PRO TIP: Never guess at a corner. I measure 10 inches from one corner, make a mark... Then measure from the other side to that mark. Much more accurate than guessing.
I've always used the +10 ( or + whatever measurement works best). I also use a KM stick if I have to take several measurements against inside corners: KM= Known Measurement. Take a good solid piece of any material that you can easily carry with you and cut to appropriate known measurement (10", 1', 3', etc.), place the KM stick into inside corner and measure to the end of the KM stick from the opposite target, add the the KM stick length and there's your measurement. Especially excellent when working under house/crawl space/in attics/etc. I frequently used KM sticks (PVC pipe pieces) as long as 10' for measuring to distant foundation walls when prepping under-home vapor barriers.
Black diamonds--->Truss layouts... I never use them laying out trusses (mainly because I'm a custom builder not a track home builder and I very rarely use trusses). It was used to lay out 5 trusses per an 8'span. 96" divided by 5 is 19.somethung... Also that's an awesome trick with the layout in 4 equal parts by using any number divisible of 4 on a diagonal.... When the vid first started and u said 99.9 % of us would learn I thought man I've been swinging a hammer longer than I've been walking with my dad, what's he gonna show. Sure enough u taught me something...
Did this comment post, is anybody out there. Can u read this, because every time I went to sent the comment it said 'There was a problem sending your comment'...So, I'm just curious if it posted. I've only left positive comments in his comment section I wouldn't think he would block me....???
A Carpenters Pencil should be sharpened to a flat chisel point so it thin to draw lines but broad to avoid snapping on rough timber that is why it is that shape. I learnt this as an apprentice back in the 50's.
If you can be consistent with your method, go right ahead. If not then it needs correction. Otherwise let it be. I've manged a lot of green horns and it sounds like you are just micro managing. If you are looking at pencil tips im guessing you either arent getting much done or you are just repeating some horseshit from shop class. Do what works for you. Lower your nose.
0.1% here, and I can thank my dad, uncles and grand fathers for knowing all the pro tips. Lee Valley Tools sell a tape that you can write on the side, and on the tape itself, and it has a built in pencil sharpener. www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=71705&cat=1,43513 Back in the day a lot of carpenters, especially cabinet or furniture makers did not use a tape/ruler they used what is known as a Story Stick or Storey Pole. It was a piece of thin, straight wood that you would mark the various dimensions onto, no need for fractions and numbers, just mark the story stick, that is how long it is. They would keep the story sticks for say a desk, and if they want to make another, they have all the dimensions on the story sticks. It is a very useful technique. www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/story-sticks Domo
I also think the fat max tapes are the best , they are so much easier to read than most . Black diamond is for truss sheeting , and the red numbers are for stud spacing . I also liked that you added the ruler and yard stick . I find them of great use for small jobs around the shop . Thanks for the video
When we make a 'V' mark for a measurement, we draw one leg straight and one leg angled. You make the cut on the angled side of the line, to compensate for the blade width.
That still gets me when using the carpenters square. I do the first on the mark but each next one i cheat by a 16th so i don't end up cutting 22 1/2 blocks at 22 1/4 because then your ponys are all leaning.. Learned that the hard way
Black diamonds are for laying out roof trusses, on a scale of 6 diamonds every 8 feet or every 19.2" on center. Old standard was a truss every 24" on center but modern sheet goods aren't up to spanning that much distance. Another good tip: you can use the serrated edge of the hook to score drywall in a pinch (though a knife and T square will give you cleaner results).
+Wranglerstar Not necessarily sharing if there is more than one person working, but it is usually a good idea to compare the different tapes on the same board at the start of a job, to make sure they agree with each other.
Just sharing. First thing I was taught was measuring ceiling height. If you turn the tape and measure from the floor up along the internal wall corner, you can just slowly extend it to raise it up to the ceiling to get a rough height. This can work for up to 12' ceiling depending on your eyesight though. If you want accurate height just do that firsts and mark a certain height at eye level, then come down from the ceiling so they both meet at the mark and just add them up. I'm sure there are better ways but this has worked for me all along.
