Last word: do not buy a replacement rack online if it requires a core return. PartsGeek doesn't not help with return shipping which was $103 for me. Advance has the same unit for $137 after core return to the store. So Basically I burned myself for $324.
Ok, having done this a second time after buying a good re-man rack, I caution to check for ANY play in the telescoping steering shaft. ANY looseness will translate into an inch or more of steering wheel play. I put mine on an anvil and beat the play out 9f it with a 5# hammer. When it comes back I may buy a new shaft - but that is money.
Excellent video. That's a great technique how to line up that vertical middle bolt by using the opposite end bolts to slightly tighten them until the middle bolts just drops straight down into the hole. I know people struggle with that bolt putting the rack back together. Also, damn there's still a lot of steering slop coming from somewhere, after you finished the rack job! Maybe tie rod ends? I know my tie rod ends wore out at about 250K miles. I'm about to do my steering rack bushings and I'm at 292K miles now.
Got the motor mount cut and cleared - PITA. All done except for the cooler - yep, you need a fluid cooler. Follow the instructions and it will work. Alignment was an issue for me. I finally had to remove 1/4" from the passenger side inner and outer tie rods. As noted: stiff wheel just off center. And if you have steering shaft slop this won't fix it. Get a new one. And do not disconnect the steering shaft unless the steering wheel is locked in place...I knew better and still broke it: don't know? You will.
Would love to see you come out with a video showing it in real time. Would love to hear how it sounds and what the ratios look like while crawling not just on paper.
bushings on my 2006 tundra were in bad shape so they came out with finger, passenger side d bracket top bolt was stuck bad, realized it extends out in back, had to spray PB in back too, came out in 2 sec, used grease for new bushings, putting back rack and lining up with hole was hard, definitely need pry bar
I did the 63 swap on my 98' ext cab and Im having an issue where the back of the truck sits about 2" taller than the front. Is there a way to get the back of the truck to sit lower besides adding a ton of weight? Also, I have some driveline vibration. Did you experience this? Cheers man, informative video!
Exactly what needs to be done on my 96 single cab. Thing has the turning radius of a squarebody crew cab F150 and 1.5" of play even with all new everything (except box and pump) steering related.
Yes, one for the back half that will get a different input shaft. And a second case to use the planetary gears inside of the billet housing they provide.
@egtallday sorry for the slow reply, the total length of the dual case setup is approximately 19.25". That is from the front mounting surface where it mates to the transmission, to the surface of the rear output flange.
Did you have to do anything to your synchros when re-assembling the case? The insctructions call for removing them or aligning them before putting the case backtogether but at 35:38 you slap it together with no issues.
Thanks for the response, I am gonna ignore that part of the instructions then and try to put it back together without touching the synchro's, that seemed like an unnecessary portion of instructions @@Trav74r
Clear video! If I only wanted to replace the split bushing on the passenger side, can I remove the 2-19mm bolts? Would there be enough play to put the new bushing in?
hey man your skills dont lie! I like how you review what you're doing and the intent behind them, double thumbs up for proper engineering/mechanical lingual and taking your time to record all this to tease our eyes 🤣🤙
I did it on my 99, very happy with it. The only major difference to get used to is the tall ratio. For the first while I found myself turning in way tighter than intended.
Wondering how the clocking came out when installed in the truck? Did you have to beat the floor with a sledge at all to get it to fit? Any feedback would be helpful as I just ordered and will be trying to go full clocked as you did. Thank you 🤙🏼
So you need two transfer cases to make this work, plus the stuff from NWF? I thought you needed one transfer case (the one in your truck) + the NWF stuff = dual transfer case…?
I don't know the answer to that. I'm not sure if these cases can be made to accommodate transfer cases from a 3rd gen. If there is a way, it's likely with the rear case being the stock unit. So it would probably still shift with the button/knob on the dash. However you would still need the lever for the front case to be accessible either with a cable or through the floor.
@@Trav74r oh ok cool. The website has the parts for the 3rd gen and you’d use a donor case from a 1st gen tacoma or 3rd gen forerunner, but Im assuming you’d just shift the additional case with the levers and keep the electrical like you said.
Awesome video, thanks for being the first to get this info out there. This is definitely on the wish list. Semi-related, you mentioned the push button tcase in your Taco, how did you trick the ECU to think you’re in 4 when you did the SAS? I have a push button in my 4R that I’m about to SAS and I’m trying to think of a way to get the ECU to “see” the front actuator/sensor. Just splice in a relay maybe?
