I've been woodworking for quite sometime but I'm brand new to metal work. My son and I just picked up a 4x6 and this video was just the ticket for setting it up. Very similar to my bandsaw but your on this were invaluable. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, I had just changed from a 18 tooth blade to 6 tooth and it was throwing the blade, went right back to zero and adjusted everything as per your video, working now.
I always like to square the fence to the blade with a 12” combination square, put the body against the blade (gently) and the ruler part against the vice jaw. It’s really accurate because the ruler extends across the whole vise jaw, not just a couple inches. Another trick I was taught was with the saw upright and the cover opened, cut a piece of paper into 1” strips in the long direction (with scissors of course, not the bandsaw!). Insert the paper 90 degrees to the blade and rotate the adjustable wheel to pull the paper between it and the blade. Rotate it until the paper comes out the other side of the rotation. If your tracking (wheel) is adjusted right, the paper will have a sharp bend in it . If it’s cut in two, it means the blade is being forced into the wheel flange which wears out both the wheel and blade. If the bend isn’t sharp, the blade needs to be adjusted closer to the flange. As for all the questions about tracking adjustments, nearly everyone of these saws I’ve seen require loosening the bolt closest to the handle, and turning the adjacent bolt in or out to adjust. Then re-tighten the other bolt and recheck with the paper method. These things can be made into really accurate saws, but only through sweat equity!
A dozen years ago I purchased an Enco version of this saw at a yard sale for $40. The seller said he could never get it to perform and had given up on it. Here I am a dozen years later and today was my final effort to get this saw tuned up. Watching this video just might be all I need to get it running. Thanks for sharing.
I just bought a 25yr old neglected saw and have cleaned it up and ready to set it up. Great tips to guide me along the way so thanks for taking the time to do the video!
I have tried the other methods with making a cut, observing the resulting non-square angles in the cut and adjusting. Using a machinists square etc. The 1-2-3 block really did the trick for me. Watched your video yesterday, spent some time fiddling with the saw last night and got it to 1mm off over a 50mm cut. Not perfect, but I will for sure work some more on it! Great video that helped me out with my saw. Thank you!
Excellent breakdown and diagnostic on how these are adjusted and set. I do not own one of these but need to use one only occasionally at my work ... and was having a hard time getting a square cut. Having seen this I'm confident I'll be able to diagnose and adjust the saw to cut more true. Thanks.
Oh Hell Yea!! Very good video Roadking, THAT is how its done, very articulate and concise as to how all the finite adjustments are made. This video is very useful and I highly recommend this one be shared as a "How To". Great job Roadking! I was first to like this video.
Great vid! Am buying a 1969 Craftsman which needs a little work, but after a cleaning and applying this procedure I'm betting it will run like a champ!
Thanks for posting. I have an Enco version of your saw and it has cut square for 20 years.....until recently. I did all the adjustments I could think of but to no avail. I didn't realize, until I watched your video, that one of the guide bearings has a cam action. I'm going to look again armed with this knowledge. Thanks for taking the time!
Just wanted to tell you a friend gave me a saw exactly in this condition. Just needed a little TLC. I had no idea how to true or square up the blade. Thank you so much!!!!
Just want to say thank you for a great video that really helped me out. You video explained exactly what I was looking for and terms that I understand. I hope to get my saw tuned in tomorrow now that I know how to adjust it. The book did not help at all. I see that the thanks are a few years late for you just the info is great for me today.
Hard pressed to find many people these days that call their metal straight edge a scale or line gauge. I needed this reminder, haven't used one of these since I was a kid, but about to buy one.
I have been using that same MSC bandsaw over 20 years now. I never had a problem with it except for cheap blades. You get what you pay for. I use Olsen blades, I never had any good luck with any of the HF blades. It is my number one metal cutting tool. I use it as much in the vertical position as I do horizontal. The vertical table that came with it works fine, but most ot the time I just use the guide foot plate as is.
Great video. You and the guys are great together. Its rare now days to see people getting together on a regular basis having fun and enjoying a hobby together that they like. I may not comment much but watch and like all your vids. Whish i lived closer would like to meet you and the gang. Keep up the great videos and work.
thanks for making this video. I recently purchased a saw like this and the written instructions are incomplete. you have been immensely helpful, especially since I am new to this piece of equipment.
