Videos about what I learn and work on. Currently I'm working on refurbishing my David Brown 990 tractor. There'll be a few videos about that. You may also see videos on backyard mechanic work, maybe a review or two, and perhaps some tech related stuff about programming or process improvement using lean/agile principles.
Congratulations on now over 1000 subscribers 👏 yes been a long time but time goes quickly as you get older love your new place and I've got barn envy!!! Love the john deere your get it running but don't paint her she's got perfect platina have you still got your land that you videoed when you fixed your hydraulics?
Looking forward to see the John Deer restoration. 99% chance it starts no problem. That new shed looks good. I'll see if there is any knowledge that I can find here in UK on it. M 😀
Great stuff, I have a 885 with loader and as much as I love it, it is worn out. Great to see how well they work when repaired, I will do the same sometime soon.
Good job man i know all about david browns tractors but zetor tractors are a way easier to get air out of fuel system sometines no need to open bleed screw just pump air out and start and zetor were ahead of their time with all standard extras
I live in the village where David Brown tractors were made. They are simple to work on, reliable and long lasting. Unlike modern tractors the electrics are basic. Good luck with your project, I doubt that you will have many problems!👍🇬🇧
What a superb closeup video, so helpful. Thanks Shane. My 990's quandrant lever is buckling and not moving easily..so it's strip it down time, and probably new washer tome time!
Hello can you please help me please but im having same problem but keep bleeding it keeps on getting airlock go round tightin everything done all injetors everything to do with fuel keeps happening
Maybe you need a new primer pump. If the rubber diaphragm is cracked, air is going to be pump in the system by the crack in the diaphragm in the primer pump. Just had this problem with my db 995. The engine was always air locked after 30 min. Now that i changed the primer pump, it runs fine
Hi Shane I need to split my 990 between the axle and gear box , do I need to pull the pto housing first ? Or can I split right at the gearbox and rear axle ?
Hi from 🇮🇪 , great video 👏 very clear and detailed. Quick query for you !! We put a front loader on our 996 with the necessary pipe work. The front loader works vise Vera sometimes times (as in , even with a heavy load - as your dropping it will shoot right back up with lever in decent mode) Wondering if you think if any of the valves in you video would be the cause ?
Hi Shean, great video, Wonder if you can help me witha hydralice problem on the lifting arms, I can't see any info on the problem anywhere. Anywa whats happening is when the lifting lever is in the down possition when I start the tractoe the arms come up, after they are up they want go down with lever in down posstion. very irritating, ant idea what is causing this please? Thanks, Ian.
Hello Shane, I appreciate your videos very much. I have had a DB 990 Selectamatic 1973 model for 30 years. I recently loss the Hydraulics on it when for some unknown reason the Intermediate Gear that drives the Hydraulic Pump unscrewed from its housing - no damage it just unscrewed. Your video working with the PTO was invaluable. I accidentally discovered that the "O" on the discharge of the Hydraulic Pump was bad while I was rotating the gear on the pump by hand, I heard and saw a hissing sound from air and oil leaking around the "O" Ring. I have been searching for a 9mm x 3mm CS 90 Durometer "O" ring as per your recommendation. I finally found one but it is not 90 Durometer, and would be concerned about using it. I have obtained a standard replacement from Case-IH Dealer here in Kentucky and will have to use it if I can't find the upgraded ring. Where can I find one? They can be ordered from China on Ebay but who knows what quality they might be. Thanks for the help.
on my 1294 CASE (db engine) filter bolt bleed fuel drips on to oil dip stik at frame. 15:46 fyi my engine has a freeze plug with heater installed near were the fuel line goes up to #1 new lift pump just installed. 🐺
Do you have any info on bleeding the air out of the hydraulics? I can only find vague information. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a 990 selectamic
My name is David Brown and I have 3 David Browns, two 880 selectamatics and a 996. One of the 880's is in rough shape and has a flat tire so I will probably use it for parts, The other 880 needs work on the hydraulics and the 996 runs great and I have had is since 2010. I had a 990 seletamatic in the early nineties when I had a hobby farm and I wish I had not sold it. I grew up in the 60's and 70's working on a dairy farm and the the guy I worked for had Case tractors but the neighbor had a DB.
Hello Shane, Excellent job on this video. I'm currently in the middle of the same job on my DB990 as you did and yours and Barry's video have been very helpful. The Hydraulics suddenly failed while I was working with the tractor. For reason that may forever remain a mystery; the Hyd Pump Intermediate drive gear's mounting shaft back completely out and it and the gear were just laying in the bottom of the casting. The Shaft has right hand thread and that gear turns to the right since the PTO Power mounted gear turns counter clockwise the same as the Engine; so if something had locked up in the gearing the torque would have been in the clockwise (tightening) direction of the threaded intermediate gear's shaft. I'm going to replace the bearing and would like to replace the shaft too because the inside race has done a bit of spinning on the shaft - no much .001" undersized. But of course a new shaft is not available. There is currently a .010" shim between the rear face of the race and the face of the casting that should lock the inside race in place; so I made and added an additional .003" shim; I may add an additional .001" or .002" shim. I will use some Loctite on the thread shaft - probably use Blue but tempted to use Red when I remount the shaft. Like you I also found that the "O" ring on the discharge side of the pump was bad. I discovered it while manually turning the Pump's Gear and I heard a hissing sound. One strange thing was that I did not have a single wrench or socket (metric or otherwise) in my tool box that would fit the four suction pipe flange bolts.
