All you "master machinists" should know this, but no one has pointed it out yet so I'll take the time to do so. However, you should keep in mind, I only have about 15 years experience in metal work. This lathe isn't as bad as a lot of folks make it out to be, so I'll start from the obvious and work on. It's a "mini" lathe and is not designed to do production runs. The "monkey metal" or to you "AVE" fans "chinesium," performs its job perfectly well. The sole purpose of the metal ways and what not are to provide rigidity for machining metals WITHIN its intended range. That does not mean you can chuck up a 6" billet of steel round stock and hog it down to 1" in, let's say, 10 minutes. As this "operator" shows us all the improper way to turn steel, I'll point out that the speeds and feeds he's using are unacceptable for the machine as well as the quality of the tooling. You're not going to be able to take 0.5" passes with this machine on steel, without sacrificing the life of either the machine or the tooling. Now for the, apparently, not so obvious to the majority. The "plastic," very broad and generic term, gears will be just fine for what the machine is designed for and what you are actually paying for. You can't pay $500 and expect top, not even JET, quality. But let's say that you are ok with working with this $500 "toy" and want to push it to the max. Fine. Use the "toy" and machine your own replacement gears out of whatever material your engineering degree says you should. You know, since y'all are expert engineers and tool and die makers. But then again, that's just my $0.02. What do I know?
44 years in metalworking, probably a dozen different shops, and I second your comments. Yup, those that think the "Plastic" gears are no good should just go out, buy the milling cutters they'll need, probably at least three of them, then the indexing fixture for the mill, turn the stock to the required sizes, bore them with any precision, and go the couple hundred hours they'll need. I have three lathes now, four if you want to count the Goodell Pratt, from a 12 x 36 Grizzly to a brand spanking new Microlux 7 x 16, with the HF 9 x 20 in the middle. Nothing really wrong with any of them. Time and patience pays off. Hurry is the mother and father of all screw ups.
Hey Todd, please let me have your experienced comments on Proxon small lathe. The YT video is here. I have seen it & got interested. Please comment on it or email me at geotek_co@yahoo.com
Thanks Gs. Useful when I compare other similar models. Ignore the bs and keep posting- let us know how you feel about the machine after using it for a while. Best regards, Dr D.
I have been using one of these for over 5 yrs. , still runs good . Out of the 'box' they need adjustment . I also use a mini mill bought at the same time as the lathe . These are not heavy duty machines but they get the job done .
@@powderslinger5968 The truth is I'm not a native speaker so for me "test" and "try" are synonymous. Looking at: www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/test say: "When you test something, you try it, for example..."
I ever bought almost the same model lathe, however mine has a digital readout. After adjustments, the lathe did the job I expected. I only cut the soft metal, never tried steel. Actually, this is mini machine although its size is not suitable for a small room. For the price, I really recommend it for a beginner or just DIY simple parts. Mine is installed plastic gears. Spare gears is included. You could replace metal gears easily. The machine is not designed High / Low gear box. This machine has not the thread dial. If 550W is enough, probably H/L gears box is not the issue. I spent $15 for a thread dial and DIY an adapter for the dial to fit the lathe.
I had one. Spend some time before you use it and make adjustments to any slop in any part that not within tolerance. I would suggest checking all the bolts and screws that they are tight. Go thru all the functions and get used to how it works. Learn the feed and speeds in machining on a lathe. Learn the different types of metals, how to identify them using a file or grinding sparks. Learn safety- eye protection, NO GLOVES, no loose clothes or long hair hanging down. Learn the cutting tools and how they are made and constructed- which are better for cutting certain metals- HSS or carbide. These little machines can turn out some very good pieces and are fun to use for small parts- I wish I still had my old one, small parts are better done on this lathe than on my 13x40.
I agree. To many people think these things are good to go out the box. Any of the mini lathes all are Chinese. Sure it should work out the box and it will rough something out. But anyone that’s bought one should fully break it down clean all the packing grease off re oil properly correctly tighten everything to remove the slop. Maybe do some lapping ect on it an really smooth shit out an any of them can be made with a little effort put into it an maybe upgrades over time. Problem is. Even though people know their Chinese. They expect it to work like some fine tuned industrial lathe out the box.