Check out the Kobalt tape measures that are double sided and have the magnet tip. The one I use also has a built in scribe on the bottom of the hook for marking your material. It's also the kind that you press the button to wind it back up, which I greatly prefer over the lock open kind.
The diamonds, many call them "truss markings". But in Canada, the are joist markings. The 3/4 inch floor sheeting is rated to a maximum of 24inch span. Or, 4 spaces (5 joists) for every sheet. But to shrink it up so it has more tolerance and not at it's "maximum" They use a spacing that is smaller than 24in, but bigger that the old standard, 16inch (6 spaces/7 joists). So they divided the 96inches by 5 spaces, to get a distance of 19.2 inches. Some people erroneously call it "19 1/4". But it's not. It's slightly smaller than that, and the fraction changes at each spacing. So it has to be a decimal number. Framers who have to use them a lot, refer to the system as "nineteen-two's", and sometimes they call out the numbers as "54 diamond" (or what ever number), meaning... mark it at the ninteen-two mark closest to 54.
I never had a faster tape to use than my Stanley Lever Lock 16'. But, I have milked my everyday user, a Stanley Power Lock 25' for the last 18 years, using it virtually everyday since then. The numbers and marks are wearing off, and the clip has been bent many times, but it still works!! Yes, I have newer ones, but I always reach for 'old faithful'.
At first I was like- I don't need a tape measure video, but then I thought, Why not, everything else is interesting. So then you were like 99.9% of you will learn something. I thought, I'll probably be .1% LOL- I was wrong! I use powerlocks, so I didn't realize fatmax clipped at the top as well, the way to measure equal parts is really ingenious, I've worked with hundreds of skilled tradesmen and can't believe no one showed this to me. And I knew the diamonds were a different layout, but I didn't realize they were for trusses until I read the comments. Incredible as usual! Thanks! (Btw- you should put together a special dvd explaining all these terms, tips and tricks, and sell it to businesses as a jump start training session for new guys to take home. A quick quiz at the end could be given, and guys would bring the video back with correct answers. Then they could teach the old dogs new tricks;)
The tapes are also available with Fractions written on the tape. I love these and threw all my other tapes away once I found the Fraction-marked tapes. I never was any good at figuring out the 5/8 mark or the 3/4, or the 3/8, etc. Now I can see the Fractions right on the tape. Did I say how much I love these Fraction-marked tapes?
I run my tape measure almost all the way out , and oil it once or twice a month . I think it helps . I use a light oil like 3n1 or rem oil , on a cloth . Granddaddy always greased the joints in his folding ruler . He used the kind that had a brass slide out scale . He would write his name in the grove for the slide out . I am proud of the old rulers with his name on them. I pull my tape out to about 12 feet or so and write my name on it . Your writing will not ware off as fast . Thanks
I enjoyed this video very much as I use a tape measure every day for work. I've watched almost all of your videos and thank you so much for each and every one. One thing I'd like to comment is the actual tape measure itself. I use a dewalt 25' tape as I found it to be my favorite, having two fat maxes myself. I like the dewalt because it has the easy to read 1/8th measurements throughout the entire tape measure. it's a little smaller than the 25' fat max which is helpful for me as it fits in my tool bags easier. Anyways, the point you make about using your knee and/or foot to extend the tape is a good idea in theory but if your on a ladder and easier way to do that, while keeping both feet on the ladder, is to just grab the tape, while bent, and extend it out with your hands. for example if my reach is 4 feet without bending and I'm measuring a 10' wall I'll just bend the tape in half and pull the tape out with my hands to about 12' so I don't use my feet or knees. nothing against your method once so ever. it's just if I were to do that on a job site, using my foot, it would be deemed unsafe. maybe try that out and let me know what you thing. another little trick is if your using a sharp carpenters pencil to make a strait line, if you measure 1/8th in. less then your measurement, assuming you have a strait starting edge such as a sheet of drywall, you can put the pencil against the end of the tape while the tape. is locked 1/8th in. less than your measurement and run the tape Long the strait edge while making your mark where you need it.
