There is a screw press tool to remove the piston pins that is preferable to hammer and drift to remove. Tool supports piston and no shock loading on the connecting rod and bearings.. use of stripping trays keeps parts organised,accounted for and prevents mixing up. Easily made from wood and foam. If you have to move parts around then it's the best way to do it. Every part has a specified location.
Everyone seems to be harping on about the bearings turning when removing cylinders. Has anyone actually turned a bearing doing this ? I doubt it ! If you did then stop working on engines. How much does the case separate when removing the cylinders? Did you measure it ? Did you see any movement on the case around the outer bolts holding the case together without the cylinders in place and torqued ? I doubt it .... if you did you have other problems. What is the tang on each bearing half used for ? Why are they on opposite sides of the meeting faces ? When the bearings are pushed into the split case do they drop out ? The reason for bearings turning in the case is more than likely bad torque sequence and incorrect torque settings. This will cause fretting and inevitably bearing failure. Turning the crank will not turn the bearing as the tang won't alow this. If it does you have other problems.
Once a cylinder is removed, you NEED to reinstall the thru-bolt nuts with an appropriate amount of washers to keep the two crankcase halves tight. Do not turn the propeller/crankshaft if you do not secure the thru bolts. If not, the crankshaft bearings can spin as the crankshaft is rotated, causing the oil ports to be blocked, which will end up seizing the engine in flight due to oil starvation. This is doubly important when more than once cylinder is removed
Look up Mike Busch and see what his technique is for pulling all cylinders if need to be done. You need to secure the halves with blocks in place of the cylinders or the halves will typically separate just enough to spin a bearing.
@@Demandog3 You secure the case halvers together by reinstalling the nuts on the thru-bolts, which are larger nuts that the rest of the cylinder studs. Because you removed the cylinder, you will have to place multiple washers below the thru-bolt nuts before torquing them down.
@@charlesmckenna6164 Mike Busch is wrong. Indented tangs in the shell bearings prevent them from turning since they are captured in their respective tang slots in the bearing saddles. The puropse of nutting and tightening the thru bolts is to prevent the ingression of oil into the saddle surfaces so that the surfaces will not chafe together when the engine is in service. If chafing of the saddle surface(s) happens, they will wear, resulting a tighter clamping force on the crankshaft journal.
@@John-nc4bl hey can you confirm that’s the way on every every model of engine? And just cuz I’m curious can you tell me a little bit about yourself and your AI/A&P experience? I’m not saying you’re wrong I just like to know a little bit about people I’m learning from.
You mean my mechanic fleeced me for over $1000 plus parts (gaskets and new cylinder that I supplied) just to remove and install one jug? I hit the airport at 8:30 am and he was already gone. Never fucking again!
REGGIN RETNUH The FSS said he was there two hours. And I supplied the parts and took off and replaced my cowling. Try reading, please. So he billed at $500/hr. PS get off the drugs, kid.
