"It's the love of the machine that brings you to that place where you're doing those modifications, and it's an understanding of that machine that makes those modifications successful." THIS. THIS ALL DAY LONG.
I like to modify my vehicles but I like to do it in a "as stock as possible" approach. I supercharged my civic and I still have the stock intake and panel filter on there, and all the emissions stuff. I don't want it to be loud as hell or uncomfortable, I just want more power, and I also didn't want to ruin the car so that no one else could operate it. But I completely agree on the "dislike" for repairing modified cars. You have the supporting documentation (most of the time) to repair stock vehicles, but when someone splices in a bunch of junk or rewires a circuit it takes forever to reverse engineer it and figure out what's going on (if at all possible). And pretty often one of their mods is at fault... like a crappy cold air intake skewing MAF sensor readings, customer wants their lean / rich check engine light gone or a hesitation problem, and you have to tell them their intake is causing it, or maybe all the evap stuff they also probably removed. and left dangling because someone on the internet said all emissions stuff is bad for power.
volvo09 lol someone on the internet said so why would they lie? It's the illuminati mechanics trying to control us bro!!!! Like seriously bro wake up bro....Like bro
im a L1 9 yr in the biz and this guy is 100% on the money love the vids always learning new stuff from you and others on the you tubes keep it up and thanks
Lots of wisdom in this vid. I have a 2010 Speed 3 that's pretty much modded to the level that the next step is building the engine. With all of the mods, running about 30% ethanol blend, and tuned accordingly by one of the biggest names worldwide in Mazdaspeed tuning, I'm at about 380/380 in good weather at the wheels. I followed a strict, vetted out modding path from MSF.org. Things turned out good because there's tons of practical experience/Gurus and I followed their advice. Alternatively, some others have gone in blind and blown engines on the Speed platform very easily because of ignorance. Particularly on the 2nd gen Speed 3 (2010-2013), if you upgrade your downpipe without first getting upgraded HPFP internals to flow more, you will go lean because the stock tune will build a good deal more boost with the DP and basically explode the engine. Mazda's engineers didn't put a lot of extra headroom into the design. Going from 263/280 @ the crank to 380/380 @ the wheels most certainly wouldn't have been possible, either LOL. Anyways, moral of the story: A great forum can literally save you thousands of dollars.
When it comes to the cold air intake, Mighty Car Mods recently tried it out again on the S2000, and they found out that it made more power than the factory air box. And Jason from Engineering Explained tried a cold air intake on his Integra. He made more power at higher RPM, but also lost torque at the lower RPM. Whether you should install a cold air intake depends on how the factory intake does, but also depends on your driving style. If you drive at lower RPM, then it would be best to stick with the factory intake.
Henrik Nilsen Then again his point of professionals doing this counts. You can't tell if you've lost or made power by just adding something like that in without expensive equipment such as a dyno.
Henrik Nilsen Its important to recognize that the S200 is NA and the skyline they showed with no gains was Turbo. So CAI typically make gains on NA cars and not so much on turbo cars
***** Jason from EE has a clever method where he counts the number of frames in the video from when the rev counter goes from one point to another. Not the most accurate method and is prone to various factors, but a lot cheaper than a dyno.
I do a ton of research before I make a change to my 4x4. I also do all the work myself like you said because its not a daily and I like to take responsibility for my work. You actually learn a lot that way.
Eric i have been watching your videos for years now, i must say the video quality is KILLER!!!! Kindof cool watching your channel evolve over the years. Keep up the good work, and cant wait to see you beast out something.
Completely agree on doing research. I do own a small performance parts company and we make a point to carry and recommend the best possible brands and specific parts. However we make a point to figure out what the customer expects to gain expects to spend and what if any modifications they currently have. On the flip side cost does not always make something better than another brand
OMG LOVED this video. Loved the MCM name drop and thought the whole video was incredibly relevant and enlightening! Thank you. Ps lol at "there goes your ability to drive over speed bumps" Ha! Thanks Eric
Eric, I totally agree with your stance on modified vehicles. I have a 92 Volvo 740 which I have modified lightly myself, with the help and knowledge of Volvo forums and owners clubs. The one thing I can say about cone-style air intakes (i dont call them cold-air unless they have an enclosure separating the engine bay from the intake) is that in some cases they will improve throttle response on your vehicle. This is not the case for every car, but I have certainly known some to accelerate a bit more willingly with a more free-flowing filter.
