The quality of the content in this channel is superb. And thanks for defining that "power" in relation to low tension doesn't refer to speed/velocity. Nice to see someone explain that it actually refers to depth.
One thing left out is the differences regarding reference tension between crank/lockout machines and electric constant pull. All the pros use electric constant pull. So if you see your favorite pro's preferred tension and then bring your racquet to a shop with a crank it will not be the same as the pro's. Also pros have the outside mains and top and bottom crosses pulled higher to account for the tension loss tying knots. This will result in even a higher dynamic tension. You could do this on a crank but it would be easy to forget to change the setting back during a busy day. So you should always know what machine is being used - crank/ lockout or electric constant pull. I have a crank, a constant pull electric, and a Wise tension head that I can attach to the crank. When I set constant pull off on the WISE (to make it like a crank) I notice that the tension loss is immediate. As I pull the tension at say 55 it locks out and stops pulling but it keeps displaying the actual tension of the string and it is usually around 50 within a second.
Love how you keep it simple and just bring the knowledge objectively, letting the viewer decide based on the facts. Keep the videos coming. Even though I know the info I still enjoy the videos. Thats all you
I string Kev/4g at 86lbs. I prestretch pulling on one end of the string till it elongates. The around the poll method pulling on both ends just removes coil memory and will not elongate the string Racquets are way tougher than the recommended tension range and yeah you probably void the warranty, but I have never had any frame breakage and have been stringing at 86lbs for almost a decade. Good vid
great channel i just subscribed, i bought an Ezone 100 (which is power frame as you know) , i will use babolat natural gut strings 16G - which tension would you use on it ? my considerations are : its a power frame, id like also some control, once in while i get arm issue... if i were to install solinco confidential i was going for 48 pounds but then i thought "arms arms arms" and now i am thinking of natural gut ....
Very unscientific with no slightly scientific evidence, waste time to listen. For example, low tension high power or high trajectory, where did you get that scientifically? Mannarino plays 20# do you see him lose control?
How do I make my tennis racquet play like my rubber ping pong paddle? I’m a very good ping pong player with a rubber paddle but I kinda struggle with a plastic paddle because it has less spin. I also kind of struggle in tennis because my racquet feels off like trying to play ping pong with a hard plastic paddle. I rented a racquet at a local country club once and it had the feel similar to my ping pong paddle so tennis was much easier. I still mishit shots but when I did I knew where the shot was going unlike my actual tennis racquet. I’m guessing I need to add more tension to get more control? Originally I thought a rubber paddle is softer than plastic so I would prefer soft tennis tension but apparently it works opposite in Tennis tension vs ping pong paddle firmness.
I did 45lbs and man i just touch the ball and it flies, he's right plz donot think your shot speed will pop up (ps: I was that guy😞) get what you are used to or maybe just 5lbs up down (if you want to try new)
I'm so glad I found your channel because you post such informational videos! My strings just recently broke after taking a year break from tennis and I have completely forgotten what strings and tension I had them at! Watching your vids has helped me choose my new string setup
I am a learner aged 60 yrs using Wilson Clash 100 L with hybrid getting tension mains 51 and cross 53 is it okay if not please give suitable suggestion.
Hi: can you explain why fresh strung string at 55lb alu 16 or 60lb xcel do not snap back fresh off string bed? The xcel don’t even snap back to its position in less than 10 mins of play. Tried two pro shop they all act the same.
Hi there! Your racquet strung with Luxilon ALU Power is likely exhibiting the snap-back effect common with polyester tennis strings, but keep in mind that it's a subtle movement that can't be seen by the naked eye. Furthermore, while polys have a more pronounced ability to snap back, they can still move out of place, becoming more prevalent as the strings get older. The extent to which polys will move out of place can also vary based on the type of racquet and string pattern. On the other hand, Babolat Xcel is a multifilament tennis string. As a result, it won't exhibit significant snap-back, and as a result, the strings will move out of place even more.
i dont now if the question is stupid but i ask.if i sting a raqet at 26 kg and after some time losses 3 kg of tension lets say after 10 days ,so the tension drop 3 kg an it is now 23kg.it will have the same behavior as if i was string it at 23 kg?
