Testing of 7 Top Rope Solo Climbing Devices - 3 FAIL !!

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I think it was important to get the information out there about the Trango Vergo, Trango Cinch and the Kong Back-Up. In my opinion, there are better devices out there. At least users have to know that they will probably fail more than some other devices. All rope grabs presented in this video can fail if they get caught between the climber's legs closed tight. The bottom line is: use a backup! (not the Kong Back-Up). Hope you like my review! Thanks!
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0:00 Introduction
1:39 Trango Vergo
3:06 Trango Cinch
3:44 TAZ LOV
4:15 Kong Backup
8:45 Camp Goblin
9:49 DMM Buddy 100
12:12 Climbing Technology Easy Move
13:14 Conclusion
Find my Rope Solo online courses here:
blissclimbing.com/en/online-c...
Get the Kong Back-Up here: www.mapleleafropes.com/store/...
Get the TAZ LOV3 here: www.mapleleafropes.com/store/...
Music:
Circus Waltz - Silent Film Light by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
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Artist: incompetech.com/

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Опубликовано:

20 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 135

@jaredrobinson3019 2 года назад

“Climbers dead. This is not very good” 🤣 so funny. I love this video. Thanks for doing all of these tests.

@fernandosanz4422 2 года назад

Thank you for all the thought you put in your videos. It makes our climbing so much safer, plus endless discussions about safety in the post climbing beer sessions. Excellent work

@simonh3891 2 года назад

Thank you for your videos! Also thank you for putting that information out for people who (yet) can't afford your course. I believe it's worth every penny!

@z1522 Год назад

Thanks. You are one of the few producing videos showing what everyone needs to do - seek out all the weaknesses and ways techniques and devices can malfunction instead of raving about every new gizmo. Strange things do happen; I know a person whose rappel rope came unclipped from the single non-locking anchor (they caught their fall by grabbing the nearby haul line, severely burning their hands); another had their top carabiner break, when it oscillated the gate open in a long fall. Two more died when their belay anchor was ripped off the wall in a likely factor two fall onto the belayer. Few experience the forces long falls can generate, becoming complacent over time and nonchalant about how bombproof anchors really need to be. If there is a way some device might fail, eventually it will, and knowing how to avoid or work around its weak points is essential, before that happens.

@Stewart.george 2 года назад

Great video explaining various issues with somewhat similar devices. I TRS with a TAZ LOV2 and a CT Roll and Lock as my back up which I find extremely comfortable.

@ripperkon 2 года назад

Thank you for that amazing video, again 💪🏻 Keep it up.

@kennyking6325 Год назад

Wow, I see I have an ascender that fails your test. A real eye opener! Thank you

@telejayanderson 2 года назад

Thanks Yann. I use the Kong Backup above a Lov2. I will mess around with my setup and see if I can get it to move into the position you show. I use a chest harness - the locker on the Kong is also going through both loops of the chest harness. I don't think it can rotate onto the top of the Kong. Will update you and send a photo when I have it out next.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

Absolutely would love to see your rig it sounds like something else!! Thanks for this!!

@DaveB1 2 года назад

good video - in your opinion which is the best bvack up to work with the taz (the love 3 seems excellent)

@cemlpc 2 года назад

Thanks for the video. Great as usual. I TRS with the Trango Vergo. I am aware of the failure mode, same happened back with the Grigri 1 mod. Nevertheless I consider rather manageable the risk in the real world in my case: (1) I use a chest harness tied to a 1.5mm lanyward tied to the axis of the Trango Vergo lever (blocking the binner from going over the lever easily) (2) I use an HMS carabiner with the bar preventing cross loading. In the carabiner I insert rubber limiters or just tie it with tape to the Vergo, reducing the possible travel/slack of the device-carabiner connection.. With (1) and (2) I do not believe the wrong positioning over the lever that blocks the cam. (3) I have a Petzl Micro Traxion (or a CT roll and lock) below the Trango Vergo. This is the backup. I never had the backup actioning and quite do not see it happening. Disclaimer: climbing is dangerous and I am not a professional guide. I do not recommend TRS.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

1+2+3 sounds like it is keeping you safe! Recently I tested all connectors with all devices. Found out only the BD gridlock "upside-down" makes it impossible for the Vergo to load "wrong".... If you can test on your side and let me know your results! Cheers!