I recently picked up a 1999 Chevy Suburban (GMT400) and I'm going to be modifying it to make it a comfortable and capable vehicle for years to come. First on the agenda? New tires (Stock size), fixing all the little issues it has, and stainless steel brake lines.
Eric is spot on. When I added a turbo kit to my 1998 Integra GSR. I knew that car and engine like the back of my hand. I did all the work on it and it never crossed my mind to take it to the dealer. In fact, I trusted no one to work on the car. I still have the dyno results of that thing making 270 wheel HP from stock 180 (I think). Those were the good old days.. I grew out of that, now have a baby on the way and looking for a minivan ;/ That's life...
I work at a hod rod shop so modified vehicles are the regular. But from a professional point of view, i 100 percent see your point. My truck is heavily modified but ive done my research on every upgrade/modification. Like pairing new heads with a cam that will benifit those heads. Dont skimp on price when you modify a vehicle, do your homework on what you want to do and weigh the pros and cons so you have an idea of the outcome
I have a 96 f150 with a 351. Every bit of the drivetrain has been modified. Almost everything is a stock performance part from another ford model. My heads are off a 93 cobra 302 which have bigger valves and higher compression, my 1.7 ratio roller rockers are made by crane cams for ford mustang cobras from 93-95, my cam is from ford racing and so are the lifters, push rods are made by trick flow (very reputable company) my e40d transmission has internals out of a newer 4r100 so its stronger and more reliable, i wanted a limited slip diff so i used a factory ford trac loc lsd out of a ford explore. Its cheap, reliable and super easy to rebuild. I tried to take the best factory parts and i apply them to my specific vehicle. Only down side so far is a small loss in fuel mileage.
We are in our sixties my husband and I and both our cars are 49 and 47 years old respectively. Driven daily and have been modified with aftermarket fuel systems and computers. Original engines in both, one is a 289 and the other is a 383. The 289 has 95 hp more than the advertised version and the 383 has 90 hp more than the advertised version. Other modifications have been done to obtain these numbers. Also suspension mods have been implemented but not over done. My husband says the new high performance cars i.e. Hellcat, CTS-V's, Mustangs are nice but to do what he has done to our cars would require and engineering degree if it is to be done correctly. The computers on board are very sensitive to changes in hardware upgrades, i.e. cams, exhaust, injectors, ignitions, so forth. The legality of modifications on these new cars with aftermarket products will come into question when fatalities are involved. Like Microsoft, GM, Ford, and Chrysler are heading into that direction of proprietary and intellectual properties and ownership of software. We will keep our old cars until we are in the ground. Both our cars have pass emissions test.
A friend of my modified his Z28 Camaro by adding super charger, cam change and rocker arm change. The problem? Having to go to a Smog referee every time he needs a smog check. In California, any speed equipment needs an E.O. number to show it's approved. You will see tons of modified cars for sale because they can't get it smogged.
I am also a member on a forum called Just Commodores , an Australian based forum for the Australian built GM- Holden Commodore , it's where , apart from ETCG , I have picked some tips , but mainly they got some good advice on CAI , exhausts and tuning ideas to get the best from your Commodore .
I agree 100% with what Eric says in this video. I live in France so sadly I can't share it with my friends, since most don't understand English as much as I do. But I would like to, since lots of people out there do not understand that every modification done to their car in order to improve it should be backed up by knowledge, facts and at least a bit of understanding of why each stock component was built this way. Else like Eric said you can easily waste a whole lot of money without reaching the expected results. I liked the part where he mentioned trade offs. People also tend to forget that too. Some guys just throw stiffer aftermarket coilovers and think their car handles better than stock because it's lower and has less body roll. The thing is, and I've realized it over time, there's actually lots of work and parts involved in order to make a car really handle better than it did out of the factory. Same goes for engine modifications; sure you can get more power out of anything but what about actually putting this power to the ground ? What about making good power/torque across the rev rang ? What about gear ratios ? I could go on for hours on this. I am no expert though, just a young guy trying to figure out how to get the best out of his car. I'll just add a word on aftermarket intakes. I bought a SRI from Injen knowing I would not get any actual hp or torque gain. Why did I get it then ? Because it makes VTEC sound better/louder than with the stock airbox. And I love it. Sometimes, improving the driving experience is worth spending a few hundred bucks, even though there is no performance gain. :)
Love the rant Eric you should do it more often! And one mod I wish would go away for good, 24" and 26" wheels on an Escalade. Would make my life a lot easier.
