Testing Climbing Figure 8s with Hard Is Easy 

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Definitely want more HowNot2 and Hard is Easy collabs! You guys both do such a good job. Love the joint projects.

Hahaaa you used this beginning :DDD It was a joke.... :DDDD P.s. Thanks for testing this! P.s.s. I have a long list of things to break :DDD

A collab I didn’t know I wanted. Sick to see.

My 2 fav channels collaborating?! I WANT MOAR!!!!

Nice collaboration! Stumbled upon Bens video the other day and enjoyed it a lot, thanks for taking it one step further :D

Yes please. Collaborate again. This was great.

The collab I was waiting to seeeeee, thanks for the video Ryan.

"Tie too short of a tail, YA DIE!" That's what I come here to avoid, thanks as always for the awesome content.

Both of you are great I like the idea of collaboration especially when the subjects overlap!! Thanks guys

such a beautiful collab!!! i love both of your channels!!!!

It would be interesting to see how a Yosemite finish stacks up against a normal figure 8... Great work!

This is incredible. thank you!

It would be interesting to see at what point a figure eight would break crossloaded but with a stoper knot

DUDE! Great collab and great testing. Very interesting! Thanks sooo much! :-)

loved the collaboration!

I keep hearing again and again that soap is bad for ropes, but as a chemist, I don't see how. Since you have some leftover rope, I'm wondering if you would do a few tests where you wash a rope in the washing machine line 100 times and see if there is a difference in the strength.

It would be interesting testing a figure 8 against both a double bowline and a rethreaded bowline to see just how strong bowlines are.

Great collaboration, thanks guys! 🙌

MELHOR Canal do RU-vid.! Melhor forma de mostrar para as pessoas não morrem por falta da informação técnica de verdade . Ao vivo e a cores ! Obrigado. Parabéns pela inciativa.

No Yosemite finish tested from the Yosemite climber?? xD thx for the video Ryan!

Great work. I love failure analysis, it would probably be difficult or dangerous to be close to the knot, but I think a laser thermometer on the knot would be interesting:)

Great collab - really enjoyed watching both your videos. Over here in Europe the rethreaded double bowline is very popular as a bind-in knot, because it's a lot easier to untie than a figure 8 knot after a lead fall. Would be great to see how this not compares on your slack snap machine :-)

Just seeing this channel; love the content. When I first learned climbing I was always taught to tie stopper knots at the end of the tail to keep the figure 8 from unraveling. It'd be interesting if you were able to test the strength of the rope with stopper knots/the stopper knots themselves. If you've already done that my apologies for missing it. Cheers!

Love it!!

When I did CSR my one buddy always did a safety knot with his tail after making finger eights. We used them for everything though. Anchors, belays, main line systems. I’m a big fan of them. Thanks for the great content as always.

Collaborations with Ben, love to see 😎👍

Thank you for the video and knowledge

That intro!!! 😂 thanks for doing these tests 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻

Great stuff!

Interesting experiment !!

So glad this ended up here!

Great job 👍💯

Thanks!

LOLOL- "Why don't they call the overhand a figure 7!" Great humor, great testing with very interesting results. Thanks to both Ben and Ryan!

I completely thought this was hard was easy! Great Collab!

Good collab!

Great job and very interesting

Excellent

Can we just appreciate how stretchy climbing ropes are.

This channel always makes me feel really good about my choice of DMM steel screwgates...

Id love to see normal cams tested in slightly offset placements! Like back lobes slightly overcammed with the front ones at a perfect angle.

That "shorter" tail was still plenty long, would be interesting to see how much force it takes to pull a 5cm or 7cm tail through

Good cooperation! Jeep on going.

Another one of your videos I would love to see done on static line as well.

Wonderfully insightful from both of you! Wish you would continue the collaboration: 1 + 1 = 3 (synergy of thought and creativity). Best wishes, and thanks! Fun to see two different, but equally intriguing personalities styles and approaches at work together! : )

Thanks für this very nice video. It would be interesting to see some other knots in comparison. What abaut tying two ropes together? Which knot realy is strong? Butterfly, Fisherman, Overhand, Figure8(straight/sideways), some more....

Thaks for test! And special for open data test results! What about ringloading for kalmyk loop vs holland bowline

You should give an updated tour of the museum of slack

Love the intro.

Sweet. Another groovy channel. Thanks for your work. I'm in Australia so I'm not sure how much I can support your coffee...

Colab was awesome. Would love to see an even shorter tail figure 8 so it actually pulls through.

Now double bowline verse figure 8

I love figure 7!

At 12:19 I was expecting you to say "so finish it with a barrel knot" haha

Please test crossloading the strains! Like an Alpine Butterfly, but a figure 8. Pretty Please!!! Love the channel!

That guy with hard is easy at the beginning of this vid has a very good explanation of the F8 in his full vid - it will change your mind on stuff....

Breaking or pulling out some pitons, knife blades, arrows would be cool to see!

