Thank you for your vids- I'm currently building a B5M no prep car and have been following closely. I do have one suggestion; In the original build vids on your car, you changed out the rear lower A-arm mount/inserts so you could get zero rear toe. I have noticed in your testing vids that your car launches straight, but tends to get squirrely on the top end. I'm guessing it's not having any rear toe angle. A notable no prep drag racer has said that rear toe in helps higher speed stability- He suggested about 2 degrees of rear toe in. Pretty easy and simple to try, as you already have the factory parts to change it. Worth a try? Thanks again for your vids and I will keep an eye out for more!
@@FullThrottleRC Also Associated made a set of the mounts with different holes to change the rear toe, and also anti-squat to alternate settings. The part number is ASC91532. They are all over Amazon and Ebay for about $5-$7 a set- I just ordered a set myself just now on Amazon! Thanks for your reply!
Love the video on this one, I also wanted to comment that it was the low voltage cutoff and not the over-current warning you heard. I have the same esc with the 7700kv setup so it's around a 4.0 motor and after 20 rips on it I get the same warning. Need a good battery with over 110c.
Thank you! I was able to see the information in the data logs where it said the low voltage cutoff was coming in later on. Don't have to worry about that anymore though 😁
Your mid et’s are great (66’) you’re on track to run mid to low 2’s in the 132’ comparing to the time slips I have that’s extremely competitive, what ESC are you running again?
Is that a scale 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile . Really love your vids , only come across u today and I got a 1/6 Ford F-150 lightning drag truck I’m building. It’s also a hard body newbright lol. Running 2 motors to help with heat
@@FullThrottleRC SWEET RIG, and excellent tuning. I also run no prep, on a mid motor traxxas build. I run a 4.0 turn motor, if you run a 3.5 turn? Try unlocking the diff and using about 100 k diff oil.i believe Your car will shoot MUCH straighter. Good luck & great videos.
I did. Probably not the best idea, but I haven't had a problem with it yet. The ends are still open so maybe that's why I'm not having any heat issues.
I'm running a 3.5t motor and it was underpowered for that motor. Using a SMC 2s 5000mah pack and a gens ace 2s 6000mah pack. The ESC would go into overload protection during every pass
FullThrottleRC okay cool. good to know. i just loaded up my diff with some super thick diff oil , but i’m wondering if i should have just locked it instead.
@@norcalrc I wouldn't recommend locking the diff out. See how his car wants to pull to the left? I use 200 k diff oil, and the car stay much straighter.
Hey my love your channel question This is driving me crazy for a couple weeks my voltage is dropping no more than low 5v and sometimes low 3v do you think capacitor help the situation new battery r1 11400 2s Hobbywing 4.5t low boost and turbo every gear and nothing my capacitor is really small thanks any help thanks
I would definitely say a capacitor should help, or a larger one. But voltage drop as low as 3 volts seems extremely low. I would check your wire size or connectors to make sure you can pull enough amps through them.
Would you recommend running the cap? I picked up a rig that had one and I feel it heated my esc up way too quickly. I didn't really notice a difference either.
It's definitely useful in racing. The power is a lot more responsive I would say with the cap. If you're just bashing I wouldn't say you would need one.
Its worth a try if you can get the parts needed. Just about everyone runs short course length wheel base with buggy track width. You would need to swap out the chassis for a short course chassis to extend it.
Unfortunately I don't have the means to ship anything right now with all the stay at home stuff. Whenever this is over or slows down, I'm hoping to have a couple printed parts available for people who can't print their own.
