This is excellent. Much simpler than the idea I had, which was to tie a thread to the hook, run the thread through a section of coffee straw glued to the loco, coach, or wagon, and then glue a small piece of metal for the magnets to draw down to the other end of the thread.
What you probably require are Bachmann 36-025 10 x Mk2 Couplings mini type - short. These fit under the buffer beam. You may need to add a spacer from a piece of plastic to get the coupling to the correct height. If there isn't a hole for a screw then drill one into the wagon just smaller than the screw thread so you dont need a nut. Small screws can be difficult to find.
These are not NEM because as far as I know that refers to a standard for the pocket that different coupling types such as tension lock or Kadee will fit into. For bogie mounted couplings on carriages you will need the long type 36-026. Hattons and many shops will stock them or look online - about £4 a pack. I hope that helps.
No I was wondering where to get the coupplings from because are they the ones that go into the really old carriages and wagons what I am doing is trying to get every coupling to the small NEM sized but a lot of my stuff is old , can you buy them as they are at the start of the video or do you have to build them
To do magnetic uncoupling you will need Bachmann couplings. If you haven't got an NEM pocket get the screw on type of coupling and some packing pieces or else glue on an NEM pocket.
Hi, there are various solutions. Shows, shops, online. If you have NEM pockets on your old stock then try your local model shop or order online from 2K technologies. I mainly use 'small, short' couplings. You may need cranked couplings to get to the correct height. Best take your model to a shop or even to a train show such as the one at York racecourse this weekend. Suppliers are often out of stock of the particular variant your require - Murphy's Law.
I am gripped byvthe "Kirby coupler" idea and watching these videos with some interest John! When you have filed the coupling, presumably through "chemically blackened" brass, is it possible to solder the staple to the coupling? Best wishes. Bob
Yes it is possible to solder. I'm not sure about the bond which should be 'really solid' but which sometimes fails. Is it the steel of the staples (are they galvanised?)? I did the filing to enable me to solder but then found it provided a location key. The solder will flow and the joint looks OK but a drop of superglue and a good mechanical crimp works.
John Mellor Thanks John. Actually, I have read somewhere (probably on the bottle) that when "Chemical Blackening" has been carried out, it is not possible to solder to the piece which has been treated. Maybe this is the reason for a poor bond? Never the less, a great idea and one which will need a lot of thought and daily patience! Will get cracking as soon as! Best wishes and Seasons Greetings. Bob
RMLectronics East Yorks Thanks, useful info. If you file the dropper you are soon through to clean metal. I would assume that the blackening is a chemical action on the surface and it certainly does prevent soldering if not cleaned off. I have had 'wetting' of the metal when i take care, but the galvanised steel of the staples isn't good either! I'll stick to a drop of CA glue. Have a great Christmas.
No, the loop on the magnetising dropper is not essential. It increases the surface area of the steel being attracted. Use a used staple as it is and you will have some success. positioning over the uncoupling magnet is the most important part.
