I wish I could get some of my coworkers to realize this. Also, properly setting up the saw after blade replacement (ie, blade tension, belt tension, roller position, etc.) 😕
At my high school we got a new jet saw and we have had the blade break twice once because of user error the second one was a bad blade from factor that broke on the welded spot my teacher is more or less a supervisor so he asked me if I would be ok with trying to weld it back together see how I have become pretty good at tig welding thank to TFS for tip very helpful in leaning and understanding tig but I was successfully able to weld it back together until we get our replacement blades ( p.s it take a wail for us to get a new blade due to how our schools systems works he has to let the board of ED know then they order the blade instead of my teacher this makes it take a wail)
This video happen to pop up at the perfect time haha. I just picked up a used Jet HVBS-7mw the other day. My first horizontal band saw and didn't even know you had to break your blade in. Thanks for another great video. Any opinions on my saw? Any advice for a noob? Also what cutting fluid do you perfer? Thank you
How does the thickness of the stock effect the 80~100 inches? What I am thinking is if one cuts ⅛" stock vs. ¾" stock? Do both sizes still dictate 80~100 inches? Thanks for another great video.
Thickness is actually irrelevant. The distance the saw drops will be the amount counted since it cuts from contact to completion regardless of thickness.
@@TheFabricatorSeries I know this is old, but I think it was more of a question because on thicker stock the same distance drop means the blade 'hogs out' more material, which sounds like it should matter. Like if you do those 100 inches drop, but with 10thou shim stock you wouldn't call it broken in, would you?
I was looking into purchasing my first portable band saw. What great info. Unfortunately due to my lack of experience you lost me on one point. I got the half the blade speed. Not sure what you mean by half the production speed. Is that based on the length of the blade? Does that have something to do with the tooth count of the blade? Thanks for taking the time to share your skill and knowledge. Peace
Great tips, but...... yeah there's always one of us out there, right. I was taught that the 100 inches was 100 SQUARE inches of material cross section. So the equivalent of 100 cuts in 1in square bar stock or 25 cuts in 2in square bar stock. I'm open minded and can be convinced otherwise. Blade technology has probably come a long way since my tutelage. Comments welcomed.
How to chose a bandsaw for a general fabrication shop in terms of cutting capacities? Will this Kama EV 996 be enough or do I need more cutting capacity for futureproofing?
Is a similar break in needed for portable band saw blade? I have checked DeWalt owner!s manual and saw blade packaging and neither notes break in recommendation.
I keep a piece of 4" round hot roll with the mill scale ground off around just for breaking in blades. Why 4"? It's both my vice's capacity and my lifting capacity!
My last was a 24/20 which is hard to find. Now I'm on a 22/18 (or something close to that). Just about anything will do the job. It's just up to how much cleanup work you want to do post cut.
This is pretty decent machinery for a small shop. You can search around and find some second hand for a good price. I bought all this from a machine shop that was going out of business.
Really helpful video. I did not even know I had to break in blades: infact I scapped some of them quite ealy. Anyeay I got a question: given that most of my work on the bandsaw is tubing stuff, how do you suggest to break them in. Unfortunately it's an interrupted cut which I don't know if it's ideal for a brand new blade and, it's kinda difficult to estabilish the lenght of cut, maybe I can get away with the perimeter of the tubing that I'm cutting.
The diameter of the tube is the amount it cut from start to finish unless you changed directions or cut at an angle. The rule is only general. Some blades take more time to break in - some take less. Just follow the procedure and keep and eye on the blade.
Thanks for making these videos. I know how long it takes to film, produce and edit them; and it is a lot of work! Question: I am just metal working as a hobby so I am in no hurry to finish my cuts. Would I see longer blade life if I keep the blade speed and feed rate at 1/2 of normal even after the blade is broken it, or is the blade life unrelated to speeds and feeds after it has been broken in?
i doubt it. the idea seems to be to radius the points. once the points are radiused they can go at production rate and speed with little risk of chipping the points. then again, i only just learned this needs to be done.
Man, a real fabricator ain't got time for all that BS. Time is money. We can't be changing a machine all the time. My horizontal bandsaw starts cutting every morning at 5am. And pretty much cuts all day. Unless it's time to change the blade.
hahaha this is totally WRONG. Another example of somebody who just parrots what they read on the internet. Band saw blades do NOT need to be "broken in." What, you want a blade with a rounded, dull tooth? Common sense people. A blade with a rounded edge will not cut efficiently, it WILL generate more heat and shorten blade life. Hey Justin, take 20 brand new blades. Do your "break-in" on 10 of them. Then cut the exact same stock with all the blades, and see how long they last. Total waste of time.
So, you know more about bandsaw blades than the manufacturer? Hard to believe. You break-in the blade so that you don't chip or damage the teeth on it. The end of the teeth should have a small radius on them to withstand faster feed rates (higher pressure). For your education, here's a link to a Starrett publication on breaking in bandsaw blades. www.starrett.com/docs/saw-resources/recommendations.pdf?sfvrsn=2
You are not rounding off teeth by braking in a blade. I've been using band saws over 50 years. Listen, he knows what he is talking about. Brake in your blade as ALL blade manufactures suggest you do, if for no other reason than to hone in the weld joint. I keep around a piece of 1018 round just for such a purpose. Problem here is you don't know what you don't know, and you don't even know that!
