: Mobil 1™ Annual Protection motor oil has been tested and proven to provide outstanding performance and engine protection for one year or 20,000 miles, whichever comes first. However, to help ensure continuation of your manufacturer’s new car warranty while using Mobil 1 Annual Protection motor oil, we recommend the following: • If your vehicle is covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle’s oil life monitor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner’s manual to avoid a disruption in your vehicle warranty. • Follow the oil change interval in your owner’s manual if your vehicle is operated in any of the following severe service conditions: racing or commercial applications including taxis, limousines, etc.; frequent towing or hauling; extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or under excessive idling conditions. They also have all kinds of limitations in their product warranty that would make it nearly impossible for any normal person to be reimbursed if they had an engine failure.---Personally I tend to follow the manufacturers’ recommendation as they have the best handle on how much blow-by and acid contamination occurs in their particular engine. No matter how good the oil none of them give adequate protection once they are filthy. Pat

I don’t know the year or which engine but most later model Toyotas use either 0W20 or 5W20 for all temperature ranges. But to be sure check the chart in your owner’s manual. Pat

Hi Dennis: Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment! I’ll put it on my list of topics seeing as how nearly every engine is now using low tension (friction) piston rings. What we are finding though is that most of the problem comes from deposits that cause the rings to stick. We have had great success using the BG products performance oil change (goofy name great service. Basically an engine flush) that removes the deposits. We have been able to improve both Honda and Cadillac from a quart ever 75 to 150 miles to one quart every 2K to 3K miles. Of course only on engines that aren’t broken.Pat

Thanks for responding, I am eagerly waiting for that episode, keep up the good work.

Hi Big: Thanksfor watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Depends on how long the hi mileage oil has been in the engine, If it has only been a few hundred miles you may be okay draining and refilling with non-hi- mileage. If it has been in for a while though you may be stuck with using it for the rest of the vehicle’s life. You could leave it in till the next oil change then put non-hi oil but don’t be surprised if it burns or leaks oil. The hi-mileage oil has more seal swellers which makes good seals too tight and causes them to wear in to the more tight posture. Take the seal swellers away and the seals are now too lose and you have oil consumption. I normally recommend that once it has been done you stick with it! Pat

Hi Luke: My manual shows the following: 1991 Toyota Corolla Sedan L4-1587cc 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE) API Grade: SG multigrade or better and recommended viscosity SAE. Use the chart below to determine SAE viscosity by temperature range anticipated before next oil change: Temperature Range ................................................... Viscosity Above 0°F ................................................................ 10W-40 Above 0°F ................................................................ 10W-30 50° F and Below .......................................................... 5W-301991 Toyota Corolla Sedan L:4-1587cc 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE) Pat

Typically, if there is a need for a different viscosity based on ambient temperature there will be a chart in the owner’s manual explaining which viscosity for which ambient temperature. That is now mostly gone away due to the more precise machining of engines. Too thick or too thin can affect engine wear and cause problems with variable valve timing systems etc. So unless the owner’s manual gives an alternate oil to use under special conditions stick with the primary recommendation. Pat

Thanks

I would never have gone to the “high mileage” oil until the engine had a problem because once you make the change there often is no going back because it causes wear on seals. I also would never go to 50 weight oil in any engine (unless specified in the owner’s manual and I don’t know of any that do) unless the engine was terminal and you were trying to hold it together for another few hundred miles or it had been highly modified for racing. Thick oils increase oil pressure but can significantly reduce oil flow through the engine’s oiling system. This means less lubrication and less cooling so parts run hotter and the hotter parts run the shorter their life. But you’ve already done it so I guess continue??????? Who knows maybe there was already enough wear that it will work. Good luck, I hope it works!Pat

I understand. I guess I will use a high mileage thinner oil like 5w-30. In the past I got the wrong advise. even though I feel good power on the engine yet. Thank you very much for the accurate information. Luis.

