Worked a charm for my 2011 Mule. I had almost given up - replaced filters, strainers and fuel lines to no avail. Then this video comes along! Thank you so much!
Thank you for the video, I have gone through this machine top to bottom trying to fix it. Ten minutes after watching your video she runs like a champ!!
Thank you! I was having a lot of hesitation with partial throttle. I changed the fuel filter and it only got worse. only after finding your video and poking holes in the screen , my problem went away. thank you so much!!
This works! Can't yet speak as to the longevity of the fix, but for now, my 2013 mule 4010, which runs on the same fuel sending unit, is back to full power. I've tried all the recommended fixes on the mule forums, replaced many parts and your quick fix has been the only one that worked. I was getting ready to convert it to a carbureted system until I stumbled on your vid. Thanks.
What a trick. Thanks guys. Pulled the little screen out middle section next to to the pressure valve ,washed it out and VAROOM RUNS LIKE BRAND NEW. THANKS AGAIN .
Thanks for the video! I tried this on my 2017 Kawasaki fxt pro mule, 7,800 miles 800+ hours because of the lack of power after half throttle. I had changed the fuel filter which didn't help much so I pulled the pump back out and did the screen clean. I sprayed carb cleaner rather than use the nail in order to keep the screen in place and blew compressed air through it a few times in both directions. I put it back together and it worked like new. Thanks again to everyone for their comments and especially the video.
thanks ive chased a fuel problem changed from inside the tank right thru to throttle body even changed electrics no fix then i saw your video tried and bingo all fixed thanks again jeff
This fix is 100%.did this after putting new fuel strainer on with no difference saved me a pile of money. Used a plastic wire tie instead of nail. Thank you muchly
I have a Teryx 800 I had the same problem that many people are having with hard hard to start.. After finally getting it started- if you pushed the accelerator/gas pedal even just a little the engine would die. In reading the many posts and trying different solutions, I ended up draining the fuel tank and adding 1 gallon of 100% gasoline and half a can of STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner back into the tank. I continued to attempt to start the engine. I had determined that if I turned ignition switch on 3 or 4 times to power the fuel pump it would start and try to run for a few seconds. I continued this strategy many many times, fuel pump on 3 to 4 times and starting until it died. Eventually the engine begin running 10 to 15 seconds at a time. My strategy was to get all the old fuel out of the fuel line and into the engine. The following day I turned the switch on and the engine was hesitate at first , on the third try the engine started perfect and I drove for thirty minutes with no problems. I think the fuel injection cleaner staying in the fuel pump and lines over night dissolved and cleared the fuel lines. Hope this helps someone
Hello, I want to tell you THANK YOU it was that little screen, that you used a nail on. It runs like NEW I have a 2008 Brute Force 750, with same fuel pump Teryx until I saw your video, I was going crazy trying to figure it out, thank you so much!!
Thank you for this video pertaining to this information because I just purchased a pre-owned 2010 Teryx FI LE 2 days ago & was unaware of this issue even though I Googled 2010 Teryx recalls/issues-nothing came up on the fuel pump of course until after I made the purchase. Thank goodness this is an easy solution to an aggravating problem so I will not back out of the sale & still have the unit shipped out & as soon as I get my machine I will do this mod, again thank you!
My guess is there is a certain amount of derating upon the pump getting hot. Which when it has no restrictions it will maintain barely ample pressure. However, with the screen in tact and gunked up it likely pushes the pump too hard and leads to even higher temps forcing the pump to fault even more ending up without the required pressure to supply fuel injection. Basically like you said its pulling more amps the harder it works leading to more heat more fail. Could also be a combination of starving the fuel injection system for power. Idk Thanks for the video I'm going to do one of these now so I appreciate your insight on this. I'll post again if I find anything new.
Just did this with my 2010teryx750,it worked!!!!! Also had a bad coil, changed coil first, was better, but not fixed, did the fuel pump screen job, I little scary, didn't want to break the plastic, but it did the trick, thanks so much!!!!
Many teryx owners replaced fuel pumps unnecessarily including me! I then did this trick and she has been running great since then 4 years ago, Kawasaki should have came out with some type of bulletin advising customers of this fix.
My 2014 Kawasaki Mule 4010 was doing the same thing it would run fine for about 10-15 mins then it would fall on it face with no power and speed. I would turn the switch off. Let it set for about a min fire it back up run fine for about 20 yards when engine was warmed up and do the same thing. So I had nothing to loss but to get this thing running. Try like the video showed and when I did and it runs fine now. Try this before anyone replaces the fuel pump for no reasons. Thanks to the video saved me a lot of money and time Thanks again
Thanks for the video this solved my problem with my kawasaki 750 bruteforce 2008 to. it´s wery strage that the problem starts when it is warmed up. i still dont understand but this fix works.
