I have our master bathroom drywall repair project coming up on my never ending list of stuff to do when you have a house for 37 years so thank you for the perfect timing of this video and your previous videos.
If I had a ceiling like that, I'd be priming it and crack filling it, just like what's going to happen in our hall and bedroom in the next couple months. Been also binge watching all your lessons on here; it's really amazing how even the smallest tips offer the most help when I'm in the middle of something. Couldn't thank you enough! But 1000x thank you!
This was soooo helpful! I have a vaulted textured ceiling and will not be removing the texture for cost reasons. But we have all new drywall on the walls surrounding it. And this video just took the headache out of the whole procedure. Thank you and please make more of those fantastic videos. 😊
This is a very useful technique that I have needed in the past and will need in the future. Thank you! Been following your content for a long time and learning a ton.
I need to do this in my bathroom remodel tonight and was hoping you had a video on it. What perfect timing! Thanks as always for the amazing content!!!
Yes, exact same situation here! Took me a while to find the right search terms, so glad this video exists and I don't have to worry about feathering new texture on the ceiling!
I can’t begin to tell you how much this episode has & will help me! My bathroom is in need & it’s a 12 foot vaulted ceiling! I will take these lessons and go! Pray for me! 😂😂
I enjoy watching your videos and 99.9% of the time I agree with you.I like your approach, no loud music in the background, no ego, just the facts! when I do this type of project , I try hard to use a non tapered edge so I don't have to tape.I will file the cut edge with a bondo cheese file . I run a bead of latex along the top edge of the drywall to glue it to the ceiling when you push it up. follow with a finger slick and another small bead along the corner . Did a friends reno and this fall I was there , looked at the joint I did 4 years ago & it still looks 100% . keep the videos coming. I enjoy your level headed approach , and you're a good teacher for people that are new to this .
I came to the comment section looking to see if someone would say this. I have used caulk in these situations for years. Caulk it and texture over it and it looks great.
I do the same but I wonder if he says that because they don't do textured walls and caulking can look bad if you are not careful on smooth walls. I have done both but generally do it how your talking just be careful installing the board
Although Ben's videos are great for the DIYer, his knowledge and patience are a great endorsement for hiring an experienced professional for those big jobs that are scary and complicated. And he'd be great company.
I also ran into a similar issue when I was fixing the wall in the hallway where the new door frame was installed by a drunk guy. The top and bottom were off by almost an inch which meant I had to layer the plaster over about 10 feet of existing wall to make it look square and level. At the ceiling joint I did not add tape as it was already taped so I had to push the mud up into the corners without messing up the ceiling texture. It took a bit of tweaking but it looks good.
I have been looking for someone to do this video as I currently am doing the basement walls over but keeping the existing ceiling. I cannot thank you enough.
A very particular situation in the trade. I haven't been asked to do this before but I agree with your technique 👌🏽 Nothing fills gaps better than compound. Caulking is not a good filler here
I use this technique where there is a ton of seasonal movement: my 2x2-unit townhouse in Minnesota has very long joists. Can't tape across the wall-ceiling joint or the wall will crack. This allows that corner to open and close seasonally without cracking.
Beautiful job. I think you could caulk it , but using a rubber glazing or fugi silicone tool. It creates a 90 deg silicone finish that still allows you to cut the painting in nicely, while giving you a strong scructually 90 deg join
How did you read my mind I was literally Google searching this yesterday and I found a comment on a forum saying to flat tape it so then I watched one of your videos on flat taping then this popped up in my feed and I was like why didn't I find this when I was looking for it lol
I have done both, light textures if you put your upper board up first with a non tapered edge and tight joint will finish fine with caulk you just can't smear it all into the upper texture. (We don't usually do smooth walls here though so that may be the difference.
10:08 you also can do this method when a tile backsplash was added and the gap is horrid, instead of filling with caulk; you should use “mud” and build it up and feather out the wall to make it look “flat”, and this is what I usually do, but you are painting a bit so don’t have to be extremely careful on the walls, but if near trim…..definitely be cautious to not get anything on it.
I just finished some drywall that my dad started years ago. when it came to joining the wall with the popcorn ceiling, I didn't even look for a tutorial in your channel because that popcorn must go, no second thoughts. Anyway I appreciate how inclusive and considerate you are of the odd person that keeps popcorn on the ceiling.
Hey I really like all the advice you have on your channel it’s really helping with my basement Reno’s, I do have some interesting situations going on if you could spare a little time to give some specific tips I would really appreciate it!
I had the tape come off in several places in my bathroom. The humidity I assume weakened it. Just on the ceiling. It stayed on the walls. I considered for a while how to reglue it but decided against. I carefully cut it off the ceiling and left it on the walls then just patched the few gaps here and there with mud. It’s up high so you don’t notice much.
Hi VC, first of all you are my hero. Thanks for teaching and sharing. I have unrelated question, hoping you can opine… my taped joints in the sheet rock in the garage ceiling are all failing/cracking. Sheet rock has a lot of play as they don’t meet at beam. I know how to fix cosmetically based on your videos but since I can get above it, is there a good glue/adhesive I could apply to the seams from above to seep into the joints so it holds better and doesn’t crack again? I feel like applying some thinner construction adhesive (so it settles in the between sheets) from the top to fill the would make it super strong so my tape joints won’t fail again. Thoughts?
