You have a great passion for this stuff. I've been watching your videos. Always hands on and thinking of the workings and how to improve. I like it. It's a good hobby/intrest. A great mind never stops. I have an interest in these things also. Because of my interest, I work at a stihl dealer here in Australia. Grinding many chains per week on an oregon grinder. I usually grind all the right cutters first, then the left. When swapping from right to left i make small adjustments on the back stop and position of the clamp offset to grinding wheel. I never grind from one side to another without small adjustments. Keep in mind our shop grinder has multiple staff using it and possible hundreds of chains per week. Many different diameter wheels. 👍love the videos.
I have the Stihl USG and it works well did you know the top plate angle is out 2.7° on that grinder. Set it at 0° you will see the motor not level I live in Bendigo Victoria What Oregon grinder do you use. I like the 511AX. I am not a fan of the hydraulic assist because they can leak. Another problem. You should be a expert at grinding now. What's your thoughts on the backstop being curved ?
We have the hydraulic assist, not sure the model number, it's fairly old. The back stop being curved doesn't bother me to much, I just adjust it to keep centre of the tooth. After finishing the right side cutters I swap to left and adjust the stop back out for a long tooth and then slowly bring it in and visually confirm I have both left and right very close to same length. No verniers, just visually. But yeah I constantly minor adjust the screws during a chain. But saying that I do sharpen a chain fairly fast, becomes second nature. Our backstop is fairly ugly, the small 1/4 chains the wheel runs very close to the stop. Some careless people I work with get lazy to adjust and let the wheel grind into it at times.
@sdc0386 grinding new chains is never a problem only when they get half worn you need to watch the backstop. At end of life my cutters resemble 🔺️ so the backstop Co.e I to play and is critical at the point. I did make a pointed backstop that sits between the tie straps. See my channel for that one
@@ChainsawUsers I had trouble with poor tolerances with the Oregon grinders and the cam not holding the chain vice properly. Now I use and recommend the Maxx Pro which has auto clamping similar to the 620 but is a mechanical, not hydraulic system. Consistent clamping across the width of the vice and no problem with leaks!
The are great grinder you will be happy with it. Only thing I can say easy to blue the cutters if you take to much off or go to fast. Just on and off slowly and you will be good
I just got one of these Tecomec jolly evo grinders, main reason I got it and not a Stihl USG or Oregon 520 or anything was the fact that the Jolly Evo is the recommended grinder to use with the Square-jig.. I'm wanting to be able to sharpen square tooth as well as round ground and the Stihl isn't compatible. And I wasn't interested in buying a $1600 Simington as well as a dedicated round-ground grinder. I just put it together and am waiting on the stand to mount it on and this video is helpful to learn as much as possible before using it. Been using a cheap Harbor Freight Chicago Electric plastic grinder which is a HORRIBLE instrument for the purpose of tooth sharpening and it was time to upgrade
You need to dress the grinding wheel on the Square Jig a lot with aluminium oxide grinding wheel. Brown resin impregnated ones hold the edge better but they are harder to find
@@ChainsawUsers yeah they're $140 and they are waiting to get them back in stock, I spoke to the company and they said "soon" they'll have them. They're pre-shaped for use with the 40 and 45° holders, I think they'll make the jig much more user-friendly.