I modified a 2001 Integra GS literally with every bolt on possible. DC sports ceramic 4-2-1 header, fuel rail, wires, plugs, cat, Greddy EVO Full Catback, Skunk2 coilovers (for lowering), AEM V2 cold air intake, you name it i had it. HOWEVER prior to doing any of it i bought nearly a half a dozen Honda books from people who were experts at modification, spent 2+ years on TeamIntegra.Net... AND some of the books had even tested the products vs. competitors in the same line. In the end, i drove the car for many years this way and loved it dearly. It was beautiful and i was attached to it because i had done the work myself and built a bond with it. It made you feel like you were going 150mph doing 85-90... cornered like it was on rails and sounded deep and growly (for a 4cyl). Ultimately, i out grew it and ended up trading it for 1500 on my '13 328i sport. I miss it.. but i spent A PILE of money i never expected to get out. Build what you want... but do it for you. No one else will ever appreciate (or pay you for) the extra 'love' you put in.
I did a CAI not for power but to clean up the engine bay and allow me to get easier access to other things. It did make it a little louder but getting to shifter cables, slave, starter bolts, and power steering pump hoses became a lot easier!!
fordwindsor351 Not garbage if, like Eric said, it's well engineered, installed correctly the computer gets re-mapped, fuel injectors up-sized, MAF or MAP sensor upgraded and exhaust sized to accommodate, you can see 15-20HP gains. Did one on a 07 Sentra SER Spec V and gained 18HP on the dyno. Of course that CAI ended costing 10 times the price due to new injectors, aftermarket MAF and finding the right plugs.
Many claims are highly exaggerated, it was and is a BS claim to gain HP. Its all for looks and an audible difference, in the few makes and models that have a restricted air flow, adding one of the kits isn't going to gain HP alone.
fordwindsor351 I had a 2000 F-150 with the 5.4 engine and a K&N cold air intake. The only increase it did was provide louder weird noises from the throttle body and vacuum system of the engine. It was on the truck when I bought it as a clean new truck trade, and the cost to return back to the GOOD factory airbox cost more than the K&N system did. Total waste of time and money. Now the Magnaflow dual exhaust - who cares... it sounded great!
Regarding "bolt-ons don't add power" I know what Eric is trying to say but I want to add my thoughts (which he might agree with). This statement is absolutely true for most cars especially Hondas (mainly pre K series, sorry Honda guys) but is less true for boosted applications or some larger CID motors. For ex a bolt on turbo supra or a bolt on supercharged cobra or even a Ls series . For these examples bolt-Ons make relatively large gains compared to other cars especially when combined with a tune. Bolt-ons are foundational for giant HP gains. So when you want to make 600whp+ say goodbye to your stock exhaust or plastic intake (for most cars). Love the show Eric , I can't wait for more upgrades
ETCG1 you have to read this...... Eric I have to agree with you for the most part. I know there are alot of people that wont agree but as a former mechanic Ive seen some pretty stupid stuff. I saw a teenager on his early 3rd gen Z28 350 TBI put fuel booster in his washer fluid bottle and take those hose that went to his wiper sprayer and put it directly into his Throttle bottle. He thought when he uses his sprayer it would dump all that fuel in and give him tons of more power. Which all it did was make black smoke and run to rich. LOL He actually came in for an unrelated issue I think brakes or front suspension Neat idea in theory I guess but it was one of those slap your forehead kind of moments. I think for noobs the best way is join a forum that is specifically for that car that they are working on. Im on several and help many people out. Same as some of my videos on RU-vid Great vid
This discussion reminds me of the "DPO" or "Dreaded Previous Owner" of antique vehicles that my fellow car guys and I sometimes end up cursing while working on our cars. LOL Nice topic!
The advantage of the Internet is that there are forums for just about *every* car out there now. You no longer have to be lucky to find that *one guy* in your state who knows how to modify your obscure make/model -- you just do a Google search, and you're connected to a *bunch* of people all over the world who own that very same vehicle and can relate their experiences.
