Ok.. when filling gaps with a mig setup.. use 6010 rod.. knock the flux off the rod with a hammer and use it as a filler in the joint when your welding.. don’t hit the rod with direct heat.. angle the tip from the metal towards the rod from both sides.. run a stinger down both ends to the rod then cap it with a weave.. Stinger is a basic vertical only bead moving just one direction.. the weave is how you were welding moving back and forth between each piece.. just FYI if you don’t know the difference.. a stronger is stronger as it penetrates deeper and a weave is prettier. But when filling gaps it takes both unless going for extreme strength then it’s stronger over stronger which is overkill for this and takes 2-3x as many passes to cover the same ground with a lot of time grinding in between to remove flux buildup. The 6010 rod will act like a beige metal while also at the same time being a weld. Welds are stronger then metal so this is the ultimate in strength for filling minor gaps up to 1/4” or so.. beyond that I’d cut metal and bridge it properly with tabs. In this application though to be honest the inside and outside verticals joints are all the strength. Top and bottom is worthless. Welds are strong on opposing stress. Any stress to that area will be vertical so the verticals welds are all that matter.. the horizontal top and bottom will only add a little in tweets from left to right off camber stuff. So really the areas you were originally concerned with are of zero consequence to intended use.. Tbh wouldn’t even be concerned with welding the tops or bottoms I’d leave them open and gusset the cross member inside to the frame rails with 3x3 1/8” Add edit.. stringer not stinger weld..
![Tacoma Solid Axle Swap [Part 6] - Crossmember Removal](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
