What happens if you tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot wrong? 

You can use this as a bend like @theropeaccesschannel shows, just make sure your tails are long enough. See his video at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tRrIUybUyd0.html

I don't rock climb, but you have the most educational videos out there. I can learn so much, yet still not know so much. You do a great job explaining things and I hope you continue to put effort into your channel. I might actually start climbing because you guys make it look so fun and interesting.

Not sure if I should share this, but I was literally wiping my ass when you said "right after you're done wiping". For a second I was afraid I was in a Black Mirror episode.

As one of those pedantic "knot guys," I appreciate this deep dive in the Phallic Knot. I look forward to more knot tests *cough* left handed sheet bend *cough*

It would be really cool if you got one of those thermal cameras for you phone to see the heat generated in the rope.

Prusik Peak in The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness (in Washington)

I was actually taught that the butterfly can be used to reduce shock loads on static ropes due to its tendency to slip on high loads. I would be so curious to see how it performs in that role!

Love these knot videos. Knot history is one of my favorite things to nerd about.

This is a super well-made and detailed video. Great educational and entertaining content Ryan.

Really grateful to see the results of the last variation you tied 'incorrectly' so to speak. In the UK, I know that as a cavers knot. I often use both to link anchors together, using the alpine if they are relatively close or the cavers if there is more distance between. I would tie the cavers as a slip knot locked off with a half hitch over the eye. 🤷‍♂️ Love you vids, thanks for knowledge share. Happy New Year.

Super great video. Bit of history and deeper in the trchnical side to stick to simple until i practice and study way more

Love the butterfly. Super easy to untie. Near the end go directional eight. Done and done

I'd imagine it was probably invented multiple times throughout the ten thousand years of rope history, but we didn't keep records of it that survived. 100+ year history is hard

Good info. One thing you haven't tested... The butterfly knot is not mirrored in itself. So pulling the loop to the left is different from pulling the loop to the right. The other standing part of the rope is tensioned. Care to try that sometime?

Great analysis of this iconic knot. I don't see that anyone answered you opening question ..... what's on the green screen behind you? You are in the Enchantments Permit area, likely at Gnome Tarn. Over your left shoulder is Prusik Peak, to the right, the knob is the High Priest, the jagged ridge is The Temple group. We packed into the plateau twice in the early 70',s, long before permits were required. Wish that I still had the knees to get up there again!

Amazeballs video. I use the butterfly all the time. Almost as much as the 8 and clove. Great to see its strengths and weaknesses. Also learned a new way to tie it. Ps. Your puffie is loud. 😅

Ooo Prusik Peak! Love the Core!

1452 looks like a "zeppelin bend" to me. a really great easy to tie knot to have in your pocket!

Nice backdrop, hope you enjoyed the Enchantments, great area.

criss cross is how i learned it. glad to know it doesn't matter which way you go after that. love this knot.

this is super cool! and informative. I always assumed crossed vs not crossed we variants of the same knot (strength wise) based on real world use and that the only difference was in the way they were tied

you guys got me all tied up in knots over here. most egg sell ant video. very professional feel. great job.

Mighty nice spot!! I climbed the Burgner/Stanley on Prusik Pk. circa 1979. Think it's been upgraded to 5.10. And many other area routes.

Prusik Peak! I love living so close to that range.

Thanks for the knot strength tests and bitcoin charts, enjoyed it, eager to browse through the rest of your videos.

Great video! I'm going into work late now, since I couldn't stop partway through! 😄

Nice! And super nice video. Another use for the alpine butterfly: Isolated retrievable system. Isolate 1 strand for rapell for a retrievable system, on a grigri, be pilot or whatever. At the anchor with the rope through, tie a alpine butterfly on one side of the anchor, either clip a carabiner to that AND the other side of the anchor. (,Can also be done without the carabiner, thread the other side rope through) Now you can rapell of one strand safley, and pull the other from below to retrieve the system. Used in arborism, can even be set up from below, throwing the rope over a branch with a weight. But don't take my word for it. Strider tree gear ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8I4LJL2dKcg.html That also shows.the alpine butterfly is a trusted stoppern knot... This could be tested! :D

I did the knot exactly as you describe at 3:42 in the video and compared it with the right/wrong version at 19:48 and it doesn't look like any of them! On checking, the image you have at 19:48 is a mirror image of reality - only when the image is mirrored back again does the knot look like the one with the tick. I'm surprised nobody has noticed this.

get this dude to a million pls

Prusik Peak! Great climbs.

I was taught the twist method and have never tied this by wrapping around my hand; though I’ve always been decent with knots and haven’t really had difficulty learning new knots.

Gnome Tarn with Prusik peak behind. In the core of the Enchantments!

