I sincerely appreciate you doing this. I just purchased an x95 and I tried removing the foregrip . Finally figured out that it was locked by the lower handguard.
1st video I saw for the field strip / complete disassembly for the X-95, great video. Just got mine a month ago and haven't had to shoot due to moving. However, I want to paint and upgrade too. This will help tremendously, thanks 🙌🏽
@@MNTNMAN-SUCA worth investing? the best investment are the surplus that are no longer made, like sks, mosin, SVT & LE but the ones still in production like X95, these will just keep pace with inflation. i must admit tho, the X95 price is meeting some resistance.
@@gnutzguy For us here in Canada, with all the different platforms that are already banned, for no reason, as a best example is the Robinson Armaments XCR systems. Nice if someone can get stuff "Grandfathered", but that's becoming ever more rare. When you buy an SKS, buy 2; right.?. 1 for parts... But something of modern tech, that'll last as long as you keep it out of the mud😉 lol, a 5.56NATO at short range will drop a moose dead with the right placement.
@@gnutzguy And I meant as a SHTF investment for home and family defense. Bad Moon Arising! From the land of the rising sun direction.😒 Delicate dishware, but I heard some pretty fast nukes!
thanks... good to hear new blood coming into our sport and taking it up professionally. i also did a full monty of the Micro. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-msCHncS_wdU.html
I wish I watched this before buying. I’m not a fan of the barrel lock. I guess I can get more familiar with it... Thanks for the great informative video!
The barrel lock mechanism on this rifle absolutely sucks. It also sucks that you have to buy the part to even open it (which is $40+ shipping in Canada). I went to change the charging handle slide and the tool broke and my barrel lock is now not opening and I had to give it to a gunsmith to figure out.
good time to make a 3D frame w/ rectangle base and smaller top connected by trapezoid-forming legs (even bowed outward) so your close-ups more easily stay in recording frame... the 3D frame can all be just outside what the camera sees but guide where your hands go for the view you want to be seen... it might even work as well or better to have the top rectangle mounted on your tripod and the bottom just tape on the table
This is an excellent video, especially due to people crushing their gas tubes. I really appreciate things like (5:22) where you explain how/why parts interlock. Only improvement is maybe mentioning TORQUE settings (in-lb) for reassembly.
Also, I don't think it's strictly necessary to remove the top rail from the barrel. I think the two can remain mated when removing the rail to preserve Zero. When reassembling, need to be careful to slide rear rail tab, into receiver slot.
@@lencac7952 if it jammed then it need a good cleaning especially at the gas system. That I found the x95 biggest weakness. Not easy to clean the gas tube and impossible to get at the gas port. I had a skinny brush got stuck in there so dont use a skinny brush. Next time a pipe cleaner.
Hey, I have a question for you since you seem very knowledgeable on the x95. Mine is brand new and my first day at the range I can’t get the firearm to fire more than a single shot at a time. I have to cock each time to fire. It does eject the fired case but doesn’t pick up the next round. I have tried 3 different types of mags and no change. I called the place where I purchased the firearm FOC but their comment was that I had too many rounds in my 5 round mag that I should try 3 rounds but that didn’t solve the problem, they then said to try fully dissembling and cleaning the firearm and that should help... bla bla bla. They were not much help at all except to say that the salesman there had the same problem at first until he cleaned it completely. I wonder if someone with your experience could shed some light on my problem? Please and thank you.
your bolt is not reaching all the way back. maybe lack of gas or something preventing it. clean the gas system (gas port) and oil the tracks the bolt riding on.
What is wrong with steel rods? The barrel is chrome lined. You should be able to clean with a steel rod from the front too due to the fact you will not dammage the crown like a hunting rifle. Still thanks for the video.
@@gnutzguy Lol, back door is an interesting and colorful way to put it. Yes the manual does, and it's always best to do that. Just an interesting note that the millitary type AR cleaning kit rod, AK rod and many more come with a steel rod. I am careful with it but mainly because I'm old and set in my ways. More recently I actually tried to scratch the barrel of a chrome lined AK, both with the AR and included AK rod and nothing happened. probably okay if they supply it or recomend it with the gun. I did manage to scratch my phone screen though, which sucks.
I've tried to remove the forend and top rail, only to strip the heads. Your video makes it look like it's zero effort. Any suggestions on getting these things to come out? It's a little aggravating to have a new top rail and charging handle while being unable to take down the rifle without damaging the screws.
I've also heard that some screws may have some loctite on them and folks had to hold a torch to them..not sure if thats the correct method for getting stubborn screws out
Just got mine back from a gunsmith who probably could have used your video, he left out the foregrip screw and can't find it. Any chance you know what length and thread it is so I can source a replacement?
its common M4 hex head so the shaft is 4mm thick, .7 threading and 40mm long. try to get one with no thread about 20mm of the shaft rather than the entire shaft... same for the screw 7.5" behind it except for the head.... good luck.
if it doesnt melt then the heat deteriorate the plastic over time. thats is why i questioned them using green rubber for extractor spring. what were they thinkin?
