Hola ASB Custom, te escribo para decirte que te compre dos poleas para mi TASCAM, en el link que pusiste, lo compro mi hermano que se llama Xavier Zambrano y vive en Miami y cuando le lleguen a el, el me las envía a Venezuela. Te comento que le hice un mantenimiento general al trasporte tal cual como lo hiciste en la serie de video del 122MK2 y quedo magnifico. Lo único malo es el potenciómetro del Pich, que ya esta malito, lo desarme y lo limpie y le di mas presión a las escobillas y quedo OK. Saludos.
Hello Nelson. Yes, I see it now, I should have recognized the last name. I'm happy you got the decks running, that pitch control is difficult to repair, good job on dealing with it!
Excellent video. I recently ordered new belts for my 112 and received two of these other pieces you referred to as tires. I had no idea where they went. Thanks for showing that in this video! Awesome, well done.
@@asbcustom Yes, thank you, I'm watching it now. I had a couple of wires come off on top of ( I think ) the belt motor. Looking to see if I can spot it in this video so I can get the wires soldered back to the right place.
Thanks for the video I need to replace the tire and the belts on my 122 MKll Question… when I took the cover off the 122 MKll the motor had fallen out and was laying in the unit. Did something break or just need tire replacement?
Also, would synthetic clock oil be fine for everything else. It is amazing oil. I already have these lubricants and I need to install a belt and tires for a friend. Tascam 112 MKII. I need an aluminum missing knob also. I hope to hear from you. Thanks.
I think it would be okay, I avoid oil based lubricants on plastic parts, sometimes it's alright on things like nylon but if I'm not certain I default to synthetics.
Hi. I have a 133 which is having issues with rewind autostop not engaging . The capstan? Slips on the idler tires and I think that's not allowing it to brake and engage a stop sequence. So the cassette spindle spins on rewind when it reaches the end of the tape. I have a new set of tires and wondered if you've seen it done on a 133. The drive belt was a real headache, so hopefully idlers are a bit easier.
Rick, I haven't seen a 133 in quite a while but I do remember that they're not as modular as the later decks and require more disassembly. I think you're on the right track though, I would do a thorough cleaning and lubrication as well while you're in there, it's definitely due. You may also find the brake shoes dried out and crumbling, they can be remade from polyurethane tubing and will last generations. Thanks for watching, wish I could be of more help.
@@asbcustom well I found those 2 brake shoes and you're right they are hanging by a thread. The little wishbone presses down on them I would guess. What will replacing those do to the operation of the cassette mechanism? Will that help the autostop on rew?
@@rcary If the brakes are that bad then it's a safe bet the whole transport is way past due for a service. From the service manual: The tape end is detected by making use of the fact that COUNT SIG OUT (see Fig. 3-23) turns to L when the tape stops traveling. This signal is applied to pin 25 ( INT) of the controller IC. If the L-level lasts for more than 2.5 seconds during PLAY mode, the controller generates STOP signal and sets all functions in Stop mode. The controller also sets all functions in Stop mode if the L-level lasts for more than 0.65 second during F.FWD or REW mode.
Good evening, the white plastic wheel with the rubber belt what is this for? I have the112 and it's playing fast, when I turn this wheel it plays normal again. Is it because the belt needs replacement or the motor? I'm thinking that it does not have enough tension to grab the turning motor, just guessing. If can give me a little advice I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you ABS Custom.
It depends how bad the tires are, I would say it could go from poor/intermittent take up torque to complete lack of tape movement if they're badly cracked or split and missing. In any event, the tires are a maintenance item and should be replaced at regular intervals.
Howdy! I just opened mine up to do some repairs, and the bottom idler tire is completely hardened and solidified to the wheel, is this a common issue and what would be the safest way to remove it? Thank you!
Jake, I've had good luck with the tires being cracked and brittle when the they go that hard. I usually just get a thumbnail in the crack and peel it off. I would avoid any tool that might break the thin nylon hub though. Good luck!
@@asbcustom Thank you! I got it off with a dental tool and very, very carefully using a wire cutter on the one that hardened but didn't crack and it's working nice now! These videos have been a huge help- I did end up lifting some traces on the capstan pcb, so I ordered one of those replacement boards to transfer the coils onto and take it as a lesson in being more patient and a reminder to get some desoldering tweezers!
@@vulgarnecrolatry Good work Jake, I hesitate to recommend tools, I'm happy you found a solution. Regarding the capstan motor PCB, there have been some threads about quality problems with those. Damaged traces can be repaired or rerouted, I've had very good success repairing the factory ones, I could probably do yours for close to the cost of the replacement. In any event, hang on to the original board just in case.
@@asbcustom I may return it and take you up in that, as I'm a bit worried about the epoxy they used and getting it off safely since it was very crusted!
Hi ASB, I’ve sub’d to the channel. I have a question on sourcing idler tires. Not for this deck but for a Marantz 5000/314/800, I’m repairing and need to get hold of 2x idlers OD 0.787” x ID 0.629” x T 0.118” (20mm x 16mm x 3mm) used for FF/Rew mechanism. I know you sell ones for this deck but wondered if you know of a supplier, or anyone else who might read this. I have hunted on the web and can not find any to suit.
Hello Joe and thank you for subscribing! I do not have that exact size but my supplier does list one that's pretty close and may work (.818"x.612"x.103). I'm placing an order next week, let me know if you'd like to try them and I'll add them to my order.
@@asbcustom Thanks for the offer ASB, unfortunately the Marantz really needs the idler tire to be spot on otherwise they will not work effectively. I’m going to try other routes but appreciate your kind offer. Looking on line something from PRB STC.776 would work but I think these guys are no longer in business as their web site is 2001 and look very dated plus there is no web shop. Keep up the content creation is a stack to up old soon on various repairs!
I had issued with my 234 idler. The idler would spin out on the brass drive wheel, and my rew ff would be very slow . I lifted that spring up a rung to out more tension on it and it helped it somewhat. I'm wondering if that little felt pad had something to do with it? What's that do? I could never figure it out?
@@asbcustom I think I fixed it. I pulled the thing out, and ffw with a bit of 1000 grit paper. Seems to have done the trick. It's back to the way it was. Ffw Rew good now too. Is there a preferred liquid to get the silicone off the clutch on the idler pad? I believe I may have got a bit on it yesterday when I put a dab on the gear. I didn't know the clutch was behind it. 🙈 Video of result. 👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Xs2FAg8yC8.html
@@asbcustom oh OK. I used ISO 99%, but I'll try it on my 234 tomorrow. Bar soap or dish soap? I noticed you scuffed up the pad a little on your other videos. Is there an alternative tool? I don't have a small wire brush, but lots of sandpaper grades. Does that plastic gear pull off the motor shaft with even applied pulling? Was thinking about getting a new motor. Same brand and model new/old stock here is £8.00 Mabuchi rf-510t.
@@asbcustom wow. I took off my 234 idler and cleaned the pad. Dishsoap warm water. Cleaned up nice. Did a gentle scuff with a sharp pick. Now runs beautifully. Silent and smooth. Before it whined a bit. Clutch was slipping. Good tip, thank you. 👍