You do know that it's not too smart to spin the Chuck that fast without locking something in the Jaws" right I heard kids in the background including yourself not real safe to do that , but it's a nice cute little lathe , would be a nice accessory to the garage
Apparently this was recorded by a verbally impaired person (aka a mute) Gave absolutely no info on lathe, where it was purchased, cost, etc. Looks a lot like the ones sold by Harbor Freight, Grizzly, etc. Chinese made, plastic gears in head, sealed ball bearings on spindle, extremely poor quality steel in shafts and spindle. If you want to have a toy to play with these are fine. Basically a throw away machine when they break, not worth repair cost, just buy another. One of the best buys for hobby metal workers is the Grizzly G4000. Nice lathe, tapered roller bearings that can be lubed, convenient oilers, altogether a nice machine for the money. cost is currently around $1600 but well worth it. BTW I am not a hobby metalworker but am a retired master machinist with 38 years under my belt. I do know a few things LOL
Never used it or tried it out. However the old version of the G4015 was a bit too small in my opinion and the new version has almost 3 3/4 more capacity. My only issue with machines of this type is that by trying to combine two completely different machining operations into one small machine you must inevitably lose something along the way. Again this is a personal opinion. I have a Bridgeport vertical milling machine that I bought from a shop that was closing with 2-axis digital readout, vise, superspacer, and dividing head with tailstock, plus full set of colletts for under $3000. I do gunsmithing and need the extra heft and precision. Also my personal lathe is a 10 X 48 geared head South Bend with DRO. I guess I'm picky because I did this for a living for many years.
William Styers....I hate videos where the makers flap their lips all the time. What's he suppose to run his gums about? He's not the engineer. He's taking a look at it for the first time like everyone else. As for where he bought it, use your fingers. Only took me 90 seconds and I can't even type. You follow up as though you know everything about this machine. Why don't you go make your own stupid video and you can run your mouth all you want?
Even worse than redundant commentary is "music". This has neither. I just want a lathe to make small brass steam fittings and such, this would do the job.
I just got this model. I have enough "prior experience" to be dangerous. I bought this with the knowledge that I will have to beef up the machine. I will have to make a degree wheel using the lathe and either buy metal gears. Or turn my own gears and broach the gear teeth the hard way using the lathe or buy a cutter. Use this tool as a starting point to make itself a better and more manageable machine. Quick change adjustable tool post is on order. I am using the current POS tool post. I had the shim it to find center with my bits. Eventually a 4 jaw chuck and better head stock bearings. I bought this to do small scale hobby items. Make a few brass shotgun shells, turn out a few reloading dies, etc. But is was not purchased with the illusion if it being a high end turn key ready machine.
Sprawdź jakie ma bicie, czy stożek ciągnie, jak wymiary trzyma. Tak to możesz sprawdzać jak nie robisz detali współpracujących, a tylko takie które mają ładnie wyglądać. Fajny film, pozdro
It would have been very helpful if you had cleaned up the bar, measured it and then moved the table in 1 thou, 5 thou and 10 thou (according to the dial) then measured the bar to see if it cut anywhere near those sizes. apart from that it looked like it needed a good oiling.
They are a good lathe, depending what you want to turn, make sure you adjust the gigs. It also needs to be on a sturdy bench, otherwise they can sit twisted, and you will never get the run out true.
I bought almost the same machine here in South Africa. It has steel gears all the way and I am very satisfied with what I paid for. I can machine to .025 on crappy mild steel and that is good enough for me. Keep in mind is is a MINI lathe so don't expect to take 2 mm deep cuts with it.
La première règle que l'on apprend quand on veux utiliser un tour à métaux c'est de ne jamais faire tourner le mandrin avec des mors non-serrés! expérience vécue: les mors ont traversés l'atelier!!
actually that looks pretty expensive, i have researched lathes to come up with what i call my tool box lathe. my lathe is from The First Tool, Shenzhen Zhouyu Intelligent Technology Co, LTD, model Big Power 60W Mini Metal Lathe # TZ20002M , plus a drill chuck for the tail stock, D001, cost $265;; then for lathe accuracy i replaced the chuck with a more precise one from The Tool Post, Unit 7 Hawksworth, Soutmead Industral Park, Didcot Oxfordshire, UK, model MM50 Micro Chuck threaded M12 x1 three jaw , cost $41;; had to notch the lathe bed frame so the chuck jaws would spin freely but now i have a table top lathe that i can put in a tool box for a little over $300 and 5 lbs.