@cemlpc 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yann thanks for the reply. I feel much better by knowing your expert opinion. But I thought I could do better setup. I will try over the weekend other connectors including the BD gridlock you suggested, the Beal Orient Express, and the Mammut Smart HMS. I nevertheless wanted to know your opinion of a stainless steel UIAA cert 8mm Maillon with the Salewa Maillon Twist Lock? Both will cost CAD $ 10 and weights 80g? Because of the smaller size, the increased KN, and the positioning and screw check advantages provided by the Salewa gadget, I believe this not only enable this setup for TRS but entirely eliminates the failure on the Trango Vergo. Do you concur?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@cemlpc An 8mm maillon is absolutely king here! Because it is steel and I don't see a problem: I believe you could skip the "Salewa Maillon Twist Lock". You can try with and without it and see how it goes for you. It should be very very good. Let me know your experience please! It is always different "theory" vs "practice"... It can only be validated in the field!

@cemlpc 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I could not resist and went Trad climbing. Promise I will try and let you know. Merci pour le conseil!

@jordano2009 Год назад

I use the petzl shunt + the black diamond gridlock carabiner, the smaller hole in the carabiner is in the hole in the shunt! I never had any problems. 🤝🏻🇧🇷

@abrickwalll 3 месяца назад

The fact that the Vergo can fail like that is such an obvious oversight and it's shocking that Trango doesn't ship it with a carabiner that prevents this. I find it to be almost the perfect belay device when paired with something like the BD gridlock with the device in the small loop. I haven't been able to get it to jam at all when using the gridlock that way.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 3 месяца назад

I agree I came to the same conclusion and used the Trango Vergo with the small loop of the BD Gridlock! Thanks for your feedback!!

@elilivezey7884 2 года назад

great work thanks for uploading! why did you decide to not include the petzl micro traxion?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

I mainly show what is dangerous on my RU-vid channel. I mainly show what I recommend and what is safe in my online courses: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ Do you see where this is going? The Micro Traxion is a hell of a good TRS device! Pretty hard to make it fail. (but not impossible: use a backup and buy my courses! :-) ) Note that none of the devices I show here have teeth.

@elilivezey7884 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I do see! Thank you for your reply! I'll look in to those courses

@ButterBallTheOpossum 2 года назад

What do you think of the rescucender for top rope solo? I usually use that and a petzl traxion.

@jeffreysanders1509 3 месяца назад

Wow. Incredible content. Have you tested the Micro Traxion with the Petzl Sm’D Auto Locker for top rope solo? (I have a few extra Sm’Ds and would rather not spend extra money if they are safe and suitable.). What about a Sm’D with the Rollnlock? Both seem to work okay, but would love your opinion. Thanks!

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 3 месяца назад

Thanks! I tested 65 connectors. Petzl Sm’D Auto Lock is NOT one of them. I only own the screw lock version sorry. You can get access to 1200+ devices/connectors pairings through my online courses or my patreon. blissclimbing.com/en/ Also I published a way to make most connectors safer for the topic we discuss. Also courses or my patreon. BR!

@krzysztofkaminski5977 2 года назад

In my opinion the best way to avoid twisting device similar to CT Easy move, Goblin and also Petzl Shunt on carabiner is to use one or two Petzl Tanga rubber rings on carabiner (does not work good if cross section of carabiner is too small). For devices like Singing Rock Locker the hole for connector is bigger and Tanga could block fall arrest device in bad direction and it will fail to catch. In my opinion it will be good to use 1 or 2 mm cord fastened with double fisherman"s on side without gate on carabiner and with overhand knot on a bight on the gate side. Moreover it will be good to minimize the slippage of cord on the non gate side with Tanga. This solution is easy to make and should stop unwanted movements and twisting of device.

