Thanks a lot Justin Miller for posting your video on Testing a window defroster grid please keep posting more videos on here is really helping me a lot .
You may have excess resistance in the circuit so there's not enough voltage getting back to the window to power up the defogger. /There's voltage getting there just not as quick or as much voltage as there should be in a given time. OR your system is just designed to work slow.
My defroster stopped working, I thought it was the button because it doesn’t click in when you try to use it and no indicator light on dash? Had a different button put on and still didn’t work. They said no power at the grid and no way to fix without replacing the whole window? Any suggestions?
Check for power and ground at the grid again now that you have a new switch installed. If you are missing either the power or the ground, use your wiring diagram test to narrow down the source of the open circuit. If you have both power and ground at the defroster grid and it is still not heating up, then something is wrong with your grid.
get an Ohm meter and check each line be careful not to scratch through the lines...no more packages or stuff against the back glass...this is how it gets broken...Sparky
What it is when your test light light up when connecting from left negative and right positive but doesn't light up on any of the orange light. What can it be. I don't see any crack on any line
Either all of the grid lines are open or perhaps you have a film (like aftermarket window tint) covering the grid so that your probe isn't contacting the grid. If this is the case, you can carefully poke the test light probe (or a pin) through the tinting film until it contacts.
No. An open circuit will never cause a parasitic drain. You can watch my video on diagnosing parasitic drains for tips on how to narrow the problem down: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YhC8xj5vHUg.html
Each individual line in the grid is its own circuit. Breaking one of them should not have an effect on the others. If none of them heat up, either you broke all of them or the connection has been broken at one of the terminals on the sides of the window. Use a test light to figure that out quickly without guessing!
Justin Miller i don’t have 12v its 0v everywhere, plus when I test the continuity of the grids with the resistance mode of the multimeter, none of the grids bips!