I guess I fall into the .01%. I've been a carpenter for 28 years. I even know what the black diamond is for. Having patted myself on the back, I say all that to say you are spot on! I primarily do interior finish work these days and prefer the Stanley classic 25'. I have heard that the carpenter pencils are made flat so if you lay them down or drop them they don't roll away.
What? No metric tapes? :-P Why is it we tend to gravitate to one tape over all others? My poor Powerlock is like 20 odd years old and beat to heck, but I tend to grab for it over new tapes every time. I need to just throw the stupid thing away...
+Tenspeed TheBikeHanger No don't throw it away, I have an old Starrett that I have used for years and its still better then any thing new.Nothing is better then an old buddy on the job when you are building something.
The small black diamonds, or triangles (diamonds are more commonly found), on the top scale of the tape measure starting at 19.2 inches are for truss layouts for 8-foot sheet goods. They are also known as the "black truss" markings. They provide a quick visual for the tape user and speed up the measuring process.
The black diamonds are locations for stud center locations in common buildings for proper spacing. (I think) Not sure I picked up stuff but the fact 30s don't last is good to know. Bought my fat max in middle school, still have it after college and love it!!! Had a pocket 12 for measuring trunk spaces when I was a loader for lowes, that was the best tool for the job since it was tiny but 16 and 25 are handy indeed.
When I was the cut guy on a framing crew the boss man had a Fat Max I had some off brand. Every one of my cuts was a 16th short for him. Moral of the story he bought me a Fat Max the next day.
As always, great video. Also can hang a Fatmax on vertical sheet of drywall as a sort of improvised plumb bob. Not bad for scratching hard to reach areas on your back when you have on several layers of winter clothing too. In our area lots of the framing help are Mexicans and they don't measure in 1/4" or 1/8" etc. they just count the long or short marks so 12 1/4" becomes 12 and one big.
I remember being on the job with my DAD when thay used hand saws no elct. tools .I still have my fathers folding ruler .when using A tape. , when U are realing your tape in U hold your finger on the bottom end of the case it acts as coshen and will not hit metal on metal
My Dad all way used the folding wood ruler! (Still have one of his around here) He was an electrician! Don't want a metal tape working with power. Yes he was very careful. But others may not be! Yes! I like the 25 wide tape. Yes! I work alone a lot! I'm no carpenter! Something has all ways stumped me. Maybe you can answer a question that comes up a lot. I cut a board two or three time and it still to short!!! LOL Thanks for a great video!
I love the Stanley fatmax I have a 16' 25' and a 30' I used during my framing days. However I have recently switched to the Milwaukee tape I find it to be far more versatile. If you are able to look at one next time your at your local lumberyard you may change your mind on your favorite tape.
The vertical drop of a ski slope per running yard = that # of black diamonds. I.e. single diamond run = first diamond on tape measure, second diamond on tape measure = double diamond run. (Just trolling for the negative feedback... hehe)
As a tin knocker for almost twenty years two tools I always have are my fat max 25' and my Lufkin inside read stick rule (for layout). New Fat Max comes with magnetic tip ,sticks to tin nicely.
Is the 19 inch measurement layout that used to be used instead of 16 in layout some plans will still call for this to be better than 16 but not as far out as 24
Not sure if this was already discussed but one more great feature of a tape measure is its ability to add and subtract. Let's say you want to add two numbers....20 and 40. Fold the tape over and place the 20" mark on the 40" mark and then read the end of the tape. It should be on 60". To subtract, fold the tape over placing the end of the tape on the larger value and then read the tape opposite of the smaller value. This tip works for any fractions and is great when a calculator is not handy.
A slide rule.. Our Uncle the Esssntial Craftsman taught me that.. My portuguese boss started yelling at me "ey caraljo wtf are you doing" but it worked like a charm.. How else do you less 23 1/4 from 104 5/8 quickly without being the rain man? (Dont say mark a board at the less value and then measure original length because i get it but its the exact same thing but youbdont always have a board..)
It's amazing, we could have grown up in the same house. I learned and did the same things with tape measures when I was a kid. I still remember my dad teaching me about tapes and rulers and how to treat your tools.
