Shouldn’t need to if you let the glue fully set before folding the leather over, and make sure you crease the edge as that will also help fix it in place. If you’re worried about it coming apart you can absolutely always through a line of stitches in it. Just be careful not to pull the thread too tight as the leather is super thin and can rip if you stitch it too tightly
Great video Will 👍 One clarifying question: when you say beveled skive, do you mean that is slopes down to 2mm or is it like a cliff where it drops down. Hand skiver over here 😬
Bevel is a term that is used to denote a flat edge at an angle to the original. Think knife blade. The sharp cutting edge is beveled (on one side for Japanese, otherwise both sides) and the bevels join to create the sharp edge. He’s suggesting making the bevel taper from full thickness to 0.2mm at the edge of the leather.
Great video! Any tips on how to get a clean cut off the bevel skive? I get inconsitent tears and waves especially with softer leathers on my bell skiver.
Great video! I'm working on getting better at these. How do you feel about double-sided tape for the adhesive contact? It's what I'm using right now only because i wanted to minimize any mess, but the masking tape barrier looked interesting. Also will a roller work just as well on the sealing the back?
Earlier this year i made a leather jacket our of chrometanned, aniline calfskin, and i also turned the edges. I didnt skive it because the leather was thin (1.0-1.2mm). But after a very short time, the leather began to tear on some parts of the edges. Is there any way to prevent this? i dont have a skiving machine tho.
Thanks for watching, I purchase my filetuse from proatelierplus.com if you’re in the UK. If you’re in the US, I’d recommend www.amblardleatheratelier.com/collections/tools
@@WillHodges Blimey. Not cheap, eh? I’m a Yorkshire lass, I had to go have a lie down! Might have to Cary on with my sub £10 wooden creaser for the time being. Thanks