Thanks for watching. Honestly I didn't do anything. Just left the plug for the old front ADD system disconnected. So for a long time I didn't have a 4wd light come on at all. The actuator on the back of the t-case still engaged, just no light confirmation on dash.
@@Trav74r Solid. I’ll burn that bridge when I get to it but at least I know it’ll work until I figure out a solution. Your series on the SAS has been super helpful, much appreciated for posting the process
You have to remove the computer and hook up a relay in its place, at least that’s what I had to do. Was able to get 4wd and dash lights to work. Lmk if you want me to tell you what wires I used.
@@jmik09 not sure what year you have, I’m running a 2000 limited (wire colors might slightly vary from year to year). Here are the wires I used: grey, green w/ red strip, light green, green w/black strip, green w/white strip, black w/ white strip, and black w/ blue strip. These are wires all going to the computer in the driver side kick panel, you have to remove the computer to do this. If you’re just trying to make the lights come on the 2x wires for the lights are green w/ black stripe and green w/ white stripe, I think the wire that actuates the add is the grey wire. If you have a different year and your wire colors are different I highly recommend just looking for a wiring diagram and deciphering it.
Awesome video man💯🫡 im working on the same setup, but a vf4 and this video answer all my questions. Again, keep up the great work and hope to see another that covers how you did your floor for the shifters.
Sorry for not watching the whole series but … are Is it possible to weld the spring perches 31.5” apart to fit the full size axle swap kit from sky’s off road ?
@@Trav74r Nice thank you Is the axle a 61.5” wide Tacoma size Or is it the +5” size axle ? I want to do the same I’m just not sure if the Tacoma size 61.5 axle allows for the spring perches to be 31.5” spread apart.
@@4lownslow the rock assault axle I used is the widest they made (best of my memory). I thought that it was considered the Tacoma width. However the axle is closer to 63" WMS, not 61.5. I ended up running 1.5" spacers in the rear to make the factory 60" rear axle match the new front.
@@4lownslow actually you may be right. I'm going off what I can remember. I went with Tacoma width rock assault that is like 60" wide. Then I also did the IFS hub swap to pick up adding extra 1.5" on each side. Giving me a total of 63" WMS. So yes you can use the Tacoma width and run a 31.5" spring perch center.
By the way @travis’ shop do you happen to have the donnor part out that 3rd vf2 transfer? Just looking to see if I can get donnor parts instead of having to get a full vf2. Cheers!
@@charliesfowllife2335 that's a tough question to answer. I used VF2 cases. Both were manual shift from 3.4L V6 vehicles. My understanding is that all chain driven cases are in the VF family. I think that the VF 1, 2 & 4 have to do with it being a 4cyl vs 6cyl vs 8cyl or all wheel drive vs 4wheel drive. You will have to do some research on your own to get better info.. You can find some more info from the website about these eco-crawler cases in this link: northwestfab.com/products/ecocrawler
@@Trav74r does it matter if it’s a 5 speed or auto trans? I have 2 chain driven cases both out of 98 Tacoma’s with a 5speed. I guess they are vf2? I have been looking for info all over. I’ll check out that site thanks!
@@charliesfowllife2335 No that doesn't matter, cases can be used from a manual or an auto truck. My understanding is that there are couple internal pieces missing in a push button 4wd case (what I took out of my truck) that are in a manual j shift transfer case. I believe it's the internal shift forks, as the push button is actuated from a electric motor on the back of the case, instead of the shift handle in the cab.That's why I used two j shift cases. So that may be a thing to watch out for. Also be aware that cases from a 2.7 cyl are 21 spline input vs the 23 spline behind a V6. So that may matter depending on what you are bolting it to. If you are interested in this dual case setup, the guys that make it are very helpful and knowledgeable as well. I spoke with them on the phone a few times before I ever ordered.
@@chrishenry5945 I am currently running 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers. I set the truck up to fit 37's in the front, but would just need to clearance the fenders in the rear to make them fit.
The pitman arm came from a trail gear high steer kit. You can select from either a flat arm or a drop arm. The individual pitman can be purchased here. trail-gear.com/steering/toyota-pitman-arm.html
Thanks. Felt like a tough video to make, since it's a lot to cover and kinda boring. But I was sure someone else would want to see how it went together.