6:12 This I've learned as well. You wanna improve your vehicle? It's going to cost you. Car makers are trying to keep costs down so they go with "best bang for the buck". You CAN buy aftermarket parts that perform much better than stock parts (coilovers of quality is a good example) but it also comes at a cost to the car. Increased wear on suspension parts and a stiffer ride. Always, always do good research and planning before modifying your car. And expect it to cost a lot. If not, there's not point in doing it.
35 viewers are Honda Civic owners who don't like you hating their super baller mad cold air intake, D16Y8 with a B15 head, D21 crank, Husavarna pulley and Kitchen Aid blender 'making like 500hp easy'
+TinPinFTW Husavarna pully made my day! In defense of civics their great to start out with because of all the interchangeable parts. When my clutch went out I replaced my trans with a later model that had a shorter final drive and it made a considerable difference.
+uncreativename I'm not a Honda fan at all, but good on ya, using stock parts for a performance upgrade(shorter gearing)...lol it probably feels like 25hp to ya.been there in the Vw world, they had tons of different ratio boxes for mk1/2.
So apparently Subaru fan boys are better? With your ridiculous mud flaps, huge cannon exhaust, lowered absurdly to the point where it can't go off-road and sticker bombing. Smh picking on the smaller guy (Hondas). My e46 m3 would kick any Subaru's ass
Cold air intakes are a valuable power increasing modification, but only when the vehicle doesn't already have one and it's done right. And the point of them is not to increase power but to keep from loosing power as the engine bay gets hotter during a run. They don't add any power unless the stock air intake was really bad to start with.
That part about doing your homework/research is so true. I'm a mod on a car forum, and i see a lot of people wanting the info spoonfed to them. I see that attitude on the forum's FB page, too. It's sad that so many are too lazy to actually do the research necessary before doing what they want to do. A lot of the regulars, myself included, tell them in many different ways to do the research.
I like mods which are an actual engineering improvement upon OEM design. Spherical bearings vs rubber bushings in control arms. Aforementioned steel braided brake lines vs rubber lines. Redesigned strut mounts with replaceable bushings. Things which mainly were not put on the vehicle at the factory due to increased cost.
Spherical bearings result in increased NVH compared to rubber bushings. Se strut mounts use much harder bushes, some use pillowballs. Most of them result in increased NVH. Yes, they last longer, for guys like us, it's great because the car becomes stiffer and more responsive, but also harsher and louder. For the average person, those attributes make the car less comfortable, while the improvements don't usually impress them because they'll never make use of them.
I really like this discussion, I've modified my 95 Integra with some suspension parts and an exhaust system for the sound. I've been burned before for not doing my research like purchasing a coilover set with too high of a spring rate and it makes the car unbearable on long trips but overall i modified it to perform better while auto crossing and its much better at that but its no longer a multi use every day car. I know whats gone where and I rarely let others work on it
As always awesome video man. This might be bit of a personal query, but as a fan of your contribution and knowledge sharing, I can't imagine who's gonna carry on your ETCG legacy when all your human life transcends beyond this dimension?
So very true. Obviously he has actually worked as a tech. Some mods can make a difference though. Mainly on turbo only vehicles. Other than that i feel is a rebuild of the engine. Great video for the average personal use !
Good information you share with us. I have been around a long time and seen a lot of worse than useless modifications. More's law states"if a little is good, to much is just rite". Carefully thought out modifications can make some useful improvements. Example-your chassis stiffener mods on the fairmont. Make the care handle a little bit better but slow down the acceleration and decrease fuel mileage(added weight). Ok, you know that and are happy with the small trade off for a stiffer car body. I have done engine swaps etc. Usually, it works out ok but was it cheaper/better than trading up to the car you could have bought with the improvements already there? NO, usually its better to trade up. A long time ago hot rod magazine said" put on good radial tires and good shocks(struts now a days) and QUIT. more than that is not likely to help.
I like engineering explained's video explaining the difference between cold air and stock. He goes a lot more into the maths on the subject. Not that I don't like MCM but I just like the deeper explanation.