@HowNOT2 I’m sure someone has guessed already. But that’s Prusik Peak on The Temple in The Enchantments on the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Absolutely my favorite place in the world.

Great video. This one is a classic. I practiced my knots just as you said, while watching RU-vid. Then I went sailing for three months. Alpine Butterfly, bowline? bulletproof. I can do it one handed with my eyes closed. My rolling hitch and cleat hitches..... unreliable. Why? Because I didn't have a railing, life line or cleat by my computer to practice on. And I only tied these on my boat when I needed them (and then retied them.) Three months of sailing every day. Using these knots daily. I was still unreliable, not automatic. The other sailors had more experience than me but inevitably while they were mumbling something about a rabbit and a tree, I'd just reach in and crank off the bowline. I think I've learned that while you might learn knots on the job, it's far better to deliberately practice them becoming more and more efficient. You want them to be automatic and correct. (If I tied a bowline wrong it would feel wrong.) I just learned about the Inuit Bowline. It's a bit more secure than a regular bowline. (Inuit because it was noticed being used on a dog sled over 150 years ago.) So on a sailboat, good to have. Climbing? Maybe for gear but not yer butt. Not yet. I learned almost immediately how to tie the Inuit Bowline by seeing how it was different from the automatic bowline method. ('Car start turn loop', pull the top line through the loop run the bitter end through that loop, roll it over. For the Inuit Bowline the only difference is you pull line below the first loop to make the second loop. If you know the first method you now immediately know how to do the Inuit.) And for the record: I was a terrible Boy Scout, my knots sucked. But I learned.

Gnome Tarn. I have that same shot from climbing Prusik Peak, beautiful.

Thermal imaging would be interesting in real time.

I like knots that are: a) easy to tie b) easy to inspect I never use the butterfly because it is neither. Here is a wee test to show if the butterfly is easy to inspect. Take a piece of paper and from memory draw a figure eight knot. Now from memory draw a butterfly knot. A rule of thumb could therefore be - if you can't easily draw it you can't easily inspect it.

That, Sir, is Prusik Peak in the Enchantments area of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in Washington State. One of the most uniquely beautiful places I've ever seen.

huh interesting! I just used a phallic knot as my stopper with an overhand for a tagline rappel on a reepschnur hitch. I will now only be tying the double phallic.

How does it compare to a bowline on a bite? Feel like they would perform pretty similarly in most of the tests? Maybe

Me and the homies ran some laps up a route well under our collective ability, and we had three climbers in the party climb on one rope, one on each end and one in the middle clipped to a butterfly. Because of pitch length, two at a time would simulclimb for a short time. Since that day, I have always wondered what would happen if all three “directions” of the knot would be loaded if on top belay, and both climbers fell.

26:12 that veiw

Prusik Peak, was there last week. Specifically at the gnome tarn by Prusik.

Yee ol' prusik peak. Enchantments are gorgeous.

i had had a wrongly tied butterfly that had load on it, it didn't give, but it was pretty hard to undo afterwards

Tell use with chart which knots are good as strength wise

Awesome video. Love the idea ABK suggests this knot is only 100 plus years old. Backdrop: Sundial Peak (Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah)?

I see we agree on the name. now I know you are GOOD!

Personally the way I find is easiest for students to learn is wrap one into crook of thumb, wrap two around base of fingers,third wrap between the two.pull the outside one out as long as required,take the bight and feed it under all the strands from wrist out towards the fingers.

Fun fact - the knot you get when the butterfly inverts during ring-loading is still a butterfly, the loop strands and the tail strands just swap places!

You should see how the window cleaners use this important knot. You can tie two separate lines at different anchor points and center perfectly by attaching 2 alpine knots together with a carabiner. So handy, easy to untie for sure.

Good ole' Gnome Tarn, under Prusik Peak! :)

Thanks for all the great video's & info! highline use question: Could you use a butterfly knot in a backup webbing (highline setup) to make a intermittened connection? Since I have a long Parsec (120m / back up) and 2 polar 50m with loops (main)? what would be the "reduce strenght" factor to calculate the overall strenght of the webbing?

You got me with the like button joke, I'm in!

Great video. Looks like watersprite lake in the background

Thanks Ryan! Great Job!

I need to review all the permutations of this butterfly knot. Thanks

I LOL’d at 11:39

Thanks for this extremely nice video! Do you have any idea what made the knot slip in some of the tests and not in others? Is there anything one can do to prevent slipping, other than putting something in the bight?

How does an alpine work when an even gorse is applied on both leading ends and a constant load on the loop.

is the alpine butterfly working for rappelling? is cant get undone because there is a rope in the loop and its retrieveable when you are the ground.. would be nice to know

Now this is science!

Prusik Peak!

You keep saying interlinked and I keep repeating it back but no one has confirmed I'm close to baseline?

