Thanks Nick, I took my 1410 apart to find someone had already repaired the tonearm lifter, in this way they had drilled small holes for the cable to pass through, but I think your method is lijely to be stronger. However I also ordered a 3D printed replacement mentioned below.
Thank you so much for this video. I have an SL-1310 MK2 and I suspect it has this exact issue. I will be doing the same with the wire winding if required. I'm going to try to tackle this next week and your video will help a lot.
Thank you Sr. I have a collection of the MKII(from 1200 to 1800), this video is a great help. SL1500 MKII limited edition, my favorite turntable, mixing 12" records with 4 of those 1500 it a dream and pure Art.
Why does nobody show how the cue goes back together? I have one that has a replaced part and cue won't work because I can't figure out how the lever is supposed to push on the gear!!
Hi thanks for your video I’ve managed to fix that broken part but I’m having problems with the damping. Where did you get that supper heavy grease. Regards Paul
Hi, thanks for the video. Small question please, I`m looking for help. By my 1410MKII, the on/off button no longer comes up and stays down. Is this a known problem? Can it be repaired? Thanks
Hello Nick, thank you. This video made a lot of things clear. Is it perhaps possible to model the broken part from the armlifter, and simply printing it with a resin 3d printer?
Hi Nick, thank you for the video. I just got one from my uncle but it has some problems. The big one is that the cables are damaged, it works only on the left channel and there is a massive "earth rumble" ( I don't know how to say in English). Do you have any advice to fix it? Thank you in advance. ✌🏼
Nice video. Good to see others hit on the same fix! There's a guy on eBay getting $300 dollars for fixing that lifter part. Not sure if he's doing this fix or is using a 3D printed piece
The Nagaoka MP-110 cartrridge you have is the one I am considering, to replace the stock model on mine. I cannot afford the MP-500 but perhaps that is overkill, not sure.
Hi The diamond fell off my Nagaoka, so can't say what it sounds like. The Goldring 1006 (and a 1010) I find too bright for me. I have a Stentorian 737E which I like a lot, but not sure if they make them any more. I got mine 2nd hand.
Whoops Meant Stanton Also I have the Audio Technica AT-OC3 Moving Coil. The moving coil are the best, but you probably need a high gain MC preamp for them, and they cost more.
The Nagaoka are typically deeper, darker and richer sounding from what I have heard from audio demos online and other recordings. They are often viewed as being a couple of steps above a similar priced Audio Technica, although I have never heard their moving coil models. I only have two devices, one an ART USB Phono Plus preamp that works standalone or in computer mode, and that gives +45dB gain if I am reading the specs correctly. The other is a Soundcraft Spirit Folio Notepad sub mixer. I'm currently using the ART device as it is small, has a turntable grounding post, low cut rumble filter and connects with just about anything and sounds very clean and quiet, without being cold or sterile.
I’m getting ready to service my SL-1900 because the dampening fluid has leaked out of the cue mechanism. When the arm drops it’s too quick, the needle after landing hops one time. I thought about using grease like on this tutorial but I see it still drops quickly. I found on eBay it’s 2ml of silicone dampen fluid sold in a syringe with 18g needle but it’s many different weights 200k, 300k, 500k cst. Can anyone suggest what cSt viscosity to purchase for the Technics SL1900?
I had to take out all of the black screws as well because the deck assembly was firmly affixed when I took out only the red screws and the four outer screws that hold the pieces together.
@@nickadams5411 Turns out the owner had left in the three 1/4-20 screws (shipping lock). I took those out and was able to get the assembly out. Where I ran into trouble is the Shapeways 3D printed part is to large for the brass knurled part. There's a 1mm gap and it won't grip.
@@nickadams5411 "Salvage" would be the operative word here. I'm thinking along the lines of using 2 part epoxy to fill the gap and bond it together. Aligning it precisely and having it stay put until hardened is the challenge.
Hi Nick! Very helpful video thanks a lot I would like to know how did you remove the upper part of the armlift mechanism the one that is visible on the outside when the turntable isn't dismounted?
Nevermind I found out I just had to pull a little bit harder anyway thanks again for your video I wouldn't have been able to do this without your video
Back in 2013 I stupidly encouraged my mum to throw out her old Technics SL-D303 (released in 1981 and based on the SL-1200 I believe), and yet fast forward to June 2016 and I bought the same model back from a German Ebay seller. Why? Because I upgraded my studio setup so that my audio DAC could play SACD, DSD and other high end audio formats. What this did was make me realise how awful most CDs and SACDs sound! At the same time I began listening to digitised vinyl records, and the difference in realism and overall satisfaction was HUGE. So I am now busy buying records and washing them, and most importantly enjoying music again for the first time in years. I remember thinking CD sounded hard, flat and sometimes harsh back in the 1980s as a teenager, but the latest is the greatest right? I might invest in new cartridge and stylus to replace the stock model, but I am in no hurry.
Hi Also, the original records from the 50', 60's and 70's (and possibly some in the 80's) were cut dirctly from analogue master tapes. so there was no digital destruction of the sound. A lot of remastered LPs have been digitally scanned, manipulated and then turned back into vinyl, which completely changes the dynamics. Try and get the original records, pressed from the analogue tapes. The Beatles remasters were cut from the analogue tapes which is superb. However I don't know how many other remasters of old records go back to the tapes and stay in the analogue domain. Keep rocking Nick
Nick Adams I'm avoiding those recently reissued vinyl records for the same reason, e.g. they cynically put the CD masters onto vinyl. I'm therefore only buying records that were manufactured in the earlier decades as you mention. I'm also a musician like you by the way, so I have an appreciation of how sound works from a guitarist, keyboards and studio recording viewpoint. Thanks Nick and keep rocking too!
EgoShredder it's great to know you have realised the huge potential of the format. CDs are a complete failure in my opinion too, although they don't represent the huge potential of the digital domain either. I think the answer lies in the recorded wavelength and the way this is calculated and with vinyl you just get more bang for your buck.
Hi Nick very interesting. I got the the same turntable and I ve lost the balance weight. I ve search it and I only find the SL1200 model do you know if it s compatible? thanks
Hi Carl They are very robust and should be in working condition, unless cartridge is damaged, and the lifter not broken, like this one. Check it out to see if it works. I can service, if you van get it to me, here in Hampshire, UK. Let me know: nick@demonproducts.co.uk nick
Hi Carl If you can live without the lifter, and just move it by hand, then can you live with it? It is not auto lift at the end of the record, so have to manually switch it off anyway. Does it play records ok? nick
Hi Nick! Just a quick question on on my turntable if you could answer it for me it would be A1! I get feed back in the speakers when the turntable is on anytime I lift up the tone arm of my turntable, any odea what is wrong? cheers!
hi I had this problem with another expensive turntable arm. I had to tie a piece of rubber to the arm to increase it's mass. If you do this then remember to rebalance the arm and playing weight. There are other solutions regarding where the turntable is positioned in the room.