I used to work at a dealer, and a big thing the electrical/driveability techs got came in as warranty claims on newer cars but a lot of time they ended up being related to some type of aftermarket mod, and they always seemed to be conflicting with the security or other computers, and a lot of time the answer was to remove said mod in order for the vehicle to work right.
as a fellow mechanic, that like my cars and loves my motorcycles, I really leave my powertrain alone. Like you said there is very little room for major improvement (apart from an engine build). I show my love of my vehicles by setting aside time on weekends to properly take time and really maintain them. I know my motorcycles coolant is good for 3 years, but I'll change it sooner, and plugs and valve clearance. I want to continue enjoying my vehicles. I do however make most of them a little louder than stock lol.
+InDaJeep4x4 Not a mechanic - looking for advice. Just bought a new Moto Guzzi; have done the initial 1500km service per the manual (oil, trans fluid, valve gap etc, done at the dealership ). According to the owners manual, the next oil change/service is at 10,000kms. Between now and next November, I'm not sure if I will reach that milage interval next year. My plan was to have the next scheduled service (oil change, valve gap, etc.) sometime next fall, before winter storage, or at the service interval, whichever comes first. My concern is that if I don't follow the manual to the letter, and perform the work at 6,000kms, it may harm the bike. What are your thoughts - with thanks in advance.
I dont really know a lot about moto guzzi in particular ( I was a technician at a Victory,Suzuki,Yamaha dealer) and it's best to store the vehicle over winter period if not used with fresh oil, new filter. Changing it sooner will never be a bad thing, The valve clearance check can wait util its scheduled time. Also consider a fuel stabilizer (especially if your fuel contains any ethanol) while stored, store with a full tank(this prevents corrosion from forming inside of tank, very common on motorcycles). Transmission fluid should be ok over winter time as it should not be contaminated (such as the small amount of unburnt fuel that will end up in engine oil.). Also a good idea to start engine once a week and let run until warm, this will keep oil on engine cylinder walls as well as prevent battery from discharging and extend its service life.
+InDaJeep4x4 See! - this is one of the things that is GREAT about this channel: a guy like me, who hasn't got a clue, can ask what I'm sure professionals would call a simple, stupid, idiotic, question - and there's no snark. No attitudes or call outs or insults. Just guys like me getting clear information and help from guys who know what they are doing. InDaJeep4X4 - Thank you. I would have never thought of separating routine oil changes from gapping the valves per scheduled maintenance. FWIW, I have a Battery Tender Jr. plugged into the bike. And I will run till warm over the winter months, store it with a full tank and make sure there is the correct amount of fuel stabilizer in the tank. And i'll run it while stored - I love the Guzzi sound. Cheers - M
The cold air intake thing is all about the 'induction' noise more than HP. That's why I don't bother with one. I drive a vvtli corolla similar to VTEC operation and all the fanboys have them. Such an honest video everything u said is true. Often the money u spend on mods cud be spent on buying a better car with more HP from factory and with better handling characteristics. 4x4 + turbo is the best combo IMHO.
one of the things that get me is the people that call ALL aftermarket air intakes "cold air" intakes. Because there are 2 types, the TRUE cold air intakes that go down behind the bumper and the SHORT-RAM intakes that get there air from the engine bay.
Great video - a lot of truth dropped here. The only power upgrades that are worth it cost a lot of money e.g. forced induction or engine swaps. On the other hand, suspension and brake upgrades often make a big difference.
Eric, I don't think using the word "ignorance" is going to go over well with that ever so small group of over sensitive people. When I was in automotive school one of my teachers use to say "When it comes to cars people aren't stupid, they're just uneducated".. I use that saying all the time. I think its the least hurtful and it gets the point across pretty clearly!
garretts91 My auto teach would flat out tell you your "Fucking stupid' when you think something like a cold air intake would make +30 hp. He was and still is a very blunt man and I think ignorance is the perfect word for what he is explaining, if he wanted to he could had used what my auto teach would say, or other things worse than ignorance. People would get butt hurt any way cause they think and believe one thing like "MY HONDA SOHC WITH VTEC IS FASTER THAN ANYTHING DOHC JUST WITH MY INTAKE AND BODY KIT AND LOWERED YO!"