"Or when you're done wiping" 😂

You're knot gonna believe it, but that is Prusik Peak!

16:57 : The first one came out wrong, too. The wings are not on the same side. The left wing looks as if it were facing to the lake (with it's rope) but if you were to pull the legs the left wing would turn away from the lake. This is how I just managed to tie the knot: (with legs I mean the rope coming out of the wings) Go in and have it as at 16:41 and then tighten the overhand knot a bit and then you arrange the leg that is already part of a finished overhand knot to the side like it would be if the alpine butterfly knot were already done. Then you see one rope going over the finished leg and around the loop (loop that goes through the carabiner). This rope already goes around and becomes the leg. Then you can create the other side by also going around the loop but in the opposite direction. After going around, tunnel the finished leg (in the center) and also dive into the overhand loop that you just created. The last step is easier if the unfinished knot is pre-dressed and the leg is arranged as if the knot were completely done.

Which one is right? At 3:30 and 4:20 parallel strands are in bettween the ears; while at 4:37 parallel is at the back, crisscrossed between the ears

Ryan, I am absolutely sure it is not Key West Florida, but the terrain looks very similar, so I know it is close. I would have to say it’s Key Largo Florida. By the way, did you see that big fish jump in the background? It might be a Marlin or something?

Damnit!... I had stuff to do and now I'm stuck here for 26 minutes!

Ashley book of knots #1135. Have you tried that one? A double bow that slips out easily. Use a carabiner and the loop tightens giving you maximum rope to work with. 🤔

The loop for your long-link or progress adjust should be at the end after the overhand and not between the damaged part. The damage part should be the longer side of the bite and the not damaged part sould be shorter. At least that's what IRATA says. Probably doesn't matter that much.

just here to say what I know I'll have to say to my rescue students: 9kN is SUPER good enough!

Also known as the man rope knot when used to create handholds in a rope for deranging things by hand, such as moving old cannons. Does clipping carabiners through the eyes change any of your results? This was done to speed untying during races.

Immediately after hitting around the 4 minute mark, I went to the bathroom, took a massive dump and practiced the tying technique

thx

Oh hey, nice Zebralight!

Prusik peak seen from gnome tarn. Alpine lakes wilderness in Washington State.

Prusik peak, the enchantments wa

I've always steered clear of alpine caterpillars and butterflies over hands and prefered figure8s

How about gibbs knot?i also wanna know about its test

Nice work. At about 20 min in would you call that an overhand loop with an half-hitch backup?

Is there any simulation software that can show the internal stresses and fails inside knotted ropes of various kinds?

Prusik peak lookin nice

A young Climber named McPot tied an unsafe Butterfly Knot he screamed as he fell MY GOD I'LL BE HARDLY A SPOT

Kinda amazing to me that pulled extra overhand with the butterfly didn't fail before the butterfly although it looked very close to an EDK but that makes me wonder about what if you had 2 overhand knots, would they be stronger than the butterfly or possibly an 8?

Phenomenal

0:30 if thats a green screen then im a aero plane pilot ahahaha That water looks as real as their are birds in the sky and fish in the sea ahaha

What if the knot was dressed and set as tight as it could be before pulling ?

what is difference in tests between 5:28 and 9:07 , why is one tests causing it to snap and the other to slip

I'd like to get access to your test set up. i came up with a knot, an end loop, and would love to know how it stacks up. i don't climb but made a survival belt years ago, and started into "knots."

Could you do a comparison between the butterfly and a bowline in a bite. I work on seagoing tugboats although we don’t use many knots,occasionally we need to use a mid line loop. Generally the connections we do use round turns with figure 8s and splices. Knots in big ropes tend to weld themselves into a mass that has to be cut, even a half hitch. By big rope I mean things that have a circumference 7 inches and up.

I recently used an butterfly to isolate a piece of static rope in my anchor whose sheath got torn. I am curious as to whether the butterfly was really better than using a figure 8 haha

Prussic peak. Good fun 5.10 I did up that a year back

Are you in the enchantments, Washington?

Is this Cathedral peaks in Tuolumne?

Interesting is that the Death gives you a clue, in many cases multiple clues, before it gets you. You get multiple "sh!t yourself" moments before whole system gets apart! Kind of nice feature :D Definitely better than BANG! off you go scenario.

13.30 great tip👍

anyone else notice that the unidentifiable knot from the death slabs fixed line (15:37) looks suspiciously similar to one of the improper ways of tying the ABK after it was pulled to destruction (21:22)?

That stock footage I'm pretty sure is Prusik Peak. It's part of The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. (Alpine, as in Alpine Butterfly knot. Ha!) It was named in honor of Dr. Karl Prusik, who was an Austrian mountaineer and inventor of the prusik knot. What free gift do I get?