It's always refreshing to see a car charger teardown. The simplicity of basically just buck/boost converters compared to a complex fully fledged AC-DC wall outlet adapter circuit always amazes me for some reason lol
0:51 As I read, only on TypeC port 2 it will provide 15/20V this when powered from 24V (like a truck), so this means port 1 would still do 20V... as their previous car chargers can; only 20V@3A for port 1 and 20V@1.5A for port 2. 2:45 The PCB design shows a buck-boost fr port 1, so this will most likely deliver 20V.
These chargers are super useful for even non-car situations as the input value can range from about 10-28V easily (12-14 for family car, 24V because of trucks). I power them from older Lenovo laptop power bricks at 20V and therefore provide a efficient re-use, or you put them onto a Lipo pack that is used for your quadcopter or RC car. ;-)
Disapppointing this is only 20@3A for TypeC port 2, 20@1.5A for port 2 = 90W total... and the USBA is 20V QC5, so max at about 65W? According to the specs the C1 should be 100W max but not seeing this in the readout... and USB is max 30W. Somehow the readings are wrong... and that can be based on the input. Some of the BaseUS car adapters will only output the max power of 20V in those specs if the supply is OVER 12V. This might mean your input voltage is not adequate?
Let's also consider for a moment the BaseUS promotional material; Some of that includes an exploded diagram of the board design/layout. While the chips shown look very generic they went to the effort to show a matching layout ;-D
most cars with 12v electrical system only supports 10amp max from cig lighter so its limited to max of 120w and even then it will probably blow the fuse quick . this is more useful for truck and bus drivers as all semi trucks and coach buses have 24v electrical system to reduce cranking current of the big diesel engine.
I also noticed the actual protocols do not count up to the expected max wattage. most likely the input voltage wasn't over 12V as BaseUS describes in their documentation. A lot of the desktop supplies with a cigarettes plug only barely power at 12V. It explains part of the missing readout. Note: a 10A fuse on these plug is not that common anymore. I checked mine just recently and it has a 15A blade fuse.
I would have loved to see how much REAL power it provides on 12V. That is really the test that is worth most for me in any charger. But anyways. Thanks! Because 160W, out of this thing in 12V? No way that is 15 Amps, no car-plug will even have the cable in it to do that. And Baseus knows that. So how much does it REALY charge?
This charges my laptop capable of 100 watt USB-C charging. It's a great charger but eventually melts a bit at the end causing for a loose connection and also eventually stops charging at 100 watts. Starts charging intermittently like crazy. It gets too hot. I have a 18 Kia Optima LX 2.4. This would have been the perfect charger as it works better than similar ones. I can't tell if it's something with my car, my laptop, or the charger. Wish I can pinpoint it 😢
so, I just ordered this one, do you think it will last a long time (3+years) if mainly 2 devices are connected for less than ~130watt draw? it's just nice to get a few more % charge on the way home during my short trip. also, would it work in a 3-way 12v splitter because I also have my dashcam running off 12v ? I doubt my dashcam draws more than 30w.
Hypothetically speaking. Could I tear this down and hook it up to 4x 21700 cells @ 3.6v nominal each, delivering 14,4v and house it. Making a powerbank PD fast charger of 80w+ PD? (I would need a circuit to charge the batteries too!) Is this possible?
As the charger uses Yunxing Electronics, 35V, 100μF for the input filtering, does this mean that the charger would be able to handle an input voltage of up to 35v?
0:45 You state that "the charger can output 15V/20V only under 24V input". This is not correct I have this charger and can use it to charge my Dell XPS laptop at 20V with my 12V battery using the C-1 port.
Test of my baseus VCKX65C (65W): Dell laptop Lattitude 5520: input 11,6V -> usbc: 20,6V/2,6A (54W) with cpu at 100% (stress web page) smartphone Samsung A52s : usbc 9,5V/1,35A (12,8W)
This converter has no way of knowing the size of the cigarette lighter fuse. It is the connected device that determines the power required. P=U I -> 100W=12V*8A.
Thank you for this teardown How do you think, can this charger provide PD 20V from 18v lithium battery? The problem that on fresh battery input volage will be 21v and then drops to 17V during discharge.
That’s what I’m wondering! Idle is already pretty high, and at full load it’s outputting ~5w as heat. Plus bright blue interior lights while night driving aren’t safe
@@GraeDay I ended up putting it in my under-armrest 12v plug, so I never see the lights, and with a short c-c angled cable I can put my phone under there and still close it, solved!
get some 3m xtreme double sided tape, stick the face to a table, or the back side of a plate so you can watch the progress abit closer, theres 2 clips centered left and right, now just roll the the face of the charger while pulling firmly, now all you have to do is break one of the clips off and your in👍
Yes, but you will temporarily break the port if you use more than 120w, until you buy another 10 amp fuse. I wouldn't recommend using more than 100w on those ports continuously and/or concurrently