Why it feels it's gonna be a lot of work if I want to buy the lefty bolt and change it myself and change the charging handle, safety and all to the appropriate side. (And likely I will never take this gun apart fully forever after seeing your video LOL, so many things can potentially go wrong for me.)
It's really not that much work. You have to pull the barrel to flip the dust cover for the charging handle rod but that's the most complicated thing you'll have to do. Pull the BCG, unscrew pistol grip, unscrew the QD cup under the rail, unscrew the handguard, remove charging handle (important!), then you just turn the barrel lock (while depressing the locking lever on the opposite side) and the barrel then pulls out. Then just throw everything back together on the side you want.
I couldnt find that word but one wonders@@gnutzguy Garand is a great Canadian connection... carbine and sks were cheap long enough to be common wilderness guns... Tavor seems to be a lucky oversight... are all the semi-auto 12ga ok? even ar and ak patterns? hopefully tyranny marches on Moscow before long and human rights resume
didnt i gave a verbal instruction on how to do it? i dont think it would be worth it cos this vid been posted for over a year and i think you're the first to ask. iirc, when reassembling, just reverse the plate and put the charging handle on the other side.
not for moving the charging handle from one side to the other. cost you nothing to try it. conversion kit is needed when changing from right handed to left. basically, the ejection of casings from one side to the other. my next vid is on the x95, i will try to focus more on the charging handle but i wont swap it. it may help you.
Nice.. IWIiiiii !! I Noticed it didnt have a Spring ?! .. sure it is bult inside ?! Or so .. also Wow like 95% its NO Steel part?!... like a Toy?!.. heheh... shieh guess Då Poh-Lease Will Take the Got Gun Away instead of REAL Metall??... also Noted that when Charging... it Sounds Like a Cybergun AK47 (4.5mm) when I Racker mine?!!! ... Very Interesting Tutorial!!
@Mike Copeland product? For sale? Lol. Hey, cost you nothing to watch. Nope, not an excuse. Just a warning of an in-depth disassembly. Majority of my viewers are appreciative and have no issue with the said "product" . They can figure it out without me holding their hands, lol.
Interesting video. However... It would be nice to see where and how the parts connect and disconnect. It can't be seen BECAUSE... the presenter is out of the camera lens coverage! Hmmm minor detail? I will find a better video where all that is being said is being shown.
@@gnutzguy Klaus M is right. The whole point of a video is to see what is going on, novice or not! I don't remember seeing this video was for experts only in the description, we're all here to learn. He gave useful constructive criticism, you should thank him.
@@stanleybp obviously, you haven't bothered to read further down, it's in the disclaimer, lol. Even if it's not in the disclaimer, FULL disassembly means ADVANCE. I should be thankful, Really? For something I do for free? for something that actually cost me money and time? not to mention it's frustrating dealing with youtube restrictive policies.
Let's not overthink things. The guy in the field isn't going to tear the rifle down anything like this. He's going to go through his entire training and service maintaining this rifle with nothing more than a tiny bottle of oil and a glorified shoestring (for a bore brush). Virtually none of what you see in this video will ever be done. "Field stripping," as outlined in the owners' manual, consists of simply opening the butt stock an removing that first assembly. It's that simple. NO tools, NO tiny parts to lose, completely idiot-proof. Like the AK series, this rifle will take all manner of neglect and abuse -- then still function flawlessly. About the only time "extra" cleaning will happen is after firing off a mag of tracers or blanks. When that happens, the innards will be "cleaned" by flushing everything in an automotive parts washer basin then blowing clear with an air hose. If wet conditions are anticipated, the soldier may lightly spritz the internals with something like Tri-Flo or BreakFree.
you are underthinking things, lol. there are many who are interested in going beyond field stripping even as simple as changing handguard to extreme changing caliber. thats why this vid is quite popular.
@@gnutzguy I wasn't watch'n on my phone which is only 2 months old now. My screen's on My PC are 26" each there are 3. What I see is; he would say something Then: he would pull the weapon back toward himself to do the work and you Wouldn't see him doing the work until he leaned back towards the camera which is in front of Him. I've got an 50" Tv in my front room, I will hook it/ them to my PC and see what happens.
ah, i see when you said adjust my camera, you dont mean quality. unfortunately, i dont like to move my camera angle around, i spend too much time editing after as it is, makes its more difficult to splice segments together when camera angle changes. when handle a firearm, expect it will be out of view for a few seconds but hopefully nothing important. sorry, about that.
sorry!but i think you need to retake the whole video! becouse your camera is not on good focus!you need a take two,so that the viewers can see it and understand clearly! lots of your subscriber wants to learn🙂
gnutzguy took a few extra steps for barrel removal in this vid. It's a disassembly tutorial, and wasn't meant for a simple barrel swap. The following steps will remove the barrel with a minimum of work: 1 - Push pin on backdoor of gun and remove BCG. 2 - remove the top handguard screw, it is 3mm allen wrench 3 - Remove or loosen the pistol grip screw, which is a large philips, and pull grip assembly down so the tab comes out of the handguard. 4 - Pull handguard off of the front 5 - Pull charging handle out the front 6 - Turn barrel lock, and pull barrel assembly complete with optics rail out the front. It will pretty much retain zero this way, no need to remove optic. The whole barrel swap can easily be completed in less than 10 minutes, and requires only 3 tools.
