Some mistakes like a sensor not being able to read correctly is because they're turning it on within 5 meters of the refrigerant leak. Try to find some fresh air, turn it on, wait for 5 minutes if it's still inaccurate you have a magic arse wand :). This mistake was seen in a gas explosion somewhere because someone from a gas company calibrated it inside the building. The gas detection thing is using the same principle as that. And a word from me, these are designed on ENCLOSED spaces. Not on outdoor areas.
I’m trying to make sense of why my UEI Combustible Gas Leak detector was being triggered by the ground I was working on the other day. UEI still hasn’t called me back
@@thehvachacker DISREGARD MY COMMENT ABOUT HOW TO RECALIBRATE!!!! UEI CAN VOID ITS WARRANTY IF YOU DO THAT! THAT IS STRICTLY FOR ANYTHING BUT NATURAL GAS AND EXPLOSIVE GASES. Follow the UEI basic recalibration instructions on the manual. If it doesn't work, bring it to UEI for recalibration. IF A GAS LEAK IS PROBABLE, CALL THE GAS COMPANY IMMEDIATELY
I found a gas leak before the meter so homeowner needs to call utility company just the mulch was triggering the combustible gas leak detector. I called UEI yet haven't heard back from them.
Highly recommended getting an ultrasonic leak detector. They are amazing! We use the Accutrak and it has been undefeated in finding leaks these detectors in this video failed to find.
I still preferred the traditional way of leak detecting...most of the time electronic leak detector failed just rely on senses and experience its much better
I usually use a bubble solution while recharging. If I don’t find and the customer authorized a leak search then I use the sniffer to get close to the leak. If I don’t find with the sniffer or bubble solution then a cut and cap gets done in the off season. I separate everything seal up as you see this coil and pressurize each component. Whatever loses pressure has the leak, which is usually not in a repairable location.
Isolation leak search on very difficult to find split system leaks. Fill or pressurize system 250psi nitrogen or more. Shut down service valves... Then you know what side leak is at ( inside or outside). Gives you good starting point. Had to do this on system with underground linesets that were over 75ft long.
We do cut and caps which is the same as you mentioned except we isolate all the components. This coil failed one of my cut and caps why it’s piped how it is. I leave room on the piping Incase it has to go back into the system piping. Also pipe the lineset together and condenser can cap piping and just pressurize. It’s the sure leak test yet your talking leaving a customer down. When we do cut and caps we let the system sit for a week. Everything pressurized between 350 and 400 psi. Something is dropping?
Inaccurate: Same problem I have with these small detectors. They beep everywhere there's no leak. They'll only find a real leak when you rub its nose in it, as you had to do. You spent a good 5 minutes probing 3 inches of tubing. Imagine how long it would take to do a whole system.
@@carlosluna181 next time you put in a new one usually on the bid sheet you're right in there you provided the smoke detector the electricians wire them
The false readings is why I always confirm with big blu. These things are great until they are not. Which I guess goes for everything. Good luck on your hunt.
I like the D-Tek and it gets me into the area if not pinpointing. the other one in this video not so much. I use bubble solution cause if I don't find it with a solution I can't fix it.
@@thehvachacker i agree i like the D-tek also. Most time majority of techs do not use them correctly. I have found leaks when was unable to locate with soap bubbles/ leak solution. Thats cause depending on where coils leak you won't always see bubbles. ....
Yet a coil leak usually means that component is toast unless it’s a u bend. I don’t know why most companies put the other meter in this video on most service trucks it doesn’t pick up leaks often.
@@thehvachacker just changed them monday. was leak checking yesterday kept getting false readings and didnt find the leak. think i exposed it to too much moisture and oil.
Correct me if I am wrong but don't most Inficons Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detectors D-TEK & TEK-MATE & COMPASS use the same sensor ? Part Number:703-020-G1. Heated Diode sensor same technology as the Bacharach H-10 PRO.
Robinair. TIFZX is the best. I've tried plenty. I've followed behind other HVAC companies that couldn't find the leak and it will find it in seconds. I've yet to not be able to find a leak.
I like the D-Tek I bought it back in 2007. I need to buy a new battery for it since the charge doesn’t last long. It’s so old it meet SAE for r12, r404a, and 134a At least if I need it I can plug it in. I’m not a fan of the TEK mat. It doesn’t find all the leaks and gives lots of false readings. As you could see in the video the wind was triggering it. I should of gave the refrigerant some time to start leaking before I started testing when around 25psi. I will see if either can pick up the leak I’m looking for after I finish troubleshooting this generator
I bought an aliexpress model and it worked well until I think I got water in the tip or too much gas hit the sensor or the wrong type of gas hit the sensor. Anyway ordered another and will be more careful
Been using a DTEK for over 10 years. If you do not replace the sensor often it becomes useless. What you are doing is killing your sensor. If you feel it’s not working correctly just change the sensor.
Over the life the sensor becomes saturated and does not pickup on smaller traces of refrigerant. So as you are looking for leaks. It will pickup on the larger leaks but not the pin hole smaller leaks. I know this because I became very frustrated with mine and couldn’t find a leak. Called up DTEK and they explained to me exactly what I explained to you. I changed the sensor and returned to the job the following week to find the leak in 5 minutes on a 5hp multiple evap +20° evap system . So by “checking “ your sensor you are hurting your sensor.
I hurt my senser when I take it out to look at it? I am on my 2rd senser and now it’s time for the battery to be replaced. The sensor is inside the handle. The filters should catch and trap the oils. My D-Tek picks up the little stuff still not the two-mat. The d-tek was going off in low and the two-mat missed it on a leaking evap I was searching the other day.i know the service life of sensor is around 1000 hours
Lol I’m not arguing with you. My tools are for making me money. I guess I don’t have the time play with old coils. Checking your sensor by turning the DTEK on and filling a junk coil with refrigerant it seems excessive.
It might but I wanted to make sure they worked since I had a leak search the next day I needed them for. The refrigerant was recovered 410 so not costing me anything. That coil I was trying to use for an experiment yet too many micro leaks after sealing the leak in this video
It might be somewhat, or when I only had 25 lbs the leak rate might of been so fractional that I didn’t give it enough time to leak out for the detectors to sniff it. Once I bumped the pressure they were picking it up.the wind does give false readings on many detectors. It’s ok I just wanted to test them out for the first time this year before I needed them on a job.
I do not own an ultrasonic and I am testing my equipment to make sure it works. Not doing a which is better. If I can’t sniff it with my d-tek a cut and cap is done to isolate everything and find out which part is leaking. I am mostly trying to bring the d-tek back to life I just need to order a new battery
I have been using a Ultrasonic for about 19 years with excellent results. When I find a system flat I pressure system up to 250 PSI with nitrogen and Ultrasonic goes to work. I have at least 8 electronic sniffer type leak detectors including a Bacarach H-10 PRO. I also have a UV Light kit to use with UV dye as well. The Ultrasonic is my favorite for refrigerant leaks.