@jordano2009 Год назад

I use the petzl shunt + the black diamond gridlock carabiner, the smaller hole in the carabiner is in the hole in the shunt! I never had any problems. 🤝🏻🇧🇷

@olepetersen9610 6 месяцев назад

Hi awsome that you answer so many of the questions you get! Why didn't you test the rollnlock? And what do you think of a rollnlock held up with a cest harness above a micro traction, both of them being on the same strand?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 6 месяцев назад

A RollNLock would not have failed that way. I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on this topic. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I like to refer to my complete online courses. My reasons are the following: -It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems -I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions: -An in-person course (blissclimbing-com.translate.goog/fr/formations/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en) -An online course (blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/) -A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) (www.patreon.com/blissclimbing) I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!!

@escaladaseguraamimanera3621 2 года назад

thank you very much for the info

@LucScheffers 2 года назад

Hi Yann, some thoughts seeing your great video. None of the gear used is designed for soloing. It could be an idea, since you and your viewers have much solo experience to make a list of must have specs for a device. Like a Camp Goblin is a fine designed device, might me good for solo, it should be used with a steel carabiner, but for rope acces it fails because it either sticks to the rope, (does not follow, require manual lifting) or falls down, (dragging) which creates a fall a factor 2 fall. For testing, man you need a drop tower:)) 25kg on a rocker might hold, 85kg on a rocker sometimes it will stop, jump up, by the much greater rope stretch than semi static, is released again, falls 2 meters grabs again etc.

@alimcmellon7130 9 месяцев назад

I'd like to see a video of your back up set up. I use a TazLov on its own but am considering using another device as a back up.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 8 месяцев назад

Thanks for contacting me about your rope solo questions! I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on this topic. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I do not answer questions in private. My reasons are the following: -It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems -I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions: -An in-person course (blissclimbing-com.translate.goog/fr/formations/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en) -An online course (blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/) -A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) (www.patreon.com/blissclimbing) I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!!

@realrocksrhyming8910 7 месяцев назад

I have had great success with a grigri for TRS and a weight at the bottom. I use double length sling as a chest harness with the X on my back. I put one side of the sling in the carabiner, then the put on the grigri, and then the other sling so that the chest harness holds the grigri's carabiner upright. I like that it engages immediately. I have fallen probably a hundred times on the grigri and never once had an issue. Cons are its difficult to pull slack if tying a backup knot, or trying to clean an anchor, and extremely overhanging routes are almost out of the question. I would have to make that call. But I have an idea regarding LRS When I was doing LRS, I wrapped a small piece of string around the rivet that holds the protective plate to the device, put a loop in it, and attached a small carabiner which would then connect to my double length chest harness. The lever would be on my right in this orientation. Then I would us a progress capture to maintain the slack loop. When I was doing test falls, I noticed my slack would be pulled out, but the friction from the progress capture would engage the grigri's cam. I have also heard-maintaining a large slack loop would also be enough weight to engage the grigri-I do not like this, and I dont think putting a hole through my grigri would solve this issue. I had an idea for a system in which I use a backpack with a flaked rope and then something to "pinch" the rope as it feeds out( it would feel similar to rope drag), so that there is resistance on the grigri-so much that it would engage the cam in the event of a fall-while minimizing the amount of slack between the bag and the grigri. What are your thoughts?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 7 месяцев назад

Lots of possibilities!! Whatever system, use a backup!! The grigri is not designed for rope solo and it has failed many times on people in all rope solo configurations. Thanks for contacting me about your rope solo questions! I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on this topic. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I do not answer questions in private. My reasons are the following: -It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems -I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions: -An in-person course (blissclimbing-com.translate.goog/fr/formations/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en) -An online course (blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/) -A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) (www.patreon.com/blissclimbing) I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!!