Hi there - great question! The quick answer is no, but here's why. When we string a tennis racquet and set the tension for the machine to pull, we're stringing at a specific 'reference tension.' However, the 'actual tension' of the strings after pulling the racquet off the machine is usually lower due to factors that can include the friction of the strings against each other, elongation of the strings as tension is applied, and how well the string in use maintains tension. As a result, if we measured the tension of the second racquet strung at 23 kg, its actual tension would be lower and therefore exhibit different behavior than the first racquet mentioned. Furthermore, if you had played with the first racquet during those initial ten days, then you would have broken in the strings and, although likely entirely sufficient to continue hitting with, would no longer have the same resilience as the freshly strung racquet. I hope that helps! PS - No stupid questions here - thanks for asking 😄
Hello there! I have a question about hybrid tensions that I'm still trying to find in the internet: I've read that the variation or difference in hybrid tensions is from 2lbs to 6lbs. But, what happens when we string a racquet above that recomendations? I haven't find the answer yet. Happy New Year!
Hi Brandon! Happy New Year to you too, and great question. Typically, I recommend a variance of 2-3 but no more than 5 pounds for two reasons. First, as the difference in tension increases, I find the stringbed to perform erratically, i.e., it becomes less predictable, which I subsequently perceive as less control. Second, the greater the variance, the more string movement you're going to experience, which causes added friction and can lead to premature breakage of your strings. I touch on this in my guide on the topic of hybrid stringing, which you might find interesting if you want to explore this method further: tenniscompanion.org/hybrid-tennis-strings/ I've experimented up to a 10-pound variance - it didn't go so well 😄
Thank you! The stringer is an older 6 pt spring tension model from Gamma with a floor stand. If you were to head to their website, the closest thing you'd find is the Gamma 5003 6 Pt.
Which string you are using here. As I too have babolat pure strike 100 racquet and Rmp blast string. But I don't feel comfortable with string. Kindly recommend good string for Babolat pure strike 100 / 300gms for women
Thanks, Peppino! The stringing machine I have is an older 6 pt spring tension model from Gamma with a floor stand. If you were to head to their website, the closest thing you'd find is the Gamma 5003 6 Pt.
Hi i'm a ITF junior player and was looking to find the best string and string tension to use? How can I find it and would you recommend me? I am 16 yrs old and use the Yonex Vcore 100 300g
Hi Ricardo - thanks for the note! Although strings and tension are very much a personal preference, I'm happy to help share some thoughts that might help guide your selection. As a primer, if you haven't already, I'd encourage you to check out a few of my other videos, which you might find useful: Types of Strings: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OflCsTM6y8w.html String Gauges: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OolgTCYQH1s.html Restringing: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZYGoKSgCRIc.html Each type of string has its pros and cons, which are useful to consider along with your preferences and style of play, while a string's gauge influences durability, spin, and feel. Of course, restringing is necessary to maintain performance. Competitive players in your age range often gravitate toward polyester tennis strings, which are low powered, durable, and help deliver excellent topspin. However, they do come with downsides, which are primarily lower comfort and poor tension maintenance. Here are a few of my favorite polyester tennis strings. Tried and True Options - Luxilon ALU Power - Solinco Hyper-G - Volkl Cyclone - Babolat RPM Blast - Head Sonic Pro Edge - Yonex Poly Tour Pro My Favorite Newer Polys - Solinco Confidential - Tecnifibre Ice Code - Head Lynx Tour All of these are excellent, but they have their nuances, i.e., more or less power, spin, comfort, etc. Hybrid stringing is also a popular option, where two different strings are combined, such as polyester and multifilament. For example, players who seek topspin, but want a bit of extra pop and comfort might use this kind of setup, which can work extremely well. If you're looking for a bit more of a step-by-step to nail down the right string, check out my guide on doing that here: tenniscompanion.org/how-to-choose-tennis-strings/ With all that said, I'm an advocate of experimenting with different strings and tensions to find the right fit. It's fun to do and a surefire way to find the best possible strings for you and your game.
That is not really true, with lower tensión you get more power or speed on tha ball but you do not loose control because control is given by the spin on the ball and the proper tennis technique.
very informative lesson. I have one question: is there any difference in fact between the newly strung tension and loosing tension? Say I string 44 pounds in racquet A, and string 50 pounds originally in racquet B then it falls down to 44 pounds as a result of days of use. Is there any difference between these two 44 pounds racquets now in real life? Thx.
