Today I test the low speed fan resistor on our MINI Cooper S model cars. I am almost sure it's the same on the R50's & non-S model R52's as well. You can do this with a minimum amount of tools.
I just found out about this as I am troubleshooting why my high speed fan is coming on after parking my 05 Cooper S. Thank you for this straightforward vid and as much work as they are I love me some R53!
"Sometimes" when the low speed fan is not working, the High Speed fan will run for a while-after the car is turned off, keys in hand. If the Low speed fan keeps the temps down, it is less likely to happen. Good luck getting it straight.
Thank you, I hope it helps people with these cars because this is a common problem. The dealer will just replace the entire radiator support for around $400+. There is another repair that others have done and I may explain that one later, when I fix one of the other cars.
You are welcome. It is a common failure at the age of these cars. Not too difficult to fix and there are a few different ways people do the repair. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the idea! Here is maybe a safer and simpler idea to test the same concept you had. In the fuse box, there are two relays for the Fan State 1 and Fan State 2. By removing the relay and using the empty relay socket itself to turn on the fan with thick enough wire / piece of metal. This would be much less hasle and safer as you still keep the 50A fuse in line. Also if you have some cable tools available, one can create a cable with same clip size as the replay and simply slot a cable in place of the relay. And there is a safety, that you have to turn your one click to make the fan go (bypassing the main relay), so there is less risk of shorting while moving the live wires. By your method, there is no fuse and when accidentally shorting the battery, there is potential for 250~350A, basically creating a welding machine and the battery will heat up very fast, creating the next risk for fire. So be careful!
I get that and thanks for the information. With my method, you can also test an assembly out of the car, as in a salvage yard. There are risks involved, so test at your own risk. For the low speed, you can also turn on the A/C and that supposed to start the low speed fan as well. Thanks for watching.
28 years ago he served in the army as a radio operator, and if he saw how one of my soldiers connects to a contact with a connector in this way ... Which consumes a fairly large amount of amperes, then he would immediately "punch him in the neck." Especially considering that the car's battery was not disconnected. You are a very risky guy ))))
Thanks for watching and the comment. Yes, sometimes I do things a bit sketchy, so I advise you to only do what YOU are comfortable doing. I show them because we all do things like that, but some just don't show it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
With the A/c, the high speed fan is usually on. The low speed should come on at a lower temperature than 200°F. It may be a temp switch or something with the thermostat, hard to say without more info. Thanks for watching.
Hey Jimmy, I have the (true) 1st Gen. MCS which has a secondary two-pin connection as part of the circuit where the plug pulls apart. Do you know the equivalent test for these earlier models, please? I'm getting nothing when powering either leg on the same plug as shown for both of your cars, powering the two-pin smaller plug (same connection as for PS cooling fan) gives high-speed fan operation. Can't find a schematic for it anywhere!? Many thanks; keep up the entertaining information sir!
Wow, out of the 5 cars we've had, (4 plus the parts car) I've had the same plug i've shown. I haven't seen any other kind. The only thing I can think of in your case is to go directly to the fan, which means removing the radiator. I would also have a resistor ready/on-hand if I were going that far. Hope this helps but please reach out if need more info.
@@Mini-Driver Thanks for getting back to me, I've since learned (by removing the front of the car, of course!) that the earlier two-pin extra plug runs fan high when power applied, and that the relay for switching speed (via the resistor) is mounted on the fan itself, behind the radiator. Ran out of daylight today but pretty sure baked resistor will be the culprit once I've separated the top hose enough to get to remove the fan. Thanks again!
@@user-gb5lo7dn8m Okay, that's what I do when I remove the radiator. I have been replacing the resistors. I got resistors from Amazon for about 15 each. Good luck getting it done.
I work on ours. We have 4, 1st Generation Cooper S models. I try to do everything myself, except specialty things like alignments, A/C work. Thanks for checking out the videos.
The High speed will run a while to bring the temp down even after you shut the car off. That sometimes indicates the low speed not working. I would perform the test, then change it if needed. Thanks for watching, hope it helps.
I am a little uncomfortable connecting to the car battery. Would I be able to connect it to an external 12 V battery (positive and negative leads) instead?
My fan stops working in low and high speeds, i thought that could be some relay but i plugged a new cooling fan (out of the car) and work in both speedsm this meas 100% that the actual cooling fan is broken?
@@diegougarte I would just make sure it is not seized up, and it comes on when it should. Maybe it can be unplugged and have power put to it to ensure it turns.
Don't feel bad, my low speed fan has not been working for years on our original grey Mini. It still isn't working, but I have resistors on hand, ready to be installed. When I have other work to din that area, I will change them out. Just try to avoid long periods of stopped traffic in warmer weather. Thanks for checking out that video.
@@Mini-Driver I mostly drive to work in not alot of traffic in Atlanta. I have never had an overheating issue on the gauge. I am gonna sell the r52 in years. I have taken it to track like this. Should I be worried?
@@andersanden3221 I would say not, but I don't know your cars history. Just be very vigilant about your temps & coolant levels. Ensure your high speed fan comes on at least.
That may mean your fan is burnt and not working at all. For me, I would remove the fan and bench test the motor. If you have access to a salvage yard, try to test one there (use a jump box) to compare. Thanks for watching and hope it helps.
Tried your method and for a quick second the low speed worked, tried the high speed and nothing. went back to low speed and now it won’t kick on- think my fan is shot.
Check your fuses also. If your high & low speed isn't working, it just might be your fan. If you take it out, I would test it a few times out of the car just to be sure. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the reply, shouldn’t my high speed fan work by giving it direct 12v from the battery?- now i know by watching your video that the resistor is definitely shot for the low speed.
Yes, the high should work. If you can find a fan only instead of replacing the whole unit, it would be less expensive. A salvage yard might be your best friend.
Buenas tardes espero este muy bien, te escribo de Monterrey,Mexico, edpero me puedas ayudar y traducir este mensaje, tengo un mini s 2008, ymi carro tiene una faya que no le han podido detectar, al rececorrer unos 10 km ,empieza a enceder el testigo del aceite , ya fambie bomba de aceite, bulbo de aceite ,metales , cadena del tiempo,bomda de agua las 2 junto con la auxiliar, enfriador de aceite, empaques de porta filtro de aceite y la falla sigue, siento que el carro se calienta , si me puedes ayudar muy agradecido, saludos 👍
Inside the oil cooler there is a switch; under the filter. That may be your issue, as they are prone to break. Also if your filter is not inserted completely. Other than that, it would be hard to determine without more information or being there. Hope that helps.