It is a little screen that gets rusty and clogs up, section above fuel pump, I broke it up and cleaned the hose and that did the trick. Kawasaki kept telling me I needed new fuel pump Assy , the wAy the dealer was going to fix it was to replace the whole assy including fuel pump, which was not nessesary, They were going to charge $1000. I have fixed 2 other tyrex with this same problem in this manner, and they have been running like champs since then. Thanx
I've had fuel problems on 2016 since it hit 7000km now 11600 km change pump only not the hold unit just about same problem fast idle ,slow idle , and stalling changed fuel filter more time than the oil crazy dirty every time big problem on those bikes finally did the vent mod but will do this fix had soon the snow melts for shore . Thanks for sharing .
Well my filter was dirty ,But I want ahead and did the nail trick anyway that I had it apart .I did not feel anything inside with the nail .chances are it is a fine mat .Happy now it runs again like always .Thanks for the info I am sure it saved me loads of cash .
Stator issues is the problem, damaged stator shagging up output voltage, get worse as it warms up. My 2013 750 had the same problem, stator would be damaged by the Magento, which i think was caused by a bad bearing on the crank
Damn did all theses people have the same problem, I’m joking ..but does this work cause I had a buddy put gas in my ride ,and it went all to hell with cutting out and now it won’t stay running without pressing the gas , and it’s lost power too, can someone plz give me a honest answer
HI. first of all congratulations for your videos, they are really interesting. I am writing to you from Italy, I have a 2009 KVF 750. Stunning car! but lately I replaced the petrol pump, and as soon as I reassembled everything, the FI light is flashing on the instrument panel..I can't solve the problem! would you have any advice for me? thank you and congratulations again.
I had same problem with my 750 bf. after installing a new lower filter I sprayed carb cleaner in screen housing on top of fuel pump then blew a lot of compressed air both ways while holding thum on openings ,screen still in and bike runs perfect.
So I have a question. Is the screen blocking the hole or is it around the inside of that hole? I have a 2014 teryx 800 and it's spitting and spudering but it will sit there and idle.
my 2010 brute force 750 is doing the same thing. i replaced the fuel filter on the bottom "tea bag" and it worked for about 10 mins now its doing the same thing again. Starts right up but once you get above half it starts spitting and souttering. I'm going to try this trick and see if it works.
Is it still running good? We had the same problem on a Polaris and it ended up being a small amount of debris in the fuel tank that when agitated from driving around for a while would get sucked up and stuck on the filter causing a loss of fuel pressure after you turned it off for a half hour or so it would all settle down at the bottom of the tank again and run fine for a while.
I have a theory about the warming up of the machine and the issues starting . The fuel injection is controlled by the computer and when the engine is started cold it increases the duration of the injector opening ( acting like a choke on a carburetor ) and reduces the fuel supplied to a leaner condition (normal amount ) as it warms up . I am assuming that the richer condition would allow more fuel previous to the warm up ?????
I rolled my 750 brute force and now I have throttle issues. Once warm the engine cuts in and out at full throttle. Is this similar to your issue? I’m looking for a fix.
I did what you did on my brute force and now it won't start at all not getting any fuel. My fi light now flashes in the dash when I crank it over. What is this?
I do not know if the brute force uses the same injections system as the teryx, but anyhow the fuel pump on the teryx contains the bottom intake filter, fuel pump, filter in center section that i poked out and pressure relief valve. the fuel coming out of the fuel pump system does not have a return line on the teryx. It is static or goes directly into the injectors at a pressure that the fuel pump develops (43 psi if I remember correctly) and the pressure relief valve is set to. The fuel injector is opened and closed as needed electronically this putting fuel into the engine. You may indeed have a seal on the pump or fuel regulator that is missing or not sealing correctly thus you are losing the required fuel pressure for the injectors. So no start. I would check that the fuel pump and pressure regulator are sealed properly and be sure you have blow out the center section of the plastic fuel pump housing were you removed the screen.
Was your teryx dying at full throttle? Mine will sputter and die at very light throttle to 1/4 throttle if i give it more throttle it will run but it backfires on deceleration
Mine was dying with very little throttle but it was at any attempt to accelerate. It never backfired at decelerate. I sold the machine to my son he ran it a lot and then the fuel pump did go out on it. We had a few of them upon replacement of the fuel pump it is now running fine but the major problem was the internal screen.
I did this and it picks up and goes but eventually goes back to bogging down, I can turn off the machine and start it again and it runs amazing for a few minutes
Ah God I hope this works, I'm about to try it on my 09 zx10r. This thing will not go okay 5k rpm Update: fuck yea it fixed it!!!!! I actually just has to get carb cleaner and clean it out!!! Bad ass man, thank you!!!
Well I been a mechanic a long time and it makes sense if the plastic screen in these warms up it restricts flow. And it can't keep up. My issue is how to filter the fuel before the injectors after this fix or is the intank screen enough. Thoughts anyone I really don't want to cut the injector lines between tge tank and injectors but is tgere any other way to add a filter.