Your video was VERY helpful and very well done . I have a ( beloved ) 1940's Wells which works great but better now thanks to your informative and generous video . Thank You . Johnnie C . Nova Scotia
great video and convenient for me i just got me an atlas clausen on cl without a blade, a motor and a belt the other day fortunately yesterday one of my reeve pulleys on my delta drill press exploded and now i got the motor for the saw - i have no idea what im going to do with the drill press for now because i have 4 different projects goin on simultaneously right now before i undergo surgery and the clock is ticking the belt i will probably get it from the autoparts store and the blade from sears i know how to cut with these babies but i dont know much about its technicalities now with your instructional video finally i got an answer there are probably thousands of videos or websites that talk about this topic - who knows, but your instruction and advice goes right to what is expected overall after watching how careful you was on the demonstration and your proficiency on the adjustment made to that horizontal saw blade now i will be able to work on mine i just paid $75 for my saw, and a guy who collects them offer me $800 the day after i got it - he probably thaught im stupid or something lol 😄 he told me i could get me one from hb with that money and have some extra cash to spend on other gadgets as well, yeah right; i thaught about it for a while because of the missing parts it needs and its resulting service - i was about to give up but i really want my baby! it was very pleasant to watch you doing this service to that saw and now i feel confident after watching it thanks for your time and expertise 😀
I have Enco's bigger cousin of that saw (12" wide capacity). Melts through anything I put in it. You sound like a young guy, was nice to see you are older (like me :)) Nice trick with the scale, though some might consider it heresy
How about tension on the blade from the big drive wheels? I have an issue where my blade will get caught up on the material while the drive wheels keep spinning and i keep cranking on the knob to tighten the blade with no luck.
Great video, I have a Dayton bandsaw that looks very similar to your's, but it looks like I may be able to do the same adjustments. thanks for the video!
thank you! I am actually going through a Carolina Industrial HD10 I purchased recently. the bearings are totally shot, everything else but the downfeed is in decent shape. some new berings and rebuilding the downfeed and your insight to what I already assumed will have my saw cutting straight!
I have a small metal bandsaw, 'METALLKRAFT MBS 105' and the band jumps off at the drive wheel side. I have to adjust wheel tracking and blade guidance (at the roller bearings). Questions: What to do first: First wheel tracking and then blade guidance - or - first blade guidance and then wheel tracking? please help. thx!
hi there, nice video i have a question, when you were tracking the blade so it would run true by inclining the idler wheel with the jacking screws, what is the position of the drive wheel in relation to this? does it stay parallel in relation to the saw body or does it need inclined as well? i was given a startrite bandsaw that required the gearbox rebuilt, there is jacking screws on it also although the manual only seems to mention the idler for adjustment, any thoughts greatly appreciated!
With the guide bearing adjustment my manual says the inside bearings are non adjustable as you just said but my one has all four bearings adjustable which makes it bloody hard to set up. I bought a new £22 ($30) bi-metal blade last week and promptly fucked it up because I couldn't get the adjustment right. I've just made two new unadjustable bearing spigots to the same dimensions as the originals but the bearing pivot is concentric with the 10 mm threaded mounting. As for the adjustment it says in the manual that a 0.025" thick blade should have one thou clearance so it should be in theory just a matter of putting a 0.026" feeler gauge between the bearing surfaces. But when you have all four of the bearings adjustable then it's a nightmare to get right. Well I've put the old blade back in with the new pivots and it runs ok so I'll order a new blade this week and try it out!
Your saw looks identical to a Dayton 3z360C. Anyone have amanual for the Dayton 3Z360C? Great video! I learned alot. Thanks so much!! Where is or was MSC located?
G'day thank you very much for making this video it has helped me a great deal. My bandsaw is new but out of adjustment and the manual that came with it really lakes what you have covered. Thank you once again great help John Tasmania Australia PS have subscribed
805ROADKING G'day used your adjusting methods and it is now fairly accurate thank you once again you stop what was becoming a very frustrating job. Kind regards John
Hi. I bought new one and can't adjust blade in back wheel (motor shaft wheel). Everything align in front/top wheel, just facing edge, very nice. But back wheel seems to pull off the blade and only half size is touching wheel. Any idea how to adjust?
I have an old 4x6 bandsaw from Harbor Freight with a manufacturing date of 1993 on it. It looks like a genuine Rong Fu built one to me. It also says it is made in Taiwan. So its the good stuff.
I also have the Taiwan version from the late 1980's (BC) "Before China" fit and finish is way nicer than the current H/F China version. Any idea what bearing size(s) are used for the guides?
Hey, are you still using this bandsaw? I'm considering buying one similar, but am wary about some things I'm seeing about them. How many blades do you go through? Do you get good square cuts consistently?
Excellent video. I just bought one of these made by "Buffalo Tools" looks to be very similar. Its getting an overhaul. This video is a great source of info for my project. Thanks -Will
I have one like this. I use be metal blade. I use the middle speed but aboit the pressure i am always scare to put tu much pressure when cutting.... i usuly cut 1/8 flat bar and tubing ...