Luis: I wouldn’t make too many changes. What you’re doing has worked so far and although it doesn’t match normal practices if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and apparently it ain’t broke.Pat

Steven: Never heard of the brand but because it is Dexos approved it should be reasonably good. Most private label oils are simply name brands packaged in the alternate brand’s containers. As long as the certifications are as required you should be fine. Often the difference in price is due to the lack of advertising which costs a lot of money for the major brands and that is calculated into the wholesale price the business pays. Of course if the business pays more they have to sell it at a higher price. I doubt anyone has seen a pricey Harvest King network ad like you see constantly from the big names. Pat

I would like to say no but we have seen old oil that has separated during storage. Problem is I have no idea how long it would take and simply shaking old oil vigorously should bring everything back. I don’t think, other than separation, there is any degradation of oil in a sealed container. Open oil is a different story as moisture can get to it just like it does in the engine crankcase.Pat

Harkeerat: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! I would probably use 10W30 in a product like: Castrol EDGE is available in the following grades: 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-30 A3/B4, 5W-30 C3, 5W-40, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel, 5W-50, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 10W-60

Hi Magus: So was Royal Purple, Valvoline, and many others. But with respect to the brand you mention (I will not write the name) I have had such horrific experiences with the people who represent it that I will have nothing to do with what is a fine product. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

I would begin by finding a shop that can do a BG Performance oil change before changing oil viscosity. The BG Performance oil change is a really silly name for what is essentially a high end engine flush that actually cleans deposits from the piston rings. We have performed this service on Hondas and Cadillacs that were burning a quart of oil every 75 to 100m miles and have usually been able to drop that to a quart every 1 to 2 thousand miles which is often within new car specifications. www.bgfindashop.com Once that’s done switch to a High Mileage oil but still use the 5W20 as heavier oil will not significantly slow oil consumption and it will add wear to the bearings, cam, etc. Pat

Yes --- 5K but based on today’s oil quality even conventional oils would last that long. Has to do with the quality of the additive package and today’s additives are much better than 20 years ago.Pat

Sergio, Don't fix what isn't broke. High mileage oil is a confusing mislabeling of product. High mileage oil is specifically for oil burning issues, so as you say you don't have an oil burning problem it's not for you.

Mannaf: First you have to define what too much is and then if it is indeed too much you have to determine if it is a valve seal or guide issue or oil control ring problem. Once you know the cause you can develop a plan for correction.Pat

G: Or go back to high mileage oil which is far and away he less costly option. It might be a long time before the seals wear enough that the high mileage oil can’t keep things under control. But had the high mileage oil not been used too early you would wait until the problem occurred and then switch to high mileage and get a lot more total miles. Pat

Hi Brian: Thanksfor watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! My book shows: SAE 5W-30 BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil Typically I would use Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic. Pat

Pexman: I’m relatively certain it won’t hurt anything on a car with that many miles. Pat

Goss' Garage - Auto Repair & Maintenance, Lanham - Seabrook Maryland Thank you very much Sir!

PEXMAN I DO THE SAME.I GOT 195000 MILES.HEARD THICKER WILL HELP.

rezowanul: Sorry but I don’t have a listing on that model so I can’t look it up! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

As long as the engine doesn’t burn or leak oil and you haven’t used oil marked “high mileage” there should be no problem what so ever!Pat

The Motorcraft oils, which you can buy at Ford and Lincoln dealerships, are available in synthetic blend and full synthetic versions. The oil that you purchase at the dealer is very price competitive with the auto parts store prices. I use the Motorcraft full synthetic 5W-30 in my 2015 Taurus SHO.

John Costlow 5-30 or 5-20 is fine! use any name brand oil like penzzoil, mobil 1 etc and dont use synthetic in ur vechicle its noy designed for it

Mobil1 IS synthetic oil and you recommended it to him to use yet you tell him not to use synthetic oil bc his engine is "supposedly" not designed for it. That is FALSE. You can use synthetic oil in any engine except 2 cycle engines and the old Mazda rotary engine.

John Costlow yes you should switch back because for one reason you have a vehicle with over 189k and 5w20 might be to light for a worn out motor at 189k, where as 5w30 might have that extra density to not allow the engine to wear out even more.

***** no that is false you shouldnt use synthetic oil in an engine that its not specified, not good for seals, and the orfacies inside the engine! And i was giving an example to only use big brands of oil, i know mobil 1 is only synthetic but if i said like exxonmobil as an example people wouldnt understand lol

Joe: I suggest you call one of the amazing but true shows because you are indeed driving a miracle. Pat

Joe G If you run burning issues, pop open the oil cap, stick some mcDonalds fries, and that will seal those gaps.

Jspr: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Wish I could help you but I have never tested that product --- sorry!

