This exercise took me several hours, and I have tools and am no novice. One should know that I watched quite a few RU-vid videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender. Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one). So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on. I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!! So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me. Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Frfr. I was laying all on my engine trying to get that ish off. Then the filter didnt come off with it so i got pin wrench and bent it a slight angle to grab it and i finally got it.
Idk if I'll be able to get my gorilla hands back there, but it's good to know that it's not totally impossible without pulling the manifold. Worst case I'll enlist some smaller hands lol
@@DetroitFlip5680 More likely the O ring is hard and cracked. Either way the oil pump has to come out unless you drop the pan. If it's old just get the timing chain replaced with the oil pump. Mine died at 242k and I'm putting in a used motor. ;-)