I have been a nurse for over 30 years and by the grace of God saved a few lives. Truth be told , I have not always felt right about many of them as their state was a future of medical interventions. Now , saving a tractor ? I have felt pure joy in every single one of them ! I just purchased a $500 1966 David Brown 770 from a couple at church. Their grandfather passed away years ago. It was sitting in his field for 5 years. The old junker fired up after a few electric wires we twisted and fuel poured everywhere along with two batteries. The hydraulics don't work, the rear wheel wobbles, the other rim is rotted at the valve stem, every oil and filter needs a change. I was thinking of scrapping it. Then I started watching videos like yours and realized I am not the only guy out there that spends $5000 in the value of my time and another $1500 in parts and supplies to restore a $1500 tractor when it's all said and done. Are we fools ? Why do we do this ? I have done this at least 20 times ! Why I ask , Seriously why ???
Why? Because we can, and it's a passion, at least for me. Getting something running again and working makes me happy. Are we fools? Probably! Your comment is simply golden! Thank you very much for watching and I hope you can get that old tractor nursed back to health!
I got most of the o-rings from the Oring Store LLC online. Gaskets I either made from gasket material or sourced from David Brown Parts LTD in England.
A Wonderful Video. I’m in Pennsylvania USA. Grew up on a farm in Ireland. DBs. A 990 & a 1200. Only Tractors he ever used. Fond Memories but should have learned from him. Anyway. I Have a 770A. And a 1212 now. I know I have to do this to the 770. Not sure about the 1212. Now I Know I can do it. Thank You. 🙏. A new cable is one thing I need
I just pulled my bypass valve to find that there wasn't a nylon screen inside, just the washer with tiny hole, cleaned it and put it back in and it runs strong and quick, go figure, I probably do need to get the screen though
Not sure about the 1210's sorry. There's a David Brown tractor Facebook group "David Brown Tractor Club Ltd (Official)" that you could post in to get help on it.
Very nice video, great explanation and I cannot ceased to be amazed on how you manage to learn the names of every single peace! I have a 996 synchro and I've been trying to figure out what is wrong since the pto can lift but not lower the 3 point. It's stucked in place and I tried everything! Any tips?
Hi Shane....I'm having a problem removing my PTO housing cover. It's on a 4600 (gas version of the 880). But, it's just like yours. I've removed the sensor and all the bolts. I've put in two studs. I can get it to wiggle. But, it appears to me that the back plate is stuck (heavily RTV'ed or something) to the PTO housing. I've tried using a chisel (lightly, at this point) to separate the two pieces. Before I start using real force, can you verify I'm not missing anything? I've got two very short videos linked. One shows the bolts removed (am I missing anything?) and the other shows the PTO and back plate stuck together. I'm starting to think air hammer....lol ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IjyaSIyldNM.htmlsi=J9iuofM6ICVFDw8l and ru-vid.comleBsxxCVprE
I can't see that you've missed anything. Have you tried heat yet? The internal pump mounting plate will be held in place with a bolt on top. See the "Wow it's dirty" video on my channel. Shows you what's keeping it in place. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o984fzC7iU8.htmlsi=IrthJy9BTdFud4sL&t=56 Since the internal plate has a bolt at the top, it might be an idea to try to separate the pto housing from there? Maybe try to wiggle in a screw driver or pry bar in at that point and work around? Keep trying to separate, but I don't know if I'd go the route of an air hammer just yet. I see you've got it on a engine lift/leveler. Too much upward pressure may bind it on the studs? Good videos showing it by the way!
@@path.of.discovery I got it loose. With a hand sledge and a block of wood I kept hitting and rocking it side to side and it finally broke loose. Two more questions…1. My PTO shaft tried to come out with mine. Is that normal? I’ve done the requisite internet search but didn’t see anything. 2. Have you ever pulled the pipe going from the filter assembly to the bottom of the hydraulic pump? Part of the reason I pulled mine is because before I bought it there was too much water in the oil and it froze. The ice bent the pipe to the point it broke off the tab on the pipe that keeps it in place in the filter assembly area. I didn’t discover that until after I bought the tractor. Supposedly you can pull the pipe out from the back. No luck so far…. I don’t know if it’s because the pipe is bent or there isn’t enough room. BTW…. My hydraulic pump spun freely. I haven’t opened it up but I’m sure it’s worn out. Thank you for your help and the awesome 990 videos. You need to do some more!
@@captainbillh Yay! Glad it came free. Was it RTV holding it? Hate that stuff now! If you're talking about the main shaft running up into the tractor to the gearbox, I think that's called the Carden shaft. I was reading a few old posts on the forum archive (dbforumarchive.com) and saw a few mentions of being able to remove that shaft from the rear with the pto housing removed. So if the splines on the end of that shaft mating to the innards of the PTO housing were a bit rusty, then I can see how it would want to come out. No, I've never pulled the oil feed pipe from the sump out. I didn't need to on mine, I just poured diesel fuel down it to clean it out a bit. Not sure what you can do here. Maybe find a breaker with a good one or if you can get it free attempt some sort of repair. Yep, at the minimum you'll need a seal kit for that pump (cheap, relatively) or a new pump ($$$$)
@@path.of.discovery it was RTV….they had slathered it on rather thick. The PTO shaft wasn’t rusty….guess it had been there for a long time and didn’t want to come out! I bought a new hydraulic pump but plan on rebuilding the old one. I think it’s worn out….the pump turns very easily by hand. Thank you for all your help. I appreciate your channel.