778i2 Ignorant is a synonym of uneducated. I could care less about some Honda fan boy. I'm talking about your average car owning American. 99% of them are totally capable of learning their way around a car but, they've never been taught how. Say I jumped into the cockpit of a plane with a pilot and he told me to fly it. I'd tell him I've never flown a plane so I cant. Does that make me ignorant or uneducated? Whether a person doesn't know how to fix their car or they've modified it without knowing the true benefits or attempted to fly a plane when they haven't before, uneducated sounds more accurate to me.
Or those sensitive ass idiots can pull their heads out of their asses and realize it's not an insult. I'm not the kind of guy to tip toe through the tulips and if those pansies are wanna be car mod guys they need a lesson in having tough skin. Just my honest opinion.
I'll say that I slapped a cheap cone filter on my 2005 Ford Focus and it made a difference. Maybe not in horsepower, but the throttle response of the car was definitely better and it also sounded better. I think the main reason for this is that the stock airbox is designed for PZEV and is very restrictive.
My truck is a tbi. On average even with my hot air intake my manifold intake temps drop 20-30 degrees inside the manifold on heavy acceleration. But that's because it sort of uses the venturi effect but mostly has to do with fuel atomization taking heat out of the air. I have a phenolic spacer which does not transfer heat to the throttle body which helps in the effect also. If I had a proper cold air intake to the fender well because I do use my truck like a truck I would see probably in excess of 40 degree temp drops. It all comes down to how well insulated the air system is. Say you have a plastic intake system. You'll see colder intake temps because it does not absorb the ambient heat generated by the engine as much. Now if you heat wrap it like I do everything including my rad hoses(so sue me) I see less heat in the engine bay and by doing that you get colder intake temps. If you properly set up a cold air system to can gain possibly around 10-15 crank hp. The reason it works is because the colder the air is the more dense it is meaning you can burn more fuel which means making more power. now I've also tuned my tbi truck to stupid timing levels. 41 degrees total advance and running 93 this seems to be ok to a point. Don't smash me. I know stock pre 96 heads don't flow that great.
EricTheCarGuy Just for instance, on a turbo car like mine, I installed a Cold Air Intake, Catless Downpipe, and Front Mount Intercooler, and without a tune I went from 161whp to 198whp 37whp gain from bolt on's. And then with a tune I went from 192whp to 245whp. I never go to the dealer unless its related to something I did not do. So it is not always a waste.
***** yes thats right, i see where etcg1 is not happy about mod cars in his bay because im one of them costumers, i did quarter mile back in the 90s then moved to track in the mid 2000s but now with kids its just a hope to go back into mod cars
***** back before the information super highway we all hang out in shops, now you can purchase full engine with trany and ecu online. I miss the good ol days seem now all my buddys all we do is call each other and talk about cars not build cars like we use to
I tried the Civic Si route (both were model year 2000) and they were both stolen before I had them for six months. As much as I loved them, the whole thing just made me never want to get a "performance car" again, because they're too easy to pick out and steal. I have a relative beater now (2001 Saab Viggen convertible) and it was the "performance" car in the Saab line. The best part of it is that nobody knows how almost scary-fast the car is and they won't even think twice when they look at it.
From working in the auto industry for over thirty years, I can honestly say that when it comes to building a car, the one consistent thing is guys with no plan just throwing parts at a car and praying that it will work.
My favorite car has always been the 94-97 accord coupe. I have had 4 so far and know every little detail about them. I do all the work myself (or most of it). I have modified a couple of them succesfully but always made sure to take no short cuts and use quality parts. The one I just sold had 132whp on bolt ons and a tune. If you love the car, and dedicate your time amd money into doing things right, modifying your car will be worth it.
No joke, i gained over 30 whp from a cold air intake kit and a good dyno tune. not sure if the gains came from the new air filter or just a good tune, but i'm happy.
One thing you could have mentioned: "Purchase Justification" - It happens with vehicle parts, vehicles, firearms, ammunition, tools, tableware - you name it. The internet and 90% of our friends and forum writers - and seemingly 100% of acquaintances - will go to lengths to justify the money they spent on an item. They will tell you how great a part or thing is in some meek way of re-assuring themselves that they spent their money and time wisely. It has something to do with people's egos, and any new person coming to the world of vehicle modifications should be wary of those who make claims. Most people seemingly cannot view things they've bought or invested in objectively - in other words, they seemingly cannot distance their review of that item from the initial 'bond' of that item since it was the one they they chose, ended up with, bought or otherwise invested time in.
