I bought the purple one a few months back. Painted a glass food grade jar, to make a urn for my mother. Since the funeral home handed her in a small grey box and wanted 100 bucks for a "fancy urn". I'd much rather make one that would honor my mother alot better. Long slightly sad story short. I love the color, it pops so nice.
Can't wait for your neon color panel liners!!! That'll be a great addition to gunpla, with psycho installed!! Always thank you for all the great help and advice take care Rex
i was at my local Hobby Lobby today in East Haven CT, their Hobby Section shrunk quite a bit got a bunch of things but I wish they had cans like this....
Man, I love your channel. Every time I need to see what a color/paint looks like, I do a search on YT, and your channel comes up. Thanks for all the teating.
If you decant regular Krylon and spray with an airbrush--- thin a little with lacquer thinner -it will polish out beautiful-I have used the blue foil color already on a 63 Vette-shoulda put some clear over -they shine more and you can see the flakes
@@barbatosrex9473 I went to my HL today -they still don't have that gold foil color-I want to try it-I use Testor's extreme lacquer clear -or 2K clear over my paint
Colour Tip when showing a colour: I'm an artist. When you show a colour and put your hand behind it. I know what you are doing is trying to get it into focus. The problem with this, the way the eye perceives colour adjacent colours. When you put your hand next to a colour say grey. The flesh colour of your hand changes the grey to appear warmer than it is. If you placed a blue object next to it of similar size it will make the grey look cooler. Better is to use a neutral object to get the camera to focus (such as black or white) which won't effect the actual colour you're showing. You can see this effect clearly if you paint a take 2 small squares, the same grey square, and surround it with orange square, and on the other a blue square. Given most of your videos are showing off colours, knowing this will help the viewer see the actual colour when you show colours this way. Hope that helps.
_Better is to use a neutral object to get the camera to focus (such as black or white) which won't effect the actual colour you're showing._ Better yet if you use something like a neutral middle gray (N5, 18%, etc) card. Then not only you're not skewing hue perception, but also lightness and saturation.
Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of thinning decanted spray paint? The consistency is already thin enough to go through an airbrush, since it was designed to be sprayed.
@@DeeeFoo from my experience, the propellant in spray cans tends to gas off quicker than a traditional thinner and the paint will thicken up much quicker than you're expecting
With respect, I do believe you missed the mark on the Krylon paints. I've been monkeying with the Duplicolor Metalcast anodize-look paints for about 12 years. Without a doubt, they work best over a chrome or at least a highly-polished silver base. They sell a chrome paint specifically for that line. I don't know what the Krylon cans say on it, but I think a reshoot over chrome should be considered. Dupli has been in this game much longer than Krylon, so perhaps you should check out that line. I have painted valve covers, air cleaner housings, and carburetor parts with the Metalcast. I got hooked on the anodize look back in the 70's when a skateboard company name Banzai sold aluminum boards with brushed or polished finishes. Subsequent scratches under use showed a bright silver base, so this is nothing new. Take care.
Metalcast is more like a "candy" type paint. These are a metallic. Krylon does sell another line that works like the Metalcast, but they market it for stained glass projects.
@@TwoAMBlacktop Candies go over metallics like gold, silver, copper, etc. Perhaps related, but different. Look what I said about the number of auto parts I've used this on. Regardless, Mr. Rex is going to gain nothing but knowledge trying the Krylons on a chrome base.
@@413x398 Candies are just dye tinted clears. They don’t care what the base is. Krylon foils are not a transparent paint, it would be like spray painting chrome with any other metallic. I’ve used Metalcast before and unless they’ve changed them in the last 15 years, they’re pretty much a candy.
Worth note: if you do a lot of painting with rattle cans, it may be worth picking up a set of Montana caps and adaptors for male cans like Rusto, you can get a lot of control over the coverage and the spray from the right caps and they are easy to use. You can get really close to the control of an airbrush with good caps.
@@madswan2072 I definitely don't disagree with that. I don't like the adaptors at all, since they just break or clog. But worth it for the caps if you're gonna use those paints anyway.
