appreciate somebody else opening it up so I could compare the guts of my own SL220; so thanks for that. -- ,also you showed me how to reattach belt thanks very much. I kept the lid on which made flipping it over a snap but does kind of get in the way if you are trying to see how the arm interacts with the machinery on the underside, which is important with this old style cueing type tone arm.
Despite all the impressive meters on show, this came across as a shambles; chaotic and unprofessional. It made me think of almost a complete amateur, just 'having a go' at fixing a deck, with no real idea what they were doing at all. I lost count of all the OMG moments, including repeatedly dumping the stylus onto the record, and simply inverting the whole deck (unprotected) to work on it. I'm glad I wasn't paying this guy to work on my deck...but I feel a whole lot better about just doing the work myself now - so thanks for that!
I can't even make it through this video! So many things he's doing wrong I just can't take it! Plus that new belt looks way too tight. That'll do more damage than good.
@@akronman27 I know... Amozon belts are way.... Too tight. I've been fooled twice now. The true FBM23.6 Flat Belt, Medium 23.6 Inch belts for the SL models can be found on Turntable Needles.com. I got 2 for $22.
My collegeSL-220 I've had for 44 years was no longer able to set the pitch control accurately. I watched this, disassembled the unit, sprayed the two potentiometers with wd40 and voila, they work like a charm again. I guess if they stop working again I would try the deoxit mentioned in the comments below. For now I'm very happy and grateful!
Jim, very instructive video, appreciate the macro camera shots! I've got an old Technics SL 220 with similar issues. My belt looks shot as well, any recommendations on where to obtain a replacement belt. I've heard a lot of belts sold on eBay are junk. Appreciate any recommendations. Thanks.
Jim, thank you for this video. Out of nowhere, my Technics SL-230 turntable suddenly starting skipping on most of my albums, even newer vinyl. Have done the proper adjustments with checking the TT’s tracking force and anti-skate settings and cartridge alignment. Even moved the cartridge (Audio-Technica-VM95C) to my backup TT, a 504 Dual, and it worked fine on albums that had been skipping on my Technics. Tried the F3+ Grado cartridge from the Dual TT and the albums continued to randomly skip. So I know it’s mechanical with the Technics. Just not sure. Any suggestions?
Oh man, the weight of the turntable on that center spindle. I'm sorry but this is indeed very hard to watch. Also, putting the stylus on the table with the needle first?
I have an old sl-b202 and I haven't seen it yet, but it was my step mom's father's. My dad has it. He said the motor making a sound. I bought a belt just in case that's on the way, but could it just need a clean, regrease and maybe some oil in bearing?
From what I have learned there are two sets of bearings in the tone arm and the adjustment requires special tools . Does Gimbal make any sense? Anyway I enjoyed the video , many thanks
I could do with some help with a second hand SL220 I got cheap. I am getting very dull sound ie; virtually no treble frequencies, I am using a Project phono Box mm, newish AT95E with about 20 hrs on it feeding a Cambridge CX60 amp & Monitor Audio Silver 200's. The cartridge is set up perfectly, aligned with a protractor, tracking weight is 2 grams, anti skate etc 2g, arm is parallel with the record so VTA seems good. Have tried various brands of Phono interconnectors from the phono Box to the Amp but it sounds terrible. Listening to all the 220's with AT95's on youtube they all sound vibrant with plenty of treble bite but mine sounds as if someone has turned the treble control to min. whats going on here, I don't understand. I've had some great TT's over the years and they all sounded great but this one sounds all wrong. I don't think there's a fault with the Project Phono Box as I just upgraded it from an older Monacor phono amp, got same result. Wires on cartridge are correct and stylus is clean and fully inserted into body. All my records are in excellent condition so I'm baffled, anyone have any idea???
The drive motor on my Technics SLB 202 gives an rather loud clicking noise. Local audiophile shop quoted about £150-£170 for repair, and I said no to that. There must be a way to resolve this. Some online research indicates defective governor in the motor. Any bright ideas anyone? Thanks.
Please start using deoxit (or the like) on vintage gears' pots as a matter of course, even if something else fixes the issue. Wd-40 doesn't remove oxidation very well at all and it evaporates completely in a week or two. Deoxit is incredible at removing oxidation and it's lube is long lasting.