Wow. Spot on. You are discribing me and my first car. I learned on that car. I knew "which bolt not to touch", specifically a motor mount bolt that I cross threaded and broke the head off of so there was only one bolt left. Yes I did it, guilty, im and idiot, lesson learned. And I drove that car on one right motor mount bolt, tightening it every time id check the oil since it had a tendency to shake loose, for another year until it died for another reason that was not worth repair. LOL Goood times. But now i know the importance of not forcing things in there and if something wont go in, to stop and figure out why. I owe alot to that old POS Chrysler.
I've done quite a few aftermarket parts, but they all replace the original with good quality made in the USA parts! I've got poly bushings allover everything, nice poly engine mounts, stiffer sway bars, but they do not modify the location of original parts. I've had my vehicle go in to service (because I had lack of time), the technician would have no issue working on my car because the modifications are actual useful ones that don't change anything. You never take the sway bar off the car honestly, but if you did it's in the original location using original bolt holes etc. I do have one modification, HID lights (yes I know, a touchy subject). I got projector lamps and bulbs from a company I very much trust, it's legal in my state, and the only modification that might affect a mechanic is that the ballasts are now attached to the top of the headlight housing. They would need to be removed to get the headlights out. Even the power that powers the ballasts (a cable I made myself) I attached to the battery cable so that you don't even know it's there. I also do have a K&N air filter, but not for the reason you'd think. The factory airbox draws air from the inner fender, and it's located about 6 inches above the ground. The manual actually states that if you drive through water deeper than 6 inches you'll suck water into the turbo and the motor and seize it. Because I live somewhere that floods fairly often I got the K&N filter so that the air is now coming from a good 24 inches above the ground. Basically water would pour in the cabin before the engine was taking in water now. Some might think it's a silly reason, and it very well could be, but it makes me feel better if I absolutely have to drive through a 4 inch deep area of water.
with the intake, it actually helped me when there was flooding and i had to go through massive puddles. having the intake up near the engine was of course worse for performance but while people were getting hydrolocked i was cruisin through lol
ETCG1 I was considering larger sway bars, front and rear, and a billet Watt's link and billet LCAs for my '02 Crown Victoria LX to help with the car's boat-like handling. The mods are significantly more expensive than OE replacements, but are said to help reduce the car's boat-like tendencies and allow for smoother and faster recovery over uneven surfaces or corner transitions. They are, by definition, "bolt on performance", but with tons of positive feedback around the 'net and built by trusted companies here in the US, you wouldn't consider that a total waste of money, would you? I'll be doing them while replacing my worn out original shocks with Bilstein units and leaky air springs with brand new Arnott HD units as well. I know you can't make a car whose frame design debuted the same year as your Fairmont, but I do think it can be improved just a bit.
I only began using nodded parts when the stock stuff started to break and the dealer charged an arm and a leg. It's best just to stick with mild tweaks that don't massively change things in regard to engine mechanics/electronics and some other stuff if you still want to take your sled back to a dealer.
EXACTLY Eric those modding their cars do not do the research, or spend the money on the quality proven hardware upgrades and as you said and I quote "Have No Idea What They Are Doing" Well put sir. I see the same thing at my office when I get end users that mod their computers and darn it isn't working like it used to and I have to make all kinds of additional changes in order to make their mods work or remove the mods altogether. People be it cars or computers Do Your Research first then spend the money on the better equipment.
I have bought a "cold air intake" for my car, but the reason is not for "cold air", my car is a 2003 Crown Victoria, and the factory intake piping runs in right angles made to make the car quieter, and provide easier access to the oil filler cap (EASIER access..) The cold air intake I got, even though the filter itself is in the SAME SPOT, the tubing to the throttle body was curved and twisted unnecessarily compared to the STRAIGHT one of the K&N intake. I also went to the extent of going for a couple dyno runs (the place by me had a discount on dyno runs) and I proved a small gain over the factory system. NO WHERE NEAR the 30hp claims, but a consistent 8 maybe 9hp gain over factory. Some mods are ACTUALLY what they say but like ETCG1 Said, do your research for YOUR CAR. For me, everyone on the forums agreed that there was a performance gain, and in the case of THIS VEHICLE there was... but all cars differ, and you need to see what works for YOUR vehicle.
