I use Stynylrez. The gray and white, anyway. Haven't used the black, yet. A couple of points: Do NOT let it freeze! If it freezes, it's ruined and nothing can be done to restore it to usability. I've also read of others having it go bad when stored under bright lights. Keep it shaded. I use a single action, external mix airbrush with a .5mm needle/nozzle to spray it at 20 psi. I wouldn't really recommend using a double action internal mix brush because, as you discovered, it does take a bit more work to clean up.
I've been using this lately and I have to say, I do really like the way it goes down and holds up. Sanding too has been pretty decent. I did find that the only time I had issues with the sanding is when I did not let it cure completely. The first time I tried sanding it, it kind of rolled up, similar to what Vallejo does; however, the last time, I let it sit and cure and it sanded beautifully and was able to feather the edges as needed. Due to my schedule of "Real Life" I wasnt able to touch it the second time for a little over a day, so I cant really say for sure how long it takes to get to the completely cured stage. I've found that masking over this stuff with Tamiya Tape, Scotch Blue and Frog Tape is fine, no lifting or blemishes at all. I'm currently shooting it through a Paasche Talon with .38 needle and spraying at about 25 psi. The only thing I've noticed is a little bit of occasional tip dry, but that is pretty easy to take care of. And as mentioned, cleanup of this out of the brush can take some extra time.
Good video. As you said it's a urethane based primer. Floor wax is essentially a clear urethane in a large bottle. Ive thinned acrylic paints with floor wax only and had about the same results as you did. The advantage of using floor wax based primer is you can make any color you want so in essence you have a primer finish coat all in one. To clean I just wipe out the excess paint with a paper towel, spray windex in a stream into the little whole at the bottom of the cup to make sure the mixture get cleaned out. Spray about a quarter of a paint cup with windex and water and it's all clean. If you have any floor wax laying around try it and tell me what you think
Cleaning this thing out of the airbrush is pretty intense... using 99.9 isopropyl and still had to rub and rub and rub and rub the cup for what felt like ages.
I love Stynylrez, just for your info, if you didn’t know, AMMO’S One Shot is actually Stynylrez! Question: I have never used Mr Surfacer 1500, how do you thin it?
Doog, what's the acrylic stand thingy you use to hold up your planes while painting? I've been looking for something similar and can't find anything that looks useful !
Matt, did you thin it at all or straight from the bottle? I have an Iwata Eclipse CS, 35mm needle. By the way, I love your humor, intelligence, and logic when it comes to modeling and your advice to us who are getting back into the hobby again. I have recently been getting my butt kicked by Alclad II, which is very hard to work with, for me. I flew jets in the USAF for 20 years and I have seen how dirty they can get and the difference between a factory Jet and one which has been flown for a while, so I really appreciate your work with metal variance.
Stynylrez doesn't like to be thinned. Just needs a good amount of air pressure - like 30psi. It feels all wrong to spray it, but can't argue with the results.
I bought a Paasche Talon airbrush on eBay for I think $35. Was going to use it as a metallic brush. Then Paasche put out a FanCap for it - Paul Buzink would approve. It lays down primer very nicely - wet, very smooth, little over spray. It needs the .66 needle-Talon's biggest. Works almost like a spray can. Works sweet with either Vallejo or Stynelrez. For me that's good because I don't have a booth and lacquer paints are not just in the cards. If I had a rough finish on a kit, I'd follow Buzink's suggestion and use a lacquer sandable-filler from a can also with fancap. I use Duplicolor - Napa makes one too but you have to make sure that they are genuine lacquer sandable-filler: most brands make many types. Nothing I've seen will get rid of scratches etc like this stuff - and you sand it when satisfied. (Buzink's ultimate solution is to get a Iwata Spray Gun and use automotive primers like Duplicolor.)
Hi Mat, about spraying with that Tornado in your hand... Have you tried adding one drop of demi water and one drop of Vallejo flow improver to about 20 drops of Stynylrez? This will effectively allow you to spray at a lower pressure, enabling more control and you may find the finish to be way smoother than before. "This may tame your Tornado"
I screwed up a batch tonight, first try. It was drying up my airbrush (low psi I later learned after reading the paint label) so I tried thinning it with 99% alcohol. It became a goopy blob. So I came looking for tips. I picked up a bottle at Badger. Nice people.
I'm sorry, Matt, I haven't looked too hard, so I'ask you. Do you thin Mr. 1500 when you prime with it? I think the stuff is great and worth waiting the month to get the stuff from Japan. But I'm reluctant to thin it. What do you do, Master Matt?
⭐️ great review of an excellent product that has an impossible name and a bottle that is made of way too thick plastic….and yes…”like spraying with a tornado “😅……clean up is hard though ⭐️ 👍
It's definitely a strange product name; I couldn't say it "right" either until I talked to someone at a model show and they mentioned the name. I was saying things like Stylin'Rez etc. but the way this dude said it made sense. think of it as Vinyl (like the Records) + Rez, but change the Vinyl to Stinyl. This way could still be the wrong way to pronounce it but it makes sense to me. that said, I have the 3 color set but haven't tried it yet. The last 3 models I've built I've primed them with Mr.Color Silver #8 and then whatever color the model should be, that way I could "chip" the paint by actually chipping the paint! I saw the technique in the Static Model Manual, World War II Bombers by Kamil Feliks Sztarbala. I can get pretty realistic results that way.
It's a primer for... Styrene, Vynil, & ResinErgo... "Stynylrez" Now, I'd like to see how it does on PE, but they'd have to change the name to "Stynylrezpho". I've seen some models integrate ABS, so it would have to be "Stynylresphoabs"... C'mon Badger, how about just call it "Multi-prep" surface primer and leveler? They've added an O.D. Green, red, and yellow to the line now. Besides the go-to gray, black, and white, I'd like to see them put this out in actual primer colors (i.e. zinc chromate green & yellow, atoke, pinkish/red Vought primer, etc. Between this review and Flory, you guys have sold me on this stuff.
Does the Mr. surfacer 1500 that comes in a jar does it need to be thinned to spray through an airbrush And what should I thin it with if it does need to be thinned
What is important to me is will it pull off if you put masking tape on it.Lacquer primers eat in to the plastic, that is why i use Surfacer 1500 or Tamiya primer
If you give it 24 hours, it's very resistant to tape lift. Though I've noticed two things - it's scratches more easily and it seems to attract dust more than MS1500. For the most part, I still use Mr Surfacer, but if I'm dealing with an area with a lot of nooks and crannies, where a lacquer might be prone to dusty, I'll reach for this stuff. You can flood it into those areas and it'll still level out beautifully.
@@SubversionArts It could easily be purchased by AMMO and re-sold, pursuant to a licensing agreement with Badger, under its name and labeling. AFAIK, and by the reports of all others, they're the same. Why are you confident they aren't?