I am a trim carpenter and I hate the whole Fat Max concept. I admit that the long breakover is handy but I don't think it's worth it if I have to carry around a fat heavy tape all day. Also compare the printing on a Stanley to a cheep rule and the cheap one will usually have finer lines and less smudging. 12", 16", 19.2", and 24" are all common spacings for structural members like studs, trusses, or joists that divide evenly into 96". All of these distances except 19.2 are whole numbers so naturally they have there own mark. 19.2 doesn't have a mark so they give it a diamond. Makes me wonder what they do in metric land. Instead of attaching a piece of formica to the side of your tape (which works really well) just mark directly on the tape. I use a single straight line with a symbol like a triangle or circle at the top of the mark to help find the mark. Also if you need to write down a measurement or short note just flip the tape and write on the back. If you can't find an eraser spit and a little rubbing will erase old marks. I also use a "V" to make marks for the same reason as Cody stated but sometimes I miss on the first leg of the "V". That's okay as long as the first mark passes through the correct distance on the tape just swing the tape past the mark until the mark intersects the correct distance on the tape and make the second leg of your mark this will give you a mark that resembles a "Y" with the distance you want at the confluence of the two marks. Nothing beats a folding rule for measuring inside dimensions like door and window openings. Unfold it until it is just short of the distance, extend the brass bar out to touch the inside of the item being measured then carefully transfer the rule to the item being cut. Extreme accuracy from an old tool (I've been told that that's what they say behind my back) : ) I use a carpenters pencil for course measurements but I sharpen it to a chisel point for durability and accuracy. I recommend a 3H pencil for other markings on wood as they take a fine point that will last much longer than a 2H pencil.
I agree. The Fat Max is too fat and the brake isn't much good. It has standout and that is impressive but to achieve that the blade is curved to the point where it is ofen unsuable. Best tape I have is the Fisco.
Thanks for this Terry. This is the only diamond explanation that makes sense - clearly it's to help divide something that's 8 foot long (96 inches) into 5 equal pieces. Another mystery solved.
deviding dimensions haha I think you should use Metric Cody...You call it noncence... but deviding and calculate with it is most of the time simpeler...but I'm used to it....
metric lay out is the diamond system though some use it for rafter spacing so as to skimp on the wood strength integrity of a shed but it also allows for an 8 foot sheet goods like plywood osb or other types of any 8 foot to break evenly on the spacing of it...but unfortunately osb sheating only has thier lines on it at 12,16,& 24" centers so youll have to chalk line the difference if your going with the diamond setting layout. you can also use it for a stud layout as well. or anything that will break sheeting on the 8' mark.
I only use my Fat max for framing.. Too darn heavy for anything else.. I use he 16' lever lock, and carry it everywhere, all of the time. Always measuring something... Not too often over 16', but, that's me. I use them for carpenter work, and when they start getting a little worn on the edges (16ths hard to see in the 1-2" range), I move them to my metal work shop, where I don't use that short of measurements, then finish them off at the chop saw table, and send the to the grave yard drawer, where I usually end up putting them on the edge of something else.. I go through a good tape about once every 2 years or so. They are always in good shape, except the edges finally wear the measurements off at the last inch or two.. It's probably the way I pull them out, or let the retract.. I should pay a little attention to that. Hmm..
Yep, it was my droid turbo. Tried to post the comment a couple times. Then once I got on with the laptop I saw all of the same comments. Ill have to remember that. First time it ever happened.
Never had a fat max, but I've had pretty good service out of the top end Craftsman 25' tapes. Food for thought, this may not be an issue for most, but after losing a couple of good tapes, I've become accustomed to keeping several Harbor Freight tapes at the ready all over the garage, house, truck, etc. Kinda the same theory as Wranglerstar carrying a cheaper EDC knife as opposed to losing high end knives.
Since retailers are so anal about returning tapes these days, and Fat Max blades break every few months, the number one pro tip is this - When your blade breaks, pull out about four feet of it, and run a two foot bead of sub floor glue on the blade. Then, shove it back in. Leave a few inches sticking out. Once it dries, you can't pull it back out. Have your wife/girlfriend return it for you, because they won't question a woman regarding such things. They'll exchange it for a new one every time!