Thank you, Ben! The only thing that pisses me off about this video is the fact that I can't use the skills you taught in it, lol. In my case I have a mop textured ceiling, and the tape joints are flatout peeling off. I'm going to end up trying to completely scrape the texture off, then taping, and skim coating. to give context; this house was built in 1980, and the builders used crown moulding to hide the wall to ceiling joints. The 2nd homeowners removed the crown moulding in the bedrooms, and never replaced it. (They probably damaged it, and didn't realize how expensive it is). As a result, all the tape joints are crumbling, peeling, and hideous. This will definitely be way outside my comfort zone, but we can't afford to pay a pro to come in and do it for us. Hopefully I can pull it off, lol.
Hey Ben, quick question... Let's say we change 3 sheets of drywall on ceiling and the walls are the same painted. When you put your tape over the painting wall do you need to sand it alot so the tape can bond very well with the mud? Or you just dont sand and put the tape over the painting walls? Thanks.
14:53 I’d use big stretch or even lexcel by Sashco to caulk that “joint” as like the products & get excellent results from them. They really hold up well & lexcel sticks to ANYTHING & comes in clear or white, big stretch comes in many colors to match best as possible the paint. ✌🏻
Thanks so much for this video! I am building my first DIY partition wall so will use your method. Crown moulding is expensive and my labour is cheap. Do you have any videos or tips for doing the same in a corner to an existing painted wall?
Would this be applicable to a situation where the tape has separated from the wall? I assume one would cut away the loose tape, then proceed as you've done in the vid?
So glad I found this video! I'm faced with the exact opposite problem. I'm replacing some water damaged drywall Ceiling with a painted texture, that meets have of wall space. THis room was just repainted 3 weeks prior, and I would like to avoid having to re texture and paint part of the walls. So I'm guessing that your Flat Tape technique would work?🤔
I always do corners, vertical or horizontal, this way, even when I don't have to, though if the gap is really narrow, I prefill it with caulk before putting the mud and tape on it. I got into the this habit because most of the corners I've done abut walls or ceilings that I don't want to re-paint, but I also like the slightly crisper corner you can get from this method. Also, if the wall shifts a little, I'd rather see a corner crack a little on a straight line than see the tape bridging that gap pull away from both surfaces and make a long hollow bubble. It never seemed that slow to me, but that might be because I don't worry too much about getting the mud on the painted or textured surface; it seems to come off with a wet paintbrush. If the texture were water soluble, that wouldn't work as well and I'd have to be more careful, but so far, I've never run into that.
I've been watching your videos for years. Thanks for all the help. Have you considered putting tint in your mud especially in the garage demos to make it easier for us noobs to see?
Beautiful video man! Have run into this before after adding new bulk-head to existing finished ceiling for re-routing plumbing lines. Very helpful! (Caulking does not look good, as you mentioned lol *facepalm*)
I have a question about painting and the cutting in process. I have seen many painters use additives to paint like Flood Penetrol with oil based paints on cabinets to reduce brush marks, and I have seen a similar product for latex paints. I was watching you cut in that wall (which sounds super creepy now that I am reading that out loud) there were significant brush marks and I was wondering if you used any additives to the paint when cutting in or of you just let it buck. on a side note, you have helped me up my finishing game significantly where I am no longer annoyed about finishing drywall, but even a little excited about it because I get to apply some concept you introduced me to on your channel. Keep up the great work!
Just buy a good brush, and of course, use a good brushing technique. You can also dilute the paint with a little bit of water, no need to spend money on paint conditioner/extender. It’s only really useful for diluting paint for spraying.
For anything other than trim or special situations good paint and good brush is all you need. Honestly I wouldn't ever use additives unless doing high end doors or cabinets and then spray is better. A good latex will flow out enough if you don't touch it while it's drying and a good trim paint will flow out after a few seconds.
I need to do this in my bathroom remodel; gap is slightly over 1/4". Do I pre-fill the gap with joint compound or is there another product you recommend?
Hello, I love your drywall videos. I have a question. My cousin suffered flooding from a hurricane in Florida and had a company come in for cleanup. The company removed the 4' lower half of drywall of every intior wall. My question is; would it be better to hang the new drywall tapered end down to the floor and just tape and mud all joints as butt joints? Or, hang normal and fill in the tapered edge with mud prior to taping? Thanks for your response/advice. Ill be sure to leave a donation for your time. -Tim
Hey I have a really well done Textured ceiling I’m trying to save. what do you think about using “Tear Away” against it. It was textured with masonry plaster and painted
Do you have any vids on texturing ceilings. Not knockdown. I’m in western Canada quite common here but not sure what product to use . Is it Span light or ??
My sister-in-law bought a house with popcorn ceilings where all the walls were replaced with new Sheetrock. The solution the remodeler used was to install crown molding throughput the entire house. I would love to peek behind it to see the gap they probably hid. 😈
I've seen Australian videos in which they use crown moldings that are made of gypsum and use mud to put them up, sort of killing two birds with one stone. It seems clever, but I've never seen moldings like that here in the USA.
Ben- can you do a video about how to repair tape joint on an inside 3-way corner? I’m guessing the best way (not the fastest…) is to simply cut out the damaged sections of tape and redo the corner.