@toddmulligan2609 2 года назад

jeez i'm halfway through and so far i think you need to fall straight! here for the easy move.. dang that part was short. bought it for work on my steep roof, also i have been wanting to go to a short local crag and practice jumaring... I think the easy move on a second rope would be a good idea

@The_Fit_ness_monster 2 года назад

I use the Kong backup attached to my bridge and backed up with a Michoacán and I have a CT quick roll with an aider and I SRT with it, I’m 172# and it holds beautifully.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

Do you always use a Kong ovalone with the Kong Back Up? What is a Michoacan? 172lbs? Cheers!!

@The_Fit_ness_monster 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing no, i use a black diamond rocklock or my kong xl D screwlock, i use it to srt or drt up a tree to hunting height between 15-35’, my bodyweight tension is always pulling downward so it will never experience the scenario you showed but thats good to know. And yes 172 lbs. michoacan is a certain friction hitch, doesnt bite as hard as the prussic and much easier to break and move along the mainline.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@The_Fit_ness_monster Thanks for the light! Happy the Kong Back Up works for you! I recently pull tested many devices and the Kong Back Up was one of the strongest.. The sheath cut at 7.34kN on a 9.8mm rope - with no core strand cut. Device unharmed. Strong results!

@The_Fit_ness_monster 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing awesome to hear, i use it with 11.7mm samson hyperclimb rope. Do you have a video of those pull tests? Im always intrigued by breaking strength videos.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@The_Fit_ness_monster For now, I will be posting all videos in the Top Rope Solo course available here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ I will edit a selection of the most interesting and post on RU-vid. Also I would post to RU-vid all break tests on gear that people will donate!

@samvd9527 2 года назад

What would be the best device for lead soloing? I know the taz lov 2 is engineered for rope access/treework, but can it take dynamic falls to?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

It does… More testing is on the way. There are a total of about 12 systems I recommend, teach and use all in my online course: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/

@henrymackay6724 Год назад

Would love to see you test a shunt for rope solo

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Something like this? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xh5UJNvrLWM.html

@timothybird2850 Год назад

Just a heads up. The kong back up user directions state to only use the provided steel carabiner with the device.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 11 месяцев назад

This is recommendation to follow right there!! Some King Backups are sold on their own with no connector…

@lenylecointre9652 2 года назад

The taz lov2 or lov3 are very good yes but are you descending with only that device ? The handle release the rope realy fast and esay, I thing its dangerous for the rappel. If you need another device the the descend why using a taz ?

@stenlundstrom1652 2 года назад

Would you say the Trango Vergo is safe if you use a quicklink to connect the device? A quicklink is not big enough to twist over the top of the device and jam it open.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

I am not sure it is 100% safe but an 8mm quick link is the safest I found with the Vergo. Definitely the best pairing!!!

@2112kustoms. 11 месяцев назад

I've been using the cinch for years. Never had 1 issue with it. Used it in every way I can think of.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 11 месяцев назад

Be careful out there. Use a backup! (I always recommend a backup as every system can fail)

@2112kustoms. 11 месяцев назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I tie knots, or use a second device. About 98% of it use is belaying.

@autohog Год назад

Hello, may I ask, where did your drop test of the Petzl Zigzag and Akimbo go?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Never touched the zig zag and akimbo in my life… It must be someone else’s video you are thinking about! Thanks for thinking about me!

@largeformatlandscape 2 года назад

Hi Yann - what is the failure mode if it catches between your legs if the device has no external handle (e.g. DMM Buddy 100). It looks like there would be nothing to 'squeeze' or 'catch'. Is it because you can turn it upside down and lock it?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

With the Camp Goblin for example, the device has to be free of "floating" upward while you are falling so it catches reliably. If the device is between your squeezed legs, you can "drag" the device along the rope and make it slide "forever". I have never seen a failure that way but with reinforced pants I am willing to live-test it and show it on RU-vid!! Any remaining question?