I like my DeWalt, has it shows the exact center of the board plus it has fractions marked right on the tape. BTY Stanley and DeWalt are the same company, but I am sure you knew that.
Thanks a million times for explaining the functionality of the sliding clip. I didn't realize I should compensate for the thickness of the clip while measuring inside corners. I always painstakingly held the clip open to get the measurement. Now, I am not annoyed by this function and can relax more. Thanks. 6:06 And then again at 10:30. You rule, sir. I will definitely use that method.
All I use are Stanleys. I use the plain 25 ft. 30 ft was to heavy, Fat Max's were to bulky. I carry a tape everyday. I have 6,8 12,16 and 25 s. I don't use but 1 tape measure 99% of the time. Just like the problem you and Mrs W ran into, I use the same tape to measure as I do to cut. 2 different tapes 2 different measurements most of the time. Just a habit of mine. I have a Stanley I have been carrying for 6 years and still accurate. Just recently bought a new one for a couple more years. The tip on dividing a piece was one that I was shown 30 years ago and forgot how he explained it, thanks for refreshing my memory.
learned a lot, the center measure when u bent the tape, dividing the board into 4 equal parts (love that), but the main thing I learned is that I really need a stanley 25' fat max tape (love all those features, especially the top grabber)
I have a Craftsman 8m/26ft tape that shows both metric and inches. It is great for when you are purchasing something on-line and description are metric, you can quickly cross reference size for your needs!
Cool Info. In Germany most of the builders used the folding thinks. And the good ones are make from wood and has company logos on it. A lot of peoples collect them.
The simplest way to divide fractions in half is to just double the bottom number of the fraction. 1/2 of 3/4" is 3/8", 1/2 of 5/32" is 5/64", 1/2 of 1/2" is 1/4". No brain power required.
Those "old rulers" are sometimes the only safe way to measure for a linesman. You don't want to stick anything metallic like a tape measure near a live 20 kV line wire.
My newest tape is a FastCap PSSR16, reverse measuring tape. (I bought mine on Amazon, $7.99!) When doing layout, I prefer this design, so both sides, are right side up,so to speak. It comes with a rubber cushion to keep it from sliding when doing layout, it has a surface you can write your measurements on and wipe off, and when your pencil gets dull (#2 size) it has a built in sharpener. Fractions are also marked to the 16th. I've only had it a couple of weeks, but so far, it's my go to. I also have the Stanley Powerlock, Fat Max, and a Craftsman Diehard 25' that has been great to use for the last 20 yrs, but the spring is getting a little weaker, and the "automatic brake" is starting to slip a little. It should be one of the Lifetime Warranty items, I should look into that. lol
I used to use a fatmax myself, but switched a couple years ago to a Milwaukee. it has a lifetime warranty, seems to hold up better and is about the same price. I have seen people use the serrations on the tab for making a mark when you don't have a pencil, is that what it's for?
I used to use a fatmax myself, but switched a couple years ago to a Milwaukee. it has a lifetime warranty, seems to hold up better and is about the same price. I have seen people use the serrations on the tab for making a mark when you don't have a pencil, is that what it's for?
19.2, a real PITA when installing cabinets with lots of cabinets 18" fitting in between studs then requiring cutting open the wall to install backing that the cheap builder didn't.
As other have said when I was 12, I was helping a joiner build my dads garage first of all he wound me up saying he couldn't tell me as it was a secret only a joiner could know, and after he taught me how to cut properly and do all the cleaning up he sat down and told me its all to do with ply and sheet wood being 8 feet in length and taught me a few other tricks .
The FatMax tapes are nice. but the tape I carry daily is a 16ft KOMELON. I don't need a large tape....but one feature I really like on this is that it has what I call cheater labels. It labels the 1/8 increments. very nice for these aging eyes. The folding rules are far from out of service. When I worked Site Development, we always used them to lay out the string line for the grade machine. I also see masons and concrete crews using them often as well.
some useful tips there. a few tool vids back you showed a long handled plane and said you would tell what it was used for in the next vid did I miss that vid?