The one time I did it it missed me because I was about 7 years old and it was a big lathe....I had a 8x8 slab used as a block for trucks to stand on but had to jump down to start the lathe spinning......I still got a nasty lump tho as it whizzed over my head straight thru the rear window of my old mans pride and joy.
Harald Pettesen yeah he had a vk½ Holden commodore which now isn't worth much but then it was only a few years old and he paid 10k cash for it like a month earlier. I deserved it....he had told me at least a thousand times lol
Harald Pettesen my dad was a kind man as well, but I was a little shit, if he hadn't given me a whoopup every now and then I'd probably be a dumb f#&k in jail by now. The lessons I never forgot were the ones taught by the belt lol. I was never abused just disciplined appropriately. I'm a firm believer in physical discipline..... Creates strong responsible adults....I have mates who's parents did the " never smack and I'm your friend ideology " they're weak usually not very smart either.
A new or shipped lathe or any precision machine MUST be cleaned, surfaces de-burred/verified, gears adjusted, spindle checked, and everything lubricated BEFORE even plugging it in. This lathe was likely compromised by not doing so before actually trying to use it. There is so much good information out here about the right way to set up a machine that today, it is un-thinkable anyone would not do that prior to using a machine.
We've had a very similar one for several months and it has serviced us very well. One thing to remember is they are "assembled" but not "tuned" and this is important. Think about it! A manufacturer could not afford to have them tuned as it takes a good while. We disassembled ours and very carefully assembled with proper lubrication and have been able to make very impressive pieces. The "tuning" is very important. They will do a lot without such but precision is available such as making threaded pieces for camera lenses. They will do it but bring your lunch as it requires patience and attention to detail. Best of luck.
looks that way but its not, but i think that hes put the rubber vibration rings between the oil catch tray (and back) and the lathe bed, as the rear of the head stock shakes too, mind that these cheap lathes are accurate, they are not precision, its hobby grade for the garden shed
Kjell Ringström He took an agressive cut at high speed. The machine let him know it wasn't happy. You can't expect a 100lb lathe to operate like a 2 ton machine.
I have this machine, it’s chinese and called a Sieg. I have had mine for 30 years, and I tuned it up to run precision. I have bigger machines, now, but this is still in my shop.
No, not exactly 30 years, yet, to the day, I actually bought it in 1990, really cheap at a great price $395, with S&H, included, at the time. I actually had a Taig Mictolathe first, then the SIEG mini-lathe, so, you wanna tell me how long I DIDN’T have the Taig micro-lathe before hand, or do you wanna just accept the fact that I just handed your ass to you?
Sounds like it's about to self destruct straight out of the box, I don't think goggles will suffice on that thing! A full screen might be the way to go,
@@jrsydvl7218 The unimat SL could, with a pretty expensive addition to it. But also, a unimat has less than half the capacity and isn't something you want to work with if you're short on time. Fine little machine that it was, efficient in use it wasn't. And when it comes to price, everything is an addon. Nothing is cheap either.
1/You don’t even care for any safety maybe you careless. 2/ with this kind of speed you need to use coolant,however you did explain you point or your concerns.
Same make? How’d it hold up. I just dove for one yesterday. I’m expecting a complete rare down full on grease cleaning an re-oiling and correctly tightening things ect to prepare it to be the best it can. But how did the bearings hold up, the Chinese computer board any problems with anything. Or has it held up good as is?
Good demonstration. However, id suggests using coolant. Also id recommend facing of your material, centre drilling it to allow you to put a running centre in it to properly secure your material therefore achieved a better and more consistent finish
William Styers, thank you ! You gave us more information than Gs.DIY, who apparently has a speech impediment, and failed to verbally tell us anything about the lathe. !
I am familiar with the change wheels on a lathe but please indicate where the leadscrew is, unless of course it is across the far side of the bed ..? A nice looking job , how much ?