@largeformatlandscape 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Ah I see - it's a geometry thing - if it holds it's "draging up" position, it doesn't bind at all. Hopefully there will be enough drag in the down direction to escape from legs... Interesting one though! Make the tether short enough so it can't get between legs?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@largeformatlandscape "Make the tether short enough" Exactly my thinking! Short and compatible. Very very short (Petzl Ring Open + 8mm maillon can be a great option with Camp Goblin)

@MizunoIronMan 3 месяца назад

Respect the content, however I have seen you review the TAZ LOV 3 and say that 'it is possible' when talking about the front plate opening by something pressing then button. This would be a very similar scenario to what you are demonstrating here Trango Cinch or Vergo , possible but unlikely.

@suezix8689 2 года назад

You've probably done it elsewhere, but does the MT fail in the same way? That's my primary, hence my interested question... (I do use a cordelette to keep the device in the up position though)

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

None of the "toothed" devices will fail that way. The Petzl Micro Traxion will typically fail if the toothed cam is locked in the open position for some reason (user error or weird thing during the climb) AND will fail if an object (a cordelette or bit of fabric) gets caught between the teeth and the rope. It can also be damage in some weird scenarios.

@suezix8689 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing good points. yes, i do check manically that the metal thing with the teeth is always on the rope, not hovering over it. Especially since getting the MT off the rope at the anchors sometimes involves having to lift the teeth off the rope.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@suezix8689 Thanks 😃

@mountaineer5596 2 года назад

Good video, thank you. Can you do a review of the DMM Buddy?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

Do you use the DMM buddy? How does it work for you? Or else: what do you currently use and what do you do with it exactly? Thanks!

@mountaineer5596 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I have a DMM Buddy, but I have not used it yet. I plan to use it for solo top rope this week. I can let you know how it goes. I have used the Rock Exotica/Wren Soloist to top rope solo. It was very good. I always used a chest harness with it. I sold it. Some regret about selling it.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@mountaineer5596 Will you have a backup with the DMM Buddy? Yes the Soloist is a good device. But I prefer the LOV3. With the good setup I believe it is better overall than the Soloist. Especially for TRS only, to rappel, not to say if you go to rescue someone...

@mountaineer5596 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I have the newer Petzl Rescucender for backup. I intend to place the Rescucender above the DMM Buddy so that it will go taught after the Buddy goes taught. I’m careful enough so that I will also put overhand-on-a-bite knots in the rope below me as I climb the top rope. I can tie these with one hand.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@mountaineer5596 I never recommend 2 smooth devices. At least 1 should have teeth. Because if the top device fails, it can make the bottom one fail easy! Or do you use 2 ropes? Also I do not like the new Rescucender: never found a reliable way of using it...

@jordano2009 Год назад

I use the petzl shunt + the black diamond gridlock carabiner, the smaller hole in the carabiner is in the hole in the shunt! I never had any problems. 🤝🏻🇧🇷

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Petzl Shunt don't need a bad connector to be unsafe: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xh5UJNvrLWM.html . Also your "I never had any problems." I hear this all the time. It is called "survival bias" and a very interesting article is on wiki here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Survivorship_bias . The conclusion is we have to NOT look at what healthy people use but rather look at what injured people use. Please injured people: reach to me so I can share your mistakes (anonymously is an option) and inform rope solo climbers and hopefully save some from injury.

@jonnes__4657 11 месяцев назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Correct, that is called falsification of the device, as you tried in the GOOD video! We never know anything, if it worked correct many times in practice (verification). .

@quoikoi Год назад

Tout les dispositifs sont compatibles entre 10 et 11 mm. Ferais tu confiance avec 9,6/9,8mm ?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Il y a toujours un doute! Dans tous les systèmes de solo (en tête et sur corde fixe), je recommande un backup. Je connais mieux le Goblin et le LOV et oui: je leur fait confiance à 9.5mm. Toujours avec un backup cependant! Pour le Kong Backup et le DMM Buddy 100, j'aimerais les tester plus...