On any vehicle, the first mods I would consider would focus on the parts that are expected to wear and perform a critical mechanical or safety function.Tires and brakes would be my starting point. Next I would look at items that were specifically safety related, such as mirrors and auxiliary lighting. OEM parts that seemed to degrade unusuallly fast would be my next priority. I try to use direct replacement parts - bolt-in replacements, made of better materials by known major manufacturers.
When I bought my Fiesta ST, it was a very easy decision to stay on the reserve, so to speak. Did the Cobb thing up to the end of what they offered. I now feed it the right fuel, and call it a day. I know that I'm going to sacrifice very minimal gains vs various and sundry fuckery available in a complete DIY run, but that's ok.
Michael let me correct what you said here, Cold Air Intakes are not a waste of money IF one is purchased that has a shield and seals that block off the hot engine heat from the intake air cone filter. Or an Air Intake that has the filter and tube that is mounted just inside the wheel well above the fender liner again where actual cooler air is brought in away fro the heat of the engine bay. THE CAI Kits that ARE a waste of money are the types that plug right into the throttle body and have short intake tubes that take HOT Engine Air from with in the engine bay like those you see on many modified street cars belonging to inexperienced car modders that do bot know any better. Plus CAI kits alone only add minimal HP a proper setup consist of adding a high flow catalytic converter, equal length headers with a proper high flow low restriction exhaust, then also to do this right one needs to change the fuel injector to a higher flow type. Its a whole science to do the mod properly in order to get the HP gains one is seeking
I am sorry my friend they are, actually the VERY guy here (Eric the car guy) shares that with me. In one of his videos he explains it that it's not a significant investment at all to gain HP.
Michael reread what I said and you will understand. I have first hand experience with my 01 Accord LX and I know what I am talking about. I did the same for an 86 Pontiac Fiero, and a 94 Chevy Camaro. Plus 95 Honda Civic. All with noticeable gains about 30 horse power above stock readings. Again I soent the money on the better hardware, and did my research before putting wrench to engine. What is your experience in all respect sir. Thank you for your comments, this makes for good wholesome car guy and girl talk thank you.
I will in detail explain why it's bogus based on my experiences. 1 Most cars do not HAVE the intake close to the engine. Unless you got a shit can of a car.. 2 The box is SEALED where your filter is located, this is NOT where the shit is sucking in air (which is often already close to the grill or bend down sideways My vortec engine is a perfect example of that btw. 3 The AIR FILTER, how the fuck can a air filter that is X amounts of times bigger, restrict airflow to your body. IT DOES NOT... 4 My most favorite one, when they DO install a COLD air intake, 9 out of 10 times it sucks air in nearly the SAME AREA as the original I tried this on my Mustang 2012 and my old s10 1996....came to these conclusion
I've seen the mighty Car mods episode you mentioned about the no gain intake system, I've also seen they're latest intake test and on the Honda S2000 they used it actually made a substantial gain, they tried the standard air box and filter and it made a figure they then took the filter out of the factory air box and the car made the same power took the factory air box off and replaced it with a cold air intake and it make I think around a 10hp gain, so it's down to the car it depends if that's where the restriction is to make the car meet emissions an noise levels and so on
I wish mechanics would be more honest in labor times so they do not end up frustrated. I would pay slightly more if it kept someone from being scorned. I am one of those people that never takes a car anywhere. I have had to be bailed out once it went well they were very nice. One other time I was scared and they only did half the job but I paid for the full job. I would rather learn all I can but in the case of me getting half way in and becoming overwhelmed I would rather pay what its worth then worry about under paying and getting a crappy job due to rush or annoyance that I 'Touched" my car with out being certified or something. Thanks for the videos!
completely agreed. most of these mods as cold air intakes are juvenile. for example BMW has been doing factory cold air intakes for decades. they are heavily engineered cars. and dumb kids go and install intakes on them thinking they're upgrading their cars when in reality they've just spent $500 to make their car worse. of course this is the same for all makes I'm sure.
90% of bmw people who put bigger intakes on do it for the sound. Bmw goes out of its way to quiet down engines and exhausts to near nothing because they are a “luxury brand”.