I had a hum also, and discovered that I had the ground attached to the main amp., but when I attached the ground to the separate pre-amp, the hum disappeared.
He needs a scale too...they're like $15 on Amazon, absolutely no reason for someone that repairs turntables not to have one. I'd bring up cartridge protractors and why you should use one, but I'm not sure that'd get through...also don't clean the grease that was purposely put between two moving parts (like he did.)
When I first read this comment I thought “NO IT’S NOT A P MOUNT” then turns out to be a p mount on an adaptor for a standard headshell. Interesting set up.
Watching you flip the turntable over without putting the dust cover back on the protect the tone arm, then watching you bang the unit around on the wooden work surface trying to get the right angle was making me so mad. Other than that very informative lol.
I'm cringing Jimmy boy you should know this never rest the turntable on its arm any signs of putting any pressure weight on it is a big no! no! You might be able to shrink the belt back to original put it in the microwave, put it in a big measuring jug of boiled water put the microwave on for 15 minutes full power should bring it back to its original shape only time it doesn't work so well is with pure rubber I think that's a neoprene rubber.
They should have gone with a Direct Drive like in the REVOX B790 turntable and used the same Tone-arm setup as the REVOX B790 might make things more complicated but you would get better sound no wow and flutter or skating problems just nice pure sound.
All that you are doing wrong could fill another three videos. First off, you start out looking like you don’t even know how to start the unit. Then you have removed the dust cover and turn the unit over, putting the entire weight on the spindle, not to mention weight on the tone arm. Anyone would know better, and have left the dust cover in place, using a towel or other soft cloth, rest the unit upside down on the dust cover. You take the potentiometers out and spray with WD40 which can damage electrical contacts because it’s petroleum based. You install a new belt touching it with your hands, which will contaminate the material with skin oils. You mention the fluctuation in the strobe is the turntable “checking it’s speed”.. the SL220 has no such capability, it’s simply a strobe for the user to adjust pitch. If it fluctuates, there is still a problem either with the potentiometers, the belt, the motor or the control board. You might know something about vintage equipment, but not this one.
The audio technica P mount cartridge that was on that Technics SL- 220 turntable only required 1.25 gram, at 1.5 grams it will bottom out in time. Also for the age of the unit you'd think you would have cleaned out the pots for 33 and 45 and recalibrated them, instead you used to used belt to fix your problem. And do you really think the spring that it's controlling the anti-stating is really accurate for it's age. Shockingly you use WD-40 for electronics really??
That's where you are dead wrong. Technics' cheapest tables were straight tone arm, P-mount tables sold in the 80s. This SL-230 is cousins with the mighty SL-23.
@@zapwatt Let me make this easy for you if you have never owned and worked with a technics SL-1200 mk II then you are the one that is dead wrong.First off it is a direct drive table with 1|8 rotation to full speed .you can switch from 33 to 45 and back down in an instant It never looses its speed ever .The pitch control is amazingly precise.The tone arm is completely adjustable for record tracking and height. Wow & Flutter0.01 % (WRMS) The 1200MK2's ultra-low-speed motor and high torque (1.5kg / cm) allow for super quick start-ups (0.7 sec) and stops. Allows for accurate quartz-locked pitch List price $835.00 .So the question here is how do you compare a belt drive table with 0.05% (WRMS) The pitch controls x2 after a year usually fail as well as the speed selector. Pitch control: 6% and sold new for under $ 300.00.So its like comparing and ox cart to ta Ferrari sl-1200mkII being the Ferrari.There is a reason those tables command such high prices today and thats because they are durable,accurate, and have a very long life with little to no repairs .I had mine from 1980-2010 paid dealers cost $550.00 and sold it for $1100.00 and never had even the smallest problem ever. Every other Pioneer and Technics tables I ever had went to the land fill rotation
@@atyourserviceable You completely missed the point. Compare the SL-230 to an SL-B200 and tell me that the B200 isn't a far inferior machine. You just missed the point completely. The SL-230 has a curved tone arm with removable headshell/standard mount cartridge and dual pitch control. It is obviously a better machine than the entry level tables that had non adjustable straight tone-arms with P-mount cartridges and single pitch control and non-isolated feet. Pay attention and stop changing the subject. Also, take some time to proofread what you wrote because it is riddled with syntax errors.