Another vote for some sort of audible description of what's going on rather than just pointing at random things. Maybe do a voice over after shooting the video.
I have one and the first 5 mins of just running it the piece that kept the belt on came off and had to re drill holes in it and got it fixed. Right out of the box the dust shield on the back gets in the way of adjusting the tail stock. I adjusted everthing including the bolt on the tail stock and no luck. I tried bending the dust shield and even ginding a little of the corners. Still have this issue. So i. Going to make a new shield for it
I got mine for like 425 shipped. Over 10 inches i hold about 5 thou.. i think i could improve that by shimming the non adjustable head. Twisting the bed got me closer but not all the way. For the money i cant imagine a cheaper way to get your feet wet and be able to make some real stuff.. ive been cutting 2.25" s7 with no issue down to 1/2 inch shanks.. taking about 35 40 thou a cut... could prolly do 50 without issue. Would have to tighten up the machind aloy
I bought this same 7 x 14 Mini Lathe in November 2017. It was terrible straight outta the crate. I am just now hand scraping all sliding surfaces...it will be good soon.
J Abernathy If you don't have the right tools, you'll just make it worse. Just scraping the ways will correct the mating surfaces but you need to make sure you are parallel to the spindle.
Yes, I agree. I bought the book, Machine Tool Reconditioning and Application of Hand Scraping, circa 1955. I believe I am measuring and scraping flat and parallel to the ways and spindle. I scraped the saddle with .001" tilted down and .001" toward the spindle. The dovetails is where I'm at a stand still...no straight edge to blue-up . I decided to scape all the mating surfaces because despite having the gibs adjusted, everything solid, I could never get a good surface. It was always a "ribbed" finish. I also did the bearing upgrade and changed to all metal gears. Spent more than it is worth but I consider it, as Stephan would say, It's a Chinese machine so it's more like a kit. :) Thanks for the spindle reminder!!
Mine is almost the exact copy I paid $455.oo free shipping from cal. To mi. If you buy loctite every thing that is screwed in. All handles etc. My motor gave me fits. Acted like 100/of a horse power. Took side and front and back covers off. Motor was loose. Would stop at least amount of drilling ect. After 30 days. Be very careful adjust the two studs that keep the belt tight they screw in the motor just a few threads. You can reach over and pressure on motor while righting and use loctite. There are also two bolts above the motor in rear that you can adjust down on the motor. Adjusters front. Snug each one down. Alternating slowly until there is a fare amount of pressure. Don't hurry this and snap a stud out of motor.
It helps to lock the tool post down before you tighten the screws on to the tool holder. But i'm glad to see you know how to work a $2 on and off switch
It's a kit with all the hard work done. You get to finish it. I ran the DC drive til it smoked and then installed a small 3phase motor and VFD driving a jackshaft made from the old DC motor. The nylon high/low gears inside the headstock are a fuse JIC you do something stupid. I'd rather snap one of those inexpensive nylon gears than bend or break something else that's harder to replace. I've never had an issue with the nylon change gears on my 7x14. It's a nice little machine for making bushings and other small parts.
I agree that a lot of Chinese electrics are both badly designed and manufactured but what do you expect for the price. Electrics are easy enough to fix and even good quality 3ph speed inverter modules are not too expensive.
I need a lathe of that size for modeling. Tell me how good this one is and does it have two way carriage and cross stock travel, or only the carriage goes left and right? Thanks. Greetings from Australia.
Mick, hi, it has the functions of a bigger lathe. If you get one, go around it, adjust gibs, ( gibs ! sorry just in case the spelling police are out again ) etc. It should be fine for your use. Had mine about 5 year, no problems with it, I adjusted the gibs, drilled oil holes on the leadscrew bearing blocks, and that has been it. Hope this helps.
Gs.DIY. Ideas. I apologise in advance if for some reason you are unable to but some spoken descriptions of your review of this lathe could really be useful.
No, don't apologize for that , you demonstrated the machine, how it ran and what it sounded like in a short concise video. There are plenty of other videos out there where someone drones on and on ad nauseam to the point that the video becomes unwatchable.
Does anybody know if you can thread standard threads with this machine mine did not come with a Threading dial so how am I supposed to cut threads without one anybody's input