Maybe I'm being presumptuous, but your description of how to clean the barrel lacks some basic firearms cleaning knowledge. Cleaning from muzzle end is not ever convenient, its just wrong. Whenever cleaning a barrel, if possible ALWAYs Clean from chamber end to avoid 1) damaging the crown ( which would degrade accuracy and 2) pushing crud and solvent into the receiver.
@@idontno0 nobody said tavor is a Commie gun. you really need to reread. We were talking about basic cleaning knowledge . Btw the predecessor of tavor was the galil and that was a Commie gun, lol
You have just shown me why I shouldn’t buy this at all there’s way too much plastic and way too many screws and pins. More reason why I would prefer an AR-15 for its simplicity. No wonder US military hasn’t adopted bullpup rifles yet there just isn’t one that can replace the AR platform
All the parts that make it work mechanically are metal; the plastic is just a shell for it all (and separately, the shell for the trigger pack, although I'd recommend one of the aftermarket packs; I have a Geissele which is a big improvement, and all metal though I don't care much about that part). The rifle is ridiculously reliable, as witnessed by its military users. Today I cleaned my 300BLK X95 for the first time in a few thousand suppressed rounds (see my ridiculous story above) and as usual I was amazed at how it just kind of refuses to get really dirty. It just runs and runs. As to the pins and screws, I'm not sure how it compares unfavorably to an AR. Pulling a trigger from an AR (even a drop-in) requires driving 2 pins out, same as the X95 except in the AR they aren't conveniently captive. Pulling the bolt requires pulling one captive pin just like this. Taking the bolt out of the carrier you need to pull a cotter pin, here you drive one out. Taking the barrel out of an AR requires special tools, whereas here you could get it done with a big flathead screwdriver in a pinch. Plus there's no buffer tube nor a bunch of detents to keep track of. Really it seems to me that from a field stripping & cleaning standpoint the X95 is super convenient. I can do a normal quick cleaning on the X95 faster than I can do an AR, and I have done ARs way more times. I have ARs as well of course, and I'm a big fan of the platform. In particular I love the extreme variety and interchangeability of it. I have uppers in .50 Beowulf, 6.5 Grendel, 300BLK, 5.56 and 9mm and can swap them around however I please, and there's just a ludicrous market for parts and accessories. All of that is a huge advantage over the X95 from a consumer's perspective...I can't even buy another 300BLK barrel if I want one, in any length. But in terms of pure performance and useability I consider the X95 a really strong contender.
@@huntercook6605 Thank you for taking your time to tell me more about the Tavor. I really like the looks of it and bullpup is really the future for the military for the fact that they are compact has more weight closer to the body and there’s no need for trimming off the barrel length and sacrifice ballistic and terminal performance. But the one thing I like the most about AR is the minimal amount of plastic it uses, which makes it a good candidate for precision rifle. The only problem about the Tavor is what you said about the ability to remove components easily including the barrel. For most precision rifles the barrels are tightly installed into the receiver. So the question is would removing and reinstalling the barrel on Tavor possibly shift the the point of impact? Have you tested on that? Is the Tavor capable to shoot sub-MOA?
@@philipng6598 No, I would not consider it a great design for a precision rifle. I don't know if it's possible to get one to shoot sub-MOA but mine certainly doesn't. Then again no rifle will do that with me behind the trigger lol. It's really intended as a regular infantry combat rifle that's accurate enough for normal engagements, easy to handle, and extremely reliable. Those are things I value, but if your main goal is extreme accuracy it's probably not a good choice, and indeed probably no bullpup is.
@@gnutzguy I'm as gun engineer see how many stuffs were made for nothing,it increases weight,it could be easier way more than it is.But engineers in iwi are not bad guys at all.Kinda better than even HK tho
not bad? i wonder cos the way they solved the issue of the soldiers damaging the recoil buffer in my micro surplus which complicated the new bolt disassembly. wouldnt it be simpler if they just attached the block on the buttplate instead of the buffer and left the bolt alone? what do you think? from a gun engineer point of view. see the end of the micro full monty. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-msCHncS_wdU.html
@@gnutzguy do you mean put recoil spring and whole bolt carrier assembly to the buttplate which you do shouldering instead of put it in this kinda buffer?I think no affects would be happen at all. And i think it would be more comfortable to have everything in one piece,who knows why they've made this that way.And actually x95 was estimated for special forces and for cqb in cities,maybe police,army guys didn't like it in Israel. Coz it so much complicated, therefore,i would make it easier way more that that,to save it lightweight, more reliable etc.Fast barrel swap not needed so much in any combat,but it would be better to swap it faster like acr,scar,or better as drd paratus.This gun overengineered for standard rifleman,and even for special in some cases as gas block regulations and barrel swapping.But i believe it so cool to shoot
@@gnutzguy the thin barrel does not float and is weak in two parts or ring-shaped grooves that cause lack of accuracy and many harmonics, tavor 7 has gas regulation