I want to see the Yosemite finish with figure 8 as well as double bowline

explains the times a fig 8 broke hauling a car out of the snow. never knew about orientation of load strand.

I would like to see you test normal paracord with various configurations and knots. I would also like to see variant brands tested, from the perceived best to the stretchiest. I would like it compared to dyneema of a comparable diameter and or strength. If you double a loop for instance is that twice the strength? Triple. hold it in a web-lock? Nets would be really hard to test. However, ...

I really wanted to see the strength of a figure8 'bunny ears' knot, where you take a bight through and loop it over the knot, giving you two loops to clip into. THis is handy for getting two independent loops for your two toprope biners, or to have a master-point plus a tie-in point. My guess: each of the two bunny ears would be as strong as a single one.

Keep the dad jokes alive!! Lmao

Watching the cross load was interesting i knew that they roll out but would you do different ways people join ropes for rappel. Euro death, double fish, figure 8?

I am watching these videos to increase my faith in climbing equipment.

I'm only watching for the cat but the data is a nice bonus I guess

Got it, If I ever cross load 5,241.6 lbs, I'll die. Good thing no one weighs that.

I would like to see what you can load the rope and still untie it (without a sledge).

“Didn’t grunt enough.”

I would love to see a test of the problem of rolling when you connect two ropes for rappel with a figure of eight compared to two overhand knots, greetings from switzerland :)

Would you mind testing a figure-eight on a Yosemite finish (figure-eight follow through)? Might be interesting to see what happens there

I was taught to tie in the right way, which is also easier, back in the 70s. I was told the right way was 80% strand strength, and the wrong way was 65% strand strength. Apparently not so dramatic a difference in these tests, not that one expects nice round percentages to be dead on. I was lucky to be briefly in a club with an engineer who worked with the UIAA, and he later wrote their book on ropes. I was a little surprised to see that most RU-vid instructors recommend not thinking about this knot polarity issue, as their main concern is getting people to tie a figure of 8 correctly at all. Either method will stop that sinking feeling, but it is closer even than I had been told. The reason I was told that the one way was stronger than the other was that it was tied so that the load line's first reversal is around a 3 strand radius, and not a two strand radius. This is a factor I incorporate in a lot of knots, and there are some not knot ways of incorporating it also. But as your test also shows, there is more to it than that as the knot is basically unstable when loaded, if tied incorrectly. The thing about that though, is how by the time it blows, either knot has seated into a form where it has moved into a more advantageous position. So maybe it is the radius issue after all.

You haven't done the zeppelin bend yet ?? I went through the excel and couldn't find it. Also you can try the zeppelin loop. It would be interesting to see how it compares. Also interesting to see how easy/hard it would be to undo afterwards. Thanks a lot guys

When tying in with a fig 8 I always leave a tail and tie a barrel knot in the tail round the load strand. Done it for last 28 years of climbing and never seen anyone else do it (other than for industrial access work). Seeing that tail slip when loop-pulling I feel happier that it's not just a silly superstition of mine and it's actually a good thing to do. Maybe the added barrel knot is a Yosemite finish to the 8 ;)

do you have a breaking test of figure 8 vs bowline?

I wanna see how quick the loaded rope parts when touched with a sharp blade

Yes i like figuer 8 Two, tanks tutorial waowwwww amazing bro

Mad respect for the 2 of you! What's the conclusion though? That it doesn't matter how you tie your figure eight, the breaking strength more or less remains the same?

It would be interesting to see when a rope will snap after repeated falls at around 3kn, the average lead fall impact.

Could you test a double bowline which is many peoples second choice, or at least the other option.

can you do the same test with a bowline knot?

how strong is a double bowline knot vs. a figure eight knot

So much curiosity about other knots, and ropes... Will the slack snap break 3/4” amsteel + with class II eyes splice?

Where can I see the Spreadsheet with all the data?

8:59 "Look, a scrunchee" XD

That sure does look like a 9.9 black diamond rope....I could be wrong though.

Do a loop with a figure 9 and do the crossload test again...

Could you pls test the figure of 9? and figure of 8 with the tail re-threaded? I suspect that the tail re-threaded will make the know much stronger - as it will make the bend radius of the load strand larger

If you cross load figure 8 (the last test), would a stopper knot save you? or even just tying a figure 8 stopper at the end of the short end (that would slip out in this situation?)

put a knot before the loop in the eight double the strength

Can you guys break a few types of quickdraws?

Wonder what happens if you cross load a figure 8 with a stopper knot? Is it kind of safe?

How about a two-loop figure eight versus a figure eight?

Niceness

In a lead climbing fall, where is the rope most likely to break? At the knot or at the first quickdraw? What about sharp rock edges?

What does a figure 8 with Yosemite finish break at?

Thought he was going to reverse into it

Dude, now you got to try to untie those knots!

I beleive the open source lab results are not anymore available on your website?!

What's the manufacturers listed breaking strength of that rope?