Hi E:Understand the reasoning and it makes sense. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

Hi pj: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it! Folks keep in mind that the comment is solely pj’s not mine. In my world, it isn’t possible for oil to significantly change the amount of dirt, acid, moisture and blow-by an engine produces. Also extending the change interval could be detrimental to warranty coverage. Pat

Humman: Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

J: I never said that in any form and am not saying that now either. Pat

Goss' Garage - Auto Repair & Maintenance, Lanham - Seabrook Maryland

Rick: Thanks for the input but I’m seriously confused! I thought I said 6 months and never more than 1 year? If not I must have been brain-dead because I’ve been saying the same thing for 2 or 3 years now. As far as taking hours to explain things like this, yes I could but no one would listen. Besides I’m not trying to teach engineering, just trying to give folks who don’t understand cars some basic information to help them get more life out of their cars. I appreciate your thoughts. Sincerely, Pat

Pat maybe I need to watch it again but i thought you said to refer to your owners manual.

That may be what I said so I would be politically correct. But most owner’s manuals these days say not more than 12 months so if I did it’s essentially the same thing. I usually ask legal about certain phrases and such just to make sure I’m not opening a can of worms with manufacturers. In less public venues I say never more than 1 year but 6 months is best. Pat

Pat i think you know it all starts from the day you get you vehicle that the way you take care of it. I drove my truck and other vehicles that I own 500 miles then change the oil with reg oil. then i drive it another 500 miles and change it again, then 1,000 miles and change it again then another 1,000 miles and change ti again. Then another 1,000 miles and change to 100% Synthetic oil. after that I watch the mileage and change accordingly In the winter I use 0 W 30 or 20 depending on how cold a winter they say we may get here in Beautiful Baltimore Maryland. in the summer I change over to a 0 W 40 for the summer. If I need to add any I add the thinner oil in the winter and even the thinner 0 W 30 or 20 in the summer. This year I have not needed to add for the summer but with the heat I would add a 0 W 40 if needed so Like I said it is more to it than most people think to keep it going and on the road. My truck runs like a top at 183,00 miles ans 23 years old. Thanks for the ear. Rick Mahoney

Thanks for the update! You are entitled to your own opinion for sure. However having been in today’s engine plants (which are amazingly clean and dust free) I wouldn’t recommend that anyone waste so much money on a modern car. To do all those oil changes on some cars could cost several hundred dollars what with 8, 9 or more quart sumps of mandatory synthetic oil plus a lot of labor to remove underbody shields, etc. I would also never advocate going above the recommended oil viscosity on modern engines which are often built much different than your older engine. Changing viscosity can alter the performance of VVT systems which can lead to “Check Engine” lights and poor performance. Back in the day I might have agreed with you on some of your points though. Pat

You’re right because that’s a different story. As we go a long with the videos I’ll discuss fluid types and ID symbols, etc. there’s a lot to that these days. Pat

Goss' Garage - Auto Repair & Maintenance, Lanham - Seabrook Maryland ....A mention of good old STP $1.76 oil treatment may be prudent too. Zinc doesn't have to cost a fortune for older cars.

B: Back in the day that would have worked just fine but because new cars can’t have zinc additives the STP Material Safety Data Sheet shows no zinc. So believing that you’re zinc protected on old flat tappet engines could leave you with a worn cam and lifters. CHEMICAL EXPOSURE LIMIT Mineral Oil 5 mg/m3 inhalable TWA ACGIH TLV 5 mg/m3 TWA OSHA PEL Zinc alkyl dithiophosphate None Established Branched alkylphenol None Established Credit: The Armor All/STP Products Company 39 Old Ridgebury Road Danbury, CT 06810 Pat

Hi T: You’re the man, I guess I should bow to your greater expertise and years of experience! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment (even if misguided), I appreciate it! Pat

Doug: Thanks for sharing how you feel. Pat

Hi David: Still getting your information on stone tablets I see! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!Pat

Pathetic.. you cant even retort to the context of one's contentions.

David: Sorry about that but there is nothing to discuss or reply to when a statement is without merit!Pat

Hi Tommy: I’m sure some do know more than I do and what I offer is not for them but for the ones that don’t know more than I do. Fail to see how I bashed any DIYers though!Pat

Hi Doug:Thanks for your comments.Pat

I’m not sure what getting dark has to do with oil quality but if you say so!

Hi Joseph: I have zero idea what you’re saying but whether I am or am not an engineer (you might be surprised) makes no difference as the folks who specify the products are and that’s what I do and advise drivers to do --- follow the advice of the folks who designed the engine not the guy who changes oil. Changing oil can make a tech an expert at changing oil but of and by itself will never make that person an expert on stepping outside manufacturer’s recommendations. Thanks for watching and commenting! Pat

And yes that is Cuban Castro.

Tanner: Couldn’t have said it better myself! Pat