For blanking off the rear pipe, anything that will seal it up on the top will work. A short bolt that fits the hole will work just fine. Just put an oring or something on it to help with sealing.
Hi Shane, you need to patent those 38 specials for hydraulic testing, you could rebrand them as .38 hydraulic blanking plugs and sell them world wide. As for torque settings I'm with Lance, it's the first click on the elbow, second clicks to tight. but congratulations on the result with the resealed pump thats a big win win, it just shows, have a go, you never know! keep up the brillant work Barry
I've been through the patent process before and I'm not too keen on going though it again, lol. Yes it's a big win for sure! Was NOT expecting to get anywhere near 2000 psi. over 1000 sure, but not 2000. I must have done something right somewhere along the way!
As usual another interesting and well explained video congratulations on managing to save money on a new pump with just a set off seals big thank you I think to everyone who has contributed us is all alike doesn't matter where we come from
Thanks a bunch Jon! We may speak different dialects or entirely different languages, but I love how people can come together and help each other out. Restores some of my faith in humanity 😄 I owe a LOT to many different people, yourself included. Without these people's encouragement and knowledge, I would have never had the courage or understanding to get this done. Thanks to all!
We are not allowed to have guns over here (well we can as part of a club or a farm) but I have a small cup head blot for the test, we used to fit an Australian 2c piece but they are no longer a thing over here. . If the hydraulics are "working" I think just fit the gauge then pull the quadrant on to select up onto relief. This would check the pipework and o rings to the control valve. 3/8" unc bolt around 35ft/lb or when your elbow clicks.
Afterwards I thought about it and figured I could have used a dime or nickel (10c/5c pieces) to blank it off. Good to know it's possible. Didn't think about just using a bolt! Doh, that'd work too I guess. My elbow/wrist clicks and pops aren't quite reliable just yet for torque measurements. Getting close though! 😄 Thanks for the setting!
Uk gun laws are very strict. It would be ni-on impossible to have a spent cartridge laying around. I made an nylon plug. Have not been doing much with tractor lately. How ever I received the new friction washers for the quadrent yesterday. So I may get going again soon. You should get yourself a lathe. I am getting to grips with the Bridgeport and there will be an installation video, coming soon. Thought I was doing well getting 1750 psi from hydraulic pump. Good vid as usual. M 😀
Yeah, I've been pricing out lathes and mills. I'd love to have a mill like your Bridgeport, but I'm actually leaning toward a benchtop mill like the Precision Matthews PM728VT. I want to do a CNC as well and from what I've seen online it's a great candidate for conversion. For a lathe, I'm thinking about just starting out with a cheapo mini-lathe unless I can find a good used proper one. Still looking and trying to figure out what I want to do though. Funds are always the issue!
@@path.of.discovery If you can get a good old lathe as they were built to last. Biggest problem is shipping as they are very heavy. The Bridgeport MK1 i got is 980KG the mk2 is double that weight. M 😀
Good job Shane. I couldn't quite hear but assuming the pump relief valve was screaming, this agrees with the manual that it should open at 2200psi. So all in all, a tip top hydraulic system!
I didn't record it, but I redid the test later because I had a concern the relief valve wasn't opening. Once going I bumped the throttle up a little bit and as the pump output rose to 2300 PSI the relief valve kicked in screaming away. Close enough for me!
Sorry to ask again if already answered. To increase relief valve pressure do u add shims? My valve screams at around 1800psi. Do you know approx how many shims are needed per 100psi increase at all? Thanks
Really like the way you work here, testing the system with a gauge. The real test will be running it longer, to get it nice and warm. Is I possible to connect it up, so that you can have the pressure gauge on permanently? I would love that on mine! Very nice work with the .38 casing! I love fixes like that, proper thinking, and dirt cheap too 👍 Cheers from Denmark 🔧🇩🇰🚜
Thanks a bunch! I ran it today for quite a bit pulling up large old shrubs & bushes in front of the house with a boom. Performed flawlessly! No leaks AND the hydraulics held! I'd been having a problem with the arms just leaking down immediately once the tractor was off and them "hiccuping" when the tractor was running. Those issues are GONE finally! So happy with the outcome of all of this. Thanks for watching!
I really like your show. And it was very helpful. I have a 1210 case. And I am having problems with the hydraulics. I need to know how to. Check the pressure on.
Thanks for watching! I really appreciate the comment! For your 1210, there's a service manual that covers hydraulics on those. Check out the link to the service manual below and click the one for "U. Hydraulic System - Front Mounted Pump - 1200, 1210, 1212, 1410 and 1412 Tractors.pdf" drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B9-7bn5CX9NDZ3pQdDh6M2k0bVk I also have a video that includes more on the manuals if you're interested. The video link should start at the right spot for the manuals discussion: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5nYhhXXpGFw.html
Hi there, thanks for watching! This was my grandfather's tractor and he bought it new back in the late 60's. Our family used it quite extensively for farming, and from what I'm told my grandfather treated it like a bulldozer when he had a blade on the back! I've replaced the tachometer/hour meter since the old one was broken around the same time I had the engine rebuilt about 4 years ago. I have no clue how many hours were on it before that. It's got 164 hours on it since the rebuild.
Hi Shane Marshall here. Do you know what the engine cylinder psi should be on my 996? Tests at Cyl 1, 300psi, cyl, 2 275psi, cyl 3, 275 psi and cylinder 4, 350 psi. I made a fake injector that can bolt on in place of an injector with compression test kit gauge adaptor.
Hey Marshall, sorry for the delay, I've been super busy lately with actual work and family stuff. I don't know what the PSI's should be for the cylinders. I looked in my manuals and can't find it either. Hope you've found out by now!
I think diesel in general are around 300-400psi. Have a vid coming in a few weeks testing the DB engine.Got a tip how to determine if it's the valves or rings from Bundy Bear, Lance. put some oil in the cylinders and if compression go's up rings if not valves. Cheers Shane
