Yeah, all tool heads show up and they do seem to work, BUT: I have seen an other video from a guy who also connected his (6) tool heads in parallel and is seemed to work fine when printing PLA. When printing ABS (higher temps) is was unreliable.. He started trouble shooting, adding cooling fans, and in the end swapping out his USB2CAN board for an other brand. This fixed his particular issue, but later on he discovered the real problem causing the issues he was having; Tool heads connected in parallel, and not in series. He did the connection the right way, and then the other USB2CAN board also turned out to work fine when printing ABS. So the moral of the story; Please stick to the official way when connecting CAN devices, it an save you a lot of trouble in the long run..
Obrigado pelo seu video, comprei a ebb2209 can btt pi 1.2 +uac2 na compilaçao dá erro [Makefile:84: out/compile_time_request.o] Error 255 será que tem soluçao?
I notice your cubes have exactly the same flaws mine have. And, I don't see those flaws on many other cubes out there... I'm talking about the slight indentation (and lighter color blue) to the left and right of the voron logo on the X-face. And, when you flip the cube, there is discoloration (lighter blue again) in splotches on another side. I'm not so worried about the color, but I think that may indicate stresses or differences in internal adhesion where the splotches are. Did you ever figure out what caused that? I was able to dramatically reduce mine by slowing way down. But it still has a hint of it, so I don't think it is very much a speed thing... And slowing way down is not a very good solution! Odd that you and I have this when it doesn't seem to show up much when you search for images of these cubes.
I am wondering if it's this specific filament that displays this problem. I am using Sparta3D's Sparkle ABS/ASA (aka West3D's Ambrosia ABS/ASA). Other filaments don't show these issues (or at least not as much).
@@oldguymeltsplastic I ended up starting over from a default Orca profile for Voron. The second time through resulted in a much better result, but unfortunately this process wiped out my ability to confirm what was wrong. I suspect the slight indentation was a combo of a tricky filament as you suggest, with too high of acceleration. The color change in spots may also have had something to do with choice of infill. Cubic seems more prone to this.
They were installed about a year ago when I also installed the LDO 2804 AB motors. The CNC motor mounts and XY joints have worked very well for me so far, no issues at all. I was advised that the LDO 2804 motors run hot (they do), so I wanted to make sure that the motor mounts weren't going to be melted by the heat from the motors. Bonus is that the motors help generate more heat in the enclosure, while also being able to use most of the printer frame as a giant heat sink.
@@oldguymeltsplastic thanks for sharing. My current AB motors run warm to the touch so for now heat is not an issue. Does metal on metal mount cause resonances have you used any kind of vibration dampers ?
If you're on Discord, you could try asking in the Drive Shift Designs channel on the Fizzy's Tech Discord server here: discord.com/channels/1102420774993793107/1232060491287888004/1250569738665459825
I haven't found a lot of other people trying the CNC gantry. I know you went back to the 2020 because you didn't see improvements, but were there any issues with the light gantry? Fysetc is including it in their 2.4 kit by default now.
I bent it out of shape fairly easily by over tightening the M5 bolts meant to hold it in place. Although it was considerably lighter than the 2020 extrusion, I didn't really see much performance gains, so I eventually went back to the 2020 extrusion.
Sorry, couldnt resist. Connecting pins while powered on is a recipe for magic smoke. I fried an Octopus about a year back doing just that, while connecting endstops. Before that, I tried to measure voltage while on, burnt another Octopus when my multimeter probe slipper and I injected 24v to the 3.3v rail. And even that wasnt the first time. I can go on and on. I cant seem to learn from my mistakes, but here is to hoping someone else might learn from them.
Hi, did you model the Beacon mount yourself or is the STL available to download somewhere? If so, could you provide a link? I don't it's available in the chirpy Rapid Burner github.
Chirpy has a Beacon mount in his repo here: github.com/chirpy2605/voron/blob/main/general/Alternative_Voron_Mounts/Modified_Mounts/V1_V2/STLs/Probe_Mounts/Beacon_Probe_Mount.stl
can You share bowden arm mount - the one You are using is installed on bottom of 2020 extrusion, one i found on github is installed in front and collide with my led strip cable.
Trying to build a Rapid Burner with Rapido UHF, but I cannot find the hotend mount in the Github repo!? Could someone point me to the STL? EDIT: Do I need to go with version 6 here? What about v8? Confused...
You want to look for <extruder>_Hotend_Mount.stl, for whichever extruder you will be using. Here's the link to the Sherpa Micro version: github.com/chirpy2605/voron/blob/main/V0/Rapid_Burner/STLs/v0.2/Sherpa_Micro_Hotend_Mount.stl
Sparta3D Sparkle ABS+ or ASA in Sky Blue and Purple Mist, also seems identical to West3D's Ambrosia Galactic ABS and ASA. I have used both brands interchangeably.
@@oldguymeltsplastic oh damn, first one doesnt seem to be avalible quite as easily in europe but the latter i found a seller selling it for a fair price! thank you so much i will start using it from now on ^^
Hello! Are there any problems with the rigidity of the lightweight X-axis? I'm going to use it together with Tap and I have big doubts that there will be strong vibrations when moving along the Y axis.
Hi Steph I am wondering where you found the guide for installing the V2.4 X axis toolhead mount. They don't go into detail on the install of the alternate mounts on the rapid burner git hub. I think I have all the parts printed including the probe carriage. I am going to go with a beacon as well. It seems like I have to attach the x mount to the hot end mount first with a single screw in the top then attach to the mgn12 rail. Does the single screw just allow you to pivot the part to access the other 2 MGN 12 mounting screws from the front? Then feed the belts in etc then secure the other 2 screws connecting the x axis mount to the hot end mount. Seems like a not very ideal way to attach this please let me know if I am looking at this correctly.
These product acronyms and alphabet soup nomenclature are a reflection of. the lack of marketing skills of this industry. More friendly and descriptive product names would be very welcome. "EBB SB2240"? Really? Thanks for your video - I will reference it in my own builds.
Thanks for the videos, I am using a SB2209 RP2040, Octopus v1.1 and U2C V2.1. Your videos were very helpful, and I was able to get all flashed and operating. I am having two issues. #1 what need to be done to connect the Octopus through the U2C? Octopus communicated fine when USB is plugged directly into the PI but will not connect when plugged in the U2C. #2 I am using a Rapido V2 with PT1000 RTD. The BTT sample Klipper cfg is for the SB2240. The sensor_type: MAX31865 appears to very different for the SB2209 RP2040. would appreciate any help on the Klipper configuration. [extruder] step_pin: EBBCan: GPI018 dir_pin: !EBBCan: GPI019 enable_pin: !EBBCan: GPI017 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 33.500 nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: EBBCan: GPI07 #sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F #sensor_pin: EBBCan: GPI027 sensor_type: MAX31865 sensor_pin: EBBCan: GPI09 # spi_bus: spi1 cs_pin: EBBCan: GPI09 spi_bus: spi_speed: 4000000 spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan: GPI010 spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan: GPI08 spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan: GPI011 # See the "common SPI settings" section for a description of the # above parameters. rtd_nominal_r: 1000 rtd_reference_r: 4300 rtd_num_of_wires: 2 rtd_use_50Hz_filter: False control: pid pid_Kp: 21.527 pid_Ki: 1.063 pid_Kd: 108.982 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 250
@oldguymeltsplastic thanks for the reply, I think I have the klipper configuration correct for the max1864. But I am getting a klipper shutdown thermocouple read error. Any thoughts?
Possibly. This hotend was initially used for a few print jobs then stored in a drawer for several months before being used again. It didn't smoke like this the first time.