Try a bahco tape measure. available in 3, 5 and 8 meters(9ft, 16ft and 24ft). with a stainless housing or real sturdy plastic, 1" broad tape, marked on top and bottom, and available in metric, imperial and both. they cost some money, but if you want to measure up to 9 feet with help the fat btapes are genius. they have strong magnets om the 'hook' and a bumper for rolling it in without destroying the tool. its type MTB -5 (meters) -25(mm broad tape)-M/E/M-E metric Emperial. mines MTB-5-25-M-E and MTB8-25-M
Finding the center of a fraction is easily done in your head, especially with common fractions of an inch in carpentry. Just double the bottom number. Center of 3/8 is 3/16. Center of 11/16 is 11/32 and so on. So finding centre if say 67-5/8 is 33-1/2+5/16=33-13/16". That may seem complicated but when your tape is in front of you just work it out from the largest number down. Try it a few times, it's really quite easy.
No idea on the black diamonds but I am sure reading the comments will enlighten me. Regarding the little V mark, I also do that but I "tick" the side of the V onto the waste side so not only does it show me exactly where I measured but also what side of the line to cut to and what is waste.
Not one of the lucky .1% er's, but still, a retired shop teacher with a trick or two. Look on the back side of the tape on some Stanley tape measures (like my treasured 12' Powerlock 2 which no one in my family is allowed to touch) to find a treasure of information like decimal equivalents, nail sizes (in pennys) wood screw sizes, and a whole lot more. How many 7d common nails to a pound? Yep - go look. Now how come I'm the only one to notice that? Maybe they quit printing those figures on the back 20 years ago and I just don't know it! And don't try dividing a board with Corey's method or you'll come up short by the width of the kerf. In other words, subtract the combined widths of the kerf cuts from the original width of the board first, or prepare to bend over.
Why not feature those pencils in your Wranglermart? Where we then could buy them in bulk of 10, 20, 50, 100 or more? To help you save for a tractor, 'one pencil at a time'? Call it your pencil-to-tractor project? You might be surprised with how many of your viewers and subscribers will buy them in bulk, from all over the world. Not just because they want to have those Wranglerstar pencils but also because many of them would see it as a rewarding project to help your family save for their tractor. Plus it would niftily give your channel free publicity with those pencils appearing on building- and project sites all over the world.
Another vote for the Stanley 25'. I won't buy anything else. Each one has lasted me at least a year under heavy use (carpentry, cabinets, millwork, fencing, roofing, et cetera ad nauseum). The Lever Locks are handy, but not vital... I'm in the old-school habit of using my pointer finger as a brake. More control, like a manual transmission. As for the FatMax? Great for framing alone or reaching across a pole barn (or poking your buddy's ear from the roof), otherwise I've never needed that long of a break point.
The black diamond is for framing. Most times you'll use studs framed on 16" centers in which comes out to 6 studs per 8 foot of wall. The black diamonds will leave you with 5 studs per 8 foot wall. There is also markings for 4 studs per 8 foot wall. (That one is pretty easy to figure out though. Every 2 feet LOL) My father told me where that comes into play with the 5 studs per 8 foot section of wall but I can't remember for sure. I think it had something to do with cinder blocks but I can't remember.
Pro tip: just tear the sticker off your tape, it'll leave the white paper backing so you can write down your measurements. But us blue collars use markers, so you can wipe it off. ALMOST didn't learn anything, then I wanted a wranglerstar pencil.... he got me.
They used to make a rubber cover for the stanly lever lock. It saves the case from falls. I still have one that has probably been used on 25 or so tapes . Was an electrician for 20 years doing commercial work , usually 30/40' high. Dropped a lot of tapes but never broke a case that had he rubber cover on it. I also always used a 16' tape for bending pipe, because EMT comes in 10' lengths no need to carry the 30' if ya don't need it great vid I did learn the trick about ripping wood into equal lengths.Thanks for the tip.