Prob too late but I was gonna give a suggestion on a 1:2.7 mix of gaia ex black with Gaia pro use thinner. The result might surprise you when it comes to reflectivity
Always Warm Paint cans in Hot Water to Raise paint temp to 88-98 Degrees Farenheight it Thins the paint for Finer Spray also raise propellant pressure. This a basic Rule for All Spray Paints Except Tamiya
I hope that I'm not too late for you to see my comment, new fan who just subscribed. Was looking for a comprehensive review of Mr. Color Clear and Mr. Metallic and watched this autoplay suggestion because I've also been looking for a comprehensive review of the Krylon Foil Blue. The kit that I want to use it on (Bandai Figurise MetalGarurumon Amplified) also demands neon orange panel lines, so my next video search was going to be how to make your own panel lining fluids with neon pigments. Then out of the blue you pull out UV reactive neon orange panel lining fluid that is more accurate to the Digimon: Our War Game movie's art style that I'm sitting here pins and needles for my opportunity to get a bottle. Looking forward to the Patreon, too! I'll definitely subscribe. Maybe you could do a tier where patrons could send you a kit or custom and have you paint it and feature it in a video? I have a custom 30 Minute Missions model I'm pretty proud of that I'd love to send your way and see what you do with it with no expectation of even receiving it back, you could use it for a giveaway or something, even!
Rex, I would like to ask you if you have come across anything that would produce a candy rootbeer color to work with a custom hot rod for me? Even a nice straight metallic would be okay. Its that red undercast under the brown metallic, or that red tone over it? It is a very hard color to find, and not used much. Maybe keep in mind for me in the stroll of your paint sharing which is a corner of this hobby you got covered for us
Go with clear brown. I have several brands of it here. Try that over different bases like a gold or brass. It's great, I've tested it out. It's an underrated color. I did a video a while ago just on clear brown
I have painted many box cars of my garden railway trains sprayed with with Krylon for many years now & the paint & model have held up very well through snow, rain, & sun. Box acr models are made of styrene & some freight cars made of wood. Because of the size of the models & structures, the cans of paint is more useful for the base color. Airbrushing is done for trim or striping. In my HO train club we use Krylon for buildings & scenery (mostly trees to very the color green). Buildings are styrene, cardboard , wood & PVC. On the layout buildings tend to be very large (apartment buildings). These paints are meant to use in the 1:1 scale (real life) world, so the paint is thick for modeling. There is success in decanting the paint & sprayed thru an airbrush (spray large amount into a jar, thinned with the appropriate thinner, & shot thru the airbrush, my Paasche H3, #3 needle). On train models , plastic has no signs of paint attack (2 - 3 coats color, 2 coats of outdoor or UV resistant clear to cover decals). I have had good results with the Fusion line, formulated to spray on plastic outdoor furniture.
I used the gold foil on a project, I love the color and the bright shine.. however, when it comes time to dust, what would you suggest? The piece I'm referring to is a life-size C3PO head prop
@@barbatosrex9473 I just painted it today, so I'm not sure if it's rubbing off or not, I'm going to let it sit and join me for a few days and see how it actually feels to the touch.. I figured if I want to do something like that without killing the luster is to use canned air
DUDE!!!! I’ve been wanting a neon green panel liner forever. I have an unfinished green and black barbatos that needs it. It would also work good with doing the head on the moon gundam!
Krylon's qc is too variable to be dependable honestly. I have had too many issues with their paints to recommend them personally. Which sucks because their primers and gloss black used to be great substitutes for Tamiya spray cans.
Very good! I have a love/hate relationship with most rattle can paint, especially Krylon and Rustoleum. This does look pretty good, but I try to keep my spray paint can buying to a minimum. I'm super thankful that because of model painting and hobbies that you can still actually buy lacquer in a can, because it's not widely available anymore and it's something that works great for work that I do. The neon looks great, and I look forward to seeing your lineup.
by chance, does anyone know if this needs any sort of sealant for a final touch? and if so, is there one that won't diminish the metallic effect? I'm new to spray painting and desperately want to keep the reflective metallic look on my 3D printed sword prop
Ever thought of creating a spreadsheet of all your test results? Maybe when you run out of things to do you can do something like that :-) BTW, thanks for recommending the paint mixing cups. They're fantastic.
