I appreciate the honesty about the edging, that's how I felt about the original tc pros and felt like I was crazy for not believing that they were the best edging thing ever.
The comfortability and performance are perfectly balanced with these shoes. I've stepped on some garbage polished nickel-sized divots but still have comfort. Such a good all arounder.
I think TC Pros were made with granite in mind - slopey edges, divets, and crystals.They are therefore excellent at smedging, not edging. There are tons of shoes that edge better. I can’t think of a shoe that smedges better than the TC.
Yeah, it's true that they're really granite shoes and testing them on sandstone wasn't the best. Personally for me, though, the stiffness of the shoe meant that smearing was a little difficult. I also don't think I'll love them for granite slab -I like a more sensitive shoe that I can feel the crystals with. Personal preference, though!
@@ascentionism I love my TC’s on granite slab and face climbing when they are thoroughly broken in. I’m talking like 70% life left. I agree that they feel too thick and clunky at the beginning to really trust your feet on delicate smears and smedges. I think the old 5.10 pinks are one of the best slab+edging shoes ever. They worked in cracks too, although not nearly as comfortably as TCs.
I finally got a pair and tried them out for the first time yesterday, it is THE shoe for the granite near me, very slippery granite with tiny edges and a lot of splitter cracks, it handles all of that really well but I can see how other shoes may edge better
Did they change the tongue design of the shoe? Mine always curls up when I go to pull it on. Also the TC toe box always seems slightly off which is weird since I always love la sportiva shoes.
Apparently, yes. WeighMyRack has a short video of an interview with a La Sportiva rep who mentions that they've addressed the tongue folding over. I'll stop short of linking away from this channel but the video is easy enough to find.
"All day comfort and thin cracks is not really possible." I raise you the old moccasyms. one of the best thin crack shoes ever made, and due to the uncomplicated leather construction, an all day shoe to rival the best. not an edger particularly, but that didn't stop them from being a top pick for many climbers from Yosemite to Indian creek.
According to my resoler the new tcs no longer have stitching behind the rand in the toe area so they won't wear through and need to be replaced as quickly as the old ones.
I don't have Miura's, but from speaking with my friends who do I would say it's a similar degree of performance with more comfort. If you want something with a smaller toe box and miura's are probably your best bet, but for a multi-pitch shoe I would probably say the TC!
Way better than miuras for long routes. The miuras definitely perform better on overhanging stuff and tiny, tiny edges, but absolutely destroy my feet if I have to wear them for more than a pitch or two. The TC pros are miles better on slab, long crack routes, etc and are just generally much more comfy.
