I have converted my tandem from double to single side drivetrain. I ended up using chainring bolts intened for double crankset with bash guard(longer at 10mm), and used 1.3mm spacers to push out the stoker timing chainring outwards. This eliminated the timing chain and drive chain from colliding/touching at all, even during shifting. All this was done because I wanted to use different length cranks for both the captain and stoker, but didn't want to purchase expensive tandem specific crankset. This also opened up the market for me on crank selection. I ended up using a triple crank for the stoker and used it as a double. And using a double crank for the captain and using it as a single.
For a time, we ran SSD 2x Di2 on our road tandem (also a Calfee), with a rather wide Gates CDX timing belt on the very outside position. Shifting the FD up to the big ring is a bit of risk because for a second, some of the chain links ride up on the top of the teeth and somewhat over to the outside, which can lead to contact with the timing belt (or worse a timing chain). It is a bit sketchy and you need to be super careful about your FD shifting otherwise you can badly snag your drive chain with your timing chain which will put a bad load into your ECC. We never broke or badly damaged our belt, but did have a couple entanglement episodes with that setup. We went back to a 3x drive and the typical lefthand timing to ensure 100% no-risk, plus more range. I think one of the first SSD setups I saw was posted on Calfee's photo gallery. However feedback from Craig suggested it had some issues (per above) and not really ready for prime time. My experience confirmed this. SSD will be perfectly fine when running a 1x setup for a mtb tandem. Plenty of people doing this without issues - no FD.
Thanks for the advice with detailed explanation! Definitely something to watch out for. We haven't had any such issue. Our setup is an 11 speed rear with a 10 speed timing chain. Another variable I missed earlier (when responding to you on Facebook) is our timing ring also has an outward offset (needed to fit the 30T to 104BCD) which probably helps quite a bit too. I'll take a look, maybe worth a follow up video 😊.
Im planning to build diy tandem bike with an 2 old mtb steel frame (26er). Then change it into 27.5 wheelsize with a thin tires, The drive train is one side and the captains crank is 1x and the stoker is 2x and the cassette is 10speed. In short hybrid tandem bike.
Quick question: Why do tandem bikes have their pedals in line? Wouldn't it be better if the rear pedals were 90 degrees to the front? That way, one rider would always be providing power on the downstroke.
From my reading I’ve seen most people recommend in phase or 90 degrees out of phase like you suggested. Personally I’ve only tried in phase or variable out of phase (independent coasting). The reason why I haven’t tried a fixed offset has to do with knowing where the pedals are as the captain. If you’re cornering or trying to avoid an obstacle, if you’re out of phase then you have to account for that. I found that the pedals not being synced felt less stable, especially when standing. When my stoker is in phase I didn’t feel as if I was fighting the shifts in their body weight. Maybe if the offset was fixed it would be okay, but it was quite difficult with the independent coasting. If you try mountain biking with the 90 offset and like it let me know. I’d be curious to hear how it goes.
From my 10000 kms experience on tandem (Portugal) I say that pedals in phase are crucial to start motion on steep climbs (or sand, for example) and they help to keep rythm on climbs. We've never tryed 90º, but sometimes the chain jumped out and we rode a few kms with a slight degree difference, it was horrible.
Tried it, didn't like it. Cornering is trickier, as someone else posted climbing out of the saddle is harder. Also, the pedal stroke was not as smooth. The disadvantages outweighed the pros for us!
I disagree with what you say about twisting forces on the stokers bottom bracket on the Calfee. Your Salsa has all of the torque on one side, and the frame is not asymmetrical to handle the torque on one side. The smaller chain rings are also directing more force to the bottom brackets.
Cool stuff man. Nice Calfee!!! (and Salsa lol) I'm pretty sure our next tandem will have a single side drivetrain. (Btw this is #tandemadventurers posting from my other channel) Cheers
@@DoubleTroubleTandem Haha well I really like that Salsa too 😉 But that's like comparing a Humvee to a Ferrari LOL Nice stable of bikes you have there. I LOVE MTB too (especially on the tandem), I just need to get my stoker to enjoy it as much as I do (so far she much prefers pavement and gravel). So we have our bike set up to handle pretty much any terrain or surface...
@@DoubleTroubleTandem Nice. Our rigid steel Raleigh weighs 48 without any water bottles or accessories. I haven't weighed it ready to ride but my guess is its about 53-54 lbs.
Hi there-- I have a question, I have a 19702 or so tandem with tube shifting paddles, and I want to convert to Sti modern-day shifters such as ultegra. Do you think this would be a possibility or any blockers come to mind right away?
Yep, both cranks are 3x rear and front are both timing chain on the 64bcd. Front gets a bash guard on one side of the 104 BCD (doesn’t matter what side). Rear cranks have the driving chain ring on center and could also have a bash guard on the outside, if needed (the Ridebo doesn’t have one because you can’t bash the rear ring)
If you want to do a 3x drive train then you pretty much have to go left side timing chain. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a tandem equipped with left side timing chain, except if it was a mountain bike I’d be worried about damaging it then needing to try and replace it quickly.
