Team Associated B6.4D Update || Enzo Albertoni 

This is something I would like to compare, but just due to using the equipment out of my other car for this one. Might not happen. However, on kit setup, the new car was about .1 tenth quicker on fast lap, and about .2 tenths quicker on top 15 average over a 5min run. Definitely right off the bat, was quicker. And with some current setup changes and changing it more for me, it's gotten slightly quicker than that. It's been awesome so far!

Great idea! I'll do this here soon! :)

Awesome!! Looking forward to it👍🤙

Thank you! It's a good idea! I have a list of some topics I wanted to cover in a few future videos, so I will add this one down. Stay tuned and thanks for watching.

BRATS BRO!! Hope to see ya soon boss!

Yes, regardless of using the plastic or FT Aluminium bulkhead, I'll always use that brace.

Thank you!

That's a Jconcepts car stand. Should still be available on concepts.net

What wheels and tires are those

Possibly try taking everything back apart and start over. Maybe you looked over a step. If that doesn't work, I suggest bringing the kit to your local track to have someone experienced, go over the car. Hope this helped.

Hey! LP lipos in 2wd are very dependent on 1. Driving Style & 2. Class you are running. For the most part in 2wd Mod Buggy, it's always been favorable to have a heavier car, in the 1550-1570 range, it helps keep the cars calm and somewhat grounded with all the power they have, and with setup changes you can wake them up and make them more aggressive. In stock you always want to be as close to the ROAR/EFRA/BRCA minimum weight rule, to have the best acceleration and use of power, since being confined to a spec motor. I think if you run modified, you can run a LP lipo, and add battery wights under the lipo to bring weight up, and you can also compare running a normal 4500-5000mah, with little to no weight, and compare the differences in feedback and driving. In stock, you normally want as much runtime and longevity as possible to make sure the punch and drop off is minimal. But compare both if you run stock! Hope this helped :)

@@TheRcworld101 Awesome feedback! I run stock and plan on doing some testing between the two to see what I prefer. I've been running the LP battery since I started racing 10 months ago.

@@TheRcworld101 also the one time I have put a full pack in my 2wd it traction rolled multiple times. Any remedies?

@@newo12 It can be a mixture of things, from roll centers, camber, shock package, ride height. Try resetting or going on the AE website, to see what might best suit your track conditions, and try one of the posted setups and adjust from there!

I would say if I ran 17.5t stock buggy I would have a cut out for my motor fan. But in mod, heat is never really a big issue unless you run carpet or turf. But for clay, they get warm, but never danger levels when running off-road clay.

I want to think that most of the setup should transfer over. Just need to make a few accommodations for the new shocks, and newer parts. One of our locals recently went from a B6.1 to a B6.4, minor setup changes from his base setup sheet and was pretty close in feel on the track!

@@TheRcworld101 I’m in no rush to upgrade. Might just wait for the b7

Good question. I think it all comes down to driving style and track. When running the 73mm rear end, with wide pivot setups, I normally found that the car rotated a little more off power, and on exit also seemed to carry more on power steering.On flowing, bigger tracks the 73mm rear end for ME, felt that it lacked a little stability, I normally prefer a car with a lot of steering, but the rear is planted and stable, vs some others like the rear to feel lighter more reactive to wheel inputs. With the 75mm setup, with a narrow pivot, I felt that the car is more stable on exit and off power, probably carry a little more overall corner speed due to being able to hold more speed vs the narrower 73mm setup. Again all of this goes on driving style, grip levels and track. I would say if you're on a technical or smaller track, the 73mm setup will probably favor that condition. If you are on a bigger track, more open and high speed, maybe similar to a Hobby Action, Ohio Rc Factory or tracks that are relatively open, I think you'll like the 75mm setup. Our track is mix between open and fast and also technical in some spots, but I prefer the 75mm setup for ME. Hope this helps! :)

@@TheRcworld101 What are the part #'s for the C & D blocks you are using with the 75mm arms? Didn't catch it being mentioned in the video and just want to be sure before I consider purchasing. Thank you.

@@slakr Kit C/D blocks. No need to swap C/D plates.

@@TheRcworld101 Thank you so much for replying.

The layback transmission, uses the smaller idler gear and also the top cover that covers the ball diff, has layback stamped on the inside of the mold. The bigger idler gear will only fit in one of the two gearboxes too. So the one that does accept the bigger idler gear and is not stamped "Layback" will be your laydown one. Hope this helps!

@@TheRcworld101 thanks I appreciate it!!!

@@TheRcworld101 the one I put in , the chassis brace doesn't line up to tje chassis holes closest to battery

Soon! Lol