@StephaneDubois-ie3tb Год назад

Hi, Thanks for your videos. I was wondering if the TAZ devices can be used for belaying a partner. I don't see why it wouldn't work but I cannot find a single video of this and I don't think it is indeed to be use for that. Have you tried it? Is it ok?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

The LOV2 and LOV3 are certified for EN 15151-1 use. Like a grigri. Assisted belay device. So yes it is ok! Now I don't remember trying it to belay a partner for 3 reasons: 1- I rarely climb with a partner 2- The LOV is 370g vs Grigri at 175g so the LOV is not my goto 3- I have a bad memory for this... But not that if I was going on a rescue or any hardcore situation I would reach for my LOV right away! Makes sense?

@StephaneDubois-ie3tb Год назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thanks for the detailed and fast answer. I would love to see a test about it, if it is similar to a Grigri I don't really see a big issue with the weight (for sport climbing i mean). I way more curious about how smooth and safe is it when belaying. I am definitely thinking about buying a TAZ and I would find it a great + if it can be a smooth assisted belay on top of being (one of) the best for TRS. When/if I cross the bridge of TRS i will probably take your course in order to have the most knowledge. Thank again work all your work. Take care

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

@@StephaneDubois-ie3tb Thanks!! I would love to know if people get to belay with the LOV. If people have dropped climbers with a grigri, I would be worried that more people drop climbers with the LOV because the rope path is straight in the LOV. So if you maintain it in open position, I guess the rope will slip through VERY easily!! But as soon as you grab the dead side of the rope, the LOV will rotate and grab I have no doubt! Thanks for your kindness 🙂

@allenshipman 7 месяцев назад

What rope and size are you testing with??

@christopherleachman5903 Год назад

Have a device like the easy move. Ushba, made in russia. Old thing I had for about 20 years. Scary thing, and something your drop these wont show, is that if you grab the rope above the device in a fall, it can prevent it from locking. Let go and it'll lock, but not after you got some nice rope burn. Scary as F. Never use mine without a backup!

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Yes! I would love to try a Ushba. They look so similar to the uAscend!!

@clintflicker2645 4 месяца назад

Did not hear what diameter rope you're using for this test. I'm considering using a DMM Buddy as a backup to my LRS set up. I would like to use a 10mm rope, but note that the Buddy specs are for 10.5 to 11.5mm.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 4 месяца назад

The red rope is a Petzl 9.8 more than a few years old. Are you a member of the TRS goup on Facebook to share your setup before you commit to it? Cheers!

@clintflicker2645 4 месяца назад

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Thanks Yann. I am a member of the FB group. I intend to replicate Gavin Cytlau's method from 2021. Set up includes Gri1 on a Maillon (no chest harness). Then a Buddy for backup with a Micro Traxion clipped into the Buddy for the cache loop. I'll cinch the Buddy and MT with 60cm 8mm dyneema close to the front of the waistband of my harness.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 4 месяца назад

@@clintflicker2645 would be nice to have a second opinion on it yes!!! 👏

@TheOKayStonemaster 2 года назад

On the Kong back up did it make a difference if you had it switched to omnidirectional or monodirectional

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

I believe it is possible to make it fail with the same “mechanism”. There will be some friction added but the device can fail in the same way.

@TheOKayStonemaster 2 года назад

Good to know I'm a rope access worker and use a kong backup on occasion for rebelays and such might add a little electrical tape to the biner so it can't travel down the spine and cross load so easily... by the way us rope swingers think you're badass

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@TheOKayStonemaster Thanks for the comment! Who are rope swingers? If you look in the CT Easy Speed manual, they tell you about using an "anti-crossing string". I believe Kong Back-Up users should also use an "anti-crossing string" or some tape / rubber band on the harness side of the connector connecting the Kong Back-Up.

@TheOKayStonemaster 2 года назад

Rope swingers are what other industries call rope access guys lol😁

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@TheOKayStonemaster 😀😀😀 I am often a rope swinger when climbing too LOL

@truthdefenders- Год назад

I would like have you spend more time explaining your preferred device and going over the reasons more.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Thanks for your comments! Thanks for contacting me about your rope solo questions! I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on this topic. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I do not answer questions in private. My reasons are the following: -It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems -I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions: -An in-person course forms.gle/wZtGTwwRTLwpdSwW6 -An online course (broken website - should be here tomorrow) -A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) www.patreon.com/blissclimbing I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!!