As a contractor/carpenter, 30 ft fatmax is the only way to go. It is common measuring up to 24 feet and a 25 ft fatmax often does not pull all the way out. At least not easily. But a 16 or 25 fatmax are great when you know you'll only be measuring lengths shorter than 24 ft. As for the black diamonds, if not having to meet a particular load capacity, some clients/people prefer the stiffer floor a 19.2 inch layout provides.
i always heard the black diamond was for winter load trusses or any trusses that would be experiencing large unintentional load so it can bare more weight then traditional 24" truss layout
I have a measuring device that is electronic, you place the back side of it against one side of an area you want to measure such as a wall, press the button and it will make a clicking sound, the sound travels across the room bounces back from opposite wall and the unit "hears" the reflected clicking sound and will display the distance, example 12.7 feet. which equates to slightly less than 12 feet-81/2 inches. Using a tape measure to check to see if it was accurate, it was exactly as the readout indicated. The unit will measure from 2 foot to 100 feet if being outside, if inside a building it will measure up to 200 feet distance
+Wranglestar All these tape measures have one thing that always bugged me. If you use the tape measure with your right hand (like most of the people) the marking is always backward / upside down.... it's particularly annoying for wood working. I'm right handed but I personally use Stanley left handed measuring tape. Marking always in the right position 😉 Also do you know the age prediction trick with the tape measure ?
To day 99.9 % will learn something is a bold statement and very misleading. Every framer, builder, remodeler and construction guy, knows all that or they shouldn't be building. 30' tapes or larger are mandatory on every jobsite I've ever seen. Tapes don't last long in the building world. Rain and sand destroy them. Better to buy a tape with a warranty, so you can return it for a new one , like Craftsman used to have or DeWalt had every 90 days....
The fat max is the way to go, had a dewalt "framer whatever model" today and couldnt square the framing for the porch properly because the end is made for gripping upside down, sideways, upright, standing on your head... My right hand man was holding the dumb end and had a hard time lining up his end on the 6' mark because of the extreme prongs sticking out. Switched to the powerlock and had stuff 6,8 and 10'ed quickly.
I picked up a great little quality 16 footer at walmart for less then 5$! Its made by Komelon and although I hate everything that walmart stands for with all the chinese crap they sell, I just had to have it! Its small, and easy to read and has an automatic lock! the coated blade feels nice and even has fractional divisions! Handy little tape to just throw in your car's toolbox (which everybody SHOULD have) or anywhere you might need to bust out some measurements. Its small enough to fit in a pocket but has a clip as well. Perfect for trips to the hardware store. For precise everyday tasks I use a Starrett 6" scale with 10ths and 50th divisions. I would like it to have metric on the back but I haven't found one like that yet. I like all the variations in modern tapes, The variations from milwakee and DeWalt look promising. I also have a very handy tape that has a regular scale on one half and a half scale on the bottom to find the center on anything quick and easy without the bending technique although that is a great tip!. Ive also seen Diameter scales on the back of some tapes for measuring round things or belts. I'm a machinist so measurement is a big deal in my world.
prejudice. clearly he's only had stanley in his hand. talks like he's sponsored by Stanley and Stanley only. put every brand next to eachother and there's TONS of similarity..some are better some or worse. just go to your shop and put every brand in your hand and see which fits you. don't just go by which color you love the best..
The black diamond is used for quick truss marking in metric layouts. 5 trusses per 8' sheet good makes each diamond spaced out at 19.2" Some tapes (most?) have 16" markings in read for 16" stud centers, again, used for quick identification.
Been a carpenter/drywaller/cabinetmaker for 7-8 years, your tip on getting four equal pieces just blew my mind! Black diamonds are for engineers joists. Also drywall tip for you, never put your joint at the end of a header. Its much easier to put a full 4 foot sheet up and cut it out, and then your tape joint is part way into the heaver and will not crack. Thanks another great video.
@12:55(for the ones who wonder), the answer is 18 & 27/32" or 18.84375, fraction calculator app on phone for the complicated mathematical challenged, lol. Great video and thanks for for the tips.
What I've found for finding half of anything fraction with a hard number to divide by 2 is to simply take the numerator (top number of fraction) and put it over the double of the denominator (bottom number of fraction.) So say you want half of 11/16 it's simply 11/32.