Thank you, and an interesting question! Yes, there would be a difference in this scenario. When you have racquet A strung at 44 and B at 50, these tensions are referred to as a 'reference tension,' or more specifically, the tension a stringer sets on their machine. However, due to factors like friction, elongation, tie-offs, and a string's ability to maintain tension, the 'actual tension' immediately after stringing will differ from the requested 'reference tension.' Therefore, if racquet B's actual tension dropped to 44 after a day of use, it would be different from racquet A strung at 44. That's because the actual tension after stringing A would have been different immediately after stringing while also having experienced a subsequent drop over the next day - even if you hadn't hit with it. Hopefully, that helps and is not too tricky to follow. 😄
TennisCompanion a little complicated indeed. I understand that the tension is in dynamic change and will drop with or without use especially in the first 24 hrs. So it will be hard to have same tension at one time. I am just imagine a hypothetical scenario that we string A 50 pounds and then wait for it to fall down to 44 pounds. And once we meter 44 pounds in A then we string B 44 pounds in no time. What I am guessing is mainly: 1. If not that sensitive to tension (amateur as me) maybe stringing higher is a good strategy; 2. Play as early as you can or string as late as you can so that to enjoy the short fresh feeling.
Forgive me if this was mentioned in the video. Looks like you have a lockout machine. Do you add tension to make up for the tension loss when stringing on this type of machine, as it does not constant pull?
Hello, very informative video but here is my question in something you didnt touch: are there any beneficts in changing slightly the tension of the vertical and horizontal strings? I've red that many pros do this, and some websites allow you to set different vertical and horizontal tensions when ordering a racquet, thanks!
Thank you so much for your explanation of power as it pertains to string tension. Best explanation I've heard so far, and it really helped me wrap my head around the concept. Too many of my shots hit the top of the net and need just one more inch to clear it. I will try to go down a few pounds in tension and see what that does!
Thanks, Jack! The groves or notches you refer to are a natural part of wear for tennis strings. They result from friction between vertical mains and horizontal crosses, which occurs when hitting. Usually, once the notches begin to form, the strings like to find their way back into them, even if you temporarily pull them out or realign them because they're always moving when hitting. Some players are bothered by how their strings stay out of alignment once the grooves begin to form. One way to address this the next time you string your racquet is to make sure the strings are as straight as possible after stringing. Then, regularly straighten them once you begin to hit, so that when the grooves begin to form, the strings are straight. Hopefully, that helps!
Unfortunately, yes - it can happen that fast. The type of strings, tension, racquet, grip, and how hard a player swings can influence the speed they form. Even with durable strings, they always form within the first hit after I string.
Bravo, great content. I have one question, when using the Tourna String meter, you said to resting when tension drops 10 to 15 pounds. Didn't you mean to say, "10 to 15 %". Just curious, are you familiar with Ashaway MonoGut ZX or ZX Pro, a zyex (polyether ether ketone ) string.?
Great string! I would be careful myself using the string meter on that string. It can stretch lengthwise a ton but it can break if its bent too much. Super interesting string. Its a fantastic cross if you prestretch it till it elongates a few inches.
Thank you! More often than not, players will string the main and the cross string the same tension, so if you're taking that approach, it's entirely sufficient to do so. With that said, there are cases where players will vary the tension of the mains and crosses. One more common example is hybrid stringing, where two different types of strings.
Isn't stringing the mains and the crosses at different tensions going to allow the strings (mains) to move more and ran the ball to impart more spin? Have you experienced this? How so? Hybrid? Same? Types?
Well, that's true in the sense that all strings continuously lose tension from the moment the racquet comes off the machine, but non-poly strings while losing tension will at least maintain some elasticity right up to the point they break or are cut out. Poly string, on the other hand, loses both its "pulled tension" AND its elasticity even faster and this continues right up until they have no more elasticity left to lose, thus making the string totally unplayable, no matter how good it still looks. This can happen in as little as 8-10 hours of play, depending on the poly string brand and its chemical makeup, although some polys can give one up to 20 or so hours of play. This can be easily monitored by "stick" marking hours of play on a piece of tape under the overgrip finisher. One can see just how dead a poly string is when cutting it out and there's barely a 1/4" gap between the strings at the cut. I'll occasionally photo this for a client and it surprises them to see their poly string was that dead, but it also explains why they'll say that it felt like they were hitting the ball with a piece of wood.
Hi, Great Video! I have a question. I also have a Babolat Pure Drive and stringed it with the same grey strings you used in the video. Even that the strings dont move, i have the feeling that it feels dampened. Could it be possible that the stringer did something wrong? Because if i can remember right, newly strung rackets have a really high pitch sound when you hit them with your palm
Hi there, and thank you! Luxilon ALU Power, which I used in this video, is a stiff and lower-powered polyester tennis string, so depending on what strings you've used in the past, they may feel somewhat dampened in comparison. With that in mind, yes, a freshly strung racquet will usually have a higher-pitched ping when hitting them with your palm after a fresh string job. Over time, as the strings age and become dead, the sound they make will become duller and muted. Various factors can influence the ping sound you're referencing from the racquet to the type of strings, gauge or thickness, and tension. In particular, the lower the tension, the more muted the ping sound. Is it the first time you've used this string? Do you know what tension was used to string the racquet this time vs. previous string jobs? There's a decent chance the answers to those questions would explain the differences you're feeling and hearing with the strings.