@christianhall5904 Год назад

Look at ascenders. I use two (rope man 2 and microtraction) and have taken a lot of falls with no issues.

@trollmcclure1884 Год назад

how can you recommend a toothed device to catch falls? It destroys the rope.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

You mean TR falls or Lead falls?

@trollmcclure1884 Год назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing any falls. I dont even like to use a jumar

@jaredhesselbein7429 Год назад

I use camp lift and minitrax

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Do you mean the micro traxion? The Mini is fine but typically less safe and less enjoyable...

@PathofCultivation 2 месяца назад

What about the nanotraxion?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 месяца назад

You wonder if it can fail or not? It can fail… Can you think a way how? (Always use a backup!! Never trust your life to a single tool)

@Eddiep80 2 года назад

I don’t understand why no one uses the asap lock.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

I broke a Petrzl ASAP in a very very mild fall on a dynamic rope. No screamer. Today it is recommended only on a semi-static rope and only with a ASAP'sorber screamer (if I remember well). I don't recommend it. But please let me know your experience with it!

@Eddiep80 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Oh wow! Well I use an ASAP lock for work all the time accompanied by an ID. But i’ve never fallen on my Asap. So far so good for me. but as long as it doesn’t come off the rope i’m happy if it breaks. but at 300 bucks it should be bulletproof

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@Eddiep80 if you test it I would love to know about the outcome!!

@swedeson6188 2 года назад

And thats why you use a back up..

@gaf5098 Год назад

So you're using a device out of spec with a carabiner not suitable for belaying and you're wondering why the setup fails?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

Can you put me in context of what you report? What device? What connector? Thanks!

@jonnes__4657 11 месяцев назад

🗽 Use a Micro Traxion from Petzl... but it is not for falling, it's for holding you in the position. Falling is always a problem if the stopping is not dynamically !!! ☝ .

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 11 месяцев назад

Ok!

@Relic_of_You 2 года назад

Camp Lift above a microtrax is the way to go

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

See here for my take on the Lift: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PsCF8kw5UQI.html ... There IS a better device! (at least one 😉 )

@wolverinekut 2 года назад

😎👍🔥💯

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

By the way: only one Climbing Technology Easy Move left where I got it: coastropes.ca/products/climbing-technology-easy-move ... ALSO: about the Kong Back-Up: I am 99% sure it can fail with this recommended connector: www.kong.it/en/product/ovalone-carbon-screw-sleeve/ I don't see why there would be a difference! Would someone who owns it be able to make it fail for me and inform me? Thanks!!!

@DrewNorthup 2 года назад

The recommended carabiner is not one with a straight non-gate side. That will change how likely it is to be stable in the twisted configuration. Besides, it is not designed to be used in a way that directly connects it to a climbing-style harness (where cross-loading is more likely). They attempt to make that clear in the manual.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 2 года назад

@@DrewNorthup for what device?

@DrewNorthup 2 года назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing The only one for which you referenced a recommended carabiner: the Kong one.

@jansveen Год назад

So go for a prusik. Stop this f... equipment madness. You inspire people to consume even more.

@YannCamusBlissClimbing Год назад

I don’t recommend prusiks for TRS and LRS by the way. Prusiks are good for tree work, makeshift ascenders for self-rescue, third hand in a rappel. People like to buy gear. But really all the pointers you need for TRS and LRS efficiently while managing the risks are in my online courses. Chances are you already own what you need to TRS or LRS in a reasonable way!! blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ Do you use prusiks for TRS climbing?

@georgebazyliszek8718 2 года назад

Naciągane....

@brutalxmurderr 8 месяцев назад

So which device does he think is better ?

@YannCamusBlissClimbing 8 месяцев назад

So between the 7 devices presented here, my favorite device is hands down the LOV. I use it mainly for rope access, rescues and top rope solo (TRS). Makes sense?

@brutalxmurderr 8 месяцев назад

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I 'll come home , translate what you wrote and answer you 😊😊😊