It is upsetting to see how metal and plastic parts for the ski are deteriorated . You would figure that the parts would be made of materials that do not fall apart since it is a vehicle that is in the water....salt or fresh. Thanks for making the vids. It has given me tips on what to expect when I try to get my Yamaha Waverunner running again. I plan to use Fluid Film spray to at least keep exposed metal parts from corroding as fast. JwgK
What year is your Waverunner? I just finished rebuilding the engine on my 2001 XL800 and will be putting it back in the ski soon. Waiting for a good day to clean out the hull before putting it back in. I had to replace the crank oil seals so I went ahead and dismantled the entire engine, cleaned it up and replaced all of the gaskets. It may take a while to organize the videos, but it will be on youtube at some point.
@@papadonjetski9535 I think it is a 1997. I bought it and trailer for $100....not running, seized steering and reverse cables as well as corroded fuel/ reserve petcock. It is a 2 stroke and like many older ski's , it had oil residue inside the hull. I had to remove the exhaust system to get to the starter. Bad design to have the starter deep in the sump area....water and corrosion issues. I did a partial rebuild, got it running and out in the Gulf inter-coastal for testing. I found the sump suction hoses cracked, which did not expel the water and oil residue and causing a mess. Next time I start working on it, I will replace as much of the sump and cooling hoses as well as fuel and oil injection hoses just to be safe. I also will use stainless hose clamps ( I prefer the spring clamps which expand and contract) so that I will avoid leaks. Safe boating Don.
I think one problem is they started adding ethanol to fuel around 2004. These skis being produced in the 90s weren't designed for ethanol. Seadoos have the most problems with ethanol fuel. Their oem grey Tempo fuel lines react with the ethanol and brass fittings that makes a green goo that clogs up the tiny filters inside the carbs. Causes them to run lean and sieze.
Yes. Getting it back in was much easier because of what I learned in taking it out. First, drain the tank. Second, unbolt the top cover surrounding the handle bars and raise it up just enough to get a piece of a 2x4, or whatever you may have, wedged in to hold it up. That will raise the vent tubes that are above the tank and create much needed space to lift the tank. Third, remove the bracket that the tank straps connect to. That bracket may not seem like it is high enough to cause a problem, but it definitely was an issue keeping me from sliding the tank forward. Once done you should be able to lift the tank up and pull it forward. Now, hold the neck of the tank and rotate it on its side and it will come right up and out of the ski.