@@TennisCompanion Thanks for the fast respond! I used a Head Sonic Pro 1.30 before now I think its a Head Lynx I use now. The Sonic Pro i had with a 25/24 and now I have a stiffer one I think 26/25. Also before its was string with 3 knots and now with 2 knots. Actually my racket is newly strung, thats why I was wondering why it doesn't sound correct. Also when I hit the ball I have a feeling of that the ball is moving my strings and then they are jumping back. The tension should be fine though because the strings after playing look okay. Thank you for your help!
You're welcome 😄 Much of what you're describing, such as the string movement, is fairly normal behavior for a polyester tennis string like Head Lynx. If they're playing well, then the strings are probably fine - you're likely noticing some nuances between the two strings. As for the knots, tennis racquets are strung with one string (2 knots) or two strings (4 knots). Sometimes a knot will recede into a grommet and hide, so if you were seeing three knots, it's likely there was a fourth, but it's tough to say for sure without having inspected the frame. Next time you string your racquet, I'd encourage you to share some of your thoughts with your stringer to help dial in your preferences.
So would you string poly to an initial tension (knowing it will drop) or aim for the final tension (estimating what that will be using Tennis Warehouse tension loss data)? And what about hybrids where the poly and multi/gut lose tension very differently? I find this stuff baffling, honestly.
Impossible to know where the tension will end up. Your swing speed, spin rate, accuracy of strike, ambient temperature, humidity and frequency of play will affect it. If you are a casual player, cut the strings out when you feel like the racquet is not performing well. It's not much more complicated than that unless you are trying to play competitive tennis for money or scholarship.
Your video and content quality is amazing. However, you are not giving a speech to the United Nations, you might want to relax a bit and make your presentation more casual and conversational. Just my opinion.
Ahh, gotcha - my mistake. The stringer is an older 6 pt spring tension model from Gamma with a floor stand. If you were to head to their website, the closest thing you'd find is the Gamma 5003 6 Pt.
Hey, great video, thanks! I have one additional question: What does different tensions on the mains and crosses do? For example 23/22 kg instead of 23/23 or 23/24?
Thanks, Michael - great to hear it was useful! It's relatively common for players to vary tension for hybrid string setups, where you lower the tension of the cross strings by a few pounds to help increase string movement and influence topspin. You can read some of my more complete thoughts on the topic here: tenniscompanion.org/hybrid-tennis-strings/#hybrid-stringing-and-tension Beyond that, some players vary tension for the mains and crosses, even if they're using a single string. One line of thinking for doing so is to equalize the final or actual tension of their mains and crosses, believing that it results in a superior string job and better feel. A stringer sets their machine to a specific 'reference tension' when stringing. However, the final tension of the mains and crosses ends up being different due to friction, elongation of strings during installation, length of crosses vs. mains, etc. I've experimented and have found value when I vary the tension with a hybrid string setup, with a noticeable impact on spin. However, I have found little value or positive impact to performance in doing so with a single string. The challenge is that it's entirely subjective, so players need to experiment themselves to see if they prefer the feel/performance. It's certainly easy enough to ask a stringer to vary the tension to try it. I hope that helps!
Thank you! The Tourna String Meter is an adequate device for measuring tension loss. However, I wouldn't use it for checking the accuracy of your stringers work - here's why. The tension you ask your stringer to use when installing strings is the 'reference tension.' It's the tension they'll set the machine for pulling each string, expressed in pounds or kilograms. However, the stringbed's final or 'actual tension' will rarely match the tension you asked your stringer to use. That's because various factors influence the actual tension, including the friction of strings against each other, elongation or stretching of strings during installation, and the strings' ability to maintain tension. Other factors can include the type of machine, design of the racquet, and the stringers technique. Finally, the amount of time that passes after stringing the racquet can also influence the actual tension as strings start to lose tension immediately after stringing. With that said, the Tourna String Meter can help players track tension loss by measuring tension after stringing and then taking subsequent measurements and comparing them. Tourna recommends taking multiple measurements each time within the sweet spot and averaging them, which a player can use as a basis for future comparison. It's far from perfect, but can be useful for players willing to go through the effort.