Also, you can use a cheep precision ground 12" steel ruler to make sure it's calibrated. It's not terribly uncommon for them to be 1/32 or even a 1/16 off.
My son gave me an 8 meter Fat Max. He said "it grips on anything" Well he was right about that! It catches and jams on anything, especially roofing netting! Actually, its a great tape. I love the long reach (this explains your comment about it being wide I guess). And its easy to read. We use the metric version here in New Zealand but it is just as clear at the one you show here. Loved the tip about dividing a board into four. I have never seen that before. I'll use it, thanks.
Hi. I encourage you to take a trip to the dark side and try the Metric system for your table project. Plenty of quality tapes are available with dual In/Metric scales, including the Fat Max 33-726. Fractional math takes time and is error-prone. With Metric you can choose your level of precision (.5mm?) on any given measurement or project. It leads to better fit.
The small black diamonds, or triangles (diamonds are more commonly found), on the top scale of the tape measure starting at 19.2 inches are for truss layouts for 8-foot sheet goods. They are also known as the "black truss" markings. They provide a quick visual for the tape user and speed up the measuring process.
The small black diamonds, or triangles (diamonds are more commonly found), on the top scale of the tape measure starting at 19.2 inches are for truss layouts for 8-foot sheet goods. They are also known as the "black truss" markings. They provide a quick visual for the tape user and speed up the measuring process.
+Grandsew B My Dad still uses his wooden ruler. I've never seen him use a tape measure. It has some sort of brass doodad on the end that he pulls out but I can't remember its purpose.
Grandsew B Respectfully--not sure which power line industry you work for, but the one I work for tells us that wood can conduct electricity depending on its ability to attract and hold moisture. A dielectric ruler would be appropriate
The tool for calibrating a tape measure is called a Lixer tool. It uses a push pull measurement (nist) i think . 020" +/ - tolerance. push and measure say at 6" then pull and measure. Just for the uber precise craftsman... Everybody lets the end slam into the housing and bend the crap out of it. Great video. Thanks for the tips...
Instead of a chunk of formica, I just stick on some masking tape. Once again it doesn't take well to writing with pencil and will fade to illegibility over time. But it will hold the measurement long enough for you to get back to your saw. Easily replaced, erasable at need, and cheap. For precision measurements, try two sticks and a clamp. No numbers to forget, but you do have to remember which two ends of the sticks hold your measurement.
I've worked using tapes for more than 50 years and didnt learn the dividing trick.thank you.Also I'd like to ad the Stanley 16' tape ,on the other side from the measurements is A lot of useful builders information as decimal eq. ,nail & wood screw specs & other handy information.
In Denmark we mostly use the old folding stick. It has many advantages that I don’t see in measuring tape, like you always have a mitre gauge. Off course I have a 5 meter measuring tape (that’s 15 feet 2 pebbles and a stick for you, or how the heck you guys crazy system work).
I have used tape measures for probably, more than 60 years. I helped dad make things in the 50's and still using one quit often today. I do woodworking and have yet to measure over that time over 12' of anything. I know that people use the longer length, but why but one that you don't need. If your like me, the Stanley is a great product, but get the one that meets your needs, they come in 10"which I have a couple and also a couple `12' ones too. I do have a 15' that I seldom use.
I bought probably hands down the best tape measure for me about two weeks ago. Milwaukee 25 footer with a magnetic tip, double sided tape, has an architecual scale both 1/8 and 1/4. Magnetic claw will help since I do a lot of theatre lighting and almost everything I work with is made of steel or iron. The only thing is a magnet will not attach to nonferrous alloys, such as aluminum, so it won't hold onto some lights.
Wishing that the Fat Max wasn't as wide is strange... That's why you can bet over 11 foot standout with it because it's wide...how could the numbers be more readable if the space provided for the numbers is narrow...It's called the Fat Max for a reason.....
Wider tape is wider because it's a FAT max I prefer kobalt simply because of warranty. . Also Lufkin stick rule is go to definitely want to get one with the slide out for inside to inside measure. I'm a ironworker mostly rodbuster and 35' kobalt and 6' Lufkin stick rule in mandatory
