I'd love to do this with my trident running full. Water cooler pump, A,B,E. 48v and Z. 24v steppers, Pi, Octopus, 10 fans, C PAP, Goliath, Leds. 250 bed heater, camera, Beacon, TFT display, PTC heater soon.
all the best, hope you get well and no need to excuse yourself ! I got myself a power meter quite a while ago, actually insane what my voron draws, i got a 800w bed (bit of a luxury but actually insane its like 1°c heating up every 0.5-1.5 sec) when full heating bed and hotend while maybe even homing it draws 1.1kw 😅 motors enabled it draws around 60w (awd voron 2.4) while printing between 200-300w with 5160 drivers on 24v ... with 48v i hope it gives me an advantage but seriously before that i needa upgrade to 40x40 frame 😂 definitely needa get a income with the printer otherwise electricity bill gets me broke... damn eddie current probes are so saddesfying with my speed dedications surely needa swap my klipper for that at some point🤔
I had been having some discussions over Discord on how to properly size a power supply unit for wattage, so figured the investment in the power meter would help to answer some of those questions.
@@oldguymeltsplastic yeah i go a 350 24v in there right now i believe, bed is directly heated from 230V inlet by an SSR unit i found out tho when ordering my 48V PSU that around 100-350w it doesnt make a huge difference in price but from 350 upward it gets very very expensive 😅
I run the two AB motors at 48V on a 100W PSU, never had any power issues. All other components, four Z motors, one extruder motor, the Octopus Max EZ, Pi 4B, U2C, 10 fans, 90 neopixels and the Dragon UHF hotend all run off of a 200W 24V PSU. I have been told by a reliable source that I could likely run several more motors off of the 100W 48V PSU without issues, but haven't needed to yet.
@@oldguymeltsplastic yeah i know, went with more on purpose, the video from eddietheengineer about steppers explains pretty good why you dont need that much power electronic and gantry side im all set just rigidy aint ready yet
I have been using a kill-a-watt on my V2.4 for a while just to get a feel for how much power it was using and how much heat it puts into the room its in. As can be seen in your video, as the printer warms up and everything starts to heat soak to its normal running temp the power consumption drops steadily and averages much lower than it starts out at.
I would recommend upgrading your parts to the ERCF v2, It has made a huge amount of QOL improvements and starts at 8 cartridges verses 6 or 9. Also before you commit to the v1. part printing. Get better i love watching your vids.
Thankfully no other symptoms, and it's never gotten so bad that I felt like a hospital visit was needed. I have come close to passing out a few times due to a coughing fit though. That's no fun. Hope your wife feels better soon!
Performance is basically the same, although I am not running a high temperature printer. The model of Cartographer I have installed is the CAN Bus version. I was hoping to use the integrated S2DW for Input Shaper, but the IS gods inform me that the S2DW implementation in Klipper is maybe not yet ready, or as well understood as the ADXL.
That makes sense, I was curious about it, thanks. I've got a stock 2.4 right now, but I've been meaning to build a second one soon with rapid burner and CAN, so I've been looking around at probe options, and what other changes I should make.
Is warping not a concern with the bed? I followed the default config which limits my bed heater to 60% and when I searched why it has that most of the responses listed bed warping from heating too quickly as the reason.
I believe that has been proven false, provided that you have a cast aluminum bed plate of a specific thickness. Mine is 8 mm thick, so I have my bed heater power at 100%.
People have been insisting recently that it doesn't matter on cast beds, though I thought they always were cast aluminium. Either way all metal warps if the temp one side is different to the other. I prefer to let it take the very few minutes it takes with a low power heater and hopefully that means the top and bottom are always very close to each other. Aluminium of course transfers heat well but its not instant. As a welder I've seen what rapid heating can do to metal. A very slight warp can unwarp when the temp equalises but its not always exactly like it was and I paid good money for a bed that is ground flat so I would like it to stay as flat as possible. It doesn't take much warping over 350mm to get half a millimeter change. For me the bed heating faster doesn't get me printing faster because I'm always waiting on the chamber heater anyway. Its also completely possible that the heater just doesn't have enough power to warp it.
